Lou Earle

I believe there are instructions in the manual for rebuilding the master cyl on the car - I know there are such instructions for re doing the 48 without taking the cyl off Lou

"If your absolutely sure it is a fuel problem check your ignition!!!" Rarely does a fuel problem on starting occur after u have gotten it running well. Pull that dist and I bet you will find points worn ,little burr, or closed to about 17 or less. Lou Anyone want my method of setting points with a test light to be sure of dead on timing? never fails Lou

The best deal in usa is goerge asche - get the trans and wiring etc - for around a grand- believe me it is the best deal in town. I have 2 used overdrives and there is no way I will rebuild them - it is a chinese jigsaw puzzle in there. Georges trans missions are great Lou Asche, George Jr Fertigs Rd VENUS, PA 16364 814-354-2621 Give him a call he will talk yoru ear off!!!!!

That firs 90 percent of the filters

My experience- I was like you going to change it all at one time. But I changed to an overdrive in my 48 and found no need to change the rear end. Mine and yours I believe is a 3.9 rear the overdrive will give you about a 2.57 final drive in overdrive. I am quite pleased with that I can drive all day a 65 70 and no real strain on engine. I actuality I mostly drive 55-60 and get around 20-22 mpg and it is great. I believe to go lower you will need to beef up the engine -a lot Ritchie and bobby your thoughts? I would buy another George Escher overdrive - in fact I am buying 2 more fro my 50 Pym and my 488 taxi. Best money I ever spent on my cars as far as upgrades go. Lou

Georgia did not a a certif. of title law until the 60's about 61 i think. No car in GA had a title prior to this time only a certif of orgin was needed from the dealer to get the first registration and tag. Therefore Georgia does not issue any title to any car before the 60's because they never did . Lou

whend was thepenalty increased? wern't mine but would lie to have it lou

Sure look s like that- has a different rear end so might be Lou

I have installed 2 on a model fords and they are not, in my opinion all that great. I notice absolutely on improvement and one crapped out. I you have a short with the key on - your out of commission. Look at tit this way - points and condenser- what 12-15 bucks- last about `10,000 miles ( and if your real chap you can re-file - but file cost 5 bucks!!) condenser - God only know how long they last-originals- [probably around 50,000. And they can be changed by anyone - even me - with tools from tool box- 7/16 wrench screwdriver and pliers is about 30 minutes- oh yes need a thickness Gage-= a scrap of cereal box( Raisan Bran is the best- because that is all I have) top does just fine. No on all my cars I will stay with the points. Most of my A model friends have abandoned the Pertronix- A bit of history One man invented the system for A models and 10 years ago they were great- but bought out by big company and quality went to hell.' Lou

with either of these Hubcaps Where is james DEan when you need him- Probably hunting 5 foot lake pipes or stealing Drive in speakers to make a stero system in his mercury Tim likes those cool rims- That is bacause he is not old enough to know REAl hot rod stuff when he sees it- To young needs a lot more birthdays. Lou ps that car on e bay really looks good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/40-Plymouth-Street-Rod_W0QQitemZ280054364155QQihZ018QQcategoryZ6387QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Is there any difference between them in th 15 inchmodels? One wider? Lou

To get 8 to 1 compression how much to shave off head? Lou

" In 1956 Plymouth offered a 2 barrel carburetor option which gave about 8 more HP over the standard single throat. A less restricted exhaust would have probably yielded a similar amount. " Per Greg in earlier posts on split manifolds. Now that I have run the daylights out of the engine in my 48 4 door taxi ( I have been flagged down a lot in Dublin Ga people wanting actual rides!) guess what. After sustained driving at over 55 mph of about 8 or 9 hours now ( speedo broken you know) it Idles and runs great burns a quart about every 300 at over 60- just like they did when new. So- here is the deal I want to budget hot rod it! I have the following: 2 Barrel intake off of something Asche split exhaust Unmilled head- It is unmilled isn't it Tim? Anyone got any Ideas what carb the 56 used? or any suggestions for a replacement- Webber?? All suggestions welcome PS Also are these mods possible in the car? I am wondering how in the hell to get to those manifold bolts. Lou Lou

n/m

Earlier is was said: "The bypass relief spring controls the pressure, not the oil filter... and allows a portion of the oil to be diverted to the oil filter. After it passes through the filter, it is returned to the oil galley in the block. The biggest difference is the filter itself. Bypass filters will filter smaller particulates than fill flow filters." I have always heard this and I know some big expensive engines have 2 filter systems- by pass and full flow. Are the #1080 filters sold by napa designed to catch smaller particles? Or does the rate of flow determine? Are the filtration specs for the 1080 filter different than the specs on a say A1A used on a Ford? This controversy also rages on the A model site-= Some say the full flow does not help an A model others claim it is a Godsend. Any one know for certain if the by pass oil filter actually filters finer? And if so how or what causes it to do that? I am just curious. Lou

Has 6 volt 60 amp pos ground alternators for $145 I am sur eother Ford suppliers have them cheaper. I am using 2 of them k- one in an A and one ion a 48 plym Both work just fine. BE SURE AND GET ONE THAT IS 6V POS GROUND. http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/merchant.mv?

I put a trickle 2 mp fully automatic battery charger on my 47 battery(Tim-solved the missing battery plugs- found an old battery - outside the parts store very early this am). and it registered fully charged. I was suspicious- so I put the regular 6 volt 6 amp charger and it said 50 o/o charged. And this is the same thing I encountered on my 4 door 48 cab with different chargers. My voltage regulators check out fine. What do you all think. Believe I just do not run them long enough to fully charge the batteries. But that does not explain why the trickle chargers bot said fully charged. I have found that a weak battery - OK to start engine but not peppy will show fully charged all the time on 2 amp but not so on 6 amp. Also I find it take s about overnight to get it fully charged. I can now listen to fan and tell you how it is charged. And I have found fully charged is a huge help in firing on first crank. Lou

Nice car! I would say the interior is close to orginal fabric but newly installed. I believe you got a good interior that has been redone close to orginal. Looks to me like you got a very good daily driver and have alot ,if not all, the hard and expensive interior work done. There is a wealth of info and experience here on this site - USE IT! Most of us or at least one of us will be able to help U. Many of us have "Been there done or fixed that" and can help u. These pics are of my 46 coupe that had orginal material replaced with "orginal type material"

I was cleaning my shop -Hercules had an easier job with the Aegean Stables- Of course Tim will have a harder one than mine !!! However I found a speaker- original I had removed from My 47 plym. Someone had said they wanted it but I have forgotten who!!! Someone let me know-it dies need re working-cone is torn Lou

First and foremost GET A MANUAL!!! Find a local shop that rebuilds brake shoes- agood place to start is calling the local school bus shop- they will know where such a shops in your area. Take all the shoes and one if not all the drums to them- they can fit a new set of of linings on the shoes-if needed. A lot of so called brake problems end up being bad adjustment. But before you do that test the system Does th car run or roll without sticking brake after brakes are pushed in hard? if so wheel cyls are not stuck. press pedal hard - does it stop them go down slow? if so a wheel cyl or master is leaking if stays at one level and brakes are stopping car you probably just need shoes re lined. Remove the drums and look for any wet spot BEFORE you touch anything. you can then determine which wheel cyl is leaking and rebuild it. if you do not have one get a spring remover and a brake cylinder boring tool attachés to drill and very simple to use. Also get some crocus paper of 400 grit sandpaper. Then go to work. I have only had one wheel cyl need replacing in about 20 cars I have worked on. All the rest wee either rebuilt of not touched. All can be re bored/resurfaced with the drill boring tool. on the car- just clean and bore or rub with 400 grit paper. I have never had springs that are bad some might but I have never found one bad tension wise- broken yes but not tension wise. then begin your rebuild. Your only problem will be setting the shoes to the drum when re assembled- you need the tool - make one or borrow one. There are several out there- I have one I might loan out and I am sure there are others that have it. I have assumed you r interested in doing your own work I could be wrong in that. If you cannot do the work check around and find someone near u that does work on older cars. I never use a shop unless I really know the person. Just my view. Oh yes all rebuild parts can be obtained at napa car quest etc. Wheel cyl rebuild about 7 per cyl-$50 total. Shoes re lined-$80 for the all. And no shipping! Good luck and keep us posted Lou

The wipers on my taxi were barely moving- and a new hose did not help BUT I was taking a 60 mile trip and the blades were off SooOO I just turned them on and they were barely moving at first but 45 miles later they were really running. I would suggest to anyone that they remove the blades and run that sucker for a while. I am betting a lot o of the wiper problems are like the supposed motor problems- tat long periods of non use has affected them. I had squirted some light oil into the motor thru the vacuum tube fitting a few day before when I put the new hose on - Might a combo of both Lou

Well, I have been running her - the 48 taxi a good bit and that set up works fine . the store bought gage registers 180 and so does a thermometer in the top of the radiator. So i would suggest that anyone who installs a heater could use this method and get heat and not break a knuckle trying to get that pesky plug out-I would prefer to have the plug out but-well it was just to hard. Lou [/img]

If your positive ground make sure your coil is wired correctly- neg side to the ignition and pos to dist. If neg ground then pos to ignition and neg to dist. are u 6 volt? or 12? if 12 be sure yoru coil - if a 6 volt has a reducer in between ignition and coil

I have several A models and one 48 Ford with a 53 mercury flathead .If the timing is any off they will overheat bad! I never knew why Fords did that and others did not . Thanks Tod. I posted my s"cientific findings " because soem in earlier postings thoughtthe water flowed from the water pump to the heater and then into the head. Rather than fron head to heater then to water pump Lou

Well the temp of the hose from the rear of the head to the heater is Hotter than the one leading from the heater to the water pump. Not a lot hotter but noticeably hotter. The lazar temp Gage is busted so could not do it.BUT take a look at the back of the water pump. Seems like the water pump pushes water down the distribution tube to the back where the original heater connection heater is located on the passenger side rear of the head . So that would indicate that the water at the rear of the head is the hot after going thru the dist tube. and be warm as it passes by the temp Gage. So I believe the water enters from the rear of the head to the heater and returns to the water pump. Also take a look at the rear of the water pump- the main outlet to the engine is thru the dist tube to the engine- makes sense- send the coolest water down the area with the most heat so the water can absorb it. That explains to me why the cut off is at the rear - it cuts off the hot water going into the heater. Maybe not all that important but I am glad to now know how the water circulates.