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Jocko_51_B3B

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About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8

Converted

  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

Recent Profile Visitors

754 profile views
  1. Jocko_51_B3B

    Glass Questions

    Thanks to Merle for bringing my attention to glass setting tape in the first place. Thanks to Plymouthy for mentioning the 1/16 thickness dimension. Now I feel confident enough to move forward with the side and vent glass work. I also found a link with two excellent tape installation videos at the bottom of the linked page: https://glass4classics.com.au/product/automotive-glass-setting-tape/
  2. Jocko_51_B3B

    Glass Questions

    Merle, Thanks, I didn't know about glass setting tape. From what you said, I won't expect this glass work to be especially easy and I might end up taking it to a glass shop too. But I'll give it a try anyway after the steel parts are painted. If it's a big problem, then to the shop it all goes!
  3. Jocko_51_B3B

    Rear Brake Cylinder Brake Line Fittings

    I ordered a couple of Dorman 788-516D adapters from O'Reilly's, but there are a couple of problems with them. The male thread pitch on the Dormans is correct at 20 t.p.i., but the thread O.D. is 1/2'' instead of 7/16" which is too large for the tapped hole in the rear brake cylinders. Also, the hex nut is too large to fit through the rear backing plate. The original fitting's hex nut fits a 5/8" wrench. If the hex nut is larger than 5/8", then the fitting will interfere with the backing plate. The older fittings in the photos (my originals) are really what's needed, but finding new ones is turning out to be hard if not impossible. The closest I've found are Edelman 265400 which have the correct male and female threads, but again, the hex nut is too large for the backing plate hole. Dorman male thread diameter too large. Dorman hex is too large to fit through backing plate.
  4. Jocko_51_B3B

    Glass Questions

    I haven't done any work to my vent windows or driver and passenger glass yet so before I take everything apart, I want to post some questions that some of you guys who have done this work before can answer. Q1. I'm wondering how the window sweeper gets installed. I bought an 8 foot piece of it from Roberts (T66B). DCM has it in stock too RW-175), but the parts manual picture on page 492 doesn't use the term "window sweeper" anywhere so I'm not exactly sure where it goes or what holds it in place? Q2. How is the steel channel (23-09-52) that fits along the bottom of the side window glass cushioned from the glass? My originals look like a rubber packing or filler of some kind is wedged in between the glass and the channel. Is there a source for this filler? Q3. What cushions the vent window glass from the frame (23-64-49)? My vent windows have a rubber filler material between the frame and the glass. Is there a source for that? Q4. There's also a rubber filler material between the division bar (23-64-6) and the side glass. Is there a source for this stuff too?
  5. Anyone positively know of a source for these adapters? Asking around at auto parts stores is a waste of time. The ones I have from my old cylinders are probably reusable, but I would like to replace them with new ones if I can locate a source.
  6. Jocko_51_B3B

    Oil Pan Installation

    Installing the pan was easy in my case because I had the engine on a stand and had it turned upside down. Per the instructions, I did not trim the end gaskets at all even though they stuck out about 1/4 inch on both ends. I put a bead of Permatex Ultra Black on the gaskets where they met and spread a light coat of grease along the edge of the block where the side gaskets seat so it would be easy to remove the pan later if I need to do that. Then I just lowered the pan into place, dropped bolts into the corners, adjusted the gaskets a little, and then dropped the rest of the bolts into place. After that, it was just a matter of tightening the bolts down gradually alternating from side to side starting in the middle and going around several times. Even though the end gaskets stuck out 1/4 inch on both ends, they seem to have compressed down just fine.
  7. Jocko_51_B3B

    A Nice Dodge Taillight Solution

    The Dodge Pilothouse part vendors are a good resource. I've dealt with all of them at one time or another (mainly DCM, Roberts, and VPW). But once in a while it isn't a bad thing to "think outside the box" even if it means sacrificing a bit of originality or to get a better price. Although VPW doesn't focus on Pilothouse trucks, their customer service is great. The other guys are good too. What I like about DCM is that they always post a photo of any part they sell online.
  8. Jocko_51_B3B

    A Nice Dodge Taillight Solution

    You bring up a good point. The good news is that the wires have some room. They aren't pinched. I'm going to add one or two layers of heat shrink tubing right where the wires pass through the hole. Hopefully, that will prevent a short.
  9. Someone (I apologize for not being able to give credit.) on one of the threads recommended GROTE as a good make of taillight so I bought one for each side of my B3B. The driver side light has the clear license plate window and the passenger side does not. These are nice lights and I couldn't be more pleased. They are well built, appear to be waterproof, and both come with a bulb and a two wire pigtail. The pigtail runs through a waterproof grommet. The mounting studs fit the holes in my reproduction license plate holders perfectly. Best of all, they look good and cost about 1/5 the cost of the licensed reproductions. The only two things I'm going to change is replace the 12V bulb with a 6V and then (maybe) stencil the word "Dodge" on the plastic lens. https://www.grote.com/products/50882-4-steel-two-stud-mount-stoptailturn-lamp-red/ (with license plate window) https://www.grote.com/products/50892-4-steel-two-stud-mount-stoptailturn-lamp-red/ (without license plate window)
  10. Jocko_51_B3B

    Oil Pan Installation

    Is it a good idea to trim some cork from the ends of the front and rear gaskets to make them compress easier? Mine stick up a full 1/4 inch at both ends when installed which seems like a lot to compress. I'm thinking of trimming them down so only 1/8 inch protrudes above the bolt flanges.
  11. Jocko_51_B3B

    Oil Pan Installation

    The bolt holes in my oil pan were slightly bowed out from too much torque applied by a previous owner. I fixed that by hammering the holes flat again with a ball peen hammer and my vice. I have a set of new cork gaskets. The bolt holes look flat now and I'm ready to install the pan, but the shop manual doesn't mention using sealant when installing new oil pan gaskets. Nor does it say anything about how much to tighten the bolts or in what sequence. One YouTube guy used Permatex Black on both sides of cork gaskets, but he was working on a newer engine. I know that the front and rear curved cork gaskets have to stick up 1/8 to 1/4 inch at each end according to the manual, but 1/4 inch sounds like a lot. Any tips regarding sealant, adhesive, bolt torque, or anything else about pan installation would be very helpful.
  12. Jocko_51_B3B

    Turn Signals Made in America?

    Good to know that LEDs will work too. I don't like the quality of the Dodge reproduction taillights that are available, so I ordered a couple of non-original Grote brand taillights from Amazon. I'll have to change the bulb for 6V. I picked these out because Grote has a good name and because these taillights have 2" mounting studs that will fit the reproduction license plate holders. https://www.grote.com/products/50882-4-steel-two-stud-mount-stoptailturn-lamp-red/ (with license plate window) https://www.grote.com/products/50892-4-steel-two-stud-mount-stoptailturn-lamp-red/ (without license plate window)
  13. Jocko_51_B3B

    Turn Signals Made in America?

    I spoke to Truck-Lite today and the engineer I spoke to was helpful enough to send me several pages of wiring diagrams including how to wire up a Signal Stat 900 for a 6V positive ground system. I'll try to post them when I get a few minutes. According to him, the 900 will work with 6 or 12 Volts, but the indicator light will be a bit dim if not changed to a 6V bulb. The engineer recommended a GE51 bulb or equivalent for a 6V system. The 900 is made in Mexico. The price on Amazon is around $41 which isn't bad if it's a good unit. The reviews are good except for one guy who complained that the 900 won't work with LED lights and another who complained (and I see his point) that his unit did not come with instructions.
  14. Jocko_51_B3B

    Turn Signals Made in America?

    The new Signal Stat 900s look OK. They seem to have good reviews. (Boy I hope they're not from China.) Now I need to find out if they work with a 6V positive ground system. I called Truck-Lite but the guy I spoke to wasn't sure. Waiting for a return phone call.
  15. I want to mount a turn-signal switch on my steering column. Are any brands made in America? I want to avoid Chinese sourced parts like the plague because I'm tired of wasting my money on junk. I might take a chance on Taiwan though if I can find one.
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