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wolk625

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About wolk625

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/25/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Omaha, NE
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Plymouth Deluxe Business Coupe

Converted

  • Location
    Warrensburg, MO
  • Interests
    Wrenching, racing

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  1. Thanks for the sources, definitely sounds like the easier route to go. I think I'll still call or email them regarding the specifics on their kits, like if they include the dome light and tank sending unit wiring, and what gauge they're using where. I might also just buy some extra grounding ribbons and start going to town strapping all body panels together.
  2. Hey guys, Been lurking for a while, and finally have some time to really give my car the attention it deserves. First up on my list to redo is to address the original wiring - although still mostly functional, I'd like to replace it all with some nice new braided wire before finishing off the interior, and was wondering if anyone else here has a ballpark idea of how much (length) of wire I'm looking at to order? I have the schematic from the service manual but it doesn't seem to mention length anywhere. Also, where are some critical areas where I should consider adding or replacing body grounding straps? Thanks in advance. (P11 business coupe, still original 6V)
  3. Reviving a pretty old thread here, but I just recently got some more time to work on the car and today - recently acquired Another set of fresh points (gapped to spec), scored a "donor" IGS distributer from a '47 Desoto (actually fits but the vacuum advance is in an annoying spot), fresh coil, fresh plugs, and I also bought an in-line spark plug test light to see what's really going on, and I noticed this - while cranking, in addition to the main "spark"/bigger flash I'm also seeing a smaller/dimmer flash at each one of the other plug's lobes? (this is directly at the plug on the engine, not on the coil wire) - so it looks like I'm getting interference from somewhere, maybe bleeding my spark's strength back and forth through some leak. The small wires to the points were in better shape on the Desoto dist so I tried swapping those over, but I'm still seeing this strange spark behavior. Does this sound like any particular phenomenon? I'm starting to wonder if my plug wires are chaffing in the "wire loom manifold"(metal piece that organizes the wires from the distributor to the plugs)..
  4. Apologies for a confusing first post - my car has an IGS-4111-1 distributor. This car was a normally functioning, running and driving car for the majority of the summer, but just how these things always seems to go I let it sit for about 2 weeks and suddenly this problem came up. I replaced the previously working cap with another IGS-compatible distributor cap and rotor on it (tried an Autolite pair first, then Borg Warner), also minding to align the notch in the cap with the slot in the distributor, but am still experiencing the same symptom.
  5. If you canget me the prefix lettering on the red tag on the dizzy body and the remaining numbers example IGS4102C is th eone on my 39 Desoto then i can lookinmy autolite catalog and tell which is the correct cap for your dizzy.

     

    Rich Hartung

    desoto1939@aol.com

  6. So I've been battling various distributor problems for a while, most I've been able to adjust out or rebuild, but this one has me stuck - the rest of my ignition parts seem to work fine, have spark from the coil into the cap, but can't seem to get spark out of the cap after 3 different cap and rotor changes.. (Latest parts are BWD C123 and D103) I've tested that the cap is getting current through the center, the center is touching the rotor, and the rotor is coming in very close proximity to the outer nodes. Is there another fault that I might be overlooking on the distributer side of things, like the rotor grounding/not grounding, distributer itself having poor ground, etc? Also considering a full distributor replacement from the previous problems, are there any good aftermarket replacements that fit a 218? As always, thanks ahead of time
  7. I also am going through the brakes on my 41 Plymouth, and what I have found - I tried the rebuild route on all of my wheel cylinders (seals, springs, etc), tried honing them to the best of my abilities, but the pistons themselves were just too far corroded and pitted, and just leaked/didn't work. For the fronts, I got really lucky and figured out there's a really close NAPA equivalent (bottom row on the first page organized by photo in their "brake bible", don't recall the exact part numbers at present but can try to find them). Only thing different on them is the inlet port points straight out/down rather than angled to the side like on the originals, so I had to be careful with my flexible hose routing. However... What I'm still stuck on sourcing is a compatible set of new cylinders for the rears, which I couldn't find in their book. What I noticed for trends is that the rears for this year range seem to have an uncommon layout for mounting bolt location vs the bleeder port location, I could find quite a few that measured almost the same but would be flipped upside down for mounting.. Yes, I know the original part number is a 678323/678324, with OLD equivalent being the EIS 6127/6128, which seem to be unobtanium now, what I'm hoping to find is something I can order/buy new like I did for the fronts. If anyone knows a lead on something that'll fit back there I'm all ears.
  8. Since I've gotten the '41 fully streetable, I've noticed that while rolling at a pretty good pace and under throttle/load, there's a pretty intense/loud vibration sometimes, but when I let off throttle and coast it goes away. Is this most likely bad u-joints on the driveshaft, or should I be looking elsewhere?
  9. wolk625

    no fuel

    Might as well share my story on this - My car was running "okay" for a while last year, when suddenly it quit getting fuel. I had a new fuel pump, new rubber line, and the tank I had cleaned out myself, but I had an especially hard time getting the pickup tube in the tank clear when I was working on it. I had to take it to a radiator shop to remove it and clear it out on a bench and reinstall the tube. While I had the tank out and had the rubber flex line unhooked from the pump, I could easily blow air through the line, so it seemed fine at the time. Fast forward to losing fuel, and I was freaking out because I thought all of my stuff was fresh. I started back-tracing, and found that my rubber flex line had become incredibly clogged with a wad of rust flecks right at the fitting. The joint at the fittings internally had enough of a lip on it for all of the junk to get snagged on and build a big clot. Pretty sure all of these flakes came from my line, so I just put on a new fuel line all the way front to back just for precaution, no issues since May or may not be the same as your issue, but I would just start working your way back from the pump and see what you find
  10. Finally got a chance to put hands on the car again today, I decided to try just swapping out the condenser with the original one I pulled out, and sure enough, all of my issues went away... So my new condenser I bought was junk. It was this "BWD" brand, only thing anyone around here had in stock. Out of curiosity, is there another easy to obtain brand of condenser that anyone can vouch for?
  11. There were some bare chunks on the flexible leads down in there. I took a donation from a similar sized speaker wire and dropped those in. It's firing pretty consistently at idle but under load I'm getting a lot of popping. Probably carb stuff? I'll play with it more after the holiday weekend
  12. just for the update, yes, runs (ran as of now, different thread explains haha) idles in driveway at about 150-160, driving in this 95ish weather stays around 180. Pretty much right where I was hoping to be, but now some other fun gremlins have got me sidelined again.
  13. Back again, So last week, I was originally asking about a months-old overheating problem, only to find that my distributer was off-the-map in timing. After setting it somewhere in the neighborhood of correct, it ran great/cool, but raced in idle - traced it up and the idle adjustment screw was snapped off - extracted it and it idled great too. Drove it pretty much every day this last week with a mile wide grin. But of course, maybe being dumb, yesterday I felt that it still wasn't tuned right - it was tough to start, stalled after letting off on a long straight. I had assumed that maybe the distributor had slipped back a little out of time, since that was the last thing I had adjusted. So I grabbed my timing light and went back at it - it was a little off, but not wildly out of time like before. After centering it to my line, it ran okay for about 2 minutes, then started to sound like a heavily cammed v8.. Wouldn't take throttle, and eventually would hardly stay running. In an attempt to diagnose, I turned on the timing light again and saw large gaps in time of no flash, then a few flashes, then no flash. I moved the pickup lead from wire to wire and saw the same thing. I then moved it to the two coil wires (signal and output), expecting to see very fast flashes, and again saw rapid flashing, no flash, intermittent flash, no flash, etc. uuuuug...... Where do I need to start in my diagnosis to find this problem? Parts that are new - coil, dist cap, rotor, points, condenser, plug/coil wires, spark plugs. Other factors that may have played a part - this problem started happening right before an unexpected rain storm came through, and once I started getting soaked I pushed it back in the garage as fast as I could. I'm pretty confident that no water got in the engine bay, but I'm wondering if the air being soup may have played a factor. The distributor shaft I noticed has quite a bit of free play, but I would think that it would just drive to one side of the slop, and I'd be able to account for it in timing. Do I just buy a new one and cross my fingers, or will patience prevail? Anyways, your favorite antique mopar millenial thanks you for all your help. Any suggestions are welcome.
  14. So I think this is the root cause of all this.. Thanks a million for that chalk trick, I would've never thought of that in a million years. My timing at idle was off the scale, and when I did bring my idle back to roughly center, the idle speed was racing. I went to go turn it down on the screw and noticed the idle adjust screw head was snapped off, the throttle linkage had about 5 washers shoved on it and the arm is all bent up. So I think some dingus in the past snapped the screw off at some weird idle, tried pulling the arm to extract it, bent it, then tried washers on the linkage to account for the bend, then when that didn't work, they gave the distributor a twist to bring idle down.? At least that's what my mind thinks what happened haha
  15. As for the timing, this is what I'm working with. I dotted it with a sharpie in an attempt to see what's going on down there, but to no avail.. Does this look like a stock pulley or aftermarket? I can't figure out a zero point to work from - none of the lines are really any different than the others. Ideas? <a href="http://s89.photobucket.com/user/wolkinator/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160622_192419.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k214/wolkinator/Mobile%20Uploads/20160622_192419.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160622_192419.jpg"/></a>
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