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Everything posted by Dave72dt

  1. Dave72dt

    Has anybody tall thinned out their seatback?

    My firewall Is set back quite a bit as well. While I have buckets mounted, my most comfortable position was by actually moving the entire seat forward and then leaning it back. When I had the seat shoved back as far as it would go, the seating position was too upright and felt like I was folded up. Moving forward and leaned back relaxed the knees and legs. Since you have a standard height cab, you should be able to go up a bit and lean it back at the same time.
  2. Dave72dt

    Me and the B-1-D

    What you may be looking for may be called ribbon webbing by an auto upholstery supplier or someone who does marine covers. I've got a bunch of it in 1", 1 1/2", 2 " that came with the used sewing machine purchased several years ago from a upholsterer who did a ;lot of boat covers before he retired. If you can't find anything, let me know and I'll send you some.
  3. Dave72dt

    ggdad1951 truck project montage: FEF!

    I got a chance to see it at last year's btt50's. I'd seen it in pieces and finally got to see it all together. that place is huge and my son, his wife and I spent the entire day Saturday keeping a lookout for it, finally found it as we were heading out to go home walking on one of the outer perimeter streets. Looks really good and sounds as good as it looks. Excellent truck to use as reference for a restoration or inspiration to go forward on your own project.
  4. Dave72dt

    Plasti Dip

    I guess I didn't understand what you meant by "island'". I interpreted it as glass itself because the rear section of glass seems to be somewhat smeared. Do you mean the area around the glass that's now black? If so, DupliColor makes a peel off paint that you can experiment with. I believe it becomes permanent after a certain number of days. My apologies if I've offended you in this series of posts.
  5. Dave72dt

    Plasti Dip

    My definition of tinted window would still imply some transparency. Plasti Dip could be used as a blackout material and I think they make it in red also so maybe as a redout material. Sometimes cutting a corner, repurposing materials turns out to be more work and more expense than using the product actually designed for the project. This sounds like a case in point if that's what happened. Sorry Paul, if your good intentions and innovative thinking didn't work out.
  6. Dave72dt

    Plasti Dip

    I don't mind admitting to my mistakes, but if that's the case, I'm not too sure I'd advertise it unless it's intended as a learning tool for the rest of us on what not to do . Tip of the Day: Plasti -Dip does not work well as a window tint material.
  7. Dave72dt

    Plasti Dip

    I'll assume the Plasti-Dip on the windows was unintentional.
  8. Dave72dt

    Battered Battery

    should have thought of that. Goes to prove everyone can have a "Duh" moment. I just wish I didn't have so many.
  9. Dave72dt

    Battered Battery

    For those suggesting the drain and refill, have you found anyplace willing to take used acid, w/ wo a fee?
  10. Dave72dt

    Battered Battery

    I deal with cold also and as such, I opt for as much CCA as the box will hold. Ask about warranty though before you purchase. That battery as well as most 6V will be considered commercial and warranty usually is about 6 months free, 12 prorated. Good part is you can probably replace it twice for the price of an Optima.
  11. Dave72dt

    Ford explorer rearend

    A tape measure will answer most of your questions on the Explorer axle. Spring width may be different. You'll need to check that as well as pinion angle. Shock location and mounting may be entirely different as well so you'll need to salvage those of your old axle ( new perches can be bought ). Using an Explorer master may or may not be a good choice unless you are looking to go with power brakes. I doubt you'll find any Explorer masters that weren't set up to work without a booster. You could probably use it but you may need to play with the pedal leverage ratio a bit.
  12. Looks real good, similar to my floor. Looks like you may have used rectangular tubing between the door pillars. I used 1 x 3 on mine, put a 90 degree brake edge on the front edge of the floor pan and then matched the brake angles for the toe panels and plug welded them in.
  13. Dave72dt

    Crankshaft confusion

    Definitely recheck the dimensions. Your OP indicated 30 mains and 20 rods and your caliper readings indicated 20 mains and 30 rods for the crank. Most times your crank grinder will supply the bearings but double check they (or you), didn't transpose numbers and get you the wrong ones. Bearing shells usually have the thousandths stamped on the back side.
  14. Dave72dt

    Info please on mustang 2 installation

    I did a Welder Series MII on my B3B. The manufacturer provides these in kits in three different widths, based on frame width with individual pieces that need to be trimmed to fit your frame and desired ride height. Your truck may have more distance between the pan and axle than the MII so there may be some conflict there. the bigger problem is matching your box to an IFS or your column to a r& p system. Instructions are pretty good but you do have to understand the basics of steering geometry, understand the instructions before you go cutting, be able to measure accurately and be proficient in welding I THINK I used the middle width option combined with a Thunderbird power R & P, Tbird outer tie rod ends and a '84 F250 tilt steering column that's been shortened. Column has the wheellock and key switch built in, 4 ways, and I grabbed the wiper switch ( 2 speed w/ intermittent) and light switch(adjustable inst panel brightness) while I was pulling it from the donor, all for about 20 bucks.
  15. Dave72dt

    Rebuilding engine

    Nice way to close out the year, for both you and the rebuilder. Very nicely done.
  16. Using the stock transmission, probably easier to use the flathead driveshaft since finding a flange style yoke to fit it may be more difficult than replacement for the ranger rear. DIYing it, you may want to use a combo of both. If so, remember those joints need top be phased.
  17. Dave72dt

    slightly warped 304ss exhaust pipe flange

    Now that you've almost got the flange flat, how flat is the mating surface of the manifold?
  18. Dave72dt

    1954 Dodge truck mod. C 1 J 71

    Give your wheel cylinders a good scrubbing on the outside. You may find number cast or stamped into it. Those numbers if you can find them, should transfer directly to a Wagner #.
  19. Dave72dt

    Rings vs valves or both

    Your oil pressure would indicate to me you have worn bearings, possibly the crank also and if that's the case, it needs to come out and get turned, unless these engines tend to run at that pressure when warmed up. Unfortunately, the plumes of smoke likely mean both rings and valves need attention and the most cost effective process is doing the whole thing at once. Worn bearings won't solve the plumes. Replacing rings may reduce plumes but you may have worn cylinders, broken ring lands and you're dropping the pan and unbolting con rods to get pistons out before you can measure for cylinder taper and out of round. Valves may (probably ) need guides and then seats matched to the guides. Most of these processes will require the assistance of a professional and at shop rates, you'll save time and money having all necessary work done at one time. You can do some initial inspection yourself by doing a compression test, leakdown test. then pulling the head and doing a visual of cylinder bores and checking for valve movement in the guides. You can do engine removal, component removal and basically strip the engine down and do the reassembly and install. There are things that need to be marked and noted during teardown and forum members can assist and guide you through that as well as assembly.
  20. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    The 10 plies on my daily run at 60, rated at 80. I'm not a fan of sidewall flex especially when towing. I used to tow a lot of farm equipment with it and I maxed the psi out when I was in the business. It doesn't get heavy loads now but the 60 psi helps a bit with the gas mileage. 45 makes the truck feel a bit squirrelly when cornering or with a load..
  21. Would it have been easier to put the filler on the other side of the truck?
  22. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    That only works if you have singles. Duals on the rear means the outside wheel is not contained and they can come apart when putting the wheel on the truck as well.. When I worked at a tire dealership back in the early 70's, we saw some of the split rims. Most tires were 1 and 2 piece ring style, tubeless front flotation tires on the logging trucks and had stopped servicing the split rims I think about '75. There may have been an OSHA warning sent out on them at that time. I seem to recall that most of those rims we dealt with were on school buses.
  23. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    Those wheels with the red and the extra plates on them are NOT the ones you want to use. Those are the split rims you want to avoid. There is no other reason for those plates bolted to the rim other than someone trying to convince themselves they were now safe to use. Split ring and split rim are often thought of as the same style rim. They are not. Years ago, 3/4 ton and up pickups often got a split ring as well, but they were always even number sizes and always had a tube. Tubeless were an option, starting with 16.5's and up, always with the .5. Get a nail in a tube type, tire goes flat right away. Whatever you do with those "new" tires, don't attempt tp put them on tubeless or on the old rims.
  24. Really deep first gear and 4th is I to 1, same as the 3 speed. Full synchro trans. Most of the time, swapping out the trans means swapping out the rear diff as well since the E brake goes away when OEE trans goes away.
  25. Dave72dt

    Repairing pilothouse fenders

    Complex shapes tend to have more resistance to visible weld shrinkage than those larger, flatter panels. Spending forever stitching 1/4s on and keeping weld shrinkage to a minimum more than makes up for the time you can spend stretching those welds back out. I've never used flux when oxy-wire welding. Controlling the puddle and the filler rod will get you a bead as long as material thickness, tip size, puddle size and rod diameter all work together. Very similar to tig and just like oxy welding, much more malleable than the mig as far as stretching the welds back out. On those flatter panels , constantly check for shrinkage distortion and stretch the welds back as soon as you find any.

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