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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. I am still betting on the driver's side rear of the head being clogged up. You might want to try an remove the heater inlet on the head on the other side and stick a wire down the hole to the other r side and see what u got before removing the plug. I have had 2 I swore wee clean badly clogged right there Lou
  2. Before you go that route- check with napa- they soemtinme s have them- also be SURE and get a firm price onthe shipping- I got clobbered by them on that!!
  3. First question should I remove the remains of the felt that is attached to the lip of the door (where your arm rests) on the outside. NOT A GOOD IDEA THESE ARE HARD TO FIND how is this attached?USUALLY STAPLES can I purchase a new one? i HAVE NEVER FOUND ANY - HAVE MAD MUSTANG ONES WORK POORLY Where is the best place to get replace the vent window rubber. Mine is brittle and does not seal well when the window is closed. vent window rubber- Steele is best Andy's is weak I harve bought both and Steele is expensive but the best Lou
  4. Third where should I get replacement clips for the two rusted ones? Which ones - I have several clips and some on 53 that will work are they the belt moulding clips- ? Fifth I have found that i have a defective rear door lock. does anyone know where to get a single driver side rear lock? You can have one off my doner car if you come get it Lou
  5. On mlk drive in downtown macon- ga tool across street from radiator shop - ask counterman - they have them in the dorman parts drawers in the side room I just got soem there
  6. What I would do ,and have done to get one started. Each has his own method ,but I like this one: get something to shoot oil into the cylinder chamber- I use a big hypodermic needle attached to a plastic disposable big syringe- and bend the needle in a curve so I can get it to the cylinder area. The I put in marvel mystery oil about a table spoon full in each cylinder and loosely screw the plugs back in and leave it about 8 to 12 hours. meanwhile I change the oil to the cheapest oil I have around. Now attach a battery remove the plugs and try and crank it- using 6 volt battery. If it turns over crank it about 5 or 10 seconds and let it rest. Then crank it while watching the oil pressure gage- when it stats moving you now have the bearings lubricated . Now remove the distributor noting after u take the cap off noting ON A PIECE OF PAPER the position of the rotor button IE-10 12 or 2 O'Clock for instance. Install new points and condenser- Napa always has them - set gap at 20 thous. re install the distributor wit rotor pointing at same place as removed. Install new plugs gapped at 35 use auto lite R's. Pour some ()no more than 2- 3 oz.-gas in the carb and let it sit a minute. now try and crank her up. If it fires and runs a bit u are getting close to a running engine. Now remover old gas and put 3-5 gallons new gas in tank. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and also disable the distributor by removing the wire going to the distributor from your power - IE the side NOT going to the distributor- now crank her some and see if you have gas finally coming out of the fuel line - if so hook her up and give it a try - you will probably be very surprised It will run you might need to choke it a bit but it will run. Please get a service manual - the best money you Will ever spend on any car u are going to work on Best of luck . Lou PS At a model a meet a few years ago we followed this procedure in starting a model A Ford that t had been sitting 20 + years. It had bee shot with oil the night before - took us between 30 and 45 minutes to have the engine running good.
  7. I reading your attempts at fixing the heating problem it appears that this is an ongoing problem- it happens every year correct? Check your fan belt for tightness-slipping can cause this. I had a 34 engine doing the same thing and as soon as I mentioned the symptoms an old hand a flathead plyms told me to remove the freeze plug in the HEAD- I did not even recall one there -it there drivers side rear. He said that turn there grabs sludge and holds it -I did and got about 1/3 cup of hard crud out with water, air hose coat hanger anything that got in there. That solved the problem. As for cleaning radiator I use - on recommendation of counter man at parts store- automatic dish washing detergent- electrala sol calgonite etc- it has a de greaser and is non foaming- I put in about a cup and just run it for a some tine just driving or at fast idle in driveway and drain. Also to check the impeller loosen the fan belt and try and turn the fan hard- . Also depending in the type impeller a blade can be busted off-on the 3 to 6 blade type I think the 2 big blades are better myself. Hope this helps Lou
  8. The green 47 I got from Bobbie Hodge- this is a first for me- I installed a new sending unit on the gas tank and presto gas gage works. Now ALL Original gages work- Just curious How many of us have cars that all gages worked when we got them? Lou
  9. Why do Brits drink warm beer???? Lucas makes there refrigerators!!!
  10. suggestion- drain present oil and stick your pinkie finger in the drain hole and see if you can feel any sludge- I bet it is there. Get some gaskets and remove the oil pan and clean it out. Not a bad job at all. Just remember to dab some sealant around the rear tips of gasket when u re install pan. Now go with whatever oil you like and a new filter. All the suggestions are good my personal opinion is the best oil is the cheapest that still meets the severe usage standard. The oils today are so superior to yesterdays I believe all are more - say more than adequate. Also you might want to check and drain your fluid coupler- and re fill with napa hydraulic tractor fluid- the best substitute. that is a tediousbut not hard job. And last but not least there is only one color for these speedsters- Red!!! Before [/img] After [/img]
  11. Bob Tim Adams and I concluded - just like u that the jcw one u posted would work with mods- is you can pleas e mail me the info- my email is in-my profile thanks Lou PS jcw also a a generic door seal for about a $1.15 a foot vs 3 bucks plus for steele rubber- it works just fine I just ordered another 75 feet of it to do some doors on my black and silver 48 4 door Lou
  12. Considering trading in my old 6 ply truck ties on my green 47 for some radials- I have 16 inch rims Anyone with radials on 16 inch rims please let me know what size u are running and how u like them and or which size u think works best in the 16 thanks Lou
  13. Traced the problem of gas gage to the sending unit- anyone know where I can get one or a replacement 50 Plymouth single wire? Why named my 50 Fastback Fireball 1- 1-The paint is Nason Fireball red- 2The car is now Fireball red 3-In 1950 The year of the First Southern 500 at Darlington speedway was run (expected a crowd of 5,000 fans-25,000 showed up-) and won by Johnny Mantz in Guess what- A 1950 Plymouth fastback!! He won because he ran truck tires and had very few blowouts on the track. The Lincoln in the race has 21 blowouts in 2200 miles and dropped out. The original car is on display at Darlington speedway. The above information from article by Smokey Yunick in Hot Rod September 90 issue [/img]
  14. Well here it is just missing plym logo on back- it will turn up when I clean shop- Amazing how chrome and s steel perks one up- The buffing out at Tims really helped and Sal's delicious country dinner of corned beef cabbage tomatoes fresh bread beans etc was great but ruined my waistline again!!! [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img]
  15. Engine is mystery engine- the numbers are filed off!! suspect a Dodge based on power. Has Dual exh. standared carb. Shaved head not sure it runs great - I am sure no cam nic esmooth engine- and I think after a bit of rest I will be putting a 5 speed in it
  16. The Paint is nason Ful-Thane Urethane 2k (Dupont brand) 400-07 Fireball Red one gallon $170.. plus thinner/reducer etc. Then about 1 1/2 gallons fo clear over it- really came out very nice - a little orange peel that buffing will correct LOu
  17. Well she is back- this car I had several years and went to move it and brakes failed - smashed up the front and rear- finally found a front clip from 49 and put it on- worked out and filled the back dents- painted it a flame red from a fleet color car quest had here - it really came out very pretty. Now to put it back together. [/img] [/img] Lou
  18. Nothing except that you are goig to either get th e glove or your hand very splattered with paint Lou
  19. Been searching the web - must be a bad day-I need to find place that sell plain old chrome rims and baby moon caps- any suggestions- going on my 48 nova clipped Chevy 350 with 700R4 overdrive thanks Lou PS looks like my gas mileage on this pup is between 20 and 24 at 60-75 Lou
  20. well the top is hard!!! My 34 has a soft top in the center and hadrd around edges-what it is??
  21. Could very easily be a piece of rag that was stuffed in the oil fill tube years ago and disintegrated except for that piece? Seems to me like the only place it could enter. I found a screwdriver in one of my engines!!! Lou
  22. On my f-150 I bought in 2003 it had a big warning in steering wheel and in the owners manual- uste 5 w 20 for first 36000 or so mile otherwise warranty was void- so I guess tolerances are very close now
  23. Well, maybe this time I am finished!! Got a 21/4 hole driller and cut out the metal on the dash and installed the side vents in the dash. Now it looks lie it was either a dealer option or straight ac from factory. Not that hard to do but on driver side i had to cut an massage the duct on the back some. In order to drill and cut the dash on the drivers I used the plug I had cut out from the other side and screwed it to the dash over the starter button hole - that gave me a good center hole for the hole cutter- worked great. Could not get a pic of it but will later and post, Now I like it!! lou Before [/img] After [/img]
  24. Well could not find easy way to install radio- So I put it thru glove box door- the ac unit really wiped out the area anyway and putting it down low under dash just did not suit me .well dash is complete and time to put wire in place -HIDDEN- I rather like the blend of old dash and new vents and radio/disc player-comments?
  25. Got the t-5 conversion kit from Paul Curtis- it is a really fine piece of machine work - fist both the input shaft housing on the S10 and thebellhousing perfectly- . I was wondering about the unsupported tail shaft but 1 Just picking up a t-5 and an overdrive plym trans my guess is the Plymouth weighs about 20 to 25 pound MORE!! 2WHEN LOOKING ABOUT T-5 TRANS i RAN ACROSS THIS STATEMENT FROM A BUILDER AND ARTICLE WRITER ON THE T 5 CONVERSION INTO CHEVY Trucks "I've run the T-5's and Saginaws with no trans mount several thousand miles with no problems, the trucks mount on the bell housing. It did however make me nervous with aluminum case sticking so far out in space so I fabricated a cross member from the original truck's cross member. I cut and welded a recessed pocket in it, also cut and welded in tubes where the bolts pass through the vertical part of the cross. I bolted the mount to the tranny first and then slid the cross under it and bolted it on. Again perhaps not necessary but makes me feel better" Guess it is up to the individual Lou
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