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Jocko_51_B3B

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Everything posted by Jocko_51_B3B

  1. The problem turned out to be a tiny oil leak from the brass fitting on the bottom of the oil canister. The rear main seal is OK. Re-did the oil canister brass fittings and no more oil leak. I found out it's possible to reach five out of six rear main seal bolts from under the truck. The top one I can't reach but for good measure I tightened down on the five.
  2. I agree. Just wondering if it could cause the pump to fail. It seems unlikely but who knows?
  3. It's probably Chinese so no wonder. It worked for a couple of hours of run time, then stopped pumping. Anyway, I took it apart and compared it with a good old American fuel pump I had on the shelf. As best I can tell the inlet and outlet valves are working on both pumps. The difference I noticed is with a small ball bearing lodged in the fuel channel above the glass bowl. The good old American made pump has the bearing firmly seated in place. The new one had a smaller one but it was loose and finally disappeared as I was fooling with it. It seems to have either fallen out or it is lodged in the inlet channel somewhere. Apparently the bearings are put there from the manufacturer to make sure fuel flows from the fuel line into the glass bowl and out through the screen to the diaphragm area. I'm wondering if that loose or missing bearing in the Chinese pump could cause the pump to stop working altogether. What if I plug up the bearing location with JB Weld? I hate to spend another $95 for pump. Here's the good old American pump with the ball bearing... The Chinese pump's bearing is missing...?
  4. I placed the tape on the threads only as you mentioned. I agree about the crank. I'm having the truck put up on a lift this week to double check the area where the seal rides.
  5. These are the oil leaks I've had so far and what I did to stop them. Here's my list so far... 1. Copper gasket under T-handle on bypass oil filter canister. This one was the messiest. Started the engine. The gasket was bad and it blew oil all over the place. Fix was easy. Replaced the gasket. 2. Oil pan cork gasket. Small puddle kept forming on the floor. Oil pan bolts weren't tight enough. Tightened all the bolts. 3. Brass fittings on bypass oil filter lines. Again, small puddle on the floor. This one was easy to spot but a small pain to fix. Removed the filter canister and lines. Wrapped the brass fitting threads with three or four turns of yellow teflon tape. The yellow tape is hydrocarbon resistant. White teflon tape won't last. That's why the fittings leaked in the first place. 4. Oil pan rear felt seal. The felt gasket gets soaked and leaks a few drops when the engine is running. I might live with this one for a while. The only fix I can see is to remove the oil pan and replace the felt gasket. For now I'll just check my oil level frequently.
  6. My '51 B3B engine seems to be running pretty well. I have right around 115 PSI dry compression pressure and 120 psi wet with only 2 or 3 psi variation between cylinders, but I want to check engine timing, manifold vacuum, dwell, and valve tappet clearances. I assume the engine should be at a specific idle RPM when doing these checks. Is there an idle RPM spec for Mopar flatheads when making these checks and adjustments? I would guess around 500 RPM but I'm just not sure. I don't see a spec in the service manual.
  7. After thinking about it and reading other opinions I believe I did the right thing finally. 1. Metal bead edge up (I think it looks good that way. First photo.) 2. Sweeper clips squeezed around fabric edge, not the metal bead. (Second and Third photos.) 3. Fuzzy side toward the glass.
  8. I ended up using 5/32 diameter rivets which fit perfectly. 1/8 would probably work too. The factory placed the heads of the original rivet on the outside of the frame but I couldn't find a rivet setting tool narrow enough to fit inside the frame channel so I placed the rivet heads inside the frame and clinched the rivets down on the outside. From what I can tell this should be OK. I was concerned that the clinched rivet ends would interfere with the rubber seal when opening and closing the vent window, but they are pressed down far enough that I don't think that will be a problem.
  9. I much appreciate the suggested solutions from JBNeal and ggdad and ggdad's rivet offer. It looks like tubular rivets will probably work best but I checked my own stash first and actually found a small bag of 1/8 x 3/8 long tubular rivets which look like they will work. I also found a tool for setting the rivets! I haven't used it for so long I forgot I had it. So for now I should be OK. Thanks again to both you guys for some needed direction!
  10. My passenger side vent window has a broken swivel post. I have a replacement cadmium post (in the picture), but neither the black frame nor the post has threaded holes so I'm trying to figure out how to secure the post to the glass frame.. By checking the driver side vent window, it looks like the posts were riveted in with the rivet heads on the outside of the frame. The rivet heads are very thin to avoid interfering with the rubber seal when closing the window. Has anyone had to do a post replacement? If so, how did you attach it to the frame? Passenger Side Showing New Post and Unthreaded Holes Driver Side Showing Rivet Head
  11. Looking at the sweeper clips and weatherstrip for the door windows, how should the clips and weatherstrip be installed? Q1: I see the four holes in the door for the clips, but should the jaws of the clips open upward or open downward? (I'm guessing upward.) Q2: When the weatherstrip is installed, should the cloth edge of the weatherstrip be UP and the black painted edge be DOWN or should the black painted edge be UP and the cloth edge be DOWN? In other words, which edge of the weatherstrip is right side up? (I'm guessing the cloth edge should be UP.) If I'm wrong please straighten me out. The original Dodge parts manual illustrations aren't clear and the replacement parts I bought didn't come with any install instructions.
  12. bkahler, Sorry I didn't fully answer your question. I bought mine from Roberts three or four years ago.
  13. Merle, you're correct. I scratched around on the surface of the seal and twisted the rubber a little bit and I was able to spot the flanges of the sleeves embedded just below the surface of the rubber. The sleeve in the second hole at the top end of the seal was embedded the deepest (approx. 1/8 inch) and was the hardest to see. Thanks again. HOLE AT THE TOP END OF THE SEAL SECOND HOLE FROM TOP END OF SEAL WAS EMBEDDED THE DEEPEST HOLE AT BOTTOM END OF SEAL
  14. Fortunately I found (and kept) one brass sleeve when I took the vent windows apart. I forgot how it came out so now I'm wondering about its purpose and location. If someone has a picture showing the exact place to installed them would help clear up the mystery.
  15. I did not know that the fuel gauge needs to be grounded (should have read the service manual). My gauge quit working a while ago and I finally got around to troubleshooting it. I checked the fuel sending unit rheostat but got zero ohms in "F" position and 135 ohms in "E" which are OK. I checked the gauge and got a reading of 26 ohms across the two terminals which is good. Then I saw the comment above about grounding the gauge. When I grounded it the gauge came back to life. I added a separate ground wire for insurance to keep this from happening again. I was not able to find a fuel gage from the Pilothouse vendors I normally use. I wonder if they are still available.
  16. JB, I ordered the Auveco 17264 copper gasket you recommended, the one that seals the T-handle at the top cover of the oil canister. It worked great and fits perfectly. No more leak and I still have nine left! Here's where I found them: https://autobodyclips.com/product/17264/ Jocko
  17. Very interesting thread. My B3B also has the Deluxe canister. Until I took it apart I didn't realize the T-handle has a built in bypass check valve or that it needs a soft copper washer under the T-handle! What brought me to this thread in the first place was a problem that occurred with oil leaking out around the rubber gasket under the lid of the canister and also past the copper gasket on the T-handle. I was running the engine in the garage when the leak happened and and I lost about a quart on the floor before I shut it down. My first thought was that the canister might be over-pressurized by a blocked outlet line. I checked the line and fittings and they were clear. Then I thought that the pressure relief might be stuck closed possibly shutting off return flow to the oil pan, but the spring and plunger are well oiled and move freely. My oil pressure is a steady 40 psi which tells me the relief valve works correctly. I kind of doubt the rubber gasket was pinched but I'll double check that when I put it back together. I used a #0 phillips and some carb cleaner to clean the bypass check valve in the handle. Some black stuff came out but it moves OK and the spring action is good. The copper gasket looks to me like it separated into two parts as seen in the last photo. I'm not sure if the copper "ring" that is still wrapped around the T-handle is a separate part (and meant to be there) or is just a piece of the copper gasket that split off. If anyone knows, please add a comment. Maybe a generic gasket from the hardware store will fix the leak at the handle. Thanks for an interesting thread.
  18. I opted for the original style spark plug wires on my B3B. What makes me question them is how loosely they fit onto the spark plugs. I've tried crimping them this way and that way with a plier but as soon as I push them back onto the plugs they wiggle around just like before. Is this normal? Shouldn't good plug wires snap down and fit tightly? In case I decide to try different wires, has anyone had really good luck with another brand?
  19. I noticed a very small leak from the base of the oil pan dip stick support plate (or whatever it's called). To repair it I thought of melting a bronze brazing rod around the edge of the plate on the outside of the pan. But I also noticed a raised stamped bead on the inside of the pan where the plate is mounted. I'm wondering if that raised bead makes room for a gasket that was put in place before the support plate was spot welded into place. If I braze the outside edge the heat would probably destroy any gasket that might be sandwiched under the bead. Brazing would stop the leak, but the disadvantage of brazing is it would change the stock appearance of the oil pan. Then again, maybe there is a better solution. I just don't know what it might be. I would rather put up with a very small leak than try drilling out the eight spot welds just to replace a gasket that might not even be there. Has anyone ever removed this bracket? What's behind it if you have? Is there a good solution to a leak at this location?
  20. Tom, Out of interest and to further my understanding, how exactly did you connect the RED and BLACK leads to the coil? Jocko
  21. After doing some looking into it, there seems to be some doubt and confusion about how to hook up a dwell meter to a 6V positive ground system. That was true for me too. I had bought a used dwell meter on eBay a long time ago but only last week decided to try it out on my B3B. I searched around for how to hook up the red and black leads to a 6 Volt positive ground electrical system but I kept reading answers like "just reverse the leads" without understanding anything about the connection or why the leads need to be reversed. So I tried to figure it out based on common sense (which isn't always trustworthy I know) and then hoped to find explicit confirmation somewhere as to whether I was right or wrong. After staring at the circuit, drawing pictures, and scratching my head for a while I came up with this: RED lead must go to BATTERY POSITIVE BLACK lead must go to POSITIVE TERMINAL OF THE COIL (the coil terminal that has the wire connected to the distributor.) If I'm wrong can someone please correct me. But earlier today I found a comment by busycoupe in the following p15-d24 thread that backs me up: If you don't care how something works but only care about making something work by following step by step instructions, then the following might not interest you. For me, I like knowing the "why" (if possible) not just the "how to". True understanding goes a long way IMO. Let me know if my understanding below is flawed. That's how we all learn. My logic was that the RED lead must go to the most positive point in the circuit (which is BATTERY POSITIVE) just because RED usually means positive. The BLACK lead must go to the most negative possible point that can provide an ON-OFF signal for the meter to interpret as dwell which must be the POSITIVE terminal of the coil because that is where the coil connects to the points. It seems ironic that the POSITIVE terminal of the coil actually gets hit with a large NEGATIVE spike when the points open but that's what I think happens. As I see it, when the points close electron flow goes out from the (-) terminal of the battery into the (-) terminal of the coil, through the coil, out the (+) terminal of the coil, through the closed points, and finally to positive ground back to battery positive. But when the points open, electron flow through the coil cannot stop immediately because the magnetic field in the coil primary takes time to collapse. So for an instant the electrons must keep flowing out of the (+) coil terminal and continue piling onto the condenser causing it to spike highly negative until the points close again. Somewhere I read that in later 12V systems the condenser voltage can go as high as 600 Volts. Since this is electron flow, the condenser voltage must go hundreds of volts negative.
  22. Does the parts manual specify the thickness somewhere? I can't find a reference to 1/16 or 3/32 in mine.
  23. bkahler, My parts book doesn't say anything about the seal thickness so I'll go with 3/32" thick neoprene as you suggest instead of the 1/16. 1/16 was just a guess on my part. A 3' x3' sheet should be perfect. Also, I don't think it would make sense for it to be proud either so I'll keep it just below the surface. Thanks to all for the replies. Jocko
  24. As far as I can tell these L seals aren't being reproduced. I'm considering buying a 3' x 3' sheet of neoprene 1/16" thick, tracing the seals out, cutting them, and punching out the seven bolt holes. I'm curious about how others have handled this. The cost for the rubber (enough for both fenders) is about $20.
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