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About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8


  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

Recent Profile Visitors

1,158 profile views
  1. ggdad1951, Were headliners all the same color regardless of cab color? My headliner was missing when I bought the truck.
  2. I have a '51 B3B and I'd like to repaint my visor mounting brackets in the original factory color. Were all Pilothouse visor mounting brackets always the same color (as in the photo) from the factory regardless of cab color? Or, were they matched to the cab color? Or, were they left unpainted?
  3. Was the cable loom painted cab color, black, or something else from the factory? I didn't see it listed in Bunn's book.
  4. I found the leak. The engine has been re-sleeved and there is a leak coming from near the bottom of the #4 cylinder sleeve. So for now I'll disassemble the engine and take it back to the rebuilder. I should have pressure checked the block immediately after the rebuild. Live and learn. Hopefully the block can be repaired. If not, then the search for a replacement block begins.
  5. I applied 5 psi air pressure to the coolant system of my 218 and the pressure leaked down to zero after 40 minutes. So OK, I know there's a leak somewhere, but what is considered an acceptable leak down rate? Zero? Is there a rule of thumb about this? Meanwhile I'll keep looking, listening, and spraying soapy water on bolt heads etc. If I still can't find a leak, I'll fill it with water and check for leaks that way. Thanks.
  6. Should Aviation Gasket Maker be used to seal head bolt threads even though it lacks PTFE? Also, the previous post mentions using head bolt washers under head bolts. But most of the engine photos I've seen don't show washers under the head bolts. Has anyone used them under head bolts?
  7. They just delivered a new "Best" brand head gasket. So my plan (at the moment) is to use the "Best" head gasket with Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant. I'll torque the head bolts to the high end of spec and then re-torque them with the engine hot. As far as the head bolt threads go, I'll use Aviation Gasket Maker again since the bolts are already smeared up with it. When it's all finished I'll pressure test the block and drain a little oil from the oil pan to make sure no coolant found it way down below. As far as the three bolts that surround the welch plug on the front of the engine are concerned, I'm going to try using Permatex Ultra Black (which hardens up) since these bolts don't need to be re-torqued like the head bolts do. (I also ordered a new set of "Best" timing cover gaskets because I like quality of the "Best" head gasket.) I'm wondering if it's necessary to smear up the timing cover gaskets with grease - just for good measure as I've seen other forum contributors do.
  8. Looking for suggestions for a really good head bolt thread sealant. I'm considering the following Permatex products: 1. Aviation Form a Gasket 2. Pipe Joint Compound 3. Indian Head Thread Sealant 4. Ultra Black Gasket Maker Other ideas that might be better?
  9. It looks like white lithium grease which is good for high temperatures. I'll give that a try.
  10. Don, What type of grease did you use on your timing cover and backing plate gaskets? The grease looks white in color.
  11. I'm going to order a couple of Best brand head gaskets. I have a couple of related questions which someone might be able to answer: 1. Since flathead 6's have unpressurized coolant systems, is it common practice to pressure test the cooling system after a rebuild? If so, what pressure would be adequate and for how long? The shop manual doesn't say. 2. What is the best sealant for sealing bolt threads? I'm considering red, gray, or black Permatex gasket sealant but I'm really not sure which would be best. I've tried aviation gasket maker on the timing cover bolt threads but when I applied 10 psi to the cooling system the ones that penetrate the water jacket leaked.
  12. Here are what mine look like. From their appearance, I think they are original.
  13. I had my frame blasted to bare metal with Dupont's staurolite product and then spray painted with an Akzo Nobel semi-gloss epoxy. Looks great.
  14. Jeff, I had never heard of Best head gaskets until I started this thread, but I will definitely give them a try based on your recommendation. I checked the Best website and I like their emphasis on "Made in the USA". For now I'm not sure who made my current head gasket, but I do have a question regarding head gaskets in general. Suppose a head gasket blows. I haven't seen that happen in my own experience but I imagine that a blowout in a flathead six head gasket can only open a path for coolant to flow into a combustion chamber. Since there are no oil passages between the block and the head, I see no other possibility except for coolant to get into a combustion chamber. So how does coolant get from a combustion chamber into the oil pan? If the engine is running wouldn't any leaked coolant be expelled in the exhaust? Or can it slowly seep into a combustion chamber and somehow leak past the rings when the engine is turned off? Thanks for the advice about Best. Jocko
  15. The brass and steel versions of the expansion plugs are made here in the US (I believe) by Dorman. Dorman is a well known and reputable company. On the other hand, I'm careful about buying parts and tools made in China. I'll gladly pay two or three times (or even more) for a quality part made in the USA that won't fail. So, as usual, Caveat Emptor. If anyone knows another source for the brass expansion plugs, pleas let the forum know.
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