jgreg53
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Everything posted by jgreg53
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When adjusting valves, does it matter which stroke the cylinder is in as long as its top dead center?
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Could resetting the valves throw off the timing?
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ADJUSTING VALVES - MOPAR FLATHEAD 6 - Speedy Guide
jgreg53 replied to Semmerling's topic in Technical Archives
When trying to follow these instructions, the my valves weren't opened and closed in the same pattern as your illustration. I set the ones that were closed. A running temp motor no longer warm before you can finish setting all the valves. Now she won't start and it has an uneven gallop when turning over. What have I done wrong? -
I've never had this motor opened up. Compression is good all cylinders.
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My p15 has a hard knock. I don't think it's a valve. It hasn't hurt anything. Always been there. Any ideas?
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I see quite a few steering tubes with a worm gear for various Willis jeeps . I wonder if anyone knows of a crossover number .
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My p15 has a hard knock when idling could be wrong but I don't think it's a valve.any ideas. It's been there since I got the car. Hasn't hurt anything so far.
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I've looked for replacement gears. Not easy to find.
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I added a thin shim between the lower race and the end cover. Play is better. Haven't driven it yet.
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I've rebuilt the box already. The adjustment screw is turned down as far as it will go. I need new gears but they're hard to find and pricey.
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I can set up the steering box so it is easier to steer, but then I have a great deal of play. Then I set it up to have less play and then it's a bear to turn.
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Front passenger door window
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I have no idea why it broke. It was a really hot summer. The car was outside I went out to start it up and saw the Crack. What about the metal divider on the glass. Does it come off?
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My front passenger window is cracked. How hard is it to change. And have any of you ordered Glass from bernbaum?
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I finally decided to go with the rubber expansion plug. Seems to be holding. No leaks.
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It is in a difficult location. Whoever says the old cars are easy to work on never had to work on one
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Nope it's behind the starter. It's where the dipstick goes in near the connection for the oil gauge.
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I have a leaking plug behind the starter. I was thinking I would one of those rubber expansion plugs. Opinions? Pro, con?
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Well, I got everything back together, new pan gasket, resurfaced flywheel, new gaskets in transmission. New motor mounts. Had to readjust clutch and pedal freeplay. Ran her around the block a few times. No more leaks, so far. No more chatter in the clutch.
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So I was able to get the flywheel installed by backing up the studs. New gasket on the pan and back on. Clutch is back on the flywheel. I ordered new rear supports. Any pointers for aligning the clutch without a tool?
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I drained the engine and pulled off the pan it looks really clean in the bottom end. No chunks of metal in the pan. I plan to check out the rear main seal. Just looking at it I can't tell that it's leaking.
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The studs on my crank are up against the oil pan. The manual calls for removing it. I don't know if I'm ready to do that.
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The engine is in the car. I tried hooking a wire to the flywheel and running it through one of the vent holes. But doing it pulls the flywheel away from the studs.
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The flywheel by itself is a big enough problem. Since it's indexed it only goes on one way. Laying on my back trying to hold it up to match the bolt pattern. Keep thinking I'm going to drop it on me. The thing weighs as much as a small piano. An old man's arms aren't very muscular.
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Will the bell housing go on after mounting g the flywheel on a p15?