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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!


About Dave72dt

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp
    1972 Mustang Mach I
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W


  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  1. Any Flathead Experts in Minneapolis?

    I had one of those Fish carbs once, long ago. I found it to be difficult to fine tune and make the engine happy from one season to the next. Has the engine ever run properly since you've owned it? If yes, did it gradually get worse or all of a sudden? Did you make some change to it just before it changed?
  2. Starter Bench Testing

    Many of the parts houses offer free starter and alternator testing so you could try them and most are going to do the same kind of testing knuckleharley has described. Try an implement dealer if you can find one. Some of those will still rebuild starters and generators for the older equipment and will still have the equipment and tools to do so.
  3. Any Flathead Experts in Minneapolis?

    The other part of PA's response is describing what you have already done, in detail as far as testing and trouble shooting and the results of those tests.. Fuel pressure and volume test? Full Pertonix system or just the coil? Is the coil matched to the system? Vacuum leaks? Advance working properly? There's probably at least a half dozen flat head owners in the Twin Cities area that may be able to give you a personal look-see and offer a hand solving your problem. Check the members map, send them a PM
  4. Fuses

    It does not have to be an IAY... So now you have choices. You can run you IAY with points or Pertronix, you may be able to install a vacuum advance on it, you may be able to find a different distributor with vacuum on it, you can do the Langdon's or a slant six conversion. Try the classifieds here.
  5. Fuses

    As far as I know, the Pertronix is merely a trigger system, replacing electronically what the points and condenser do in a conventional system. I don't think it has the capacity to advance or retard timing by itself. It relies on the advance system built into the distributor. The vacuum advance assists the centrifugal advance in adjusting timing based on the varying loads and speeds of the engine throughout it's RPM range, typical of what a car or truck engine would see. It'll run on centrifugal only but most people that have found failed vacuum units on their distributors and replaced or repaired them, have found the vehicles to run better and smoother after. That's the reason for suggesting one with a vacuum advance on it.
  6. Fuses

    The combine engine did not have a vacuum advance simply because the engine basically ran at two speeds, idle and wide open or governed speed. The centrifugal advance was all it needed. You may want to locate a distributor already set up for vacuum.
  7. Oil Pan and Differential Gasket Questions

    Permatex makes a sealer specifically for rear end grease, comes in a green colored tube. Silicone used as a sealer should be applied sparingly. Silicone as a gasket is applied differently and has a cure time before components are to be married together. Most of the silicone I've seen used by manufacturers has been black, apllied very sparingly. I personally avoid silicones if I can, prefer to use Aviation and sometimes the old fashioned green non-hardening Permatex in a tube.
  8. Some more electrical

    Suggest you show us how you have it wired, i.e. what's on each terminal of the solenoid and where do those wires go.
  9. I know what this is.....

    That solution will work. Don't forget your copper sealing washers.
  10. I know what this is.....

    If that block where you have the switch shoved through does not access those threaded ports, you can't use the switch in that location. You can get an adapter that will allow you to thread that switch into one of the ports and use the center hole as a fastening hole if needed, or not, and plumb it into any brake line you want.,
  11. 50' b2b rear axle removal

    The aluminum foil will hammer out . The center punch trick works fairly well. Those marks can also get hammered out over time. Adding some Locktite into the process will help it last longer.
  12. Connecting Rod Lock Washers

    Not wanting to start a debate over lubing or not lubing threads, I find older repair manuals leave a lot of details out on repair processes, assuming the mechanic has somewhat of an inking of what they're doing. New manuals on the newer engines may be more specific. The instructors back in the day had their own preferred methods, based on their experience and passed those onto those they taught. My thought is lubing the threads will give you a more consistent torque reading than dry threads that may have some corrosion, be a bit damaged or pitted or stretched and you end up with parts that are not held together well. Unless a manufacturer specifically said to NOT lube threads and undersides of fasteners, I would lube them. Engine oil has worked well for years for this purpose. If you're fussy, get the ARP lube. If the bolt won't hold together lubed, you don't want it in there anyway. Better to snap it off on assembly than when you have it running. As far as lock washers, I've seen them with, without, both on the same engine, rod caps that had castle nuts with cotter pins, main and rod caps that were safety wired. I've picked broken rod bolts out of pans where the nut was still attached. I haven't seen a lot of main bolts with lock washers but will admit I haven't seen everything yet.
  13. T5 oops

    Before you call Langdon's, do some measuring of the parts you do have. Does the bushing you have fit on the end of the transmission. Measure the diameter of the shaft as well as the length of it from the splines to the face of the trans as well as overall length of the shaft, the diameter of the part the throwout brg rides on as well as it's length and the diameter of that housing where it fits in the bell. Then call Langdon's. There may be alternative parts to make what you have fit or he can suggest a different disc you can purchase to make it work.
  14. Grease fitting question

    More likely 1/8 " pipe fittings, 3/8" wrench. if so, those are a tapered thread and should not bottom out. !/4 by 28 fittings will go to the ends of the threads and /or will bottom out against the hex part. of the fitting.
  15. Plus One ---- Ton

    Springs are supposed to have a certain amount of tension at a specific height. That said, every time the valves and seats are ground, that installed height changes as well as various differences in how the spring seats were machined in the head itself. They have been used to "adjust" spring tension as well as adjust installed height. If you were hardcore blueprinting the engine, there's a lot of time and money that could be spent in this area. most of which you'll never see or feel on a stock engine driven the way most of these will be.