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About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8


  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

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1,000 profile views
  1. I have a couple of questions about using a drill to pre-lube the engine by spinning the oil pump through the distributor hole. Does the timing chain need to be removed?
  2. The cam bearing lubrication hole is on the correct side. I made sure of that. The bearing needs to be flipped upside down, not turned around. My focus was too much on the hole and not enough on possible tappet interference. I didn't even realize that tappet interference was a possibility. Believe me, I know it now! The good news is that my little "whoopsie" forced me to take the engine apart which allowed me to know for sure that oil was getting everywhere it needed to go. All main, rod, and cam bearings and journals were in good shape and had plenty of oil. Very costly mistake in time and effort however. Good lesson in paying attention to detail. Hopefully this will be the last mistake I ever make in this life. 😫
  3. Well, it looks like part of the problem is my fault. I incorrectly installed the #2 cam bearing upside down causing it to interfere with the #2 cylinder exhaust tappet. This could very well have caused the the chirping noise. Also, the bearing should have been inserted a little further into the block. Fortunately I installed the identical #3 cam bearing correctly. My oil pump looks, feels, and pumps oil fine so I don't know why I have a small fluctuation in oil pressure. The #2 cyl exhaust tappet interferes slightly with the cam bearing. The curved notch in the bearing should be next to the tappet for clearance.
  4. Engine is finally complete. Engine bored and sleeved. New pistons standard size. New main and rod bearings. New valves. New valve seats. New valve springs New cam bearings. Polished crank journals. Kept the old valve guides, tappets, keepers, cam, crank, etc. Added five quarts of 30W break-in oil. As soon as fuel made it to the carburetor, it started right up and sounded pretty good. Ran it several times for a total of probably 45 minutes to an hour and started to hear a periodic squeak/rubbing/chirping noise along with about a 1-2psi fluctuation in oil pressure. The oil pressure fluctuation was not present during the first few start-ups. Pulled the engine. Completely disassembled the engine. All main bearings, cam bearings, piston walls, tappets, were well lubricated. No spun bearings. No dry spots or damage that I can see. Should I have ignored the noise and oil pressure fluctuation in hopes it would "work it's way out"? I'm scratching my head after a lot of work.
  5. Very nice old Plymouth! Good pa(ul)tina too. (But keep your eyes open when you're at the lake.)
  6. Jan, No problem at all! You were helping me out! Your solution caused me to go back and review the engine oiling system. Later today I'll test the filter again and post the results. Do us a favor and post a photo of your '39 Plymouth truck. Jocko
  7. I removed the relief valve, but it is free and well lubricated. I have good oil pressure and my lines are new so I thought I better check the filter housing itself. Sure enough, there is a tiny hole inside the bottom fitting boss about 1/16 in in diameter. It was clogged solid. I couldn't blow through it. I used a safety pin to clear the clog followed by a good rinsing of the internal tube with lacquer thinner. I'll test oil flow through the filter tomorrow and post the results. Flash light shining through the hole: The hole is actually a little less than 1/16 inch. I could not poke a 1/16 inch drill bit through it.
  8. After three years I finally fired up my rebuilt 218 for the first time yesterday and it ran like a top (except for a couple of minor coolant leaks and a fuel leak). My oil pressure is 45psi (a big relief). So far I've only run the engine for five or ten minutes at idle just to check things out. This morning I pulled out the sock type oil filter to see if I have oil flow up to the filter. But no! The sock filter is totally clean just like new! No oil has gone through the filter at all. I don't see how that's possible with 45 psi on the gauge. So, I removed the whole oil filter assembly as well as the supply and return lines to check for obstructions. Everything is free and clear. So I left the oil port in the main oil gallery disconnected and wide open. Then I cranked the engine. A considerable amount of oil came out of the port. So, as far as I can tell, lack of oil pressure and flow in the main gallery is not the problem. Here's my question: Do 218 engines need to be running at highway speed before they are able to build up enough pressure (and flow) for oil to flow up through the oil filter?
  9. I came across these two short tutorials on how a mechanical voltage regulator functions in detail. Apparently there are two basic types depending on how the generator field winding is wired, type A and type B. Other than that, the two types are identical. I'm guessing Pilothouse Dodge trucks use something closer to type A. They explain how the three parts of a voltage regulator control charging the battery, how it prevents the battery from draining back to ground through the generator when generator voltage is low or zero, and how it prevents overcurrent and over overvoltage conditions from happening. Just good stuff to know. Type A Type B
  10. I finished the new lines last night. No more loop at the bottom of the return line and both lines now going to the correct places in the block! Thanks Merle.
  11. Don, I'm pretty sure your diagram pertains to a different style of filter housing from what I have in my '51 B3B truck. My filter housing looks different and is marked "Outlet" where the oil line enters the housing from the side near the top edge as my photo shows. Your diagram must pertain to your 1948 D-24.
  12. I have a bypass type filter housing just like Merle described on page two of this thread. Fortunately for me, Merle pointed out the "Outlet" marking at the top of his housing which I also have and hadn't noticed until yesterday. That made me take a second look at the oil lines going to the housing. It looks like I hooked mine up backwards. The line from the main oil gallery in the block goes to the "Outlet" of the filter housing which is obviously wrong. Not too big a deal. I'll remake the lines today or tomorrow. I had no idea how much confusion swirls around these filters. Now I wonder if I bought the correct filter? Can someone verify? Here's my top cover and the filter I bought (I think it's correct, just not positive):
  13. Well, I thought I was organized, but I slipped up a little bit this time. I checked around on my parts shelf and there was the oil tube clamp. The idea of using a socket to expand the bottom of the tube also worked. Thanks much to all who responded.
  14. I didn't know my upper clamp was missing. Very valuable. Thanks a bunch everyone!
  15. My oil filler tube isn't tightly seated in the block and I'm concerned it will fall out or leak or both. I'm thinking about using Aircraft sealant to seal it and hopefully make it stay in place, but that seems shaky. Has anyone else dealt with this? Is there a way to expand the bottom of the tube a little bit so it won't be so loose?
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