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belvedere666

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belvedere666 last won the day on October 12 2017

belvedere666 had the most liked content!

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About belvedere666

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    fullerton
  • Interests
    Tattooing. Painting. Hanging out with my wife and kids.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Artist. Step dad.
  • Occupation
    Tattoo artist

Converted

  • Location
    Fullerton
  • Interests
    Tattooing

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  1. recently purchased an infrared thermometer to check the running temperature of my 218. i'm getting some VERY different readings throughout the car. Radiator cap gauge is reading 170ish. (aluminum radiator) Temp gauge at the water bypass is reading 170. (aftermarket) Dashboard gauge is just a little over the middle line but not close to "HOT". infrared thermometer is reading between 205-215 at the rear of the block and about 170 in the middle section of the block. (both taken from the top of head) as far as i can tell the water is flowing through all the passages. i have a 180 degree thermostat was new and working ( i tested it) before i installed it. Has anyone tested temps in these areas? Do my numbers and the differences from one section to another seem "normal" or "abnormal"?
  2. Relocated spring pockets and Moog Aerostar springs. i think it gave me about a 2” drop.
  3. This is the second comment in a row, that mentions that I just need to use a 12 V to 6V reducer. The post mentions that I have a 12V to 6V reducer. That is the reason why I posted. I am using the reducer, and it isn’t working.
  4. In the original post I said that I have a 12-6 resistor and it’s not powering the motor.
  5. 6 volt motor was connected to a six volt battery and it worked.
  6. My ‘50 has been completely re-wired using an EZ harness. The car is now 12v negative ground. i have the original vacuum wiper motor in the car now. I came across an electric wiper unit from a ‘51. pretty sure it’ll take a little creativity to mount it the car, but wiring it to my 12 volt system has me baffled. i picked up a reducer. One of those gold colored ones with the aluminum heat sink. i was told it would work better than the smaller Runtz reducers. Bench testing straight to my 12v battery, with a wire from the wiper motor grounding strap to the negative post on the battery, I get power and the motor moves. i can hook it to a wiper switch, not stock, and get the same results. once I put the reducer inline either before the switch, or after, and attach the wiper motor wire, the motor grounds out and doesn’t want to move. i can get a reading of 12v off the end of the reducer and as soon as the wiper wire touches it it drops down to under 1v. I don’t know much about auto electrical stuff, but I’m guessing that since the motor was originally positive ground and now it’s being grounded to the negative, when it touches the positive, it’s grounding itself. is there any way to rectify this? reverse the ground inside the motor? The wiper motor has two wires. the wires are old and faded but it looks like the thick one is black and the thin one is green. any advice? troubleshooting recommendations?
  7. I forgot to mention that I needed to use an electronic flasher in place of the original style. There are some out there that will work with LED and incandescent bulbs simultaneously. So you can use incandescent ones in your parking lights and your interior indicator light. Or you can swap all of them out.
  8. I have red LED lights on my 50. They’re bright. They burn cool and have very little power draw. They replace the 1157 bulb with the dual filament. My car is 12 volt though
  9. Planning on replacing all upper and lower body mounts on my p20. can anyone walk me through the process for the upper mounts? do I need to remove them all and lift the entire body off or can I do them in sections? whAt are some things to look out for? will the body warp if I hade them all off at the same time?
  10. The master cylinder they sent you is a late 60s early 70s mustang master cylinder. It has two reservoirs. One for the drum brakes in the rear and one for the disk in the front. the steel plate you have there should mount into the holes where your original master cylinder mounts and the new master cylinder will mount to the plate. now that I look at it, they MAY have sent you the wrong adapter plate. Mark at ECI has been very accommodating and willing to work with me when I had a question or an issue. i was missing a few pieces and he sent them out right away. mine looks like this picture here. the three holes in the bracket fit into the three holes that hold the original master. This is kind of what the whole set up should look like
  11. I don’t have any pictures, but where are you getting stuck? what year is your car?
  12. Ok. So I’m out here today. What i discovered is that i have only two wires that say parking lights. (EZ labels the wires) one says front left. other says rear left. i had them plugged into the two plugs that appear to be linked next to the “p”. The upper left and middle. I separated them and put the left rear into the top “T” plug and the left front into the top “p” plug. all parking lights and tail lights work. the confusion was in the labeling. i was looking for a plug for all 4 lights. i didn’t know that the “left” wire would power the right. got it figured out. Thanks for the help!
  13. That’s a lot to take in... I’ll get out to the car again tomorrow morning to check all that out. My manual isn’t the 46-54, it’s a 49-52. so, with my EZ harness, I don’t need to run through the curcuit breaker to powe the radio because fuse box has a dedicated circuit. so I add power to the top plug. Dash light to the “I”. tail light to the “t” headlight to the “h”through the dimmer switch. parking light to the “p”. and leave the screw/nut unused?
  14. I have a manual and I mention in the post that it isn’t very clear because im adapting the harness to the switch.
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