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About Jocko_51_B3B

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Minooka Illinois
  • Interests
    In process of doing a restoration on a 1951 B-3-B.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B-3-B
    1950 Ford F-1 V8


  • Location
    Minooka IL
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, Softball, Theology, Science

Recent Profile Visitors

874 profile views
  1. I've seen front bumper guards in sets of three on 48-50 Pilothouse trucks, but the front bumper on my 51 has a license plate stamping in the middle of the bumper which eliminates having a guard in the center. Did the trucks starting with the 51's still have a factory option available for only two guards (one guard on each side of the license plate stamping) thereby eliminating the center guard? What year was the last year bumper guards were available as an option?
  2. Jocko_51_B3B

    Vacuum Advance Connection

    Never thought of doing that, but it looks nice and neat. Can you post a photo of the other side of your engine too. I see you left the heat riser off. I guess you don't need it in Arizona.
  3. Jocko_51_B3B

    Fuel Line Routing Question

    Charlie, You mentioned the DOT. Are you referring to CuNi tubing being used for fuel line? From what I've read, CuNi line can be used for both fuel and brake lines. Since CuNi is used for brakes, pressure isn't an issue and since CuNi doesn't corrode it's better than steel in that respect. CuNi is easy to form and double flare. If there is some other problem with CuNi, I haven't heard of it.
  4. The fuel inlet fitting on my fuel pump is fully tightened. The way it finally seated causes the fuel line hose to point forward. This makes me think that the gas line to the tank should be routed from the hose along the front-most cross member (the cross member that supports the front of the engine) and then back along the driver side of the frame until it reaches the tank. Is this the normal route for the line? Is there a better way? Does it really matter how the gas gets from A to B?
  5. Jocko_51_B3B

    Fuel Filters

    Problem solved. Head scratching over. I didn't know there are two different types of special fittings for the carburetor inlet. A special thanks to JBNeal for mentioning a rebuild kit as a possible source and to Dodgeb4ya for posting what they look like. I ordered a rebuild kit from DCM and, sure enough, the kit had both types of fittings. I'm guessing that the male/male is for use when installing the fuel filter and the male/female is for use without the filter. Here's what my kit contained...Thanks to all who posted replies.
  6. Jocko_51_B3B

    Fuel Filters

    Here's another detail that has me wondering... the carburetor inlet fitting is a 5/16 inverted-flare female. The outlet port on the fuel filter has pipe threads. Is there a standard fitting available for connecting the fuel filter to the carburetor inlet? The right fitting must exist, but I'm not finding it for some reason. The parts stores are not much help when it comes to fittings and I would like to avoid wasting time and money on an online ordering mistake.
  7. Jocko_51_B3B

    Vacuum Advance Connection

    I wanted to have full adjustment of the distributor without bending the metal line so here's what I came up with... The silicone hose has a 5/32 inside diameter so it fits snuggly on the 3/16 CuNi line. I got the hose from Napa (part # H467). It's made by Gates and is rated at 400 deg F. I might end up shortening the hose after I get the engine running.
  8. Jocko_51_B3B

    Fuel Filters

    My mechanical fuel pump has an integrated fuel filter, but some flatheads have a filter attached to the carburetor inlet. Since the fuel pump has a filter already, is the carb filter really necessary or is it just extra insurance? Integrated Fuel Filter Carburetor Fuel Filter
  9. Jocko_51_B3B

    1953 Dodge - What have I got into

    I can't tell from the picture, but does your "new" engine have a heat riser in the exhaust manifold? Just asking since I just got finished rebuilding the HR in my '51. I'm in Illinois where today's temp is about 29 degrees but maybe in warm sunny California heat risers are unnecessary anyway. It would be interesting to know if other owners out there just leave them out most of the time.
  10. Jocko_51_B3B

    Vacuum Advance Connection

    I need some advice connecting the vacuum line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance. The carburetor vacuum fitting is 3/16 double flare. I'm thinking of using 3/16 CuNi brake line from the carburetor over the top of the head and connecting the other end to a hose going to the vacuum advance so the distributor can move freely. How Dodge set it up at the factory is an open question.
  11. Jocko_51_B3B

    56 Wagon questions

    If you have to replace the fuel tank sending unit, contact these guys: http://mykmlifestyle.com They're based in Massachusetts. These guys know what they're doing. They can probably custom make a sending unit for your car and it will be made from quality US components. I originally ordered a sending unit for my '51 Dodge truck from one of the better known sources and it was defective right out of the box. The ohm readings were completely erratic. I took the unit apart to see why it was so erratic. All I can say is that the way it was designed and constructed it didn't have a chance of lasting long term. It was typical poor Chinese quality. KM Lifestyle made me a quality unit. The difference was like night and day and it wasn't expensive. The resistance measurements are as smooth as silk. All they needed was the vehicle, the depth of the tank, and the way it locks into the opening of the tank. I'd give them a call.
  12. Jocko_51_B3B

    Heat Riser - Here's What I See

    Dodgeb4ya, Good explanation. My B3B shop manual contains instructions on how to install the spring but doesn't mention the exact positioning of the counterweight when the engine is cold. Where did your picture come from? I'm going to reposition my counterweight to match it. Thanks for posting it.
  13. Jocko_51_B3B

    Heat Riser - Here's What I See

    I just did a total rebuild on the heat riser by replacing the bushings, shaft, flap valve, bi-metallic spring, spacer, and everything else except the counterweight. I spot welded the shaft to the flap valve per the tech article. Everything moves freely with no binding. When the spring is cold and I rotate the counterweight to the right 90 degrees, it bounces back up to its starting point as it should. But what pushes the counterweight over to the three o'clock position when the engine heats up.
  14. Jocko_51_B3B

    A Nice Dodge Taillight Solution

    I'm thinking about getting some old-fashioned stencil letters and using my left over silver spray paint to spray the word "Dodge" or "Job Rated" on the lenses of my Grote taillights. 99.9% of the public won't know the difference anyway and maybe they'll turn out half way decent. At least my lights will be water tight. If one gets broken, they're cheap to replace.
  15. Is there supposed to be a gasket of some kind between the transmission and bell housing? I don't remember removing one when I disassembled the truck. I can't see one in the parts manual and don't really see a need for one, but it seems I've read that some of the old Mopar cars used a gasket. Just double checking.

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