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Dave72dt

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Everything posted by Dave72dt

  1. Dave72dt

    AMC 4.0L in a 39-47 Dodge/Plymouth

    Since it's already at a body shop, I wouldn't go any further than primer before you start fitting in the proposed drivetrain. I can only imagine the damage to fresh paint when trying to fit that drivetrain in.
  2. Dave72dt

    Droopy door handle

    It will not just pull out. There's a set screw in a retainer that must first be loosened. Unfortunately, it's a socket style set screw that's sits below the edge of the retainer that's usually rusty in the exposed threads. There's a small hole in the side of the door that you work through. Good luck with it. That set screw has been a real trial for most of us.
  3. Dave72dt

    shock absorbers for my 53 truck

    Monroe doesn't show an interchange for the gariel 82065 shock. It's kind on an oddball with a 11/16 mounting bolt used. Listed as 12.04 extended, 11.9 something compressed , 7.something travel. Modifying the mounts (dia., width) may let you find a more common shock. Do some measuring on your mounts to see what you can do with them.
  4. Dave72dt

    What is this??

    You could be right on it's usage as a vac motor tester. It may have other uses as well if it has a leakdown shut off valve and a timer as well. It might be useful for testing vac advances , brake boosters as well. ,I saw an Allen brand tester with similar amenities but couldn't see what type the gauges were. Said is was a motor tester, with vac, compression tester and assorted adaptors for that, couple lead wires, an all around mechanics diagnostic tool.
  5. Dave72dt

    1953 Dodge B1B Pilot House Front End Question

    A M II suspension is one way to go. Bear in mind, it's an entire front suspension swap, not just a disc brake upgrade. If it's just the disc brakes you're after, Rusty Hopes kit has been a popular choice as well as the Scarebird kit. There's some kits for the M II if that's your choice or some clips have been done as well. Both will require welding skills and are much more involved than the relatively simple plain disc kits. .You may want to ask a moderator to move this to the truck forum. Sharp people on this and the truck forum but not all visit both sites and when your questions get more truck specific, you may get better and more detailed answers on the truck side.
  6. Dave72dt

    Door Removal

    One of those gotchas.. It needs to float so you can adjust the door in or out. Since the other half of the hinge is welded to the door, there needs to some method of adjustment. The other adjustment. forward or back means bending the hinge itself, not pleasant.
  7. Dave72dt

    Door Removal

    You can either pull the pin on the a pillar or remove the inner door panel, remove the pin there, the washer and bump stop. My choice is the one on the pillar.
  8. Dave72dt

    218 Timing Issues

    You don't have to do that. Pull the distributor out, turn the rotor 180 degrees and put it back in. # 6 cyl on compression, rotor pointing to 1 o'clock, # 6 p;lug wire in the 1 o'clock cap location..
  9. Dave72dt

    New 1952 suburban project

    5th gear is an OD , 4th would be 1:1
  10. Dave72dt

    Dropping transmission - any pointers?

    I used to do them the same way Don, including automatics but for some reason I find there's less and less room under the car for both me and the transmission. Manual trans aren't so bad but those autos with the built in bellhousings take up a lot of space. I balance them on a floor jack now and make sure my fingers and hands are not under them in case they slip off the jack. My old F 250 transmission would slide back far enough and wedge on the cross member far enough to change the clutch. As far as a tip, I use a couple of guide pins if possible. Mine are bolts with the head cut off and I cut a slot in the end of the pins for a screwdriver to assist in removal, taper the end of the pin a bit also. and make one maybe 1/2 inch shorter than the other so I don't have to catch them both at the same time.
  11. Dave72dt

    Rear axle and wheels

    If you have a back cover on it, you'll probably have to pop the cover and do the pin and c clips. If there is no back cover, it's all done at the outer ends of the axle. Drum brakes may still require you the remove the backing plate to get to the seal. Disc brakes, you'll still have to deal with rotors and calipers.
  12. Dave72dt

    B3B Diff and front end swap info please

    You'll loose the parking brake with the powertrain update so a diff swap may be a practical thing to do. You may also get a more highway friendly cruising gear ratio with the swap.
  13. Dave72dt

    New 1952 suburban project

    Go over to the truck section, then hit the search button and type in Ranger od. You'll find some posts on the 5speed amo.ngst other posts regarding differentials
  14. Dave72dt

    How many are using gas?

    I own my tank, 130 cu ft and since I don't weld every day or for long periods when I do, the tank lasts me quite a while, exchange the tank, pay for the gas and a minimal service fee. I could have got 5 year lease for about 15 bucks less but if I'm still welding stuff in 5 years, i'd have to renew the lease. Not every gas supplier will sell the tanks and even then, not every size tank is for sale. You can get by fairly well with flux core on the heavier metal where you can run solid beads, not that much different than a stick welder, but for sheet metal where most of my welding is done, gas does much better. If you buy a welder, at least buy one with the gas option.
  15. Dave72dt

    question about carbs.

    Air coming through the clamp area of the filter is before all the A/F metering parts of the carb so it wouldn't affect the mixture.
  16. Dave72dt

    Engine noise makers

    At an idle, with the air cleaner off, probably the carb. As rpm increases, switches over to the fan, JMO Used to be a fairly commo practice to flip the lids on the air cleaner ( paper filters ) to get the sound of massive amounts of air rushing into the carb, especially when the 4 bbl opened. Maybe added a couple of horsepower. Who knows, had to be better than trying to dray all the air through those little snorkels that were on all the factory air cleaners.
  17. Dave72dt

    question about carbs.

    How steady are the timing marks? Since you've pretty much verified the ignition system is working efficiently, the intermittent miss is either mechanical or fuel related. Pick either and test to prove what is right. compression reading, cylinder leakdown and vacuum readings, some visual inspections to pinpoint,and it may be a combination of several items that's causing the situation.
  18. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Heating the old metal might pop some rust pockets loose or expose really thin areas and that's just a guess on my part. Normally you try to confine as much of the heat as you can to the immediate weld spot and limit the amount of heat transfer to adjoining areas. Weld shrinkage gets worse the more heat you put in.
  19. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    All I see is a little "x" so guessing the image has been deleted. I think every time you make a weld it has to get hot enough to first melt the end of the wire to open it for the flux to flow. Maybe a suggestion to run a bit of wire out, enough to just clip the sealed end off so flux is exposed. then start the tack keeping most of the heat on the fresh metal. You only make spots, no beads, letting it cool well between spots, and moving around on the seam, not placing the next spot right next to the previous one, trimming the wire each time and cleaning the flux from the spots. I run my tacks hot, to get instant penetration so on-off the trigger. Too cold takes too long to get the thicker metal hot and the thin stuff wants to melt away by the time the thicker is ready to accept the filler wire. Galvanized is a no-no, it gives off poisonous gasses. You can also use a flat piece of copper pressed up against the metal as a heat sink to reduce burn through. Some practice on scrap pieces to get the welder settings perfected will reduce scrapping you formed and fitted pieces. Practice with them off the table surface since that also acts as a heat sink and will make your settings wrong for welding unsupported metal patches.
  20. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Does your mini-console need to be removable? Will it be subject to moisture from below? If not, maybe give that plywood some coats of a good urethane, seal up the ends, radius the sharp edges, glue some thin foam to it and cover in vinyl. A lot of the custom consoles in high end show cars are wood based, foamed and then wrapped. They're removable though if that makes a difference.
  21. Dave72dt

    The Strange Ignition Mystery - solved

    Some problems really don't show up very often and tracking them down can be very frustrating. I once had a rotor ground to the distributor shaft. Black rotor with a very small dot of gray under the center terminal contact point and even smaller gray dot on the bottom side of the rotor. The rest of the rotor looked like new. That's why I've always recommended a systematic approach to troubleshooting.
  22. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    I like using thin cardboard, that's the thickness of cereal boxes, making them full size, then laying them out over the sheetmetal, then cutting a bit oversize to allow material for trimming to fit. I can put layout lines on the carboard for bends and put the bends in. Cereal boxes, pizza boxes are fair game for smaller pieces. I also use same type of cardboard for profile gauges for the amount of bend needed. Curved pieces get a cardboard template that gets transferred to steel that gets fine tuned before cutting the old piece out.
  23. Dave72dt

    Bench seat mounts

    Those should work nicwely. Power everything in those seats, maybe even heat. Only thing I might do, if it were mine, would be to lose the headrest and pop in some plugs. Your choice, your build, don't worry about the rest of us.
  24. Dave72dt

    "Ol Blue" Build

    I'm looking at what appears to be pitting in #1 on the head. Some of those pits may be leading into the cooling passages When running, were you getting bubbles in the radiator? How long, starting from dead cold did it take to get hot? I'm guessing you're getting combustion gases in the cooling system. #1 piston also looks a bit funky, maybe some pitting in the top of it as well that even more inclines me toward combustion gasses.
  25. Dave72dt

    coil need to be grounded?

    Pull the primary wire that goes to the dist, off the coil, and recheck for voltage coming out of the coil. If you do, the problem is after the coil, meaning at, or in the distributor.
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