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Frank's 49

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Frank's 49 last won the day on September 4 2016

Frank's 49 had the most liked content!

About Frank's 49

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/31/1942

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rome GA
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles. Bicycle racing, baseball, woodworking, auto repair, home DIY, walking.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 b1b wood station Wagon built by Campbell - MidState Body Works. <br />
    Purchased new by my Dad, in Ridgefield Park, NJ - Jan 26, 1949.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in NJ, Served in USAF, College FTU (now UCF)
  • Occupation
    retired from AT&T. Outside plant Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Rome, GA
  • Interests
    old cars, motorcycles, and bicycles

Recent Profile Visitors

374 profile views
  1. Chrysler 218 l6

    I'm interested in the name of the company offering a swap kit for the Mustang suspension. Is it a complete front end and a direct swap? Bolt up, or welding required?
  2. Thought I would post a heads up for anyone with a none operational temperature gauge. I just fixed mine using the repair procedure outline by Tod Fitch, on the site ply33.com, which is site based on Early Plymouths. The repair procedure will work for probably most mechanical temperature gauges. On mine the old tube had been twisted off (most likely in a vain attempt to remove it from the head. Before my time.). I purchased a new gauge, for less than $20 at Advance Auto, and used the capillary tube and bulb as outlined it the repair. The only other item needed was a 1 inch piece of 1/8 inch tubing. The whole job took about an hour, and the hardest part was standing on my head to get the gauge out of the dash! If you to fix a gauge, the process is found at the web site under repairs. Probably some other places also, but Tod give a very clear explanation. One other idea which might be interesting was the use of a cooling spray to chill the sensing bulb. Electronics people use that stuff for trouble shooting. It is basically liquid nitrogen in a can.
  3. Seat Belts installed?

    The way I see it is, these truck did not have any belts when they were new. Nor did they have any sort of "crumple zone". When/if you hit something, it was with a solid whack, the truck stopped, and the driver just bounced off the steering wheel. So, if you add any sort of belts, even cheap ones, it is better than nothing. Either that or wear a chest protector, football pads, and helmet? Mike
  4. using modern electronics

    4mula-dlx: The last thing I worry about is being over the speed limit! lol. I looked at the "speedometer gauges", but only found 12 volt, and you are right, they are costly. The old cell phone thing was done to check the speedometer, and was done at basically zero cost. Already had the phone, and the apps were free. And now it also works for a free gps. And HRT is correct, no phone carrier service is required. FYI, you can also use a 'non-service' phone to acess the internet using any wireless internet service (like at many restaurants, etc.
  5. A while, back there was some discussion on adding a gps to the instruments available. I recently tried a different approach, and just used an old cell phone. My son had several old out-dated android cell phone around. The were the so-called 'smart phones', ie they had a digital touch screen. I took one, charge it up, and after turning it on deleted all his personal data. Then I turned on the internet connection, and it connected with the wireless internet in our home. (you could do this anywhere wireless internet is available. McDonalds, Barnes & Noble, etc). Once connected installed GoogleMaps (it may already be there), and then found some speedometer apps. About a dozen were available for a free download. I just picked one and installed it. Now the phone will display the speed of any vehicle it is in, and you can check your existing speedometer and odometer. It also does not care if you change the tire size or the rear end ratio. It can also be used as a GPS. You can even see how fast you can run!
  6. Well scratch that. bids did not come close to what the appraisal was, and not even what I think it is worth. So i guess i keep her and just keep improving as I go along. Besided I have been at this 'rebuilding' for close to 4-1/2 years now, and I now I have her driveable, I think I will enjoy for awhile. Mike I have decided to sell the 49 Woody Dad bought way back in 1949. It is listed in the classified, with a link to BringAtrailer.com (68-Years Owned 1949 Dodge B1B Woodie Wagon) . and if you want to start with a 'pile of parts' you can check the post that the Guild Classic Cars put on the auction. They have a pair of larger wagon/bus versions. On another note: I want to thank everyone on this forum for the knowledge I have gained while working on this vehicle. Much appreciated. Mike (owner of Franks49)
  7. Rear end swaps.

    I can vouch for the fact that some vehicles do not necessarily match "build date" to "title year". My "1949" b1b has serial number 82084794, which indicates a build year of 1948, and build location of Detroit. But since it was just a chassis and cowl, and shipped to New York for installation of the wood station wagon body, by the time Dad got it from the dealership it was January 1949. Hence the Great State of New Jersey issued the Certificat of Ownership showing a year model of 1949. Not much has changed, as you can now order some models of automobiles as 2018 models. Seems like the model year changes earlier each year.
  8. Tach Hook-up

    My guess is, it will work with + or - ground. The question is, what number of cylinders was it set up for? The number of spark impulses per minute will translated to different rpms. Does it have any sort of selector switch on the back (or a model number you can research?
  9. looking for my 1948 B1B

    Just wanted to say, that is a fine looking truck. Will you give us a time frame to consider. When did you do the own it, and when did the owner in Maine sell it? If this is what it looked like when you owned it, it may be completely changed at this date. Who knows? Same color? Still sporting wide whites. etc. I am way down in Georgia, so I doubt it has found it's way this far south. Good luck, I hope you can track it down.
  10. What kind of woodie      do     u have ?

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. wayfarerstranger

      wayfarerstranger

      Is this a running & driving  truck in good condition . if it were mine it would stay original .

    3. Frank's 49

      Frank's 49

      This is the truck my Dad bought new in January 1949.  

      I started to repair/recondition it 4 years ago.  The wood of the roof was all punky and soft, and that is where I started, by removing it.  One thing led to another and pretty soon it was down to the frame.  While I had it stripped, I went ahead and cleaned everything up and painted the frame.  Replaced all the springs hardware, other than the spring leaves them selves.  The shackles were worn down to the size of a pencil, and the bushings were worse!  Wonder it hadn't just fallen on the ground.  And then all the brakes.  New wheel cylinders, flex hoses, shoes, master cylinder, etc.  Dropped the fuel  tank and cleaned it, installed a new fuel pump, then rebuilt the carb.  Got it running.  Then started rebuilding the wood.  Retained what I could, and replaced anything rotten.  Hard to tell how much was from the original factory build, because Dad had replaced some over the years.  This car was used basically daily from 1949 to 1986, and most of the time was not parked under cover, so  some of the wood had problems, especialy at the joints.  

      The motor was replaced back in 1976, but all it need was to have the valves adjusted, and one replaced and it runs fine.  

      Just added new Coker original size tires (600-16).  The heater has been recored, and the generator has been replaced with a 6V alternator (both the generator and regulator were shot, and it was cheaper to replace them than repair, and i thought better). 

      replaced the speedometer cable (the needle still wiggles around some and i don't think it is accurate.). 

      Installed a new sending unit for the gas gauge. Have not run out of gas yet, so I don't know if it is accurate.

      (I also have a small tachometer and a gps  (a very old gps that does not always work). 

      And some other stuff.

      The bad?   It still has some rust, that should be fixed, but I am not a metal worker. Not all of the woodwork is "factory standard".  But my intention was not to do a complete "like new" restoration, but rather to get it driveable and usable.

      I have posted a few pictures on this site, and would put them on a publc site (if I knew how.. lol )  I will investigate that and let you know if I do it.  

      In summary, yes, it is finally a running, driving truck.  On a scale of 1 to 10, I would probably say it was a 7 or 8.  But it is an on-going hobby.  It still needs things like  window  cranks, and interion door handles on the passanger side.  One headlight rim is missing.  And there are no rear seats.  Originally there was seating for 8, three up front, two in the center and three in the rear, plus room for lots of newspapers LOL.  

       

      Guess I need to write a book.   

       

      Mike 

            

       

    4. wayfarerstranger

      wayfarerstranger

      Sounds like u have done a lot already and i loved reading about it .....That has to be a fun truck to drive ...i know i love my 49 Plymouth Woodie Wagon .

  11. Where under hood battery location

    about acid problems. So far I have not had any problems with the acid. I built my own battery box, but if you are really worried about leakage, you might be able to find a leak free plastic battery box designed for marine use. If you find one of the proper size, it just becomes a matter of mounting it to the fire wall. When I am working on the car a lot, it becomes a pain having to get under the floor to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  12. Where under hood battery location

    Mine is a B1B but I think that under hood they are pretty much the same. I relocated my battery to the fire wall on the drivers side. I also rewired the truck, converted to a 1-wire 6V alternator and added a fuse block. Hmmmm, looking at the photos, makes me realize I need to clean up the firewall.
  13. mopar 1951 clock

    If you measure the resistance through the clock, you should be able to just use the same size resistor in line. The clock and the new resistor should then "split" the 12 volts, and each absorb 6 volts.
  14. length of fuel sending unit arm?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/172532179057?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I got the one from vintageamericanpartscompany, which is designed to fit automobiles. The arm was indeed shorter, and the float is a copper float, rather then a cork, but otherwise everything looks the same. It came with new gaskets and a new locking ring. I lengthend the arm with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire (plenty strong enough) and added a ground stud as Merle Coggins did. It fit right in place and and the gauge now reads 1/2 tank, which is about right, I think. Time will tell if it is good at full and empty. Generally pleased with the unit (could have been cheaper, and I think they are missing a bet by not making "truck" units. By the way, they carry all sorts of other vintage stuff, so the site is worth a peek.
  15. length of fuel sending unit arm?

    Well, I might have screwed up, but I ordered one that was $67, including the shipping. We shall see. My Dad just carried some spare gas for years. Except the time he ran out on the paper route at 4 AM and had to walk 2 miles carrying gas in two open-top quart oil cans. He said they got unbelievably heavy!!
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