Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8


  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

Recent Profile Visitors

551 profile views
  1. Jocko_51_B3B

    Crank Pulley Install Question

    Making a tool to press on the pulley (or hub) looks like a good way to go. Two questions: 1. What diameter threaded stock was used to make the tool? It looks to me like 1 1/8 is close but I want to be sure before I order the stock. 2. How do you prevent the crank from turning as the pulley (or hub) is being pressed on? (I thought about heating the pulley as a previous post suggests, but I'm concerned about how that might affect the timing cover seal.)
  2. Jocko_51_B3B

    Door stays

    I decided to fabricate a clip myself using .042 thick spring steel (1/4 in. wide) from McMaster-Carr. The .062 material seems too thick to me. I asked M-C about getting a foot or two of sample material (which they wouldn't do), but they did something even better; I had to buy the whole 25 ft roll but M-C promised to take back what I didn't use and refund the money for the returned part of the coil. Can't beat that. Trying to find a shop to make the clips just sounds too hard. Most shops want big jobs. Anyway, here are a few pictures to show my approach. I drew up a simple schematic of the clip with my best guess as to the correct dimensions of the clip. The end result isn't perfect, but I think it will be close enough to hold the door open and stop it from swinging too far.
  3. Jocko_51_B3B

    My new project: 1951 Dodge B3B 5-Window

    You found lots of 16" 5x4.5 Dodge wheels on Craigslist? I don't need any wheels, but which city are you finding them in. I thought they were rather hard to find. Also, original hub caps do come up on eBay now and then, but the trick is finding all four in good condition. Reproductions are available for about $75 each. Good Luck with your new truck. It looks good. Hope you stay original!
  4. Jocko_51_B3B

    Tappet Adjustment Cold

    The cold adjustment was just to get the tappets "in the ballpark". I'll re-do them hot once it's running.
  5. Jocko_51_B3B

    Tappet Adjustment Cold

    I was fortunate to not have the oil pan mounted and my engine was still on a stand. All I did was turn the engine upside down and rotate the crankshaft until each cam lobe was pointing away from its tappet. Then I adjusted each of the gaps. Should have thought of this to begin with.
  6. Jocko_51_B3B

    Crank Pulley Install Question

    From Dodgeb4ya's pictures it looks like the bigger Dodge flatheads had the pulley bolting on to a hub (the part with the six tapped holes), but the smaller engines (like my 218) don't have a hub. Instead, the pulley is directly keyed to the crankshaft. Am I right about this?
  7. Jocko_51_B3B

    Crank Pulley Install Question

    Dodgeb4ya, I see that your B3D engine is bigger than my B3B 218. My 218 only came with a pulley on the crankshaft. Yours has a much heavier looking flange with six tapped holes. Why the difference? I'm just interested, that's all. Thanks. And thanks to all who replied to my original post. When my new pulley arrives, I'll rig up a tool to press it on properly.
  8. Some PO beat on my crank pulley with a hammer so I'm ordering a new one from VPW. However, I noticed that the old pulley fits very tightly on the crank - so tightly that I would have to beat it on with a sledge hammer and a block of wood. Even then, I'm not sure it would go on. I'm wondering if Dodge designed these pulleys for an interference fit on the crank. Have other Pilothouse owners experienced the same problem? Another question: Are any special tools required to install the timing cover?
  9. Jocko_51_B3B

    Fuel Sending Unit Erratic

    I agree and if I ever find a NOS sender for sale I'll snap it up. The replacement I bought has China written all over it. For all kinds of reasons, we Americans better learn how to start making things here again.
  10. Jocko_51_B3B

    B3B Transmission Cover Plate

    Sounds good. It seems that these plates don't come up for sale very often or I would have tried for the correct one. Thanks for the reply.
  11. The transmission cover plate was missing when I bought my B3B, but I found one in very good shape on eBay. Only problem is that the plate came from a '48, '49, or '50 and has the oblong hole in it for a floor mounted emergency brake handle. My '51's e-brake handle is under the dash. Does anyone have a photo of a transmission cover plate without that hole. Did Dodge put a plug into the hole for the last three years or simply stamp plates without the hole. I want to know how it should look if I decide to weld it up.
  12. Jocko_51_B3B

    Door stays

    That's a great suggestion. If I decide to try the thinner steel (.042) , I will definitely give it a try.
  13. Jocko_51_B3B

    Tappet Adjustment Cold

    I'm still in the engine rebuilding stage and it's time to do an initial cold engine tappet adjustment. After I get it running, I'll re-do the tappets hot. For now I just want them in the ballpark. How can I be sure the lobes on each cam are pointing straight down for each valve when I'm adjusting the gap? The book says the gap should be .014 cold for intakes and exhausts. ('51 B3B) I don't have the head on yet. Can cam lobe position be determined from piston height? Or timing gear position?
  14. Jocko_51_B3B

    1950 DeSoto fuel pickup problem

    Here's what a fuel sending unit looks like inside. This post also shows why they can have problems...
  15. I bought a brand new fuel gauge sending unit from one of the well known Pilothouse suppliers and decided to check it out with an ohmmeter before installing it. According to the supplier, the ohms for Pilothouse trucks should range roughly between 10 and 100 ohms as the wiper arm slides along the resistance wire. But all I got were completely erratic readings or no reading at all on my ohmmeter. I had purchased the part two years ago and the supplier wouldn't take it back so I decided to take the unit apart and see why it failed. There were two problems. First of all, the brass wiper arm was turned 180 degrees around and was making no contact with the coil of resistance wire! I turned the arm around to make contact with the wire coil. Second, the resistance wire was so loosely wound around the white nylon insulator that when the wiper arm moved up and down, the wire would move around with it! Because the resistance wire would not stay put, of course the resistance readings were totally erratic. Here's how I fixed it. First, I poked around on the loose resistance wire to try to space it out more or less evenly. Then, in order to prevent the wire from moving around, I got some crazy glue from Ace Hardware and dropped a bead along the bottom of the wire coil (opposite where the wiper arm contacts the wire of course). After that, I retested the unit and now get smooth variation from 10 to 86 ohms which should be close enough. I am not sure if most sending units work this way, but if they do, poor quality control in manufacturing can definitely cause erratic fuel quantity readings from brand new sending units. Is anything made with quality in the good old USA anymore?

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use