tctrkca1

I am redoing a 1945 230 eng that has given its all in the past, even oil pan had been hit hard enough that the oil pick up had been forced all the way up to the crankshaft. Surprising that more damage hadn't been done. I am installing an oil filter for the future but I do not know the name of the fitting that goes into the oil gallery. It has two outlets, one is full size and the second one is restricted. I am hoping that someone knows the name or part number for this fitting and will share, thanks.

Thanks. I knew that someone would have the answer. I could not find an answer on line or in the books I have. The books are factory manuals and were made before this sort of garbage was being used.

I am reinstalling a 1945 230 engine that I got in boxes. I didn't order parts but the came from Rockauto and there are two o'rings in a baggie that have a tag that says to cut and use to seal front crank seal cap??. Also in the parts kit is a large felt donut that doesn't appear to fit anything. Any ideas? Jim

Doe anyone know a supplier of ceramic or paper fuel filter elements for the Carter glass bottom filters?

I would like to be able to access some diaphragms for 1940 Mopar fuel pumps. New pumps are available but I only need the diaphragms as I have several new pumps that have sat on the shelf for fifty years and new gas will eat them up.

I am currently rebuilding a 228 eng and I required a set of rings that were .020. I couldn't find any anywhere. I ended up buying a set from Grant piston rings in Calif. I am in Canada and the freight bill was high but the problem was the oil rings wouldn't fit. They sent a three piece oil ring set that fit like a glove and a one piece oil ring that was too thick. Actual thickness was 0.156 ,5/32 exactly. The rings that I took off are.154 or two thousand under and I have a partial set that say 5/32 but are actually .154 just like the old ones. I called Grant and they say my pistons are odd and they will make new ones for more money. I have checked three different 3 3/8 sets of pistons and they are all the same. Please can someone check some other oil rings so I have something to go on. Email me directly. Jim

It would be fairly easy to pull one front wheel and check to see how the shoes are installed. If you have driven it a little there should be some marking on shoe and drum giving some indication how they are set up. If they are not familiar with the older technology it is a good chance the short shoe has been put on the secondary instead of primary side. To do a major adj without a tool is time consuming but possible. First back off adj at backing plate. Turn shoe anchor in proper direction, left front shoe clockwise and rear shoe counter clockwise until heel touches, turn reg adj until it touches. Repeat until shoe is in total contact with drum. Do secondary shoe the same way. When to set is done back off normal adj and do a normal adjustment.Tighten up anything you have loosened to do the adjustment. Do all four wheel the same and you have completed a major adj without the tool. To do the rear buy or rent the three legged puller you need to remove the drum. It was a wise decision on your part to purchase a manual. TCTRKCA1

Looking at the pictures I wouldn't think that the major adj has been done.The arrows are all looking at each other.The adj won't correct everything but it will add to the over all problem of poor brakes.

If you look at this picture the front shoe adj is way way out.If that much adj is needed the drum is worn out. The idea is to set the shoes to the drum.How does this set up measure the drum? Jim

I guess this won't convince everyone but here goes.Machine drum so it is true.Do a proper major adj.This is needed to center the shoes in the drum.The arcing is not needed for Mopar because if you look at the shoe as you turn the adj and you see the shoe drop down and out.The piston at the top has a slot to allow it.to .If you look at GM set you see a gooseneck with no ability to drop.This one has to be ground The factory manual says to do a major adj everytime you replace linings or turn drums.There is no reason to remove backing pllate as it doesn't have anything to do with giving full shoe contact.If you want to see how well this works it is easy to test.Take a fresh turned drum and new 3/16 thick linings and do a major adj.Remove the drum and put chalk dust on the shoe and reinstall.You will be a believer and you haven't ground any friction material away. Mine have been done this way and I have a rock hard pedal and brakes that will slide four wheels with little extra effort.I have shown several locals this way and made true believers out of them on how good these brakes can be.Jim

I didn't explain myself very well.This ring set has four rings per piston.Two compression rings and two oil rings.One oil ring is cast and one multi piece.Which of the oil rings goes on top cast or multi?Thanks Jim

The major adjustment would still be needed as it moves the shoes to the center of the drum eliminating any need to radius the shoes.That is why the book says that a major adj is needed everytime drums are cut or shoes are replaced. Jim C

When you move the anchor you move the shoe down and out.This centers the shoe back to the middle of the drum.I have done this on several units and I have the Aamco tool.I have found this to work just fine.If a slot is cut into the drum as some are from factory ,this also works but be careful as some are cast in such a way that the slot might weaken the face to drum attachment.The outer part is cast on to the mounting face plate.

The package of oil rings for a 230 has a cast ring and the three piece ring.Which one goes on top and why?