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wallacedw

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About wallacedw

  • Birthday 11/10/1966

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  • Biography
    Retired US Marine
  • Occupation
    Enjoying life

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  • Location
    Cedar, Kansas
  • Interests
    Gentleman rancher
  1. Had my issues with my 1 1/2 ton Dodge. Fuel, spark, etc.. Today it ran for the first time since I have had it home. Shut her down because the coolant hoses gave out a week or so ago. I was thinking, since the wiring is all junk anyway.. why not just pop a 12v instead of the 6 so i don't have to jump it everytime? The generator isn't putting juice into the battery anyway. Once I rewire it I will probably make it 12volts although the jury is still out on that one. I finally found the serial number stamped on the engine.. I was looking on the side and it was on top of the little piece it is supposed to be on. It looks like numbers have been filed out and then very clearly is stamped 53 space 568 space 93 . I am completely new to the 1948 Dodge 1 1/2 ton dually I just bought. It is a Model B-1-FA128, ser# 80325551. It has split gears and a PTO. There's no bed on it but I believe it may have been a dumptruck or something because it is short compared to a grain truck or something like that but I don't know. Anyway. It is a "Spitfire" engine with "1313826-2" and a diamond with NH (the left leg of the H is the right leg of the N). On the drivers side of the block about mid engine it has "49" and below that it has "2-16". On the pipe that runs fuel from the carb to the head it has "112170" with what may be a short slash in front of the first number. There is a raised piece similar to a rounded off bolt except it is part of the pipe. After that nipple it has "7". These are all the numbers I can find.
  2. It got worse... the crack I could deal with but I broke the float retaining whatever it is... it came apart actually. I am thinking of fabricating one from something. I know it is brass... maybe a brazing rod pounded flat then cut to fit. I am in very north central Kansas. Cedar to be exact. I have a 48 B-1-FA128 which i think may have been a dump truck. It is split rear, PTO equipped. It runs but sat so long that the fuel line got varnished and the bowl needle valve is toast. I replaced the fuel pump... now i see it pumping fuel. The picture of the carb is the older one. It IS a BBThis doesn't translate to any BB numbers I have found. Mine has a 6 (which is the only consistent number on the whole assembly so I think it is a series part number), then farther down the rib it has "E111" then a space then "D8". On the other side is lightly stamped a M8 (which is upside down and then 3L which is right side up. It LOOKS exactly like the one in the book. I got the rebuild kit from NAPA, (yes they sure helped me! Took a couple books but they figured out what it was) for $22. I will have to return it I suppose... I am thinking about fabricating my own float bowl retainer. Not sure how it would work. The other problem with putting it back together (I have only removed the air horn at present. My thought is to get the major broke items fixed (the fuel inlet needle valve and gasket) is the BB. It was laying in the right area but I don't know where it goes in that area.
  3. It is a crack but right now the problem is that the float retaining thingy broke. So I am thinking I'd like to get a rebuilt carburator. I think any carburator that'll work. I don't need an original... Idea's on where? There aren't any junkyards around here.
  4. I have a 48 Dodge B-1-FA with a Carter 1 barrel Ball & Ball Carberator. It has a hairline crack on the side of the fuel bowl cover. I have a rebuild kit. I think it will work as the exploded picture at NAPA looks like this setup. I can try to JB Weld the cover in case there is a leak. I don't know if it leaks, haven't had it running long enough to tell. I can't leave the crack because I would assume it could leak air in or fuel out... Can I buy just the top air horn AND how do I identify which one I have? http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetor_ID.htm That link shows the numbering system. Mine has E111 and then D8 one the support arm and W8 3L one the other side of the support arm.
  5. If you are going to tear down every component... why didn't you just rebuild it yourself? Or are you just looking for something to complain about and/or point at yourself as the resident expert/quality assurance representative? "In order to make the Asche transmission fit for my needs, I will be replacing approximately 40% of the internal parts so they equal or exceed the directives in the MOPAR factory service manuls I have on hand." I have no idea what your situation is exactly but it seems like you want a custom tranny for a general purpose price and then want to bash someone for it.... Again, why didnt you do it yourself?
  6. I have got a new fuel pump on and the engine will run (briefly) if the fuel bowl is filled from the vent or using starting fluid (will fire) so I am sure it is getting fuel to the carb and the ignition system is working. I am not sure if the needle valve controlling fuel to the bow is bad (I looked at it and the end rubber piece is pretty used. No cracks or anything but it is indented from a long life. The jets could be clogged. Or the float toatally useless. I am going to pull the top horn off to look into the bowl and see if I can do any good. So the big question is where can I get a rebuild kit and which one do I get? It looks just like the one in the shop manual but I can't find any part numbers or identifiers that will allow me to ask for a kit. I haven't had any luck identifying the engine. It has a Spitfire head but there isn't anything stamped in the serial number block on the front drivers side of the engine.
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