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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!


About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W


  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Better term should have been emergency brake. I like the idea of a backup brake syst em, even if not as efficient as a vehicle's hydraulic system and I'm also sure most vehicle inspectors will expect to find one there as well. Parking brake cables can usually be activated in an emergency and will work to some extent, problem is they don't want to release when they are not used on a frequent and regular basis.
  2. I'd be extremely cautious about starting and running it in high gear with the clutch engaged and the rear wheels on the ground when the disc is still hung up. It could easily be the beginnings of an unpleasant adventure. Haven't seen the video but I'd try rocking the car back and forth in high gear with the clutch pedal depressed and engine off first.
  3. Swapping to the 727 will probably also mean swapping out the rear diff since you lose the park brake off the end of the trans. Now, there were some 727's that did come with a park brake on them. The last one I saw that way, I think was bolted to the back of an International 446 engine out of an RV chassis so the bolt pattern may be different, and it's a possibility they were used on Dodge powered RV's as well.
  4. You can probably do it with a single adapter fitting w/o line also. If it's in a tight spot and you need line, you may want to try the cupro/nickel line instead of the poly armour. Poly-armour line does not bend anywhere near as easily as the cupro nickel line.
  5. Kentucky Clutch has been used by any number of members here and has always received positive feedback. The red jeweled cap may or may not be hard to find. I'm not familiar with it. I do know that some of the older Allis Chalmers tractors 180, 185, 190, etc did use a domed red cap on their low oil pressure indicator light. That cap had external thread, maybe was about 1/2 " in diameter. Try an AGCO dealer if it sound like it would work.
  6. The differences in the frame measurements is because the frame starts to taper in from the front rear spring hangers forward. On a longer wheelbase, the point where it starts to taper in may be at a different location than my B3B. Frame narrows up 10 ".
  7. That's one of them and you can do a lot with a VOM also. The other major piece is the armature lathe, should the armature need turning.
  8. You can buy brushes, bushings and starter drives separately as needed. I'm not aware of a "kit". If the armature/ fields needs work, you probably won't have the tools/equipment to test, service or repair them so you may be best served finding a rebuilder.
  9. The dist. should have 2 adjustment locations. If you've used them both up, chances are the oil pump is indexed 1 tooth off. As for the leak, sounds like you need a replacement cover and/or pan.
  10. If the dots line up, with the dot on the cam gear either at the top or bottom, that is good, as long as the dot on the crank gear is where it's supposed to be. That means the cam and the crank are correctly timed. The camshaft then drives the oil pump[ which needs to be indexed to the cam so the drive slot for the dist drive locates the rotor in the correct position. At that point you need to have the engine at TDC and determine which cylinder is at TDC compression, # 1or #6 and install the dist accordingly. If it runs and the # 1 wire is at 7 o'clock or the #6 wire is at 1 o'clock, It's probably correct. If so, leave it alone.
  11. I think if you were to pull the crank gear off, you'd find a woodruff style key. That long slot has to be for the dampener and would take a square key. As far as the dots in the right place in the last pic, post #24, turn the crank 1 complete revolution and the dots will line up. Who knows where the dist rotor is pointing, hopefully at #6.
  12. Increasing caster will actually increase the steering effort to turn but it also helps the wheels want to come back to straight with less effort and stabilizes the system. Too little caster may have caused some tire scrubbing when turning, more likely the camber and toe may have been off a bit as well.
  13. Seeing as they go between the axle and the spring, thicker part of the wedge goes to the back. That should lean the kingpins back when the u bolts are snugged up.
  14. Top of the page you'll find a resourcees link, hit that, scroll down to dpetca, open scroll down below bright red truck, hit Pilots knowledge and scroll down. You'll find builders layouts with all kinds of dimensions. Near as I can tell, top of frame at rear is 24". Rear of frame has very little arc to it over the axle so you may need to C notch the frame to get adequate suspension movement. I dropped mine about 3" with a 8" Ford and have about 3" between the axle and bottom of frame. I will be notching mine. Ride height set according to tire sizes chosen and preferred stance , needed to get correct geometry for the MII, rear drop worked out to the 3 ""
  15. Maybe this sounds foolish but you and everyone responding is assuming it was flooded. Have you at least checked to see if it was getting fuel and was indeed flooded?
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