Jump to content

oldasdirt

Members
  • Content count

    120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

3 Followers

About oldasdirt

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/13/1938

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    According to my wife, from Mars
  • Interests
    Old Plymouths, Chrysler and Mopars
  • My Project Cars
    Well I have more projects than days left to finish them!

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    those who know me call me Danny, or Grumpy !
  • Occupation
    long since retired, now try to keep out of my wifes gun sights

Converted

  • Location
    usa
  • Interests
    old mopars without chevy or ford parts!

Recent Profile Visitors

579 profile views
  1. Hi Adam - I think you really should read the AoK article. 3 carbs are definitely the way to go. If you want to dial it back with smaller jets or smaller throttle bores both net out less CFM sure then to your point the overall less total cfm has merit. In terms of how the flathead mopar engines work, with 3 siamese intake ports, as the AoK boys explain it 3 carbs are definitely the way to go. Overall better performance, better engine efficiency and potentially better fuel economy.
  2. I alway laugh when I read guys saying 3 are too much and you want progressive.. Based on what testing ? Eddy Edmunds made a triple in 1954 a couple of years after Chrysler offered factory dual carbs and headers on Trucks. The total CFM of those dual carb carter ball and balls exceed 3 of the 2 barrel carbs that Tom Langdon sells. The difference being they are purpose built for flatheads unlike the carter webers. A few things you likely should read 1) The AoK blog on this topic.. 2) Like others said - contact Tim Kingsbury and/or George Asche. The make in my opinion and many others the best in class dual and triple carb setups now. I run the triple on my big block 265 and a small block dual carb set up on a 230. There is nothing even close and over the years Ive tried many. 3) If you go through the AoK blog you will see Tim did a series of articles complete with pictures of various intakes over the years. Worth a read. I do applaud you for your effort. As a piece of art its awesome. As a performance intake based on what I do know I doubt it performs as good as it looks. The bowed runners I believe were a pre-war concept for a factory single carb setup. and the bases look too low but only testing would be able to confirm that. In reading the AoK blog regularly it seems they may have had issues with having theirs cast. Maybe an opportunity to join forces ??? George is now 85 I think and Tim's Dad which was a lot of his driving force passed away about a decade ago so I dont think they are planning on bulding any new designs. I asked George about an aluminum triple for a small block and he said it wasnt in the cards. Best of luck and keep working on flathead stuff.. love it!
  3. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Yes I am very aware this is a truck forum. I clearly missed your thread with the "conversion in a couple of hours". Well Don, Im not taking the bait. Installed your t5 18 years ago. Really.. I guess it took 4 years from install until you drove it. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/makes-all-the-work-worthwhile.16533/ Don said - "I am just looking for details on how to do an A833 upgrade with documented photos. I may want to do such an upgrade myself " .. Seriously Don no one believes that. Just so your aware Tom Langdon was touting the conversion well before 2000, well before any mention of you doing it or yes people stealing your ideas. Clearly I just helped enable you to dive into this thread for your 21,518th post. Sorry about that folks. I will not be making that error again. Bye Don time to join the many and hit "block"
  4. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    You really have two A833 4 speeds. 1 is cast iron and was the same tranny put in Hemis as it was a 318. The next generation is lighter aluminum case and it has overdrive in it. The cast iron ones are high demand and expensive and I have lots of experience with them. The aluminum ones are not as expensive although like so much of the 70s stuff that would have had these transmissions, they were crushed. That is the challenge and the issue.
  5. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Sorry I had to chuckle.. This from the guy who made his on intake and exhaust setup out of tube and stuff? I doubt it was a matter of what your time was worth and likely isnt for 55 Fargo Spitfire. Putting in an A833 OD or non-overdrive is exactly the same effort. It really was not a big deal vs putting in a T5 which was a big deal it really was. Getting a kit from Langdon for the T5 was a bunch easier than some of the step by step instructions I have seen on this site but it was still a lot of work and the shifter was too far back etc. The splits on the A833 are just fine but of course depends on what rear end ratio you have. The 1st one I did was now 15 years ago. Since I have or had a shop I own do more than a dozen of them. They have been behind 217s, 230s, 201s, 250 and 265 engines. For those who really are using a pickup as a car and maybe with the odd load of stuff its perfect. For those with older cars that had floor shift 3 speeds and are looking for an overdrive but are unable to find a decent r6 overdrive its a blessing.
  6. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    That is the Plymouth 1941 -1954 3 speed transmission. 1st....2.57 2nd...1.83 3rd...1.0 reverse 3.48 Sorry if I didnt make that clear enough.. my bad
  7. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Yah I really am not going to turn this into a t5 thread but I 100% do not agree with you and I have had many done in a shop I own. Both t5 conversions and A833 conversions. But as this was 55 Fargo Spitfire's thread - A 833 Trans Transplant Thread let just leave it as agree to disagree
  8. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Honestly comparing this to a fluid drive is like comparing apples to bananas it really is. The fast 2nd your referring to is a 1940 tranny were 2nd is 1.55 instead of 1:83. But think you and many miss, 1st the t5 trannys come in something around 100 versions. I did a quick check in my AAMCO reference guide. Would you be surprised to know there are actually 21 different t5s for the Mustangs and I just did a quick look at Camaros and there seemed to be as many or more. 1352-246 Ford 1994 Mustang 5.0 V8 WC Y 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.75 1352-238 Ford Mustang 3.8 V6 WC V 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.72 1352-208 Ford 1992 5.0L Mustang WC 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.68 1352-209 Ford 1992 2.3L Mustang WC X 3.97 2.34 1.48 1.00 0.79 1352-015 GM 1983 Camaro/Firebird 2.8 V6 E 3.50 2.14 1.39 1.00 0.86 1352-054 GM 1984 Camaro/Firebird 2.5 L4 K 3.76 2.18 1.42 1.00 0.72 1352-061 GM 1984 Camaro/Firebird 2.8 V6 E 3.50 2.14 1.39 1.00 0.78 1352-071 GM 1985 Camaro/Firebird 2.8 V6 P 4.03 2.27 1.49 1.00 0.76 1352-245 GM 1994 Camaro/Firebird V6 WC Z 3.75 2.19 1.41 1.00 0.72 1352-246 Ford 1994 Mustang 5.0 V8 WC Y 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.68 1352-247 GM 1996 Camaro/Firebird V6 WC Z 3.75 2.19 1.41 1.00 0.72 Lots of these configurations seem to be quite the jump from 1 to 2. As well the more robust t5s that were into the Camaro and Mustang are far from inexpensive. Not to get into there is way more work than the A833 based on the documentation I have seen from guys like Don C. No more than for Mustang (see above) and unfortunately there are t5 splits that are absolutely terrible. The another ratio inbetween your referencing is often to compensate for lower hp and torque engines. I realize there are lots of higher hp engines running t5 transmissions but even some of those, you may be very surprised to actually look at the specific splits. Yes you can start spending money and changing the gears in the t5. On the A833 there is no issue running behind a flathead mopar. I have run an a833 behind a flathead for several years. On the stock Mopar 3 speed as a reference, the splits are 1st....2.57. 2nd...1.83, 3rd...1.0
  9. oldasdirt

    A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    You use the original pilot bushing and the original throw out bearing. Its only the need to change the clutch to have the fine spline. The A833 is no more or no less complicated than your t5 transmission to rebuild. All of the A833's have a standard gear ratio where your t5 can have over 100 combinations. Its actually amazing how easy the A833 conversion is beyond the loss of the hand brake.
  10. I agree with the others. Tim Kingsbury has a blog on the site. Its definitely not V8 or Ford or Chevy focused Im a big fan of the split exhaust like AndyDodge has verses the Fentons. Just as good with better outlet locations. If you can find the 1937-1938 r6 overdrive that is a big help to make it highway ready. Tim has a great blog entry on identifying period overdrives. As long as your bottom end (bearings) are in good shape you can easily shave your head to give you all the compression you will need. Thats definitely a period performance trick. Split the exhaust, get an Edmunds or AoK dual intake and without getting too deep into the engine you will wake the old girl up and be in keeping with the original owners wishes. While I am not traditionally a bumper sticker guy it was with great pride that I applied this beauty I got from George Asche and Tim Kingsbury when I visited to pick up my intake, carb and linkage setup.
  11. oldasdirt

    Cheap split headers for 218/230

    I got my setup from George Asche. This is the set that he made for me 20 years ago and they are still on the car running strong. They were way more inexpensive than Fenton, less expensive than Reds or Moose`s and without question would last longer. My original exhaust manifold hooked right up again which left me with just needing to run the one exhaust pipe. There was also no issue running too close to the oil pump or fuel pump that some have reported. Ive since had him make me another set to go with my AoK dual carb intake on a 230 and a big block set to go on a 265 ci motor.
  12. oldasdirt

    Cheap split headers for 218/230

    That actually doesnt work properly. You need to move it slightly forward and then internally weld it shut so you have a front 3 coming out one collected and the back 3 coming out another collector. You also need to be cautious of coming down on the oil pump.
  13. oldasdirt

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    I think Adam what Don pointed out was trying to turn an updraft into a down draft carb setup with what he had available was unsuccessful and to me not surprising. Given where he claims he was and what he had available I understand what he did. Had he the ability to insulate things around the thin steel he would have been more successful. At trip to the Walter Chrysler Museum and looking at the tank engine configuration you would see such insulation wrapping. In any case, I think as was pointed out earlier your water coolant is only at operating temperature when it is hot. Its not helping in extreme cold until it gets to that point and is counter productive until that point. Now if your not driving in real winter conditions then its a non factor. In terms of insulating you may wish to do a little more research as its clear I haven't gotten across the points. Having said that sometimes people just need to learn the hard way. I do wish you the best of luck, I really do.
  14. oldasdirt

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    No ethanol does not help carbs from freezing but screws up everything, In super hot heater can actually help create the icing condition. Pull down your carb after running 10% ethanol for a summer and have a look at things. Not good at all
  15. oldasdirt

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    Hi Adam - For sure using thin wall steel pipe is a huge difference. The longer the runs in it the bigger the issue. It will not be as big an issue in the cold. The issue comes when it is very hot and you start to create a refrigeration effect. That is where you will need heat. Your reference to modern engines and heating is a completely different kettle of fish. Just as I see DC out with his war story trying to make updraft into down draft. You need to get warmth or really insulate that pipe or again refrigeration. The other thing you can do Adam if you run into issues in the summer is wrapped that intakes with header wrap. It will give it some insulation factor. You can also weld on tabs and then a plate along your headers under your intake. You would actually be far more efficient using the exhaust heat than water. TK is 100% correct in the drawing of heat from the intake post. For cold weather your trying to warm the intake as soon as you can. Water circulating is a terrible idea to do that. Once the engine is hot, then it would help you for the hot weather icing of thin steel intake issue. On Stovebolt Chevy`s lots use water circulating during the summer heat, but on Flathead mopars its never been a factor for anything I have driven. That has to be 30+ flathead mopars over the years.
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use