MartinsB3B

If I remember correctly either a 5/16" or 3/8" brake line screws into it. Standard thread.

LR: WC10583-WC10582 RR: WC10581-WC10580 Front: WC17789 x2 Least these are for my B3B, should work.

Front and rear?

Map gas will work fine, just make sure to heat around the head and not the stud.

Heat it a little, then use vice grips on the stud to twist it out. I had to do that with my water pump bolts after they broke. Make sure to put some anti seize on some bolts and run in the hole before using.

Definitely salvage any parts off that tranny you can. People are always looking for those parts. Brake related specifically.

I think 1/4" line was what I used.

I have part numbers for all the rear W/cyls that you can buy from an Oreillys

The bellhousing bolts to the motor mount bracket on the frame, then the front bolts to the crossmember. There's also a perch with two long bolt holes for the radiator.

That is one sharp truck! Just curious, what paint code did you use?

Can you take a picture of the turbo setup? I've had a lite thought of doing it myself.

Heres a few pictures of the water distribution tube I pulled today. Working on getting the video of the engine running saved to the computer so I can post it.

You have my attention!!! This rig is awesome.

Just removed the water distribution tube, and it is in real good condition. Other than breaking two water pump bolts everything went smooth, with a pair of vice grips the broken studs came out. Next is to get a new water pump and thermostat, get my carb back from the shop. Then find a radiator and test drive!

The picture you posted has the same bracket for the springs as what was on mine. The bracket came off of the 37 bellhousing.

Sounds good. I'll probably have to make one since there is no tellin where my old one is.

That's it, the pedals are the same and the bracket for the springs are the same. Anyway you could measure that?

There's a little less than a half inch between the pedals without that bracket in there.

Here's the 230ci After I installed it, I was surprised how much it cleaned up.

Also installed my parking brake band, adjusted it in and cleaned up with two new springs.

Here is where I need information on the spacer between the pedals.

Been a little while from my last post, got the engine out and trans swapped and then reinstalled last night, today I got the drives haft hooked up and the clutch and brake pedals in. Now I need to do a little modifying to the floor pan to allow the pedals to come up all the way. Big thanks to 48Dodger for the new truck "man pan" to clear the axle and drag links. Now I have a question. For you all who have a 4spd non-synchro, what kind of spacer is there between the clutch and brake pedal? I'm currently using the bracket that holds the springs and connects to the bell housing and rod for the clutch. It's still too small because the pedal rocks back and forth. I will post some progress pictures soon, and also will be trying a test drive soon(couple months)!!!

I'll be pulling the engine again so if I can find the oil pan I need I will switch it. I'll be swapping transmissions from the 3 speed to the 4.

Is there anyway to look up a transmission by the numbers on the sides of the casting? I have a 4 speed that my grandpa put in the truck, It was a bulldog that came out of a larger truck, but without knowing the size it would be harder to find parts for. Anyway, the numbers on the block look to read C-38561.

With the help of a friend of mine we got the engine running last night and let idle for a couple minutes. The transmission I have is out of a '37 so I'll be using the same driveshaft from the '37, I also have to get the yoke from the rear axle to put onto my '52 since the U-joints are different. Anyone else had the same problem?