Jump to content

Dave72dt

Members
  • Content count

    3,705
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About Dave72dt

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

Converted

  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired
  1. I guess i'm old school but I'd want to check them before everything got put back together and then find out you've got a leaker.
  2. 318 and 904 swap into 1951 B-3

    You may be able to using the stock suspension and a front sump oil pan. Doing a mock up of all the parts may give you the answer. Moving it forward or rearward , either will require some fabrication and problem solving. Moving it rearward for me gave me a better front to rear balance and room for the radiator to sit behind the front support. Moving it to right gave me more room for steering, pedals and my big feet in the cab and a again a better weight balance since most of it's road time will be driver only.
  3. 318 and 904 swap into 1951 B-3

    Without the mounts and cradles or changing the suspension setup from the Diplomat , you may be looking at mounts similar to what I did. A search for Fatman Fabrication IFS started by alboton back in 2010 has some pics of my mounts, IFS and firewall recess. I'd provide a link if I knew how to do it.
  4. 318 and 904 swap into 1951 B-3

    I've got a 318-727 combo in mine and as wayfarer said, took a different approach than Tim. I used a Welder Series coil-over IFS and lowered the truck about 5-6 inches in front and about 3-4 in back. What you have or use for front suspension, whether Volare, aftermarket IFS or factory I-beam will impact engine and trans placement and associated issues. I ended up recessing the engine about 5-6 inches into the firewall and shifting it 1 1/2 -2 inches to the right for steering column and foot clearance. Frame crossmembers got removed for trans clearance and a new crossmember fabbed for the trans mount with a drop out section for trans removal if needed, and the frame fully boxed, front to rear. There might be a few pics of the IFS somewhere in the truck forum, maybe a couple of the reworked firewall and trans tunnel. budstruck comes to mind, as a member, that has posted some pics of his swap, in a number of separate posts as he progressed.
  5. Building your own wood bed

    bed strips were done with the same paint as the sides, base/clear, bolt heads as well.
  6. 51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    Bob, you may find you need to cut the firewall as well as the trans tunnel for any V8 swap if that compartment was only designed to fit a straight 6 A measuring tape will be your best friend in determining whether or not those cuts are needed. Pay close attention to the oil pan and it's position amongst the suspension. It'll tell you how far forward or back and up or down you can go. You may need to look at alternative pans and pickups for better placement.
  7. 51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    I agree the Hemi can be as reliable as any other power choice. It has to do with the ability to find common failure items, like water and fuel pumps, ignition system parts that can and do fail occasionally on the road, by walking into a parts house and then walking out with the needed items. I gotta believe the odds for doing that are better for the newer engines than for the Hemi.
  8. 51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    There's always more to an engine swap than just making new mounts. Driveshaft, cooling system placement and size, starter and exhaust come to mind and all have to be taken into account.. You may want to consider one of the newer OD transmissions instead of the turbo 350 to mate to the SBC if you decide to go that way. The Red Ram would be cool for a local cruiser but for an extended trip, I'd want a newer power plant that has better parts access at parts houses than the Hemi.
  9. Red paint code for 48 B1B

    Spectremaster code RS910 for FEF with the enamel binder replaced with base/clear binder. Spectremaster is an Axalta owned company, has varying shades of primary and secondary colors with no specific vehicle application, same as a hardware store has for household usage. Your jobber may have an interchange code. If not, I'll try to get the national code number for you which may work for other brands.
  10. Todd Build Thread

    Those engines are normally good for over 300k with decent maintenance. Injectors, glow plugs and rebuild of the fuel pump are usually all they require. Something wrong with the engine that it requires a rebuild? A remanned long block may be more cost effective than having yours redone. You can still go ahead with cab and doghouse mockup.
  11. Welding uh-ohs

    If I had to make a guess, I'd say you have the wrong type wire in your welder, not the flux core.that you need
  12. Any Flathead Experts in Minneapolis?

    I had one of those Fish carbs once, long ago. I found it to be difficult to fine tune and make the engine happy from one season to the next. Has the engine ever run properly since you've owned it? If yes, did it gradually get worse or all of a sudden? Did you make some change to it just before it changed?
  13. Starter Bench Testing

    Many of the parts houses offer free starter and alternator testing so you could try them and most are going to do the same kind of testing knuckleharley has described. Try an implement dealer if you can find one. Some of those will still rebuild starters and generators for the older equipment and will still have the equipment and tools to do so.
  14. Any Flathead Experts in Minneapolis?

    The other part of PA's response is describing what you have already done, in detail as far as testing and trouble shooting and the results of those tests.. Fuel pressure and volume test? Full Pertonix system or just the coil? Is the coil matched to the system? Vacuum leaks? Advance working properly? There's probably at least a half dozen flat head owners in the Twin Cities area that may be able to give you a personal look-see and offer a hand solving your problem. Check the members map, send them a PM
  15. Fuses

    It does not have to be an IAY... So now you have choices. You can run you IAY with points or Pertronix, you may be able to install a vacuum advance on it, you may be able to find a different distributor with vacuum on it, you can do the Langdon's or a slant six conversion. Try the classifieds here.
×