Dave72dt

I'm not sure what an "off season" is. I work on projects year round.

Out and about means other people get to enjoy them also, even if only momentarily as they pass by on the highway. This post is wandering away from the original topic. The Masonite I used was a 4 x 8 sheet I picked up in the "damaged" section of a local Menards store for 5 bucks so I got a couple sheets. Vinyl was about 8 / yard, less than a yard used, left over from sewing seat covers, some 1/ 4"landau foam left over from covering the package tray. Less than $20 in them total, aside from time. I had enough Masonite left over to pattern door cards for the B3B as well as the roof panels. I haven't decided yet on full length door panels or half panels like the originals would have been on the truck.

I drove mine yesterday in the snow. Not far. Just enough to get it put away for the winter. It's got handmade Masonite cards in it and it's still exposed to the weather even if it does have a roof over it as well as a cheap car cover, I''ll see how it fairs in the spring. I've got other vehicles I can drive in bad weather. One's old enough to be called a classic and the other one is close. Both sit out year round. If I need to go, that's what I'll take.

The one problem I've come across with that material of cards is it's susceptible to moisture. It should probably have some type of moisture barrier installed or the boards sealed. Otherwise, they may start to warp out shape.

Check the spring tension on the points and the rotor fitting snugly. I've seen clips missing and the point's spring assembled wrong.

solid core or suppression wires?

Remove the ground cable and charge the battery. Remove the charger and let the battery sit for 10-15 minutes to stabilize voltage. Take a voltage reading and let it sit overnight with the charger and ground cable still off. Take a voltage reading and compare it to the first reading. If lower let it sit another 8 hours with the charger and cable still off, then take another voltage reading. If lower again, battery is bad. If all the readings are the same, start looking at cables and grounds. Any cable with a replacement end or a greenish tint including any woven mesh cable is suspect.

Seams have two sides to them. the bottom side needs to be done as well.

Every counter person I've ever met has stories they could tell about customers similar to Sniper's. I can't even begin to tell you how many customers don't know the m/m/y they drove up in and want parts for. I and every one of my associates has had to look at cars for suspension types, brakes, steering, RPO codes, exhaust pipe sizes, engine size, date of manufacture, VIN, submodel, count lug nuts and some instances, wheel size because getting the right part to the customer requires that info. There's a phone line attached to every store.. If you've looked up the part yourself or calling them to look up the part, have them do a physical check for the parts before you make the trip. Even if automated inventory control, it isn't 100% accurate of what's on hand. When at the store bring the old parts with and compare to the new. There seems to be variations available for almost every part on the cars and trucks we drive daily. If you ordered a part, pick it up in a timely manner. Variations in part is not new. Posters are constantly being reminded of distributor model numbers, carb numbers, starter numbers, etc. simply because of the age of these vehicles and the possibility or probability of parts being swapped from other years and models. Be proactive by having the needed info at hand.

I've been on both sides of the counter and know there are pros and cons to both. Computers don't always have all the info you may need and the books don't either. Depending on what you're looking for, one may be easier to use than the other. I don't mind getting the new person. I let them look up the parts and then verify by comparing to the numbers I brought with me. They won't get better if they don't get some experience and since the parts I need aren't always common parts, it can be a bit of a challenge sometimes. Having them ask the right questions to get to the correct part is part of it.

You'll need to press the yoke out of the retainer first, then the seal can be removed.

Check your cables, all the grounds and put the charger on it

Read the tech sheets before adding anything to your paint. It may not have liked that particular type of hardener or any hardener at all.

Welding skills will come in handy regardless of pre fabbed or scratch built panels. You have to attach them somehow and rivets and screws are not recommended for structural components. Purchasing equipment to make really nice panels for one build project doesn't make a lot of sense. Pre fabbed panels are usually reasonably close and most require some "adjustment" in how they fit, how crisp the lines are, etc. Hammers, dollies, cutting tools, clamps are needed for either panels and you're sure to find some other spots that may need a patch that can be made with hand tools. Metal brakes, shears, planishing hammers, etc can be expensive and take up a lot of room

Touching the two heavy posts together will make the starter turn over but it does not push the starter drive into the ring gear. Power to one of the small posts on the solenoid is supposed to do that. As that starter drive engages, contact is made internally in the solenoid to connect the two heavy posts, same as what you did with the screwdriver externally. If you touch the small post that has the wire coming from the starter button to the heavy post on the starter coming from the battery, it should engage the solenoid, spin the starter and the engine.

TDc is only 1 degree. It's effects are only a few degrees. Does your statement mean your Cyl 1 on compression and rotor pointing to 1 o'clock or Cyl 6 is on compression and rotor pointing to 1 o'clock? First scenario puts your timing 180 degrees out, second means you got it right.

I'm sure they can put it together in time but it's going to get really expensive. Missing parts, parts installed only to be removed because some other part needed to go on first, wrong parts, etc and by the hour labor, often repeating the same work several times. Most body shops charge by flat rate x their per hour and good body shops can generally beat flat rate. so you're never going to be priority work. A parts manual with illustrations will help the most and you can try to find another car the same as yours, even if in a scrap yard and take pictures of everything. You could also farm out just the drivetrain if you don't have the skills, have them set the body on the frame if it's off and finish the assembly yourself.

You'll get "3 or 4 pushes" of air because you're probably stopping to get a new grip on the fan/belt and there is still air in the cylinder as the piston continues on it's way up. Compression stroke comes around every other complete rotation of the crankshaft. Now that you're finding a compression stroke, you can use the rod on cyl 6. If you go past TDC, you can go backwards a bit and then forward again to your marks.

Apparently it's a common issue. I might have used CV axle grease or cornhead grease, something that flows a bit better than wheel bearing grease.

Probably a broken spring inside the latch which is likely riveted or spot welded together. You may be able to get it apart and repair it. Not serviceable means it was only available as a complete unit. It's already broke so theoretically you can't hurt it by going deeper.

Is the shifter on the floor or on the column?

With the glass out of the track you may have enough room to be able to wiggle the regulator down enough to pull the clips holding the glass on. You'll need the regulator out to repair or replace it. That spring gets rusted so it doesn't slide over the other coils as well as the several pivot points. You'll have to pull the handle off to get the regulator out.

If it's a recent issue I'd guess the vent tube has become plugged or pinched. If it's always been that way finding a different angle to hold the nozzle may help. I've had several vehicles that would not accept stuffing the nozzle in full depth and locking the lever down fully and turning the nozzle sideways a bit helped. It may or may not have a vent solenoid that is not working. I have to assume it's a closed system for emission purposes.

You only need about half of those items to actually start it. If you're going to use a remote starter switch, you may as well use a remote ignition switch, a simple on/off toggle will work. Your gen, voltage regulator and trans relay do not need to work or be hooked up and a simple jumper from battery hot to the coil will work for an ign switch. Use an alligator clip at one end or the other to stop the engine.

Just because a battery has recently been replaced doesn't mean it's good or is a fresh battery. It should have a date code on it, either a letter and 2 numbers or 1 or 2 number/ two numbers, not the warranty punchout date. Troubleshooting is done by testing. You can test the battery while the starter is off being refurbished. Your battery status then becomes a fact instead of an "I don't think it's that".