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Jocko_51_B3B

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About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8

Converted

  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

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  1. Jocko_51_B3B

    B3B Transmission Cover Plate

    Brent, Your photos are a good reference in case a good B3B transmission cover plate comes up for sale on eBay. It would be interesting to find out how many transmission cover plate variations are out there and to which year and model Pilothouse trucks they belong. Glenn
  2. Jocko_51_B3B

    Generator Internal/External Grounded?

    Difference Between Externally Grounded and Internally Grounded Generators The generator circuits shown below can be classified as either circuit A or circuit B. An "A" circuit generator is shown on the left. In this type circuit, the field winding is connected to the insulated brush inside the generator and is connected to ground through the contact points in the regulator. In the "B" circuit generator, the field winding is grounded inside the generator and is connected to the armature circuit inside the regulator. Circuit A - External Ground Circuit B - Internal Ground The diagram below comes from the 1951 Dodge Truck Shop Manual on page 208. The generator ( labeled #12) in the diagram matches Circuit A above. So, the generators in Pilothouse Trucks are Externally Grounded. How to Polarize a Pilothouse Generator To polarize an "A" circuit generator (external ground), momentarily connect a jumper lead between the regulator BATTERY and ARMATURE terminals after all leads have been connected, but before the engine is started. (This is how a Pilothouse Generator should be polarized!) To polarize an "B" circuit generator (internal ground), disconnect the lead from the regulator FIELD terminal, and momentarily touch the lead to the regulator BATTERY terminal. This should be done after all other leads have been connected and before the engine is started. (Pilothouse Trucks are not polarized this way!) Note I wanted to do some kind of quick and easy test to try to verify for myself that my B3B generator really is of the externally grounded type. (I did my test while my generator was on a bench, not installed or hooked up to anything else.) So, referring to the Circuit A / Circuit B diagram at the very top, I took an ohmmeter reading between terminal A and terminal F (A to F Ohms). I then took another ohmmeter reading between terminal F and the generator case ground (F to G Ohms). Based on the top diagram, and seeing the current path that the ohmmeter current must pass through... If the generator is externally grounded (Circuit A), then The (A to F Ohms) should be less than the (F to G Ohms). But, if the generator is internally grounded (Circuit B), then The (A to F Ohms) should be greater than (F to G Ohms). This is because for Circuit A (External Ground) the ohmmeter current from A to F only needs to pass through the field coil, while the resistance measurement from F to ground includes both the field coil and the armature. The reverse is true for Circuit B (Internal Ground). Anyway, for my generator, (A to F) was 3.6 Ohms and (F to G) was 3.9 Ohms which verifies (to me, anyway) that my B3B generator is externally grounded which is what I was hoping to see. I hope this helps someone else to understand the difference between internally and externally grounded generators as well as to do the actual polarization if necessary. (Most of the information above was taken from http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/delco_remy_generator.pdf and the Dodge B-3 Shop Manual.)
  3. Jocko_51_B3B

    B3B Transmission Cover Plate

    When I bought my B3B both toe boards were missing but I saw a toe board set for a 1950 B2B for sale on ebay and I bought the set. The lower toe board came with the pedal studs attached. The transmission cover is also from a 1950 and it lacked the pedal studs. I guess Dodge moved the studs from the toe board to the trans cover plate in 1951. If anyone has a B3B, it would be interesting to know where the pedal studs are located - toe board or trans cover. In any case, I think my trans cover and toe boards will work out since they are both from a B2B.
  4. I'll probably leave the windshield wiper links and seat handle / rods go unpainted with most of the rest of the parts black. Since Don Bunn's book says that the seat riser and frame should be cab color, I'll probably paint the seat brackets and seat regulators cab color too but it seems unusual that Dodge would have painting those small parts to match the cab instead of just painting them all black like they did for the bed. I'll paint the door hinges, battery box, and fender brackets to match the cab. Bunn's book lists the splash shields as black so I'll do the support shields and extensions in black too.
  5. My B3B sheet metal painting began last week. Cab color will be dark green, bed black. But I also want to be mostly correct about the colors of the more hidden, smaller, and obscure parts. I think most of these parts should be black or unpainted, but I want to check with other Pilothouse owners about the colors they believe to be correct. Here's a list of the parts in question. If you are pretty sure of the color of a given part, please share your knowledge. (Don Bunn's book has a lot of good part color info on page 32, but most of the parts I listed below are not covered in Don's book as far as I can tell.) I posted photos of each part at the bottom of this list to make it easier to see which parts I'm talking about. Number Dodge Part Name Dodge Part Number Dodge "Part List" Page Number My Best Guess 1. Upper Door Hinges Cab Color 2. Lower Front Fender Brackets 12-05-15 12-1 Black 3. Upper Front Fender Brackets 12-06-3 12-1 Black 4. Support Shield 12-04-38 12-1 Black 5. Extension 12-04-36 12-2 Black 6. Catch 15-15-1 12-1 Black 7. Splashshield 12-04-4 12-1 Black According to Bunn 8. Cowl Lid Hinge 23-61-65 23-14 Black or Unpainted 9. Cowl Lid Brace 23-61-31 23-14 Black or Unpainted 10. Battery Box Black or Cab Color 11. Window Channels 23-09-50 33-12 Black 12. Seat Brackets (L-Shaped) none 23-14 Black or Cab Color 13. Seat Regulators 23-47-6 23-14 Black or Cab Color 14. Horn Bracket Cab Color According to Bunn 15. Steering Column Support Bracket Black According to Bunn 16. Seat Handle 23-47-55 23-14 Unpainted 17. Seat Rod 23-47-66 23-14 Unpainted 18. Windshield Wiper Links 23 -67-79 23-16 Unpainted 8. Cowl Lid Hinge 7. Splashshield 6. Catches 5. Extensions 4. Support Shields 3. Upper Fender Brackets 2. Lower Fender Brackets 1. Upper Door Hinges 9. Cowl Lid Brace 10. Battery Box 11. Window Channels 12. Seat Brackets - Front 12. Seat Brackets - Rear 13. Seat Regulators 14. Horn Bracket 15. Steering Column Support Bracket 16. and 17. Seat Handle and Rods 18. Windshield Wiper Links
  6. Jocko_51_B3B

    "Ol Blue" Build

    jmoonier, You have a great attitude. I'm approaching my restoration with the same spirit of learning and adventure. I've never had to rebuild an engine either so I took a course at a local community college just so I could wear out the instructors with all kinds of basic questions. Whatever I turn my attention to on my '51, I learn something new - from welding to brake lines to engine work to paint. At the same time, I'm finding that just learning about the history of these Pilothouse trucks is fascinating. We don't see that many of them compared to Fords and Chevy's which makes them all the better! Glenn
  7. Jocko_51_B3B

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Jay, I had a 1950 B2B and I presently own a 1951 B3B. They both had exactly the same 4-speed transmission. Here's what both transmissions look like in case you decide to go with a four speed. I don't know if these trucks could be ordered with a 3-speed, but if it works and drives OK and you're happy, then why change? By the way, I'm getting ready to paint my '51. Did you use base/clear or single stage? I'm still trying to decide what to use.
  8. Jocko_51_B3B

    Setting cam to crankshaft timing

    The B-3 Series shop manual shows a picture of the dots on the crankshaft and cam pulleys right next to each other so I decided to follow the book's example. That put my #1 and #6 pistons at TDC. (#1 and #6 are companion cylinders.) From looking at the cam lobes, #6 is in firing position. (#1, which is not in firing position, is almost ready for the intake valve to open.) I installed the oil pump and distributor so that the rotor on my distributor is at 7 o'clock. So, when I install my plug wires I'll just run a wire from the 7 o'clock distributor post to the #6 plug. Then I'll install the remaining plug wires in accordance with the firing order. That should work. My B-3 shop manual doesn't seem to say anything about making sure that the rotor is in the 7 o'clock position. As long as the the rotor lines up with the wire going to the cylinder that is firing does it matter? It would be fun to know exactly how the Dodge factory ran the wires from which distributor post to which cylinder. I haven't seen a good photo of that yet. If anyone has that info, please share it.
  9. Jocko_51_B3B

    Setting cam to crankshaft timing

    Merle, you're right. When I line my dots up like the picture below, it looks like my #1 is in firing position (going by how the cam lobes are positioned.) The #1 piston is now in firing position.
  10. Jocko_51_B3B

    Setting cam to crankshaft timing

    I'm rebuilding my engine and I apologize for bringing up yet another timing question. Please take a look at my pictures and let me know if I'm seeing things right.. I lined up the dot marks. The #1 piston is at TDC. But it looks to me like the #1 piston is NOT in firing position.
  11. Jocko_51_B3B

    Paint - Base/Clear or Single Stage?

    Here's where my '51 was at as of yesterday afternoon. The doors are almost ready for final painting too. I'm still doing filler work on the fenders and grill. The hood is in great shape and doesn't need as much attention. Haven't started work on the bed yet but it's going to be all black just like the factory made it. I had to buy replacements for the bed front panel and tailgate which weren't economical to repair. The front end color will be dark green. Green and black is how this truck came from San Leandro 67 years ago. The wheels are already painted in as close to original Dodge cream as I could make them. Of course before the cab got to this point, there was a certain amount of sheet metal and filler work. The passenger side of the floor was in the worst shape and I ended up replacing the entire passenger and driver sides. Earlier in the day I seam sealed the edge where the roof meets the back panel. Masked off the interior to avoid overspray... One coat of epoxy... Then two coats of high build primer...
  12. Jocko_51_B3B

    Paint - Base/Clear or Single Stage?

    To answer the first reply to my original post, my very first search used the word "paint" and I realized right away how many replies exist that contain the word "paint", but I didn't see any replies that specifically addressed the question of comparing the two major paint systems. That's why I tried to be very specific in the title to my post. Although I am new to painting, I do know how to use the search function. Here's my situation. I have full access to a professional paint booth located in a professional body shop / classic car restoration business. My truck is located there now and I'm getting a lots of great advice from the owner, a friend of mine, who has been in business for over twenty years. Although I am new to car restoration, I have already spent many hours doing the filler work and sanding required to properly prepare my B3B for a very nice paint job. There were a few rust problems with my truck when I bought it. I have had all of those problems professionally corrected by having the bad spots cut out and replaced with new metal at the same shop. I have discussed the painting system to be used with the owner. He recommends BC/CC, but I want to consider all options before making a final decision which is why I appealed to other Pilothouse owners about their own personal experiences. I might or might not do the final paint. I've primed the doors and cab and am getting ready to prime the fenders and grill. So far, the priming looks great, but in the end, it's the paint that will be seen. I want to thank everyone who replied to my post but especially to those who replied with photos of their vehicles done in single stage. Those vehicles look great and I'm leaning toward SS myself. Thanks Again!
  13. I know it's a matter of personal preference, but I'm almost at the decision point regarding the type of paint to use on my '51 B3B. What type of paint have other Pilothouse owners used, and why did you choose it. Did you paint your truck yourself or have a professional shop do the work? Are you pleased with the outcome? Did you experience any problems? I've searched this site and haven't found any threads that really go into painting. I understand that each system has pros and cons. Any and all details are welcome.
  14. Jocko_51_B3B

    New glass

    austinsailor, It looks like you are doing things right. I'm getting ready to re-do the door and vent window glass in my '51 B3B. I have a few questions that you or someone else might be able to answer. My glass and regulators are in good shape and I already have all the glass related parts removed from both doors. Referring to page 23-12 in the parts manual, 1. For the main door glass, did you run into any special difficulties removing the glass from the division bar or channel? 2. Was it difficult to remove the frame from the vent window glass? 3. Did the RTV work out? 4. Did Bernbaum have all the replacement parts you needed? Any tips or helpful information regarding door glass re-assemly / refurbishing / part replacement will be greatly appreciated. For some reason the door glass stuff kind of intimidates me a little bit. Not sure why. Hopefully, someone else will be able to benefit from your experience as well. Thanks, Jocko
  15. I'm rebuilding the 4-speed transmission in my B3B. The old bearings seem to be working smoothly but I want to clean them and replace the old grease. Can wheel bearing grease or multi-purpose grease be used or is there a special transmission bearing grease that is required? Also, any particular recommendations regarding brand or grade of gear oil for the transmission?
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