jgreg53
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Everything posted by jgreg53
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Through investigation I find that the play has more to do with motion in and out or up and down with the steering rod. It's as if something is missing Between the upper a d lower bearings. I've been adding various shims behind the bearing races trying to take up the slack. In doing that, it becomes hard to turn. When I put a vice grip on the end of the sector shaft and twist I can see the slack in the rod. Adding shims behind the end cover only increases the slack. Any ideas?
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I took it all back out. The brass sleeves are undersized. The top sleeve slid up pushing the sector shaft up. Sleeves are supposed to be a press fit.
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I just rebuilt my steering box again with kit from AB. I had the box on the bench in the vice. I had zero play. Put it all back together and in the car. Still have play and hard steering. By the way, what's the purpose of the washers an the spring? i forgot to put those on.
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I thought autolite lost their contract with Walmart. I worked for autolite for thirteen years making spark plugs. The Walmart contract was a very big deal back then. All I see in Walmart not is a few plugs for small engines.
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This is in Leavenworth. Auto electric.
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Got the starter back in. The thing spins now better than it ever has. 120 bucks.
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took the starter apart. found 2 of the brushes broken off from where i soldered them before. trying to resolder but can't get it to stick. took the starter to a shop near me. should be ready tomorrow. really doesn't look like a very solid place to solder. i really can't tell what i'm looking at, spyder with your pic.
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OK. Thanks.
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Trying to start my 48. She was cranking over and then stopped cranking. Solenoid still clicks when I cross the poles. Battery is showing 6.3 volts. (I'm charging it anyway). I tightened cables and wires to the solenoid. Cleaned battery posts and cables. I rebuilt the starter several years ago myself. What do you guys think? Starter again?
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Trying to start my 48. She was cranking over and then stopped cranking. Solenoid still clicks when I cross the poles. Battery is showing 6.3 volts. (I'm charging it anyway). I tightened cables and wires to the solenoid. Cleaned battery posts and cables. I rebuilt the starter several years ago myself. What do you guys think? Starter again?
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Thanks for the advice. I didn't put bushings in there.
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I finally had to drill them out. I'm actually using a rubber boat trailer roller to make my own mounts. It works and is a lot cheaper. So I have enough to add bushings to the firewall corners.. and I tried the torch. Didn't help. It did set the old rubber on fire.
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The connections at the firewall corners have no rubber bushings. Is this normal? I'm going to put some in anyway.
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Well, I'm officially throwing in the towel. Bolts are seized in the frame. It shows no signs of separation. The job is over my head.
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The two mounts right below the front doors are stuck, big time. The bolts going through the floor in into the frame are seized in their holes. Could this keep the frame from separating? Also, I took the steering box loose.
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Would someone have pics of these capture nuts? My shop manual shows 5 on each side.
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I'm trying to change body mounts on my 48. I loosened the driver side mounts and took the fasteners off the passenger side. I'm having a heck of a time getting body and frame to separate enough to get a couple of the old mounts completely off. Any suggestions?
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Young ed, do you have a part number?
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trying to get the vibration problem solved. ball and trunnions are a real pain to deal with . yes, it can be the cost.
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I spoke to Bill north at north manufacturing. He's telling me 500 for a new shaft. I also spoke with him about drive line vibration. Turns out I needed more weight than hose clamps alone.so I added some weights to the clamps. Much better now.
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Where can I find the parts to convert my b&t joints to the modern Spicer joints?
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Finally got back to the car. Removed the spark plugs. Rotated the motor to top dead center on #1 cylinder. Re adjusted valves that were all the way down. Rotated motor to #6 cylinder at top dead center.. readjusted the rest. Put plugs back in. She started. I did the setting on the motor cold at .010 and .012. After the motor warmed up I did some fine tuning. Running better. Thanks for all your advice guys.
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I'm leary of even cranking it right now
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It's not starting. It has an uneven gallop when turning over. Really haven't had time to investigate. Afraid I could bend a valve. Thought about backing off all the valves and starting over. It's difficult getting the valves in the right position. Hard to do alone finding 7:00 and 1:30.
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I guess that's a no? As long as both valves are closed?
