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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!

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About Dave72dt

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

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  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Paul, go back to post 811. The pic Merle posted will show what your axle setup is like. What you're fighting is the outer brg race. It's a tight friction fit in the axle housing. I can't tell you if there are shims between the backing plate and brg race. The design looks like there should or could be. If there are, save them. They're used to set end play on the axle. A floating axle is completely different. The hub will have the brgs in it as well as the seal and the axle itself will be bolted to the hub. You'll find them on heavier trucks. I think the 1 ton and up uses that type of axle.
  2. Dave72dt

    BUMPER QUESTION

    That front bumper on Dennis' truck looks to be just about right for the rear.
  3. Dave72dt

    BUMPER QUESTION

    I seem to recall one that had a Ranger pickup bumper. A Dennis from MN if I remember correctly. Bronco II would be the same.
  4. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    metal on metal slides surprisingly easy when pushing, prying, etc. Use of good jackstands properly placed does not make the situation foolproof. I saw a 40' trailer frame come off GOOD stands once when we were having the axle setup changed. Fortunately the young man working on it was between the axles when it came down and no harm done. Just exercise caution when underneath these things.
  5. Dave72dt

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    It may be an improvement but it still looks unsafe to me. those three legged stands on the front end need some triangulation to the support beam, the 4 x 4 should be lagged down to the car ( assuming they're sitting under the front body mounts), the rear four leg stand needs triangulation as well and the 4 x 4 in the middle does nothing to prevent a collapse if either end were to kick out, especially when sitting on bottle jacks.. The body coming off your stands earlier should have been an indication of the need for proper support. Why did it shift so you had to reset the rear stand? What caused it to come down onto the frame. These projects are supposed to be enjoyable. I t won't be if safety is shortcutted and you get hurt. You put something up that high, the supports need to be rock solid. Working under it, pushing, prying, hammering, scraping. means extra caution needs to be your highest priority. Be careful and be safe!
  6. I'm sure there's a probability it can be fitted. I'm also sure there's a myriad of fitment issues that would need to be resolved. Maybe a conversion to a fluid drive trans from a Pilothouse or newer truck or one of the hydraulic-operated trans from a car, maybe even a Desoto, either one would cushion the effects you may have experienced with a strictly clutch only trans.
  7. Dave72dt

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    I've found on Bendix style drum brakes, the cylinder bore is usually larger on the front than the rears. That may not be the case with dual cylinder fronts or step bore cylinders. Someone with a master parts catalog would have to do some research to determine if the rear cylinders were ever used as a fronts or in an application where hoses were required.
  8. Dave72dt

    Best Way to Replace Floor Panels

    I think fabricating floor panels or purchasing panels depends a lot on the complexity of the panels, how much needs to be replaced, skill level of the fabricator, equipment available,, hiring the work done or DIY and maybe how close you want it to look original. Everybody oohed and aahed over the panels those guys over in Europe did a few years a go and to achieve that level without serious skills and equipment would be difficult for the home DIYer. Not everyone wants or needs or can afford to build to that level. Not having a bead roller, Pullmax, power hammer, opting for reproduction pieces made sense for the build level I'm going after on the Mach I My truck is a different story. Cab floor, dash, trans tunnel and firewall were handmade from scratch as well as all the rust repair patches. It's a full custom still high level, but those pieces can't be bought, have to be made. When I started on the truck, I was using donor panels as well. The last donor hood I got was glued down so tightly to the understructure, removing the exterior panel proved to be destructive and the panel became worthless. A lot of the newer stuff out there now has aluminum or ABS panels on them so now I just get a panel of cold rolled from a local manufacturing business that still does retail work I haven't seen the OP's floors so how best to repair them is difficult. Are the floors Flintstone variety or just a few pinholes? There's the fiberglass mat and POR15 method also.. Just saying, the price for those reproduction pieces isn't out of line if that's the way the OP decides to go.
  9. Dave72dt

    Best Way to Replace Floor Panels

    I spent about 600 on full length floor pans , trunk floor, trunk drops and tail panel for a Mach I, 6 or 7 years ago and 200 for 1 outer rocker for wife's 05 Silverado this spring. 800 for all those parts is well worth the money. You're less likely to get discouraged installing big pieces that already fit reasonably well and seeing progress than trying to form small pieces, welding them to probably thin metal and dreading the next piece you have to form. Yes , I still make some small pieces to patch in small areas but it's difficult to make those larger section that have a lot of curves, radius, recesses, ribs, etc and have them look decent without the proper tools.
  10. Dave72dt

    First project to tackle

    first thing is to make a thorough assessment of the truck. Clean it up and take a look at everything. Next step is safety. I'd recommend replacing all the brake lines, and hoses and at least a visual inspection of the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware. Steel brake lines can rust from the inside and still look good on the outside, rubber parts decay over time and wheel cylinders that have sat in one spot for a long time may have been now moved onto a rusty surface. Steering and suspension is next followed by vehicle reliability including radiator hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines and wiring.
  11. If your top still functions and is intact, measure everything, take lots of notes, draw pictures as you're taking the old top off . Placement of every part, rivet, screw, etc is important. Critical measurement is the rear bow to the deck measurement when the top is up. I did a top last winter and found the instruction woefully lacking in detail so I would recommend making your own during disassembly. You'll need an upholstery stapler. The common hand power staplers don't have enough power to drive into the tack strip.
  12. Dave72dt

    side panel fixing on truck bed

    Thanks, does make sense. just another of the differences between a B and C series truck.
  13. Dave72dt

    side panel fixing on truck bed

    Interesting your pic shows the boards ending where they meet the front end of the rear header. On my '51, they go over and are supported by the rear header. Is that board length correct for a C series?
  14. Dave72dt

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    It would make sense to keep the fuel line as far away from heat sources as possible to deter heated fuel issues that these trucks are known to be susceptible to. Running the fuel line over the rear crossmember may be shorter and give the engine compartment a cleaner look but it may cause a drivability issue. If hiding the line or making it less prominent is the goal, once the line is formed, painting it and the fasteners the same color as the chassis will make it almost disappear.
  15. Dave72dt

    Broken Piston Rings?

    You shouldn't have a problem with ring groove wear on new pistons or a ridge with a fresh bore. What you may have is a set of tight rings that weren''t gapped prior to installing on the piston. Something else commonly used to start a reluctant fire up on a fresh build is the can of ether. Too much can cause all sorts of issues. I prefer leaving the can on the shelf
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