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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!


About Dave72dt

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W


  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Check your hood center section at the front end of the side panel hinge section. They tend to crack at that point. If you have cracks, fix those before you fit the ornament. For some reason it may change the profile of the nose section and the ornament fitment may be off.
  2. The closer the shifter can be placed to the floor, the smaller the hole in the floor has to be and the shorter the shift handle can be. With a mostly flat floor in these trucks instead of a tunnel, you'll likely want that shifter moved up.
  3. I've got buckets out of a late 80' Mustang in mine, had to build my own seat mounts and will be removing the headrests since they get into the rear window area and look totally out of place and from the wrong era. Space between the seats will have a cushion and fold down arm rest built in.
  4. I would be looking for power coming out of either park light lead when the turn signal is on, park light jumper disconnected. Problem in either one of the lights or in one of the new sockets.
  5. Adding some choke to stop the popping would make me think you have a vacuum leak somewhere if it's happening when at idle. If it when you're trying to increase the rpms, it could easily be the timing. Get a light on it and set timing to spec. Check the timing at idle and also with some rpm added. The timing should advance with the increase in rpm.
  6. Something I'd suggest is printing off the tech sheets for the product you're spraying. It's going to include recommended spray pressures, nozzle size, reduction percentages, recommended reducer, flash times, surface prep, recoat times, cure times, spray pattern, number of coats and how to apply. Common equipment enamels usually don't have much UV protection built into them and cure slowly so adding a gloss hardener helps reduce cure time and color fade. Be aware also that reducers are designed to evap off at a specific rate flow within a specific temp range. That evap rate plays a role in how well the paint levels out after spraying and in how well it stays where it's placed. A solvent that evaps quickly may not give the paint enough time to self level resulting in a heavier orange peel. There are other things that can factor into it as well such as air pressure, air volume, how thick the paint is. From what I saw in the pic, I think you've got a combination of factors, all four of the ones I've mentioned. I tape a sheet of mask on the wall to check my pattern, make adjustments to the gun and/or material and recheck the pattern until it's right before aiming the gun at the project.
  7. The other place to easily look is under the "resource" tab in the banners of this forum. There's a lot of information in there as well as using the "search" button for frame swaps.
  8. You probably can as long as the disc is also the same diameter, dampening springs and hub has the same dia and offset. Remanned discs are available from rebuilders all over the country and make more sense to install than a maybe fit used disc. A rebuilder will be more able to tell you of a possible substitute than most of us can. I suspect most of the 218, 230 flathead 6's, at least through the Pilothouse years would be a viable source, Fluiddrive may/may not be the same.
  9. If those were stainless steel bolts, you can expect that. Relatively a common occurrence with stainless, a nut will spin on easily but start to bind on removal occasionally. Anti seize compound is almost a must. Do your mockup work with common steel bolts, then replace with the stainless on final assembly.
  10. If you are re ringing only, you want the ridge gone. If you're going to bore it, then leave a little. It won't matter if you damage rings or pistons. Beating them out with ridge remaining can sometimes break ring lands on the piston. New rings on the same piston won't travel any further in the bore than the old ones did. The difference is the new rings will have sharp edges and probably fit in the ring grooves tighter so the possibility of them coming up against the bottom of left over ridge and breaking new rings or ring lands on the piston exists. Most machinists will automatically bore to .030 over for a first time bore. Almost every engine will clean up at that size if it's salvageable. While many will clean at .020, you may find one cylinder that doesn't and you don't want a mismatched set if possible. Yes, it's been done as has grinding a rod bearing down an additional size. For assembly ease, don't mix and match.
  11. Where did you find 1 1/4 tubing? The smallest diameter exhaust tubing I could find was 1 1/2.
  12. I sprayed the color on a 48 Dodge 12-13 years ago in an acrylic enamel w/gloss hardener in the owner's shed. Bodywork was real rough and owner was tired of sanding and beating out dents, just wanted it in color. After the closing the estate, it's back out and still shiny so you don't necessarily need to bake it to make it look good. This time of year almost any shed or garage will get hot enough to imitate booth heat.
  13. Do you intend to spray the final color or just primer? The reason I ask is unless you intend to spray numerous vehicles or spray on a frequent basis, the cost of a high end gun for a one time deal doesn't make a lot of sense. Any number of kits are available in the 200 and under range that will give you a color gun and a primer gun, maybe even a touchup gun. You can spray primer through a color gun but it goes so much better through a primer gun. Unless you're a pro or have a trained eye, you probably won't the notice difference in application between the lower end and higher end guns.
  14. They wouldn't be hard to make either. Some strap metal, drill a couple holes, rubber cushion on the inside and a couple bolts.
  15. Mig or torches, either will work for welding in a repair section. Find a section of pipe the same diameter, cut the bad section out and weld in the new. I think the last one I did I used a section of 1 1/2"exhaust pipe, split it lengthwise since it was too large diameter, tacked it into position and then pulled the cut gap closed and welded that up, ground, bodyworked and painted. You could also shove a solid rod or smaller tube into the tailgate, plug weld that in, cut a strip of light gauge metal and wrap it around, weld, grind and finish. Mine has both top and bottom section rusted badly plus a twist in the main section from being used with only one chain. Rough life having served as a shop truck for a service station for many years, then several years hauling feed for a farm.
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