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HellYeah

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Everything posted by HellYeah

  1. This is how its done on an old manifold I bought a few years back. Probably done in the 1950s..
  2. As a emergency repair I installed a Weber 32/36 on my -47 Dodge. The carb I had in my garage, have used it on a Volvo 240 B230 engine before. The reason for the swap: the old Stromberg carb on the Dodge is just worn out. With the weber the car starts easy, idles ok but got high fuel consumption and the car des not pull very good. I guess it comes down to the jets. The question: Does anybody here have experience with what jet sizes works good with a single 32/36 on the 230 cui?
  3. About the Olds and 4 brl: Oldsmobile introduced their first 4 brl carb on the 303 cui in 1952. It was stock in the Super 88 and I belive also in the 98.
  4. I´m about to install a alloy "hi-comp" head on my 230". I got the old type head gasket, but I think there might be a modern type (Felpro?) available? Anyone know where to buy this one? Thanks.
  5. And a very merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year to you all from my garage in Norway!!! :-)
  6. Thank´s for your answers. And thank you Shel for the specific information!
  7. Hi there. My 1947 D24 3-w coupe got 15" rims. I was under the impression that this was the original rims for this car. But I´m told that Dodge only supplied 16" rims for the D24 and no 15" option. What is correct?
  8. I´m running a Weber 32/36 on my -47 Dodge right now. But the reason is that I happen to have one on the shelf in my garage, and my old carb was failing. Built an adaptor for the Weber and installed. The car run more smooth, but are lacking power when going up steep hills. This might be cause my Weber is tuned for a 140 hp Volvo 2,3 liter engine. Also I learned when connecting a vacuum gauge to the vakuum port on the Weber I got no vakuum when idling. The reason is that the vakuum port is over the throttle plate on my Weber. Made a vakuum port under the carb in my adapter, and measure good vakuum when idling .
  9. Got a vintage Tattersfield dual intake including a pair Carter BB carbs with adjustable main jets. Probably from around 1950 I guess.
  10. Thank´s for posting all that information folks! Great help! :-)
  11. I will order a set of new lifters then. The head manufacturer closed in 1952 so no more information there I´m afraid.... Edmunds will probably be the closest to my head (Tattersfield). If 65 #ft worked in your engine it will probably work fine on mine as well. I guess the sequence pattern will be the same as the stock head...
  12. I´m about to test a new camshaft and a aluminium head on my -47 230 cui engine. But I´m not sure what torque to use bolting down the alu head. I´m told I can use the same torque as on the stock cast iron head. I know from other engines that the torque for alu heads usually are lower than for cast iron heads... Also I do not have new valve lifters available right now. Can I install a new cam using the "old" lifters, or will this ruin the new camshaft?
  13. I bought a camshaft using their online shop a few weeks ago. The cam was shipped the same day, and I received shipping info including the tracking no. on e-mail. Worked just fine.
  14. I need to replace the floor carpet in my D24 3-window coupe. Any tip for a good vendor?
  15. Answer from VPW: "Our performance cam has an increased duration but we do not alter the lift and it works well with the dual intake carburetors. The cam spec information is provided with the cam and we otherwise do not provide that information." Answer from VPW compare to the 260 dur / 410 lift: "Our duration is a little less but close and the lift is less. So many of the old engine heads have been milled several times and so you need to be careful with valve lift."
  16. Taking the 3-window coupe to the Hot Rod Hayride?
  17. Here are some pic´s of the my Tattersfield stuff. A bit on the expensive side, but seems to be in great shape after washing of decades of dust. The intake was complete including linkage, carbs & filters. :-) HellYeah
  18. Earl Egerton says "The cam I would recommend is 260 dur .410" lift. Its a mild cam but really wakes the engine up" when I asked for recommendation for a engine with 8 to 1 comp head, dual intake and dual exhaust for normal street use. I have now a cam core on it´s way to Edgy for regrinding.
  19. Thank you for your reply guys. I have also got an offer for a camshaft from one of the members :-)
  20. I'm looking for a camshaft for my 1947 Dodge 230 cui. Have been in contact with Edgy speedshop to regrind a cam, but need a good core. Since I live in Europe the best solution for me is to buy a core in the US and ship it to Edgy. Might need a little help here. I'm not shure if there are different design (read about early and late design, but not shure if the 1947 is early and late)? Or if anybody can help me lokate a good camshaft core? Thanx. HellYeah
  21. I believe the carburator used on this setup is a special type for pressurized applications.
  22. I met a guy here in Norway last summer with a -48 Dodge 3-window coupe. He told me he installed a turbo charger on his rebuilt 230 flathead 10 years ago. And it has been running smooth with no problem so far. The guy works for a turbo shop so turbo was the obvious choice for him. Ball bearing type turbo, pressurized carb and low boost pressure... I´ve contacted my local turbo shop and they told me the Mitsubishi type turbo used in the Volvo T5 might be a good choice for the flat six. But good oils supply for the bearings in the turbo is off course critical.
  23. Hereis an old advert for the Tattersfield stuff.
  24. Met a guy here in Norway last summer with a -48 Dodge 3-window coupe running a turbo charged 230 cid flathead. The guy told me he works for a turbo company and installing a turbo on the flathead was the obvious choice for him. The turbo installation was done 10 years ago and has been working just fine so far!
  25. Thank´s for the feed back on this one. Please note this seller is located in Norway, Europe. And so am I. Every thing car related are more expensive over here. I will say that $ 2000 equals a $ 1500 buy in the US. (25% tax and $100 to $120 shipping on top of the $ 1500) I guess installing this parts mostly will add to the cool factor. I think also it´s a good idea to make a sales contract regarding the parts being in undamaged condition. (I just learn the hard way after buying a "turn key" Ford flathead V8 from a running car. When I open it up the block was cracked all over and is not usable)
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