Dave72dt

Is the shifter on the floor or on the column?

With the glass out of the track you may have enough room to be able to wiggle the regulator down enough to pull the clips holding the glass on. You'll need the regulator out to repair or replace it. That spring gets rusted so it doesn't slide over the other coils as well as the several pivot points. You'll have to pull the handle off to get the regulator out.

If it's a recent issue I'd guess the vent tube has become plugged or pinched. If it's always been that way finding a different angle to hold the nozzle may help. I've had several vehicles that would not accept stuffing the nozzle in full depth and locking the lever down fully and turning the nozzle sideways a bit helped. It may or may not have a vent solenoid that is not working. I have to assume it's a closed system for emission purposes.

You only need about half of those items to actually start it. If you're going to use a remote starter switch, you may as well use a remote ignition switch, a simple on/off toggle will work. Your gen, voltage regulator and trans relay do not need to work or be hooked up and a simple jumper from battery hot to the coil will work for an ign switch. Use an alligator clip at one end or the other to stop the engine.

Just because a battery has recently been replaced doesn't mean it's good or is a fresh battery. It should have a date code on it, either a letter and 2 numbers or 1 or 2 number/ two numbers, not the warranty punchout date. Troubleshooting is done by testing. You can test the battery while the starter is off being refurbished. Your battery status then becomes a fact instead of an "I don't think it's that".

Does the crankshaft have a groove worn in it wear the seal would ride?

It may simply be the battery. Remove the ground cable, charge the battery, let it sit for ten minutes for the voltage to stabilize and take a voltage reading. Leave it sit overnight with the ground cable still off and take another voltage reading. Thar should tell you if you have a battery that won't hold a charge or if you actually have a drain. A 30 minute battery drain should be leaving some electrical component warm to the touch and will have to be located. That's a fire waiting to happen.

No, not all the typos. Capital "maybe", first paragraph, space between "man," and "I", third paragraph and "the" misspelled, last sentence. There may be some grammar errors as well but your message is clear and understandable so don't fret the small stuff too much. I wouldn't have commented at all if it wasn't for your last sentence. Most of us mess up our posts a bit from time to time, me included. No grammar police needed. I found one of my own after I posted this. Oops, found another one, and two more!

I don't even though I could often get some discounts by doing so. I have no desire to get electronic sales flyers, and emails constantly. I did that once with Autozone simply because they had the part available when no one else did and it took over two years before the emails stopped.

I have an O'reilly's and an Advance and 2 hardware stores in one direction, a Napa and a Bumper to Bumper and 2 hardware stores in the opposite direction. I've used them all. I tend to use the Advance more since I used to work at it prior to retiring and it gives me a chance to catch up with old coworkers. I generally try to combine parts runs with household needs and that usually determines which direction I go. If just parts and needed immediately a phone call ahead to find out if it's in stock. I just recently needed a part that no one had in stock (Factory only) except the dealership, an $850 +tax price. I purchased from Rock Auto w/tax/shipping for $450, factory part, factory boxing. I could afford to wait the 4 days it took to get delivered. I don't use them often, shipping costs become a factor.

You still need to confirm you have found cyl 1 TDC on compression. In a previous post you mentioned moving the plug wires around in the cap. If you don't know where the rotor is when 1 is on TDC compression, you won't know where #1 is supposed to be placed in the cap. You don't KNOW that the oil pump is correctly timed to the engine. You can't assume it is. Does the rotor point either to the 7 o'clock or the 1 o'clock when the timing mark and the pointer line up or does it point somewhere else.?

The other plugs do not have to be in the cylinders but it makes it easier to turn over by hand if they are out. You use 1 and 6 because the pointer and the mark on the pulley will line up when at TDC for those two cylinders. If the tissue or pingpong ball moves from cyl 1 as the engine comes up to TDC, that's the cyl on compression. If the tissue or ball moves on cyl 6, that's the one on compression. You can time it from either cylinder. The rotor should be pointing at the cylinder's wire that's on compression. The timing can be refined from that point

Let's start from scratch, one step at a time. Pull the plugs from 1 and six and place a piece of tissue over each plug hole. Rotate the engine until the marks come up toward the pointer, watching the tissue paper as you do. Which one moves?

You can't assume it's on compresssion because the marker and DC line up. It could have been 180 degrees off. Where was the rotor pointing? That will be either cyl 1 or cyl 6's firing point. High points on the cam are that hexagonal piece inside the distributor. That will open and close the points as it rotates. YOu might want to run a point file through them and reset the gap. What part of the state are you in? If in the NE section, I may be close enough to help.

The sweet spot where the ornament sits now may change once all the front sheet is aligned. Drilling those holes now is fine as long as that spot doesn't change. If it does change, even as little as 1/4 ", someone gets to weld those holes up, body work and paint and drill in the new location.

RockAuto lists the inner tie rod end as #ES158R,, the outer as ES158L. Oreilly shows that part available, maybe next day. I assume the other parts stores will as well.

I'm not sure what part you're referring to. I've heard upper and lower ball joints. Other steering components have ball style joints, possibly inner bushings? A pic would be helpful.

The machine and welding shop would probably cut your pieces to length for you if you had a cut list prepared. You'll pay for their time but all the pieces will have straight, clean cuts, match in lengths which is a plus when working with thicker materials. My cab floor is dead flat. I built my own seat risers for buckets from 1" square tubing and 1/4" flat. I couldn't get them to fit well in the factory bench riser without hacking it up. They bolt to 1 x 2 rectangular tubing floor supports that will also anchor seat belts. That also let Ye adjust the mount angle for the most comfortable position for me.

Supported in the center you should be able to rotate it a bit, one side up, one side down to even up the gap above the tires. Hood fitment may change as a result. These old cars and trucks never had the fitment gaps we're accustomed to on the modern cars so some compromise in gaps may be necessary. You can spend HOURS gapping cars and never get them perfect.

Compare the gap at the top and the bottom. If they're the same, the fender needs to go back. Lock that gap down first. The front can still be moved around a bit. If it's wider at the top than the bottom, the fender can come up in the front. How's the rad support fastened? Can it be shimmed, slotted holes? Since it's been stubbed you may have to modify what your fabricator did to mount sheet metal.

How are the fender and hood gaps? How is the radiator support? Adjusting the radiator support may open up fender and hood gaps. What type of suspension? If coilovers, a simple adjustment on ride height may be the fix.

WOW! I'm not sure how streetable that chassis is and begs the question, What's your intended use for the truck. For street use and simplicity, what's in there is a good choice, probably detune it a bit or a big block of the same era. An SRT would look at home also because of that particular chassis if you have the finances and tech skills to pull it off.

It looks like an excellent opportunity to teach troubleshooting skills, engine build theory like cam choice, manifold choice, carb size as to vehicle usage, diff gearing as applied to engines, suspension choices, frame structure. Someone went to a lot of expense with body mods, bed has a lot of mods in addition to the lift. As far as an SRT install, there are no kits to fit it into a Pilothouse chassis, stock or modified and it's not going to fit like the 360 does so all that will need to come out and start building from scratch. Since it was sold in the Syracuse area, it was probably built in the NY area. Ask around at the local car shows. Someone may know the builder

.An industrial engine probably would have had a governor on it to limit top RPM but jetted to provide max torque. Unless You have fuel delivery problem, I'd start looking at point bounce, gap and advance. Have you tested fuel pump volume?

Look at the check balls and ball seats, relief valve. The plunger just pumps fluid and the O-ring and backup ring seal it.