Dave72dt
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Everything posted by Dave72dt
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The hole is packed with carbon on the bottom. It's bigger than a pinhole.
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Have you tried pulling the plug for TDC and using the borescope through that. With the piston down instead of up you might get a better look at the entire piston.
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You best bet is taking the truck or a color sanded and buffed section of the truck to a paint supplier or body shop that has a color camera for paint and can then mix a amount for you if they haven't switched to waterborne paint only. Toners used to mix your color are no longer available and as Tim said, time does have an affect so unless the mixer is really good a close match is all you'll get. With more and more body shops switching to waterborne it's going to get even more difficult for the DIYer.
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Perhaps someone else can repeat the experiment on one of their carbs and report back. I don't have any carbs floating around or I'd try it myself.
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You don't by chance happen to use SEAFOAM in your tank. It's commonly used as a fuel additive for cars in storage over winter and that stuff will creep uphill.
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My personal preference is an additional .002 on intakes, additional .003 on exhaust when setting cold and book specs a hot setting.
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It still has holes in it and the bottom has not been blasted. If moisture can get in and sit, it'll rust. Panel adhesive has been used for years now. A lot of roofs are now glued on as well as some doors, rocker panels.
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Since you don't weld (preferred), an alternative repair method would be to make a panel and glue it in with panel adhesive (not the stuff you get from a hardware store but the kind a body shop uses to fasten panels). You still have to cut the bad metal out. Leaving the rotten metal in and covering over will rot both pieces. If you decide to make a panel and pop rivet it in, still cut the rot out and seam seal top and bottom. Fiberglass has been done and some swear by it. Your choice.
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I'll assume it's pretty dirty and caked with old grease around that end. Start cleaning. Remove the grease fitting and start looking for threads inside that end as well as a slot. Something on that end will unscrew to allow the ball socket to be adjusted/removed. There may be an external set screw locking the adjustment. do a Google search for drag link sockets so you know what to look for.
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If your local shops won't do split rings anymore, maybe they still have their old cage stashed somewhere that they'd be happy to get rid of.
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It was probably round originally and has been subjected to years of being compressed into a square cut groove. I wouldn't want to subject cork to the pressure that is developed in an oil pump. Are those Ebay rings square cut or round? Calipers to measure ID and OD of groove.
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Potential cheap shock relocation Mount option
Dave72dt replied to Dan Capeci's topic in P15-D24 Forum
My 93 F250 rear shock upper mounts sit about 2 " inboard and below the frame rail. To install these on my truck would require mounting them on the inside of the C shaped frame, open side of the frame is on the inside so I would guess the standout to the shock stud to be about 4 inches. you'll have to wait till it stops raining and dries up a bit if you need more accurate measurements. -
The drag links I'm familiar with had one end with cotter pin and slot cut into the end that a wide screwdriver blade or drag link socket fit into for adjusting and the other end would be a tie rod style. If the end that has play is similar to the tie rod style Sniper put up, replacement is your needed. If the other style, I believe some replacement sockets and cup, spring may be available. Post a pic of the bad end if you can.
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And when you turn the key back off, the current flow is interrupted
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The best I have found so far is Wizards metal polish. I've tried Mothers and Never Dull and the Wizards works far better than either of the other two.
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Will it do after the truck has been started? Does the engine need to be brought up to temp or just started?
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I consider points a switc0h. Open, close, on, off. Ignition switch on, ign switch off. Logic tells me my previous post is a possible scenario and every electrical circuit in the truck is available when the key is on.. I don't know whether or not Pertronix would or could respond similarly. How repeatable is this condition? Now that it's sat for a while will it do it before starting the engine or does it have to be run for a while. Will it do it after sitting for ten minutes or a half hour? Will it do it a second time, turning the key on and off immediately after it does it?
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By turning the ignition on and then off you did the same thing the points do when opening and closing, letting the coil fire a plug, and if a gas mixture is in that cylinder when it fires it'll rock the engine. That's my guess.
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ANSWERED 48 b1c door seal installation
Dave72dt replied to mikes48's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
That's the correct direction. -
If you could put some periods in your post it would help separate the one thought from another. Are you saying the trans runs quieter when starting it in gear with the clutch pedal up than it does when starting in neutral with the pedal up? Does the pedal come all the way up? Is the free play correct? If you found of ring of brass on the input shaft, it's probably too tight and likely slightly deformed from the install.
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It sounds like you're having difficulty getting the trans into gear because the clutch isn't releasing. If you had to pull the trans in with bolts, the clutch disc may be binding on the trans input shaft or the pilot brg is binding on it. The trans needs the correct oil and amount in it to provide some resistance to help slow the gears and the clutch itself must be properly adjusted for free play. Using a disc that was saturated with oil is going to be a problem and may be the problem you're having. The most likely is the disc binding on the shaft, One other possible I have seen is the disc installed backward.
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OP's first post mentioned flaking on the bottom shell of # 6 so I don't think he's going to be able to just leave them alone and since the engine was stuck he may need to go further in depth. The visual inspection is the start. How far the OP needs to go can be determined later. You've led a sheltered life. There's a lot of things that were done to salvage engines years ago that people shudder at today.
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It MAY say the size if the crank has been ground before. That however won't tell you if the crank journals are worn. Each journal will require multiple measurements taken and recorded. Keith probably has video of the process. You may also want to watch a video on the correct usage of micrometers, how to read them. Using them correctly will ensure an accurate measurement.
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I would too, and have. I was also making my living with them. It was the style of caliper that I was pointing out and he probably doesn't need to spend a bunch of money on a likely one time build buying high end tools. Cheap or not, they'll still be more accurate than the slide caliper for crank measurements. A slide caliper is still a handy tool for quick measurements and it won't hurt him to have one in his toolbox.
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https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Micrometer-Precision-Machinist/dp/B0045UZGSC/ref=sr_1_4? You want a set like this.
