Dave72dt

Unless wiring and soldering has become a craving I think you meant vise. The trucks themselves may be a vice. Amazing what a difference a letter change makes:D

Mar-K and Bruce Horkey both sell replacement beds and floor kits. there may be others as well. I don't know of anyone repopping sheet metal for cab, fenders or floor. There might be some 'glass fenders but I'm not sure. Maybe just rumors. Roberts, Steele, Bernbaum, Restoration Specialties may be able to help with some other pieces. A couple places do interiors as well a forum member who has patterns for sale for the DIY guy. Aftermarket support for the Dodges is nowhere near as plentiful as the Ford and Chevy trucks but it is getting better.

Why do I get the idea that's someone else's truck and girl?:D:D

That's the kind I've used for years. I don't use them anymore except to strip the wires. I prefer to pull the insulated sleeve off the connector/end and solder them, finishing with a bit of heat shrink tubing that was slid over the wire before soldering. Same thing goes with the cable crimp. I consider those a tempory connection,just like most battery cable repair ends. Solder them, heat shrink.

Will these help - drivers door - B3B

All these years I should have been looking for those disc bolts when repairing clutches. I've never found any. Rivets, broken springs, but no bolts and not many with locating pins either.

Sure can!

How much of a channel do you put into it?

I use the "preview post" feature to test my photo attempts. Go down the reply page and hit the "manage attachments' button, then in that window the BROWSE button, find your photo,open it. Should find a file name alonside ther BROWSE button. Now go to the right side of the box, hit upload, repeat up to 5 times. When all desired (up to 5) pics are loaded,bottom of box, hit CLOSE WINDOW, should bring you back to the REPLY box. Hit PREVIEW POST to test. All good, hit SUBMIT. There are other ways also. Check out the FAQ section in the top banner. There's a section on managing attachments that has methods for posting pics also. The above method works for me. Maybe you can do more than 5 at a time but I think that's the limit. I'm still learning how to get the computor to do what I want also. It knows, I just don't know how to tell it what I want it to do.

Pictures made it! Guessing the truck will be painted blue. Scenery in second pic looks like it could be out my front door. Very similar terrain.

Can't answer the "Cap " question. Mine didn't come with any.

Had a GREAT Thanksgiving. Managed to find time this afternoon to start stripping the left bed side. Found rust under the license plate bracket so off it came, cut the rust out, made a patch. welded it in, ground and finished. I use the "preview post" feature to test my photo attempts. Go down the reply page and hit the "manage attachments' button, then in that window the BROWSE button, find your photo,open it. Should find a file name alonside ther BROWSE button. Now go to the right side of the box, hit upload, repeat up to 5 times. When all desired (up to 5) pics are loaded,bottom of box, hit CLOSE WINDOW, should bring you back to the REPLY box. Hit PREVIEW POST to test. All good, hit SUBMIT.

They still have the rubber on them and I'd guess it to be dust or mold.

Been easier to check quality if they had been cleaned up. Current bid price is good but the shipping costs for something that may be fogged up from delaminating and no better than what I have isn't worth it to me. How much effort would it have been to take a little window cleaner to them to maximize a sale price?

What kind of glue did you use to stick everthing to the ceiling like that and if it was stuck that well, howdid you get it down?

Cabs are very generic although there some small difference with some of the dirt shields by the front cab mounts. Body panels are pretty much salvaged from a donor or a DIY patch .

Probably can if the old shield isn't damaged while removing it. Often they'll get a small kink where the screwdiver was used to pry, but done carefully... The seal part of the shield is on the inside race and is a light press fit on the outside. If you damage the seal, you can minimize the leakage that may get by it by placing that area on top when installing in the transmission.

Your filter could very easily have been a dealer installed unit and given how poor a lot of install directions are in our current time, I can only imagine how install directions might have looked back then.

Brakes are too important to guess if they are still good. Replace all the steel lines and rubber hoses and go through each part of the brake system. Brake lines also corrode from the inside out so what you think may look good on the outside will give out when you need them to work their very best.

Those shields will pop right off with a small screwdriver.

The smaller fitting in Ed's picture is the one most likely like the one on your engine, not saying that's even original when your engine was first installed. The larger one is the one I prefer. Slip a hose on to drain, remove when finished.