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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!

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About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

Converted

  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    The 10 plies on my daily run at 60, rated at 80. I'm not a fan of sidewall flex especially when towing. I used to tow a lot of farm equipment with it and I maxed the psi out when I was in the business. It doesn't get heavy loads now but the 60 psi helps a bit with the gas mileage. 45 makes the truck feel a bit squirrelly when cornering or with a load..
  2. Would it have been easier to put the filler on the other side of the truck?
  3. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    That only works if you have singles. Duals on the rear means the outside wheel is not contained and they can come apart when putting the wheel on the truck as well.. When I worked at a tire dealership back in the early 70's, we saw some of the split rims. Most tires were 1 and 2 piece ring style, tubeless front flotation tires on the logging trucks and had stopped servicing the split rims I think about '75. There may have been an OSHA warning sent out on them at that time. I seem to recall that most of those rims we dealt with were on school buses.
  4. Dave72dt

    Split Ring Tire Question

    Those wheels with the red and the extra plates on them are NOT the ones you want to use. Those are the split rims you want to avoid. There is no other reason for those plates bolted to the rim other than someone trying to convince themselves they were now safe to use. Split ring and split rim are often thought of as the same style rim. They are not. Years ago, 3/4 ton and up pickups often got a split ring as well, but they were always even number sizes and always had a tube. Tubeless were an option, starting with 16.5's and up, always with the .5. Get a nail in a tube type, tire goes flat right away. Whatever you do with those "new" tires, don't attempt tp put them on tubeless or on the old rims.
  5. Really deep first gear and 4th is I to 1, same as the 3 speed. Full synchro trans. Most of the time, swapping out the trans means swapping out the rear diff as well since the E brake goes away when OEE trans goes away.
  6. Dave72dt

    Repairing pilothouse fenders

    Complex shapes tend to have more resistance to visible weld shrinkage than those larger, flatter panels. Spending forever stitching 1/4s on and keeping weld shrinkage to a minimum more than makes up for the time you can spend stretching those welds back out. I've never used flux when oxy-wire welding. Controlling the puddle and the filler rod will get you a bead as long as material thickness, tip size, puddle size and rod diameter all work together. Very similar to tig and just like oxy welding, much more malleable than the mig as far as stretching the welds back out. On those flatter panels , constantly check for shrinkage distortion and stretch the welds back as soon as you find any.
  7. Leave the yoke in. Just make sure the trans is in park and fluid in trans.
  8. Dave72dt

    Repairing pilothouse fenders

    What did you use to set those rivets?
  9. Dave72dt

    How Much Should I Pay For A Decent Torque Wrench

    I stayed away from the beam type simply because getting accurate readings require a straight down look at the beam. Compare it to sitting in the passenger seat and glancing at the speedometer compared to behind the wheel reading. Spring type aren't that bad as long as you take the tension off after using it. Even if it's off a bit, at least all the nuts/bolts just tightened are at the same torque which is a reason why a torque wrench should be used in the first place. When I was in the business professionally, tightening head bolts that were at shoulder height or higher, pulling torques that were closer to 200 ft.lbs than 100, looking down on a beam style or from a step ladder were not good choices. I'm not sure you can do real accurate readings with a beam style bent over a fender either. You probably don't need the 200 $ plus wrenches for your occasional usage. The 40-50 $ spring type that you can set would be my choice.
  10. Dave72dt

    More starter problems..

    I suspect if you pull that spring back on the end the washer is broken, you'll find a set screw, At least you would on a Delco.
  11. Dave72dt

    My broken starter...

    Put a fresh bushing in the part when you get it. Those repair shops that couldn't or wouldn't find a housing for you should be able to check the armature for straightness Sometimes the armature gets bent when the nose cone breaks. Those noses break most often when the timing is off and the engine kicks back against the stater.
  12. Dave72dt

    Those that do interiors

    I ended up with a used Pfaff from a guy retiring from the business that did some auto, mostly boat and got a bunch of supplies in the deal. Walking foot, special foot for welting, boxes of staples, some hog rings, snaps for boat covers, etc. Haven't used it yet. Bought it with the intention of doing my own on the truck and finding someone else to do the interior at a price I could afford would be near impossible in my area. I don't know of anyone doing any auto work within 50 miles at least from me..
  13. Dave72dt

    shock absorbers for my 53 truck

    Have you checked dimensions on a front and rear to determine if both are the same? Measurements are usually center to center. Those Gabriels sound like they should work. Being a little short on the extended length does not concern me as much as being to long on the collapsed length. You're more likely to bottom the suspension out when driving than extending it to the max. Monroe does have a dimension chart available so you can do some hunting through that if you wish
  14. Dave72dt

    Droopy door handle

    Oops, been a while since I've worked on a door. Mine no longer has conventional handles or locks. Be nice to get the car done so I can get back to the truck.
  15. Dave72dt

    AMC 4.0L in a 39-47 Dodge/Plymouth

    Since it's already at a body shop, I wouldn't go any further than primer before you start fitting in the proposed drivetrain. I can only imagine the damage to fresh paint when trying to fit that drivetrain in.
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