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3046moparcoupe

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Everything posted by 3046moparcoupe

  1. Hey fellow P15 owners, before I confiscate the two existing holes I just discovered on the drivers side inner fender just below the starter solenoid, to mount some circuit breakers. Maybe someone could tell me what there original purpose was for ? Each hole has a couple of threads (just like the punched in holes up on the drivers side shroud, by the core support, where the headlight t-blk mounts). They are about 2 inches apart, and are located a few inches below the rear (firewall) side of the starter solenoid. Just by the location, I'm guessing maybe some kind of support brkt that braces up the solenoid to starter cable ?? however, nothing was there on the car when I got it. I appreciate the help Steve
  2. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 Inner Fender hole Identification Question

    Thank you Tim and Ed. I appreciate your reply's back,....you both have helped me countless times over the past few years.... and I can appreciate what Tim is saying regarding a picture,...I will do that going forward,...as I'm looking for accurate reply's back, least I can do is my part to try and help insure that enough information is provided to allow that to be possible. Very good point,...not only smart, but wise.. These holes do match up with the hole spacing on the horn relay, and they are an exact physical match (where they just appeared to have punched the sheet metal inward, drilled a hole in the center and threaded the slightly over a 16th inch of curved in sheet metal around the hole, [ maybe 3-4 threads ], ) as the holes also up front on the drivers side shroud sheet metal where the headlight terminal strip mounts... Interesting that these 2 horn relay holes and the 2 holes up front for the headlight t-blk, fit a #6 metric screw perfectly....there must be an old machine screw thread that was a close match to a #6, as I sure wouldn't think they would have used anything metric on these cars originally. Thanks again forum friends.. Steve
  3. I'm wrapping up my wiring harness build and have one more correct decision to make regarding the power feed coming into the dash. I want to protect that 10 gauge wire coming straight from hot battery into the input side of the amp gauge, which then in turn goes on to power other parts of the dash electronics.. I'd rather use a fuse than a circuit breaker. My generator is rated for 35 amps max. The fuse panel I have is only rated for 30 amps max PER CKT. I've removed the amperage from my headlights coming into the dash (with an external relay), so there's 15 amps less than original design right there, I'm not going back with a radio of any kind, I also have a couple of other fused power feeds coming into the dash area for the 6vdc / 12vdc converter, so I also could use these feeds to power my heater blower motors, etc....so I will have much less amperage running through this wire than per the original design. So I've reduced my in dash amperage down to what should be well under the 30 amp rating max PER FUSE, of the fuse panel I'd like to use. But here's where I'm unsure on this,....let's say for some reason: battery condition, overall usage at a single given time, etc,....and the voltage regulator tells the generator to charge at its maximum of 35 amps....that 35 amps will be present on the hot side of the starter solenoid going back towards the battery,.....so it seems like it would also be sending 35 amps of power in towards the dash towards the amp meter on this 10 awg wire, which would cause my 30 amp fuse to blow. But when you hook up your main 6v cranking battery to that same hot side of the starter solenoid, again same wires...( which will probably be in the hundreds of amps - if cold cranking amps is anything the same as regular amps ? ) all of those cold cranking amps from the battery don't flood into the dash, obviously if they did, your 30 amp fuse on the headlight switch would blow, and your amp meter would just be pegged all the time. So is the purpose of the amp meter gauge : to tell you how many amps your generator is putting out ? , or to tell you how many amps your pulling/using into the dash area ? Does the max potential of 35 amps, just go as far as the amp meter itself ?? and if so, then the 30 amp fuse on that wire would NOT BE large enough... So before I commit , cut wires , and start adding stakon connectors,....I was hoping to confirm on this,. Again, I would like to fuse this wire from the solenoid with a 30 amp fuse,...but if that's gonna be too small, I'll go with a 40 amp ckt breaker... thanks for the help here on the forum, I'm pretty regular at needing help and asking questions,...and everyone here on the forum has been super good to send help my way. Steve
  4. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 Inner Fender hole Identification Question

    Thank you Dan, the horn relay on this car was mounted up by the horns themselves, centered between the horn mounting bracket, slightly in front of the top center of the core support. and I've since gone through and re-worked that area and left the relay there. Sounds like I can go ahead and use this spot for my circuit breakers. I appreciate the reply back on this. Many thanks. Steve.
  5. This past year I stumbled across a fella who had been mandrel bending large diameter stainless steel tubing here in the metroplex for years making custom exhaust, frames, roll cages, etc. Anyway - the fella said he was done but agreed to use the material he had left over on hand and bend up one more final system for my Plymouth project. I took him the old stock rusted steel exhaust system (before and aft of the muffler), and he bent up a complete new front to rear for me out of 304 stainless steel. Next step was to find a 2" I.D. 304 stainless 2 bolt flange to weld on to the exhaust to connect up to my exhaust manifold. Found one at Summit Racing, made by Vibrant Performance PP#VIB1470S. I'm not there yet, but when the time does come to bolt this new exhaust system to the car, I'll have to make a one shot decision on where to cut it, and how best to bolt up the ss flange of this exhaust system to the oem cast iron exhaust manifold. My concern here, is in regards to the dis-similar metals making contact and GALVANIC CORROSION. I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL INPUT FROM THE FORUM IN RESPECT TO THIS, SO PLEASE ALL INPUT IS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. As you can see in the attached pictures, the front section was bent to allow me to duplicate the way the oem pipe slid up inside the collector end of the exhaust manifold, by locating the flange down some on the vertical straight section of pipe going into the manifold. ( I've physically inserted the ss pipe up inside the exhaust manifold and you couldn't ask for a sweeter, more snug, fit. ) At present the exhaust manifold is painted with rattle can VHT exhaust manifold/header 1300-2000 degree high temp paint, and I do have a thin coat of paint inside the collector opening where the pipe would insert. In theory I suppose the paint should act as a barrier to prevent the stainless and the cast iron from coming into contact, but in the real world - I doub't that I'd bet the farm on that holding true. The manifold was cleaned up nicely when it was painted, and the paint will have had a few years to cure out, so that's a plus I suppose, but just the fact that on the description itself, which reflects a 700 degree variance window on how much heat the paint will handle ? seems odd to me , and kinda hard to believe...I'm just guessing here, but I'd guess that the manifold on this flat head six might run 600-700 degrees hot max ?? Maybe leave the input tube - but also sand off a few thousands off it, and also paint the exhaust input tube with this extreme high temp exhaust paint ?? I definitely like the idea of having the guide tube slip up inside the manifold for both pipe alignment and also for gasket alignment and longevity. Chrysler thought it was necessary and Walter was wat smarter than me But if it's gonna eat away at the female opening of my exhaust manifold, I need to try and find another way to mate this up. Thoughts I've had in regards to trying to keep these metals separated are as follows: 1: Eliminate the section of tube that inserts into the manifold and cut the pipe off flush with the top of the flange (maybe only leave a 32nd or so of pipe above the flange, just enough for the exhaust manifold gasket to center on),...and depend on the 2ea exhaust manifold bolts to hold the exhaust centered and in place. This would eliminate the ss of the exhaust from touching the cast iron manifold, due to the manifold gasket seperating the two....my exhaust bolts would be the only steel touching both surfaces,....and easy enough to replace when necessary. But - you'll see that the 2ea bolt holes in the new ss flange are both slotted rather than spot on round holes. In my mind spot on round holes might do a better job in keeping the exhaust in place, and I suppose these slots could be welded up and re-drilled in effort of achieving that. Maybe un-necessary, don't know - I do not have the experience, maybe someone out there can share back with me on this ? 2: I had thought about not using the oem style flange gasket and trying to use a donut gasket, ( if I could find one the correct size) it would keep the metals separated and the donut gasket would keep the setup centered in place, but - I can also see where I would be restricting the size of the exhaust pipe down as the donut gasket would need to have a smaller ID to stay in position and seal... There's lots of talent and experience here on the forum,i truly appreciate those of you whom are willing to, and whom have, shared it with me. Your thoughts ? Thanks again, Steve
  6. Found this toggle switch on the internet. Says it's rated for 35Amps 6volt or 20Amps 12volt. I was under the false impression I guess, that amps we're amps, and a switch wouldn't know the difference between 12v or 6v. The switch is made by Pollak, and I spoke with their tech support individual to confirm if this was a misprint, and he didn't hesitate for a minute to say that the rating was accurate, and that this was one of their most popular toggle switches. I tried surfing the internet to possible find any info regarding switch ratings and really didn't come up with much, other than folks recommending going by the mfg specs. I did find some good info on the difference in ratings for switches that are AC (alternating current) rated,and DC (direct current) rated...and the fact that how a switch used for DC power must be heavier built and has a tougher life due to the basic difference in the way current flows between AC and DC...Never had thought about that before, but often a switch can be flipped on an AC circuit, and experience almost zero arc, due to the current alternating between + and -, course this never happens with DC... I also tried attaching the mfg's spec sheet to this post, which also shows the switch to be rated for 35 amps at 6V, and 20 amps at 12V. QUESTION: Does this heavier amp rating for 6v sound correct and make sense to you electrical wizards out there ? thanks again, Steve 33-300_d.tif
  7. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    found this over on the HAMB web site: "So, if you double the voltage, the amperage will be halved for the same total power.When you're dealing with DC power, you would want a breaker with a voltage rating at least equal to, or higher than, the voltage of your system. If you find breakers rated for 12V, or 24V, either of them should be fine for your 6V system. However, a 6V rated breaker could give you problems if you used it in a 12V system."
  8. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    Thanks plymouthy, yes Sir, I see where the formula for watts is (amps x volts = watts),...so , 6v x 35 amps = 210 watts, and 12v x 20 amps = 240 watts. 6v systems run higher amperage than 12v systems, so they utilize heavier gauge wiring. Seems like the same would apply for the switch contacts handling the amperage as well. But according to the rating of this switch, the opposite is actually true... I apologize for being short a few amps/watts myself upstairs, but this correlation is throwing me a curve. I'm sure it's correct or I know you'd have pointed it out, so I'll start reading to find the answer to get this straight in my head. Steve..
  9. I was fortunate in having the original wiring harness still in place on this car when we started this project. So I carefully removed it one conductor at a time and labeled things. That said, I think I should be on the correct path here, but I would appreciate the confirmation back before I just start trying to make this fit. Almost got the entire under dash wired, and just tried to insert the bulb socket ( I had identified as belonging to the high beam indicator light above the instrument cluster on top of the dash ), and it seems like the diameter of the round bulb socket finger opening is about the same size as the diameter of the high beam barrel sleeve. Doesn't want to readily slide over the barrel sleeve and doesn't want to insert inside the barrel hole like the other dash light bulb sockets. The socket fingers don't look to be out of shape / bent irregularly / etc. ..fairly round and uniform to my eye... it's been 3 years since I removed this harness, so heck if I can remember how this socket came off. My guess is that it does grab from the outside of the barrel tube (slides over if you will rather than inserts into it), and the fact that I've painted the socket receptacle barrel is what's causing the interference. Figured It would be wise to try and confirm with the forum if possible before proceeding with a bit of force on this. Is this the correct high beam indicator light bulb socket, for a P15 ? Does it slide over the fixture barrel sleeve with the fingers grabbing from the outside ? Thank you all again for the continued help, here on the forum. I do appreciate it. You realize as your working to put things back together, how many ground contact surfaces you've painted over...:) I'll have my work cut out for me getting a good ground everywhere it has to be around this dash area...!! Steve
  10. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Hello Bob, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures for me,...….I have the exact same orange parts book who show here (man I love that parts manual. It has been an incredible asset in searching for parts and pieces,....I treat it like gold :), I've also got the exact same motors repair manual, and I've got the same Plymouth ( red, white & gray) service manual you show. Only one I don't have that you show is the two tone red Plymouth service manual you show, and mention that it is the next best book in your opinion.....Is that manual where the diagrams you attached in this post showing the instrument cluster detail, came from ? Thanks for your help Steve
  11. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Many thanks guys, especially Bob's pictures,...I sure would be interested in getting my hands on whatever old Plymouth manual those pictures came from, incredible detail,...seriously I'd like to know so I can be on the lookout through ebay, etc... Yep, that second bulb socket I have (see attached pic #2 to this post), looks like an exact match for what Bob's pics show. I went out and tried it and it snapped in place nice and firm, so I went to splice it onto my new wire and started cut back into the cloth wire to find black corroded copper, cut a little farther, still dark and nasty looking, finally ended up just removing the original cloth wire pigtail from the incorrect socket and using it. Worked like a champ. I stumbled on this yesterday, ( surprised I hadn't noticed it before, as much as I've looked at the P15 wiring diagram in my manual). it shows an extra light bulb wired off the dash light switch labeled as "speedometer light",...so all together it shows : two instrument/gauges light bulbs, one ignition sw. light bulb, a high beam indicator light bulb, and a speedometer light bulb. Unless I'm blind in one eye and can't see out of the other, my speedometer assembly has no hole for a bulb socket in it,....just the two each larger bulb holes on each side of the gauges/speedo assembly, so I've got a total of 3 light bulbs wired off of my dash light switch, (not four as the manual shows). Thank you all again for the tremendous help and support here on the forum. Steve
  12. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Ron, I looked back at my manual - and you are correct, it does show them as being "black"...I was seeing them as a very dark brown,...must be a combination of age and dirt that made them look dark brown to me.,..but absolutely Yes, black is the correct spec for the dash light wiring harness color. Good eye there Thanks for your input, you always add value and I appreciate it.
  13. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Thank you Andy, Ed and Rob. Pretty amazing the story these old cars can tell as you work your way through their pieces and parts. Ed, your wiring harness pic is especially helpful in that it shows me your socket connector and also something regarding wiring color code. Your harness (just like mine) has a total of 4ea instrument /dash light bulb sockets. Two that are larger for both sides of the instrument cluster, and two that are smaller that light up the key hole and the high beam indicator. Just like yours, my smaller 3 wire socket harness that connects the two large gauge lights and the key hole light are all wired together to a single stakon connector that connects to the dash light switch, using 14 awg brown wire. My smaller socket harness was in perfect condition so I re-used it, so it was impossible for me to get any part of this smaller harness confused. This 14awg brown wire color also matches the color code shown for these cars in the wiring schematics. Per the wiring schematics the 14 awg wire to the high beam indicator light is supposed to be orange. That color also looks to be a match for what you have on your high beam indicator wire and is a match for what I had on my high beam indicator wire shown in the picture I attached to the beginning of this post. An orange wire with a broken blue hash mark line which codes the wire as 14 awg… Pretty interesting that my high beam indicator wire was not cut or spliced anywhere, but had this odd ball bulb socket on it. Seems like it would be difficult for the socket to get damaged, requiring replacement, when the remainder of the sockets are so perfect...and if it was replaced, I guess it would have been easy enough for someone to cut off the crimped contact on the end, replace the socket, and crimp on a new contact.....as Rob stated in the previous post, him recognizing the bulb socket as a Chinese aftermarket sure may be the answer as to how it got there. With this socket being hard to reach, maybe someone broke a finger or two off the original and did this as a replacement. I was beginning to think that maybe the factory just grabbed whatever they had the day the car was coming through the line..:) Anyway - Ed after seeing your picture (thank you again), I have a spare bulb socket that came with an ignition switch assembly that I bought off of Ebay. My original ignition switch was worn and sloppy internally and sometimes the key would try to hang , etc....when I got the replacement ignition switch - they had just cut off all the wires going to the switch rather than undo them, and I also got the bulb socket that lights the key hole. Again brown 14 awg wire on this socket. I've attached a picture of this socket to this reply. From what I can tell in your wiring harness pic you sent, this looks like what you have attached to your high beam indicator light. Would you mind taking a quick look to compare and let me know back ?, and it would also be helpful if you could look on our end to see if your high beam bulb socket and your key hole socket measure the same dimension. From the picture they sure look the same but I suppose if one were slightly different in size I wouldn't be able to tell from just looking at a pic. Kinda stand to reason that there should not be an in-between, or slightly smaller size, as I believe there were just two size bulbs, standard bayonet and mini bayonet.. Thank you all again for the help. Steve
  14. When we got our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project it had two of everything (two heater cores), (two blower motor assemblies), etc...the main (larger unit) was connected to the fresh air box on the passenger side and it contains the mechanism/doorway to adjust between heater and defrost...the smaller unit hung off the fresh air box on the drivers side and strictly served as a heater for the interior cab of the car. Over the past few years of learning here on the forum, I've come to know this setup as being the deluxe heater assy for these old mopar cars. When I was taking this all apart, everything looked factory to me,..EXCEPT,...some of the holes in the firewall where the heater core in/out tubes connect through the firewall, looked like they were cut out with a hammer and a chisel, (actually not that bad - but uneven oblong shaped holes with some pretty rough cuts. This made me wonder if an individual had done the upgrade themselves or if possible a small dealership had done it, etc… who knows, only time I suppose....:) All that said, and with things now going back together, here's my brain fart/question for the day in regards to all this. For you guys and/or gals out there who have the dual heater setup. Would not the heater on/off switch also need to be upgraded to power the additional motor ? I'm wondering if I've got the correct heater motor switch for this dual setup. Any way to identify and know for sure ? or was there just a single switch offered that was capable of carrying everything from the budget heater assy up to the deluxe version ? I went through the switch that was in this car, and cleaned up the internal contact surfaces and greased it, however I don't believe there is any kind of identifying part number on the thing. It does have two (2) ceramic cylinder shaped resistors on the switch for low and high I would suppose. Thought it might be wise to run this by you folks with experience, as I definitely don't need any electrical issues like this later on, especially with one of the larger amp draw electrical accessories like the blower motors. Thanks so much for the help. This forum is exceptional. Steve
  15. 3046moparcoupe

    heater switch ? for deluxe dual heater setup in P15

    DB4ya, as mentioned in my original post,....yes sir - my heater switch has two resistor coils, each encased inside it's own tubular ceramic shell,.... as previously mentioned, I was thinking it was for multiple speeds,...but now that you have shed light on this,....if there's only a "low" and a "high", why would there be a resistor for the high speed ? there wouldn't be one , would there ? low speed for each motor would use the resistors, then the high speed would run off the 6v direct to each motor - by-passing the resistors completely. Once again, I show my failing mental capacity this getting old thing stinks !! I would think that in a few weeks , when I extend the wiring harness in and under the dash and wire the switch up, that this would have made itself evident in my head, but none the less - I know now whats up, and it's very much appreciated on this end. Yes sir, thank you again DB4ya...I appreciate your efforts to take the time to set me on the straight path, once again.. Steve
  16. I'm finishing up the last of the install of the fresh air box back into the car (46 P15 Club Coupe). I took the attached two pics a few years back before pulling it all out. These two pics show both ends of the spring associated with the lower rectangular fresh air door, and how it was attached when I took this all apart. Top end of the spring would seem correct as it anchors to a hole in the linkage brkt. The bottom end of the spring was just anchored around the handle push rod. I'm wondering if this is correct ? I don't really see any other available holes, etc..but again, if I'm missing a part - it wouldn't be the first time If anyone can confirm from these pics if this looks correct, or if anyone possible has an oem diagram layout, or can take a pic, etc...it would be greatly appreciated.. many thanks. Steve
  17. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    Pretty amazing - the level of help one can get here on the forum. Thanks again to you all who have been so good to help me over the past 4 years.
  18. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    DB4ya, THANK YOU !! This should fix me up...looks like I've got all the parts (the short clevis pin and the small L brkt.) this makes more sense,.. (the push/pull arm from the door itself, one end of the spring, and the small "L" brkt, all slide onto the clevis pin, which is anchored through the bottom hole of the main swivel brkt. and the opposite end of the spring anchors to the upper hole of the main swivel brkt. Then the push rod runs from the small "L" brkt over to the handle and the main dash support beam.) That second picture really shows it all well. You are the goodz. Thanks for taking the time and effort to get these pics to me so quick. Steve
  19. Built our new wiring harness and have it coming through the firewall laying in the floor of the cab. Figured I better get the fresh air box back in place, and all the switches and gauges mounted up before I selected my harness route and started making 2nd end wire cuts and crimps. I've got more hours than I probably should have put into this fresh air box/heater assembly, originally mine was spot welded together in places and screwed together in others. I drilled pilot holes and used steel rivets where the parts were originally spot welded...(which allowed me to paint 100% of each part prior to assembly). I guess this method has offered up some success, but the way this all sandwiches together, it's a bit dis-heartening to watch your paint get knocked off as many of the parts are too tight a fit due to the paint being there....anyway - pound to fit and then paint to match with your touch up brush ( I used high temp rattle can engine enamel on this, and I've found when I need touch up, if I'll spray some in a cup and let it sit for a bit, to let the carrier solvent evaporate away, you can then brush it on to touch up - with better results and coverage.) Wanted to ask you guys with the experience out there,....about my blower motors. This old P15 club coupe had the dual heater cores and blower setup in it....(I've come to believe since working on the car that someone added the second blower.duct/etc....I don't believe it came from the factory this way),....anyway - my plan has been to leave it the way it was and go back with the dual heaters.. My original fresh air box was badly eaten up, so I purchased a spare dual assembly I found on ebay and had lots of parts to work with...took the cleanest of whatever and started working to go back with it. Ended up with 2 heater cores that don't leak and are way cleaner than what I took out of our car, and now have a total of 6ea blower motors. Not too long ago, someone shared with me, (and it makes sense if you think about it), in the dual heater assembly setup, you have a blower motor that turns left hand and a blower motor that turns right hand. Out of these 6 motors, 4ea are RH and 2ea are LH, and the corresponding fan cages also have the slots pointing in opposing directions when you compare a LH to a RH...However when you look at the offset allen screw that attaches the cage to the shaft, it appears that the same squirrel cage is used for both, it's just turned 180 degrees one way or the other when installed....THAT LEADS ME TO MY QUESTION I WAS HOPING TO FURTHER MY EDUCATION ON HERE ON THE FORUM,....So far I've only been able to get one of these squirrel cages off without destroying it, and on that one I took a pair of pliers and held the shaft near the motor, grabbed the cage with my free hand and slowly began twisting it,...magic !! it came right off (course I'd already removed the allen screw),...tried it again on motor #2, and no dice,....even pulled the gorilla tape off my channel lock pliers to get a bit more bite on the shaft and still no luck,....at that point, since I had six of these cages, I cut the cage off the motor shaft. A bit easier said than done, actually I used by hand grinder and a thin cut off disc and slowly ground the wheel hub off. I used my fingers on the motor shaft as a heat sink and thermometer to tell me when to stop grinding as when I would feel any increase in temp on the shaft at my fingers I would stop and wait a few minutes to let the shaft cool back down, and go again, etc, etc...until I got the hub off the shaft... Anyone out there got any tricks on how to get these squirrel cages off the motor shafts without botching things up ? Also, (and this is something is respect to what I just learned from Plymouthy Adams here a few weeks back),...since these heater blower motors appear to be built with field coils, the internal wiring leads should be able to be reversed, changing the rotation direction of the motor, which would allow a RH motor to become a LH fairly easily... So if I could get these cages off the motor shafts, then go through the motors, and select the best two motors, revers the leads if necessary to make one LH rotation, and then install the squirrel cages clocked either for a LH or a RH rotation,...I should be good to go ?? I THINK Actually, I'd like to get all these motors in as good a shape as possible for future use for me or someone. I'm finding 6v motors out there, but there all for Chevy or Ford. There may be other differences as well, but just at a glance I can see that the shafts don't look near long enough for our mopar stuff. All these motors spin. I tested them today using a 6v lantern battery. Some better than others. I took the bottom cap off two and had quite a bit of fun figuring out how to get the brushes back in place and the caps back on, but finally I managed to accomplish it..once I got the cage off a motor and I had the end cap off as well, I would have though that I could push the armateur out the bottom of the motor but it would not come out. I was hoping I could get to the top bearing, anyone out there know ? do you have to drill those little rivets out to get it to separate ? I wish the parts book showed something on the heater assembly, the shop manual has an overview but nothing detailed..
  20. Was looking at my new gas tank straps and the short welds down the sides of the end fittings on both straps looked a little bit sparse. So thought I'd spend a half day and weld them in a bit better, make sure I got some penetration, and them dress them up with my grinder, and top coat them off with some POR-15 gloss black. Got out my trusty little 110ac flux core wire welder and ran a bead around all four end fittings, then took out the grinder and started cleaning up the welds to smooth them out so I could get a descent coat of paint on them that has a chance at sticking. At that point, it hit me,...that it may not have been a good idea to have welded across the area of the strap where the end fitting joint is close to the bend in the strap, (see attached pictures 1 and 2),...I wish my mind would/could move as quick as my body does,...seems like I catch myself doing this over and over,..second guessing myself once somethings done....anyway - this is too critical a thing to guess on or make assumptions about,... So any of you welding guys out there, with experience - I'd appreciate the feedback and input,....once again, I hope my question makes sense here,...I'll repeat it. Originally each end fitting (whether it was the threaded bolt end or the bent sheet metal tab end shown in the pictures) had about 1/2-3/4" of weld down each side of the fitting, I came back along and finished the welding down each side, but also welded across the butt end of the fittings where the fitting connects to the strap about 2 inches down on to the strap,....wondering if that last weld across the strap might have not been a good idea in regards to any effects the welding might have on the strap metal itself ?? Especially on the fitting end shown in pictures 1 and 2, where that horizontal weld was about a half inch away from the fabricated bend in the strap... Thanks in advance for the help.. Steve
  21. 3046moparcoupe

    Bad Reproduction Fender Stone Guards on Ebay

    Jiffyjet/Mike W.,...I was just curious who covered the shipping costs to send that 1st scratched tank that got replaced back to the vendor,...thxs Steve
  22. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Ed, here's what I did to get the brushes back in place. The 1st couple of times I did this, I used 2ea pieces of masking tape (about 3" long each) and once I had the brush push back in place in the holder, I laid the masking tape down over the top of the brush holder, across the end of the brush and then let about 1/8 inch or so try to stick to the inside of the end cap, ( in the small area between the brush holder and your bushing hole), then I would have a few inches hanging outside the end cap to grab later.. I was amazed that the spring tension was not so strong that the tape actually held the brush inside the holder well enough for me to get the end cap in place, then once the end cap was about 75% on, I'd pulled the tape out. I used this method about 1/2 dozen times as I was playing with these motors, and it worked pretty well, (never seemed to damage a brush that I could tell - never got one caught up) a few hiccups (once the tape tore and left some inside so I had to start over, once the tape wasn't quite holding well enough (probably a little oil or something), so I used a second piece of tape on that one and also taped the wire to the brush down in place , which worked..(was kinda hating to treat the brushes that way, but this good yellow 3m tape isn't supposed to and doesn't seem to leave any residue, etc).....but then, after a bit of this...., once I noticed that I had about a 1/2" or so of sliding up and down movement in the internal armature of the motor, I found that I could slide the armature shaft down as far as it wanted to go, and it gave me enough clearance that I could actually get the end of the shaft started in the bushing hole of the end cap, with the brushes just loosely taped back into the holders, then I could reach in with a tooth pick and gentle push the brush back into the holder, kinda one at a time to make room for the brushes to move back far enough to clear that little grease shield and rest on the commutator surface...this allowed me to remove the tape much quicker than before while the gap between the end cap and motor housing was still open a bit. Seemed to work a lot better. That moving the armature down and just getting that extra 1/2" or so was huge in having just a little room to work....hope this makes sense..... Eneto - I don't know why the motors Ed and I have, don't have a little hole in them in the end cap, where you can use a paper clip wire to hold the brushes in place, it sure would be easier, but these end caps on these motors just have screw holes that don't align up, and little rivet holes that are full of rivet heads Ed, I was able to get 2 cages off the motor shafts last night....they pulled easy, after standing them up vertically and letting PB Blaster sit in them for the day. I was seeing the blaster dis-appear all through the day, (So I took a paper towel and wrapped it around the shaft where it meets the motor housing jut to keep that stuff from going down inside the motor), anyway last night, I went ahead and gave each a twisty and they came right off....these 2 motors are going to ft Worth generator in the next few minutes.....I've still got 2 however, they so far - after a day of soaking - the Blaster is still just sitting there...not much choice but to continue I suppose - as you mentioned earlier, and be patient.... You know I'll help ya out with one of these motors. I don't know what they'll charge me, (so far they've been super reasonable), so let me see how many I end up with, etc...but I won't forget ya on this... Steve'o
  23. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Eneto, you can trust Ed to speak the truth, he doesn't speak out unless he's for sure,...and he knows the P15 cars well....so we both learned something here....thanks again Ed,.. Ed, yeppurs, I just got back from Oreilley's, and it was a toss up, between the new Wd-40 professional, the old faithful PB -Blaster, and another I'd never seen before, free up Rust, or something like that,...anyway - I went with the PB Blaster, I've used it before (course they probably pretty much all got the same stuff in em), anyway - here we go....and you are correct, (I didn't know this, Plymouthy taught me this a few weeks back), motor with permanent magnents, swap the input power polarity, motor changes direction,......motor with field coils, swap the input power polarity motor doesn't change directions, you have to reverse the wiring at the field coils,...but in regards to that, I just noticed something this morning about the 6ea motors I have,....4ea RH and 2ea LH,....the LH motors are a bit smaller in physical size, the blower box/core/etc on the LH size is also a bit smaller than the RH side,....(not that a RH motor wouldn't bolt up to the smaller core box, but I did wonder if the slightly larger motor might draw a few more amps, etc...anyway - since I've got both I'm gonna try to go back with the smaller motor on the LH side and the larger on the RH side, the way it appears Mopar did it......so far I was able to g et a cage off of one of each flavor motor, so I took both of them over to Randy at fort Worth Starter and Generator,...to go through them,...he said he'd go completely through them, put new wires on , new grommets, etc...so we'll see....they've been there forever and have 100% positive reviews, and they've always been super reasonable and done great work for me, so I may just get all these motors done depending on how pricey it turns out to be... Oil Soup, I'd sure like to get new heater cores, even though these I have aren't stopped up, and they look clean, how close are they to having pin holes, etc...on the inside ?....I just wouldn't think there'yd be a snowballs chance in finding a core that would exit and enter through the firewall where it needed to work with these boxes without a lot of modification,....I guess you can't have your cake and eat it to ,..huh ? I'll do some research on the cores available and see what I can find...thank you for the input..
  24. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Eneto, yes you are correct. On this dual heater setup one faceplate reads Comfort Master and the other reads Mopar Model 54. A year or so back I also purchased a spare dual heater/fresh air box assembly off ebay that was a match for this one, ( face plates read the same thing), when it arrived it had a tag on it that said it had been removed from a 1941 Dodge. Last week, I picked up a single heater unit from a fellow over in Plano. he said it came out of a P15 Coupe that he used to own. Anyway, it's the larger heater box that has the doorway for the heater to vent cable control and the 2ea outlets for your 2inch defrost vent hoses.....being just a single unit it just reads comfort master on the faceplate....but all these I have and have seen are identical in that, the outer oval shaped box that your blower motor squirrel cage stabs into, is screwed together,..but the inner duct - inside the oval shaped box that routes the air, is spot welded into the interior of the oval box, (hope that makes sense).. I would agree with you, I does sound like you have a heater from an older yr model. I believe the standard single heater unit for a P15 would be just like the larger unit on the left side of the picture I attached here. and it would mount to the interior firewall on the passenger side. Maybe someone with more experience here on the forum will comment and post as to whether we are thinking correctly here, but from what I've seen - I believe this is correct. Steve
  25. Seems to me like there can be only one obvious answer to this question, but you folks whom might have come to know me here on the forum know that I just can't stand to be in doubt or to assume in regards to much of anything, so here we go. Picked up a clean headlight switch, factory correct part for the car (P15) see attach pic #3 100-5297 jpg. Requires the bullet connectors on the 4ea output feeds coming off the switch itself. On the original wiring harness I removed from the car (I've realized how lucky I was in that the harness had been taped up so the colors were extremely well preserved except for around the ends, and the harness had not been cut up too badly, only in that someone had replaced the original headlight switch with a 2 position toggle switch and the high low beam switch had been replaced with an aftermarket that required spade connectors), see attached pic #100-5293.jpg. Having the electrical schematic drawings in the manual, and the original harness almost all intact, has really allowed me to move forward with confidence in duplicating what I need with fresh wiring and connectors from stem to stern,....interesting that Mopar had a dash mark legend on the wires themselves, (a broken hash mark line tat ran the length of the wire), as follows: 16 ga = one single dash mark, 14 ga = a double dash mark (like an = symbol angled at a 45 degree angle down the wire), 12 ga = a triple dash mark symbol, and 10 ga had no dash mark - but was just the solid color of the wire. I made the decision to just run 14 awg everywhere 16awg was all that was actually required. so I didn't have to purchase reels of both the 14 and 16 awg…..so I need to run 2ea 12awg wires with the bullet connectors and 2ea 14 awg wires with the bullet connectors from my headlight switch.... I was lucky in that the original bullet connectors were still in the wiring harness (when the replaced the headlight switch with the toggle switch and the h/l beam switch they didn't cut the original bullets off, they used a female bullet barrel and pig-tailed off the original bullet connectors). So today, I took my soldering iron and removed the old solder and wires from the bullet connectors, see attached pic #2 100-5295.jpg.....some of the connectors had 12 ga wire soldered into them, some had 16 ga, 14ga...etc....and I didn't pay much attention as I removed the solder and wire other than trying not to get burned by the tip of that iron. Once I was finished, I was proud of my oem mopar butt connectors, thinking I have the right size connectors, with the correct angle on the butt, oem parts that were made to go together - yahoo !! success....then I looked down the barrel of each connector and the round hole opening for each connector appeared to be exactly the same size....yet I had just removed some factory 12 awg wire from a couple of these butt connectors..??? So I stepped over and stripped a short end section of my new 12awg flex wire, and of course it wouldn't stick up inside the freshly cleaned barrel hole of the butt connector..... So I'm guessing here, (unlike when you crimp on a terminal end and you try to be as careful as possible not to cut into your wires when removing the sheathing), that I need to do (and what the factory must have done) is to remove enough strands so that the 12ga wire will fit through the hole in the butt connector, then solder it up...?? Never having seen this before, I was expecting to find different size hole openings in the different butt connectors, gauging them for the different wire sizes, but from what I'm seeing here on my harness - that is not the case ?? Reaching out to you mopar electrical guru's who have been there , done it, and got the t-shirt to prove it....for confirmation about this, before I move forward.... thanks again, my forum friends..Steve
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