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Dave72dt

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Everything posted by Dave72dt

  1. Dave72dt
    Been easier to check quality if they had been cleaned up. Current bid price is good but the shipping costs for something that may be fogged up from delaminating and no better than what I have isn't worth it to me. How much effort would it have been to take a little window cleaner to them to maximize a sale price?
  2. Dave72dt
    What kind of glue did you use to stick everthing to the ceiling like that and if it was stuck that well, howdid you get it down?
  3. Dave72dt
    Cabs are very generic although there some small difference with some of the dirt shields by the front cab mounts. Body panels are pretty much salvaged from a donor or a DIY patch .
  4. Dave72dt
    Probably can if the old shield isn't damaged while removing it. Often they'll get a small kink where the screwdiver was used to pry, but done carefully... The seal part of the shield is on the inside race and is a light press fit on the outside. If you damage the seal, you can minimize the leakage that may get by it by placing that area on top when installing in the transmission.
  5. Dave72dt
    Your filter could very easily have been a dealer installed unit and given how poor a lot of install directions are in our current time, I can only imagine how install directions might have looked back then.
  6. Dave72dt
    Brakes are too important to guess if they are still good. Replace all the steel lines and rubber hoses and go through each part of the brake system. Brake lines also corrode from the inside out so what you think may look good on the outside will give out when you need them to work their very best.
  7. Dave72dt
    Those shields will pop right off with a small screwdriver.
  8. Dave72dt
    The smaller fitting in Ed's picture is the one most likely like the one on your engine, not saying that's even original when your engine was first installed. The larger one is the one I prefer. Slip a hose on to drain, remove when finished.
  9. Dave72dt
    Might have been misleading, what I wrote. The extension is about an inch long and is there only to direct fluid away from the block or to slip a removable hose onto for draining purposes only. Nothing permanent.
  10. Dave72dt
    318's are good reliable engines, seem to last forever. I'd look more to a 360 for a performance build. 340s are nice if you can find them but the 360 is much more plentiful and basically takes up the same space as the 318. I've got a 318 in mine basically because it's what I had at the time. Doesn't mean it's stock because it isn't, doesn't mean I intend to race it either.
  11. Dave72dt
    You can still get that type of block drain, some even come with a tube extension that you can slip a hose onto, which I prefer to use when for some reason I need to drain the coolant. It's less messy than the pipe plug.
  12. Dave72dt
    I would think having one made again would be relatively easy. There's a lot more places capable of bending pipe now than there ever used to be. Anything left of the old one would make it really easy to pattern a new one.
  13. Dave72dt
    Just the rear, top and bottom or top, bottom, rear edge and front where bolts to front grille? Mine were bad in all those spots but time spent with a welder and some scrap hood panel ( Chev truck ) fixed them all.
  14. Dave72dt
    We did this with the race car after every heat it ran in and the competition wondered why we consistently did so well with less horsepower and less money invested than most of the others.
  15. Dave72dt
    Can you get the valves out? With the engine upside down, you may be able to drive the tappets up towards the valves enough to gain clearance. Gently.
  16. Dave72dt
    I have one gas station I prefer to use that my daily, designed for 87 octane seems to get me the best mileage it also has 89 for the same price as 87 so I use the 89. It does seem to run better and for more MPG than the 87. If you haven't worn out the engine with the old oils, sucking all that all that crud that seems to accumulate and with the likely fewer miles it will likely get as a hobby truck, any good oil used in today's vehicles should work fine. The 'OIL" topic always gets hotly debated and raises the hackles on every expert with no clear winners. We all will have our preferences and will use those regardless of the outcome of this debate!
  17. Dave72dt
    You've just got to post pics of that build! It comes up every once in a while as a gotta see one done that way.
  18. Dave72dt
    I think he was checking parts availability. You know, things like gear ratio, disc brakes.
  19. Dave72dt
    Postcard pictures! Fantastic scenery. We're headed north 150 miles tomorrow and wouldn't be surpised to encounter remmnants on last weekend snow.
  20. Dave72dt
    I like to use an air hammer for vibrating rust loose. That and a good penetrant to flush it out helps. Once again, weld a big washer to what's left if possible, a nut to that. Impact wrench, working it both directions should get it out.
  21. Dave72dt
    Sure, a little off the stud.
  22. Dave72dt
    The only time I have ever seen the pins lubed is when the rear main or trans input seal leaked. I have seen the holders the throw out brg rides up and down the tube on have grease fittings which were either never greased or way over greased. Sometimes lubrication in a naturally dusty or abrasive area creates a sticky spot for those dust or abrasive particles to cling to, accelerating the wear.
  23. Dave72dt
    That's definitely a new question! I would think you would have problems filling it to start with. Wouldn't the fill cap be pointing sideways? Would definitely need an expansion tank and a really good fitting cap. Will that orient the hose connections correctly. I think the mounting points will end up on the sides as well and those little U shaped rubbers wouldn't support much going in that direction. Other than that, I suppose it would work, but don't quote me saying it will.
  24. Dave72dt
    Understood. Motor's been in and out of mine 4or 5 times for various reasons. Has to come out at least once more before final assembly (long ways off).
  25. Dave72dt
    It was a cold,gray drizzly day when late in the afternnon a collection of primered and rusty parts resembling an old Pilot-house Doge truck found it's way back into the man cave where it's owner eagerly anticipated spending time massaging it's blemishs and imperfections back to it's once glorious trappings of sixty years prior. M truck's back inside and I can once again go back to welding, grinding, fitting, grinding, sanding, grinding, welding. Been almost three months- too long!
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