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3046moparcoupe

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Everything posted by 3046moparcoupe

  1. Seems to me like there can be only one obvious answer to this question, but you folks whom might have come to know me here on the forum know that I just can't stand to be in doubt or to assume in regards to much of anything, so here we go. Picked up a clean headlight switch, factory correct part for the car (P15) see attach pic #3 100-5297 jpg. Requires the bullet connectors on the 4ea output feeds coming off the switch itself. On the original wiring harness I removed from the car (I've realized how lucky I was in that the harness had been taped up so the colors were extremely well preserved except for around the ends, and the harness had not been cut up too badly, only in that someone had replaced the original headlight switch with a 2 position toggle switch and the high low beam switch had been replaced with an aftermarket that required spade connectors), see attached pic #100-5293.jpg. Having the electrical schematic drawings in the manual, and the original harness almost all intact, has really allowed me to move forward with confidence in duplicating what I need with fresh wiring and connectors from stem to stern,....interesting that Mopar had a dash mark legend on the wires themselves, (a broken hash mark line tat ran the length of the wire), as follows: 16 ga = one single dash mark, 14 ga = a double dash mark (like an = symbol angled at a 45 degree angle down the wire), 12 ga = a triple dash mark symbol, and 10 ga had no dash mark - but was just the solid color of the wire. I made the decision to just run 14 awg everywhere 16awg was all that was actually required. so I didn't have to purchase reels of both the 14 and 16 awg…..so I need to run 2ea 12awg wires with the bullet connectors and 2ea 14 awg wires with the bullet connectors from my headlight switch.... I was lucky in that the original bullet connectors were still in the wiring harness (when the replaced the headlight switch with the toggle switch and the h/l beam switch they didn't cut the original bullets off, they used a female bullet barrel and pig-tailed off the original bullet connectors). So today, I took my soldering iron and removed the old solder and wires from the bullet connectors, see attached pic #2 100-5295.jpg.....some of the connectors had 12 ga wire soldered into them, some had 16 ga, 14ga...etc....and I didn't pay much attention as I removed the solder and wire other than trying not to get burned by the tip of that iron. Once I was finished, I was proud of my oem mopar butt connectors, thinking I have the right size connectors, with the correct angle on the butt, oem parts that were made to go together - yahoo !! success....then I looked down the barrel of each connector and the round hole opening for each connector appeared to be exactly the same size....yet I had just removed some factory 12 awg wire from a couple of these butt connectors..??? So I stepped over and stripped a short end section of my new 12awg flex wire, and of course it wouldn't stick up inside the freshly cleaned barrel hole of the butt connector..... So I'm guessing here, (unlike when you crimp on a terminal end and you try to be as careful as possible not to cut into your wires when removing the sheathing), that I need to do (and what the factory must have done) is to remove enough strands so that the 12ga wire will fit through the hole in the butt connector, then solder it up...?? Never having seen this before, I was expecting to find different size hole openings in the different butt connectors, gauging them for the different wire sizes, but from what I'm seeing here on my harness - that is not the case ?? Reaching out to you mopar electrical guru's who have been there , done it, and got the t-shirt to prove it....for confirmation about this, before I move forward.... thanks again, my forum friends..Steve
  2. 3046moparcoupe

    butt connectors / whats the deal, pickle :)

    I appreciate the reply back Dennis, glad it's worked out for you - and hopefully it will continue to,...I have read information regarding this and can't help but see in my mind how it would make sense to be true. My problem with soldering and crimping, (especially soldering the wire before you crimp it) is that the crimp tries to crush the solder, and if it doesn't crush the solder it can try to break the wire in its effort to crush the solder as you crimp the connection,.... there's some information out there on this in regards to aviation and marine electrical wire connection standards... I have built complete wiring harnesses back in my boating days, when we ran the flat bottom jets drive boats, and never had a single connection come apart (using crimp only), and flat bottom jet drives take a pretty good pounding on the water and a lot of vibration just about 100% of the time....the key (and I am quoting a good friend of mine here on the forum who has helped me like no other), is in the quality of your crimp tool. Thanks for your reply to help and best of luck your way.
  3. 3046moparcoupe

    butt connectors / whats the deal, pickle :)

    Thank you so much again everyone for all your excellent feedback and posts. Every single post response on this was helpful to me, I really appreciate it. In response to the great reply's back, I would greatly prefer to use crimp over solder as I now have a good T&B crimp tool and using it in combination with the good connector terminals that have the built on 3m adhesive heat shrink makes for a beautiful secure connection. But with these bullet connectors (and I read and would definitely agree with one of Plymouthy's old posts on this, the bullet seems like a real good place for trouble, so one needs to pay close attention to what's going on there, corrosion, etc..) When I looked at the modern bullets I was finding, they were all crimp on, none had their own heat shrink and they all had those large yellow hard plastic sleeves (that's OK, I can add my own heat shrink, it doesn't fit as nicely over the hard plastic sleeves after you crimp and maybe I'll just remove the hard plastic before I crimp), but also the physical size of these male bullet heads themselves were all over the place, and all were larger than what I had here on this harness, all those bullet heads also appeared (when I looked at the pics of them on the computer) to have a split in them (a seam if you will), where the metal was rolled to form the head of the bullet (rather than like these old connectors that are a solid chunk of material),..made me wonder if the modern bullets would remain tight in the female barrel,etc... So knowing me and the way I over analyze things, it seemed somewhat like a no brainer to just use the original bullets used at the factory, then I discovered the hole size issue, and ran to my forum buds for help and direction. I would agree again with Plymouthy, removing any strands sure doesn't set right with me, (course your gauge wire is sized to carry your amperage load with a minimal voltage drop, in telecom it was equal to or less than a 1% allowable voltage drop),...so you use a 12 gauge wire to carry your amps say 5 ft on a 10ft loop feet run, ( having a 1/4 inch of your wire trimmed down to 14 gauge at the bullet connector is not gonna be the kiss of death, and the fact that I'm using a marine gauge flex wire (with more physical surface area / circla mills / in respect to standard wire with fewer - but larger individual strands), also helps in respect to this - but still - it's definitely not good practice and especially with it being on the feeder end of the power run, so I also am not comfortable in doing that.. After receiving all the great reply's back, (it really helps to know that many of you have used modern bullet connectors and have not had any issues), I'm gonna proceed accordingly: I do shop a lot on ebay, and typically I just won't buy from a Chinese seller (not so much in that it's because the part is from China, we all know how that goes these days), but because as the fella above mentioned, it either takes forever, (or in my case, I just never get the item),...but I'm gonna go look for the connectors he spoke of.....and I'm also gonna go visit my napa guy "Jay" and see what they have in the line of bullet connectors... This forum is the best, thank you all so much. I really appreciate you all for taking the time to read through my long post and to reply back. Nice hearing from some new folks out there this time, and Plymouthy, Ed and Andy,...you guys have been helping me like a brother for years now..your like family, that's how much this all means to me and how much I appreciate everyone's help. Steve'o
  4. I currently have 2ea of the Mopar # 990547 head light switches I picked up off ebay over the last few years, both are clean (I've been inside them and have cleaned the contacts and greased them with electrical grease). However today, I noticed in my P15 OEM parts book, that the car was shown to come with a Mopar # 910507 headlight switch. Switches look to be very similar, with the same terminal designations, H - R - A & D....a lot of the info on the internet seems to show both switches being used on all the Chrysler, Plymouths and Didges,...however - I have found listings that make be believe that the 910507 was for the Plymouth, and the 990547 was for the Dodge and Chrysler. I've attached a picture of both headlight switches to this post, I believe the 990547 is 1/2 longer in length (probably not an issue), but here's what I was hoping to ask and learn from my fellow P15 forum members. 1): The 910507 switch, listed in the parts manual for the P15's, looks to have an on-board fuse holder. Being cylinder shaped I'm guessing it uses the older style buss fuses ? Can anyone out there help me out with this, is it truly a fuse holder ? does it use the old round style buss fuses, like I remember from my first cars in the 60's ? and if so - what amp fuse does it take ? 2): The 990547 switch, (of which I currently have 2ea in my possession) doesn't have anything that looks like a fuse holder, it appears to have ( I'm gonna guess out loud here ) a circuit breaker type protection setup, that utilizes a set of point contacts for the make break contact, where the main battery input comes into the switch,.....I might as well stop there, in regards to describing the points setup, as anyone is gonna either be familiar with this switch setup or not.... I have not attempted any kind of cleaning or filing on the points on either of these switches I currently have, and the way they are tucked into the rear housing of the switch, there's not much of a way to get a look at the contact surfaces... I like the idea of going with the switch that is shown in the P15 manual, (the 910507), I suppose I like the idea of a fuse rather than a set of points I am un-sure about...however, I'm thinking that fuse might be a little hard to get to if and when it might become an issue and blow:), course way better than the alternative - any day of the week.... aside from all this, I have picked up (here on the forum) on the wisdom of using an external relay under the hood to power the headlights, and just use your dash headlight switch to operate the relay,....thereby not bringing all those amps into the dash area..... But I would really appreciate any and all feedback regarding both switches,.....points versus what looks like a fuse setup....as its time to make a decision on whether to go with one of the existing switches I currently have or pick up a 910507, as shown in my parts book. At this point, I'll spend the money to get another switich, if I'm gonna feel better down the road about it...that's most important for my head against the old pillow at night. Thank you senior forum members, I have learned so much on this forum,..and I am truly thankful. Steve
  5. 3046moparcoupe

    over center spring & shop manual

    The moral of this story is "remember to thoroughly read your SHOP MANUAL",... Today I took a run at getting my cleaned up clutch over center spring installed back on the torque shaft of the P15..."someone once before had told me to just loosen the turnbuckle rod all the way and the over center spring should just slip in place, then tighten up the turnbuckle rod to take the slack out of the spring and to adjust to tension",.....well - WRONG !! with the turnbuckle rod back all the way off, I still liked about a good 1/2" distance in getting the spring hooked on both the L brkt and the anchor pin of the torque shaft., I had looked through my manual and found no diagram of the 46-48 over center spring setup, so I put the manual aside, and messaged Don C. here on the forum, question the fitment of the spring to the shaft, etc..trying to determine if I had something installed in-correctly, etc....I knew I had everything back together the way I had taken it apart, from a diagram I had drawn out when I disassembled, but I was really concerned that that lower "L" brkt might be on backwards "upside down if you will,..seeing that if it was reversed I would gain a lot of play, a good inch or better.. Don was good to reply back, and sent me a couple of pics,....one especially I had not seen before, showed the configuration for the L brkt, which matched the way I had it installed, this was a big help, thank you Don C. Then I decided to put on my big boy pants and whip this thing,......went and got my come along, rigged it up to spread that spring apart, installed a bunch of washers wrapped with a little electrical tape to try and preserve a little paint if possible, and got the spring to spread out a good 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch,......feeling a little proud of making this come my way,....I came in the house to grab a drink and catch my breath for a few,.... It was then in my frustration with the shop manual for not covering the over center spring for the 46-48, I opened the pages of the manual one more time, and found this: pg:57, 1946-48, to install the spring, first fasten the hook end to the clevis pin on the torque tube, making certain that a washer is located between the hook and the lever. Then attach the other end of the spring to the bracket on the frame. With the lower bolt of the frame bracket in place, pivot the bracket into position and insert the top bolt. Check location of spring bracket with special gauge and tighten both bolts securely" Talk about "feel like a moron", chalk it up to another great reminder in regards to "READ THE MANUAL",... I've got two of these over center springs that I cleaned up and repainted, this one pictured here is still sitting out in the garage with the spacers in place, it was the original spring that came off the car and both hook ends are about half way worn into, for that reason I purchased another NOS listed one, which did appear to have never been installed, and matched this spring and hook assy perfectly,...I suppose I'll use the new one, and try installing it the way the shop manual says... Just to learn, anyone out there know if spreading a spring, in this fashion, with steel washer inserted to hold the coils apart, would damage the thing in any way ? I wouldn't think so, but what do I know ? very little I'm discovering sometimes, but I am learning
  6. 3046moparcoupe

    over center spring & shop manual

    Thank you both for your reply's back on this, I'm downloading the file now,...awesome, really appreciate this forum...
  7. 3046moparcoupe

    WAGONER aftermarket WT243-8A 3 speed countershaft gear

    That's kinda why I'm thinking about using the old original cluster gear, instead of this newer Wagoner aftermarket. In my mind, stuff like that oil groove and lip, and having the gear balanced,....the things that Wagoner didn't do,..maybe that's why, these original mopars had a good reputation and history ?? like your describing,.....that's exactly why I'm asking here, ...don't wanna spend money trying to use the better part, and do all the good I can, while I'm in this thing (sharper edged looking gear teeth, no physical signs of wear at all, etc ).... but end up actually shooting myself in the foot, and overall downgrading the quality of the tranny - by doing so. thxs dpollo, Steve
  8. Recently I purchased a super clean Wagoner WT-243-8A Countershaft/Cluster Gear to replace the worn mopar 697823 part in the manual 3 speed of our 46 Plymouth. This completed the list of parts I needed and I'm ready to go back together with it all, UNTIL TODAY'S DISCOVERY sigh.............!! I purchased the new Wagoner 3 speed cluster gear from an ebay seller with a 100% rating, (great guy - and he's good with refunding me on the purchase), but we're trying to figure out what's going on with this Wagoner aftermarket replacement part. Anyway - the Mopar number is 697832, the Wagoner number is WT-243-8A. The part looks NOS, super clean, but on the inside bore of the gear I just noticed this today - up inside the bore of the gear, (about an inch or so inside) there are no oil grooves on both ends and the center bore of the gear doesn't reduce down in the middle section of the gear to provide the ridge on both ends necessary to hold the needle bearings in place...so I not seeing how this Wagoner part could work, looks like the needle bearings would just wash/walk /move around until one moves far enough to get out of the lineup, then your toast ....we're trying to figure out if it's a defect, etc. Only other thing I could possible think of, is if that slightly smaller bore I'm seeing inside the gear, could possible be a .005 thick hardened inner sleeve ?? Both gears measure 1.005 " on the outermost end of the bore openings. Anyone out there experience anything like this before ?? I've attached 2ea pics that show what I'm trying to describe,. on just a single end of each Cluster gear, my original (which shows the groove "which I'm thinking is an oil groove" and then immediately to the inside of the groove you see where the bore reduces down to a smaller diameter,....the smaller diameter runs through the entire mid section of the gear, then you have a repeat of the same oil groove and the bore opens up slightly, again on the opposite end of the gear....the reduction in the center looks to be about .0010, and this gives you an edge for your needle bearings to ride/butt up against, while resting inside the gear between the bore of the gear and the spacer tube. Just wondering if among all the experience here on the forum - someone might have run across this before possible....maybe it's just a defect, a mis-labeled gear...just guessing at this point...but again , I don't see how it could work, and WT-243-8A does appear to be the good interchange number for the Mopar 697823. ??? Thanks again Steve
  9. 3046moparcoupe

    WAGONER aftermarket WT243-8A 3 speed countershaft gear

    Trying to due my part in researching this,.......multiple sellers on ebay offering the Wagoner WT243-8A countershaft gear,......none of the auction pictures had good enough pics to see the inner bore, so I wrote the sellers asking about it,......all came back saying the bore was completely smooth like the one I have..... One seller, who strictly sold vintage gears told me, that the countershaft gear I had was NOT an original Mopar part, the he had an original In the box. and that it had a smooth bore just like the Wagoner. Recommended I use the Wagoner, that it was a closer design to the original, and all should be good.....had me feeling positive about this for a few minutes - (as it seemed he had nothing to gain as he wasn't trying to sell me his Wagoner part),....then about an hour later - I found an ebay seller, with a 100% positive rating, that had a countershaft gear up for auction, listed as an original Mopar 697823, (just like what my P15 parts book shows to be correct), and he had some really good pictures you could zoom in on... Well, low and behold - the one he had for sell,. looks exactly like my old one,....it has the 4ea drilling holes in the flat bottom surface of the large end gear (balance holes I would think). They are the same size and in the same location as on the gear I have,.....also on that same flat surface area on his gear, you can see the dpcd logo stamped into the gear, (that's something mine doesn't have however, mine has the letters E L X D stamped into it ?? (You can see it in the pics above I attached to the original post), don't suppose anyone out there might know what that stands for ??....also when you zoom in on the end shot of the gear, where you can see down the bore, the groove and lip is there....just like the gear that came out of my tranny...?? This seller also had a Chryco box, with the part number 697823 displayed on it, not that a box really confirms anything,.... I politely wrote the vintage gear seller back, thanking him for his time and effort, and tried to again "politely" nudge him towards what I had just found that day also on ebay, as described in the previous paragraph,...asked if his oem gear had a part # stamped on it anywhere ? or possible the dpcd logo ? ? ( he wrote me three separate messages the day before, but not a word back yet regarding this now. !!! ) I just keep telling myself, the old adage "if this we're easy - everyone would do it" and try to keep moving forward... Steve
  10. 3046moparcoupe

    WAGONER aftermarket WT243-8A 3 speed countershaft gear

    thanks dpollo and austinsailor,....Yes, when I watched the Master tech Video's, I picked up on the arbor trick (where old Dutch showed the younger guy to use the tool to hold the needle bearings in place in the countershaft gear),...I happened to mention it to one of the forum members in a conversation, and he told me that 3/4" oak dowel from the hardware store would work perfectly,...(so I've got 2ea slightly different in length already made up and ready to go),...yes Austin Sailor, even Dutch on the Master video recommended using heavy grease to hold the needle bearings into the main pinion shaft, until you could get the retainer clip in place......but I think even he thought it was too much of a juggling act to try and just use the grease alone without the arbor, when your also having to deal with that spacer shaft being in there as well, he (Dutch (did say to put some oil on the bearings to hold them in place, if I remember correctly he said Use some oil, there's not enough room for grease)...anyway - all this was good advice, I appreciate you guys sending it my way......had I not already known it would have been gold to me,....so I appreciate the thought and effort from you both. Dpollo, regarding the modern lubricant comment, my understanding is that I have got to stay with GL1, or I'll have problems with the modern stuff attacking the bronze synchronizers and thrust washers,...so I don't' know if modern GL1 is superior to what they had back then, (which was also rated as GL-1),.....It's possible I suppose,....?? I get all bogged up on this stuff, due to lack of real world experience,..drive's the more experienced senior guys here on the forum,..NuTz ...which sure isn't my intent, we're (the good ole USA) loosing folks who have knowledge like this,...folks who can actually make something, and do more than just push a button and read what pops up.... It's not a contest in perfection and I'm not trying to build a " nothing but oem parts ", type car.....I just don't wanna make the wrong decision and use the wrong part, that could cause my grief later..... I know I've got issues with having to feel like I did my absolute best ,(due-diligence) , on everything....I just can't sleep and night unless I feel I truly did. My employers always loved it,..but I guess they we're about the only ones. Maybe George Asche would be good to ask about this,...seems like I've read he has a lot of experience with these transmissions....cause if I'm thinking correctly on this, and I believe I am, that countershaft is always turning,....it never stops,.. no matter what gear, including neutral...seems like a good place to do the right thing, and choose the correct part, if it might make a difference,....maybe not - I know what I need, a giant Mopar crystal ball Steve
  11. 3046moparcoupe

    WAGONER aftermarket WT243-8A 3 speed countershaft gear

    dpollo, YES - I do have the spacer tube shown on the drawing I attached to this reply (its shown as part #83) and I also attached a pic of it to this reply along with the xmn diagram drwg. It's a smidge over 4 1/2 inches long...and came out with the needle bearings. What i was originally questioning is in addition to the part #83 spacer. It's actually the way the bore of the original Mopar countershaft gear is cut, in comparison to the way the bore on the wagoner is cut.... HOWEVER,...I've got to fess up here, on my original post I was making a BIG error going from my memory only,.....I was thinking that the part #83 spacer shown in the drwg and the attached picture was longer. That it ran the entire length of the bore of the countershaft gear, and that without that additional short inner lip I was seeing up inside the mopar countershaft gear, that the needle bearings would travel and move,....however - now that your reply back - had me go look through my parts at this spacer tube again, I see that it's shorter length serves to not only fill the space between the bore of the countershaft gear and the shaft itself, but it also does serve as a spacer to keep the needle bearings from walking. Oldtimers disease I guess, I apologise - I should have double checked myself, I was sure that the part #83 spacer ran the full length of the countershaft gear bore....I suppose I'll learn the embarrassing way - to go check myself before I start crying wolf - huh ? BUT, after seeing this, and my mistake here,...I went back and double/triple, checked myself,..with my snap gauges and calipers,.....and the bore on the original mopar gear truly does downsize by .0010 ", so there is an additional ridge inside the bore for the bearings to ride on, and there is also "as you can see in the original post pictures" an additional deep groove on each end of this ridge that's about 3/16 inch wide, (gotta be an oil groove to hold oil right where the ends of the needle bearings contact the spacer tube ?)....anyway - none of that's present on the aftermarket Wagoner countershaft gear. I wonder how necessary those two elements are ?? It definitely seems as though it complicated the making of the original part quite a bit,.....if it wasn't required, looks Walter Chrysler wouldn't have included it in the machining of the part..?? Again, I was lost as a goose in my thinking when I posted this - so thanks Apollo for bringing me back down to earth here,....but now, loosing that oil groove on each of the bearings where they ride up against the spacer shaft, and also loosing the additional needle bearing support doesn't feel real warm and fuzzy either.... At this point, I don't know if anyone out there might possible be able to offer up an example of having used a Wagoner aftermarket countershaft gear, with successfully longevity ? Steve
  12. 3046moparcoupe

    1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 tranny bearings

    Thanks Tim, I always appreciate you taking the time to share and help..your knowledge and experience is second to none...again, thanks for being here on the forum to help so many.
  13. Wanted to share this with the forum. I just placed the order so we shall see if it turns out as good as I'm hoping for. The bearings in my 3 speed manual tranny were as follows: pp# MRC207 SFG (main pinion drive bearing shielded one side),##note##thxs to DB4YA I knew the shielding on one side was important and has to be there. pp#MRC207 S (main shaft front bearing) pp#MRC206 S (main shaft rear bearing) My understanding is that the main pinion drive bearing is typically the one that will go bad 1st, and sure enough when I checked these (as instructed by PlymouthyAdams) it was the one of the three that was noisy. Wasn't finding much on the MRC part number, however did find where it had been previously discussed here on the forum once before, and DB4Ya had helped another member cross the original Mopar part number (619167), over to a Federal Mogul p# of 1207SL....I thinking like other company's and in respect to the economy, they can sell off/ merge/ etc...seems like business as usual these days, anyway - the best luck I was having on the 1207SL part number was under Timken. The bearing looked correct by description, so I'm thinking Federal Mogul and Timken may all be the same now,.. lastly here, I'm a newbie, that's learning,..but even I can understand the importance of quality in respect to bearings,...and Timken is a name I've seen since I was young..however today when I discovered that MRC is a division of SKF,and that they were USA made, I purchased a full replacement set (all 3 bearings) MRC207SFG, MRC207S and MRC206S, for a total of $42.00 + $13.00 (4 day shipping) = $55.00 to my door from locate ballbearings.com. According to the Fella I spoke with (Mark Hoffman, see the info below), by ordering through him, I cut out the middleman....he told me he stocked and sold quite a few of the bearings I purchased, that he recognized the numbers, etc...course, only he and the man upstairs know if that's actually true or not. Typically I've learned, " if it seems to good to be true, it probably is - too good to be true ", so I was/still am a bit skeptical, but I needed to make a decision and pulled the trigger and ordered from them....so well see, I suppose. Just wanted to share this info with the group, as the prices I was getting on a Timken 1207SL bearing were ranging from around $70 + shipping and upwards towards a $ Benjamin. I'll follow up with this, once they are received, etc.. Mark HoffmanLocate Ball Bearingswww.locateballbearings.commark@locateballbearings.com75090 St. Charles Place, Suite BPalm Desert CA 92211 Steve
  14. 3046moparcoupe

    1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 tranny bearings

    Well, as far as locateballbearings.com goes, and these MRC bearings I now have in my possession,...and if they are the real deal / built to spec, A stock, obtained at a really great price ???? I hate to say it guys - we will never know I have spoken with two tech engineers who work for SKF (the company that now builds the MRC line of bearings), both told me, you bet - send me the pictures of the bearings you have and we'll be glad to take a look at them and let ya know what we think, (could they possible be counterfeits, etc...), and neither one has returned my emails or called back as promised. From what I've read on the topic, since purchasing these bearings so cheaply, I've learned that it can be so difficult to tell a fake from the real deal, that the metal sometimes actually has to be tested as the only way to find out for sure, etc..lab work type stuff...also, I've discovered it is common for re-sell places, or ebay sellers / amazon,... to buy old stock and run it through their process of re-storing or cleaning them up,...you can also read that these places will often buy B stock....etc...and guess what - this company boasts as being the largest volume dealer on both ebay and amazon....Course, everything is just speculation, and I may be chunking three of the best MRC bearings ever known to man, bought from a company that strives for ultimate customer satisfaction and quality....but unfortunately, in todays environment, it's a gamble - and according to what you read - a much bigger gamble than purchasing from your local retail provider. I don't know how much of this is factual or possible thrown out there to keep the retail prices as high as possible...but, I just don't think there's any way I can feel good about taking the risk. I'm never lucky with stuff like this.. One things for sure, we're working way to hard on this project to gamble when not necessary....and I haven't cut corners yet, so I won't start now. I believe I'll go down to my local bearing supply, and pony up,..as this has turned out to be my $50, learn a good lesson experience..... Onward through the fog !! Steve
  15. My Jana puts up with me and my projects - somehow I am thankful, to say the least...I often wonder if the tide were reversed, would I be as understanding ?? The inside of our house for the last four years. ( and there's actually 2 more rooms full not pictured here ).. Thankfully she can see that most of this will be back on the P15 over the course of the next year or so... I am blessed to have her, that's for sure.. S.\teve
  16. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    Well it's trying to rain here a bit in NE Texas today, so I'm inside and thought I'd post on the past 2 weeks of work on the Club Coupe's door hinges. Three of my hinge pins came out of the hinges with just a bit of penetrant and a few taps of persuasion, however the 4th (lower hinge drivers side) would not give it up. I quickly discovered that my propane torch wasn't going to even scratch the surface in regards to breaking the rust bond, so I began drilling out the pin. I do believe that everytime I've tried to drill out a broken bolt, stud, etc...I have done this,...TEP - you guessed it, broke off the little drill bit inside the material....finally - I have learned my lesson,....when drilling your 1st tiny pilot hole down the center,....go a ways - then stop and go to a slightly larger bit and drill almost as far as your pilot hole,....then go back to your smaller bit, and so on,....there may be other successful ways of doing this as well, but I've determined that this method will help prevent you from breaking off your small bit, as the slightly larger hole opening made by the larger bit will give you some room for your little bit to flex and move, as it is difficult to keep the drill perfectly still and perfectly straight. Anyway - I do believe I've learned a good lesson here,...as the little bit I broke off was Titanium and made this even more difficult. What saved my bacon on this was the small set of 1/8" shank diamond tipped dremel bits that are available at Harbor Freight, I think the little set sells for about $7.99 and comes with a dozen or so different shaped bits....some of which are fine pointed - even smaller than the end of a toothpick. In the past I've used these to scratch rust off metal in tight crevice places...anyway - patience here is your friend,.....unfortunately I had about 1 1/4 " of Titanium bit broke off inside the hinge pin I was drilling out, so this took me quite a while,...but I was able to slowly drill out the steel of the pin, with getting into the wall of the hinge. I expected that I would be able to drill enough steel out to expose the bit and then be able to drive the bit back out or grab it and pull it out, but it never happened, I would drill a ways and get the side walls of remaining pin as thin as a sheet of paper, then taker a small screw driver and small tack hammer and peel away the thin sleeve of side wall, exposing the undisturbed hinge pin bore..I repeated this process over and over until I had about 1/4" of solid pin with bit inside it, remaining,...and the bit finally drove out, leaving me a 1/8 through hole I could now drill out, attached you can see the pic of the sleeve of remaining hinge pin that finally pushed out of the hole once enough material was removed.....morale of the story don't give up - you can do it,...rather than spend the money for a new hinge on ebay, which could very well put you right in the same place you already are...see attached pic 5174 below. Now with the last pin out, and all did-assembled, I've started the process of cleaning then up for paint...see attached pics 5171 & 5179 All of the hinge pins I removed from these hinges were basically the same / but different. They were all in the .340 - .342 diameter range on the pin shaft itself, but the knurling was different on each pin.. see attached pic 5178 In looking at hinge pin kits for sell, when you compare the pin diameter and the bushing ID - I was typically seeing a couple thousands difference for clearance, so my 1st effort in replacing these hinge pins will be in that same regard for a close fit with room for a good coating of anti seize on the pin shaft itself. At present, with my three best condition hinge's, I have pins that measure around .342 with a bit of wear, also the pin hole bores show a bit of light surface rust,....I'm gonna gently remove as much of that surface rust as possible from the bores in effort of starting fresh, and initially try a new pin with a diameter of .345., if that feels too lose the next step up in diameter is .350. Initially I could feel the movement and see the slop in my worst hinge. The pin was frozen inside the hinge strap/tongue, but was spinning inside both ends of the hinge frame. Obviously this had opened up the hole end where the knurling is located, however the opposite frame hole was wallered out and showed the worst movement. On the hinge frame of these hinges, there is a steel reinforcement bushing (if you will) around each hole, that supports and anchors both ends of the hinge pin. Since on this hinge it had been wallered out some, I was able to grab it with a pair of large pipe pliers and compress it down enough that the old pins would now fit snugly, then I took a small piece of copper tubing, cut it to fit the inside diameter of the pin hole, and welded around each pin hole to reinforce the area..see attached pic 5183. My initial try .345 dia. hinge pins will be here in a few days and we'll see how they fit. hopefully the new knurling of the slightly larger pin will snug this all up, again if I find that I feel I need some more meat on the hinge pins themselves, I will go to the .350 diameter as I can always remove a little knurling if necessary... I believe the stock hinge pin for these Plymouth cars had a .280 diameter, so someone has already oversize drilled these hinges at least once. I did study the thought of trying to modify these hinges to add copper bushings, like a more modern hinge. The copper bushing would have to be added into the hinge tongue strap itself, and would be a one shot you better get it right thing, or you've ruined the hinge strap, therefore I elected to try this route 1st, and if to no avail - I can always attempt the copper bushing modification later - if necessary. Hopefully down the line, this post will possible help some Newbie, like myself - in getting this done,....biggest tool you have, I can't stress this enough - P A T I E N C E its your best friend.
  17. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    46Ply, this sounds like it might go hand in hand with Mike36's reply to this post, above. He really added in some value with his experience as a machinest, and when he spoke of the drill bit moving faster, and producing larger shavings, the risk of bit breakage increases...as the fragment have a more difficult time getting out of the way.... There is so much awesome knowledge here on this forum. I would be completely on my own here, were it not for the forum. There are lot's of vintage car guys in my area, but they are all Chevy / Ford,...and when you try to talk old Mopar with them, it doesn't seem to translate, they don't seem to wanna or feel like they can help... Steve
  18. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    Thanks Andy, it's a start on getting the metal cleaned up, but as ya can see in the pics,..I've got to get deeper into the crevices, etc...or it'll just come back on me. Trying to avoid the phosphoric acid if possible, but that may be the best way to get into those crevices...I know one sand blaster who might be carefull enough with these as well to maybe get into the corner areas and under the lips where the brace plates are spot welded to the frames... Regarding the screws, I appreciate your reply,....I don't know if they even had grade 8 back in the mid 40's...anyway - my parts book just shows them as steel. I'd think even at mild steel there gonna be fairly strong for holding the hinge to the door pillar, but I'd sure think a harder grade would hold up to not rusting better than a softer grade....anyway - if I anti seize the heck out of em where the threads contatc the nut, and also maybe even cover the interior exposed threads up inside the kick panel with a rubber boot, over a layer of anti seize as well,...hopefully that would keep things gold in the future... Always good to hear from you, regards. S.
  19. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    wise words Mike, some of this I knew,...some I didn't (thanks for the valuable input).. Steve.
  20. 3046moparcoupe

    My wife's gotta be the absolute best :)

    Very very True Jan, you are wise,....great to get a reply all the way from Germany,...that's a beautiful front nose piece you have their for your truck...Yes I can't stand to put these parts out in the humidity. It has so much helped to keep them inside while working on them, under AC, etc....I did however recently find out that I had made a mistake .many of my sheet metal parts that have been worked, welded on, sand blasted, then shot in urethane primer, etc....I then brought inside to keep them clean,....we have been so careful (haven't fried a single meal in 3 1/2 years tp keep grease from becoming airborne, etc...and I now discover that me laying plastic over my parts in urethane was a bad idea. the wrong kind of plastic, just generic drop plastic from the hardware store. turns out it is a petroleum product and has probably leached out onto my urethane surface,?? I wouldn't have guessed that one,....I will have to clean all of it to keep from getting fish eyes,...all of it will require sanding anyway, but my understanding is I now have to clean and degrease before I sand, or I'll just spread it around.....oh well, better to find out now than later I suppose, I sure didn't see that one coming... Steve
  21. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 Newport Wiper Conversion issues resolved

    This drwg view is from inside the car looking forward.
  22. I hope this will help someone down the line. Granted it usually takes me longer than most, but I probably have a solid 48-60 hrs of work and research in figuring this out and making sure the info I'm sharing here with you is correct. In short - the installation instructions that currently come with the Newport Clean Wipe Electric Wiper Motor conversion kits for the 1946-1948 Plymouth cars, are in error in regards to how the wiper linkage arms are supposed to connect to the new Newport wiper motor drive bracket. The way Newport currently has this drawn is exactly opposite of the only way they can/and must attach. I have written Darrel at Newport to let him know, and have not yet received anything back from him. I'm sure when many folks figure this out for themselves they just move on, but I have received a lot of help here on the forum and when I get the opportunity to help back, I am going to do so. If your the guy that's putting the kit into your daily driver car, this error in the instructions won't throw you as big a curve as it does to the person that's building from scratch. Reason being, you can't even see much of your wiper linkage arms underneath the dash cowl, and you probably just connect the only arm that will come close to reaching the nearest anchor post on the drive brkt......but if your the person building from scratch - this is a real delima. Anyway - this might possible explain why the error in the installation instruction figure drawings has never been corrected. Anyhoo - here's the sort and skinny of it...look at the hand drawing I have attached to this post,..it shows how Newport currently shows you to connect the wiper linkage arms to the new electric motor drive bracket. Connecting them this way is physically impossible, it will not work. Newports instructions/drawings were of such detail that it didn't make sense to me for them to be wrong, so I spent a ton of hours researching every aspect of my vacuum motor, the linkage arms by part number / TRICO, etc...trying to find out what might be wrong on my end of things, again giving Newport the benefit of the doubt - that their instructions were correct. Nearing the end of all this researching, I thought I'd figured it out.....the linkage arm drive brkt on the oem vacuum motor is shaped like a boomerang, (V shaped), just like the drive arm brkt on the Newport electric motor, .........BUT..........the Newport drive arm brkt is clocked 180 degrees out of phase with the way the oem drive brkts are built. I thought for sure I'd found the problem,...and Newport gave me their blessing in removing the drive brkt and turning it 180 degrees so that it would match the original curve of the oem brkt...again, I was sure this was gonna be the answer - but it wasn't,....the arms would hit together when the motor was activated....so I put the drive brkt back in its original orientation, and worked with the unit to get this resolved. Here's how I did it. (I would like to be able to take credit for thinking of this, but I can't - I have to thank Darrel at Newport for making this suggestion I positioned the brkt to where the linkage arms looked evenly spaced and clocked in as close to the same position as I could tell by eye, then I snugged the screw down to hold the brkt in place, then I took a 12v pwr supply and just touched pwr to the low speed wire, the arms would move a tiny bit and stop, then I'd repeat the process, etc, until the linkage arms were nearing their most outward movement of travel, then I could stop and compare and loosen my brkt screw, adjust accordingly, and continue moving the arms through their entire wiper motion. This resulted in getting the brkt attached to where it needed to be, without having the motor extend a linkage arm out too far on either side, hitting the stop posts, and putting the motor in a bind. Then I tightened the motor drive brkt down. Now their is a slot on the bracket that attached the entire Newport wiper motor to the cowl of the car, and it's there to allow you to move the entire motor a bit either up or down, to fine tune adjust,..(which is basically the same thing I did here in the paragraph above, but in my case - it would not move the drive brkt far enough and I was trying to hit on the passenger side first when the wiper went through its cycle). In my opinion, the following note regarding the connection of the brkt to the motor is sort of a bummer, but as long as it works, no foul I suppose...it didn't give me much of a warm fuzzy when I was tightening it back up, that's for sure. ....###note###when you look at the drive brkt on the back of the Newport Wiper Motor, you will see the edge of splines where the brkt attaches on to the motor shaft....I was saddened to find out that the splines are only on the brkt collar itself, the motor shaft is completely smooth, so the only thing holding your brkt in place on the shaft is how tight you torque down on the allen screw compressing the brkt collar onto the shaft with friction...it took a short cheater wrench on the end of my allen wrench to get the screw to originally break loose, and it gave me 4 little bark noises when I un-did it to remove the brkt, so when I tightened it back up, I repeated the process, tightened the screw down snug by hand, than used my short cheater hand wrench and got 4 little barks from it. as I torqued it on down,....pretty un-easy feeling for sure, I wasn't too happy to say the least,...how tight is tight ?? is this gonna try and move sometime in the future ? problem am I fixing to break this screw off ? problem,...anyway - I made the decision to stop, and the screw didn't break off, or crack " to my knowledge" , again, (peace of mind - oh yeah ! oh boy ! are we having fun yet ), I am not here to bash Newport, I am thankful for their kit, and maybe my wiper linkage arm drive brkt being off enough to cause me the issues it did, was an isolated case,....you may not experience that. Seems like most everyone out there in the internet world has nothing but praises to say about them,...but I can tell ya for sure, at present the instructions for adding this kit to a P15 direct you to attach the curved linkage arm to the bottom post of the motor drive brkt., from the RH passenger side of the car, and to connect the straight linkage arm to the upper post on the motor drive brkt, from the LH drivers side of the car,...THIS IS 100% BACKWARDS AND IN CORRECT.....and NO, this is not a matter of looking at the instruction from either inside the car or from the front of the car, the drwgs are clear about what they are saying,and the drwgs are basically all ya get ,.. Do it exactly the opposite, curved arm from the LH driver side to the upper post and straight arm from the RH passenger side to the lower post...as shown in the attached drwg. Best of luck, Steve Gentry
  23. 3046moparcoupe

    1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 tranny bearings

    Well, I received my new bearings from Locateballbearings.com....Not sure yet exactly what to think about them....Sometimes I can't see the forest for the trees, that for sure, and as a buyer (in hindsight) I should have been a bit slower to act on this. Again these may be fine, but I'm super anal about not taking chances. All that said here we go, here's what I basically know so far. Initially when I searched for MRC bearings (which I had never heard of before, but is what I found to be inside this manual transmission when I took it apart), I was led to the locateballbearings.com web site. The web site looks state of the art, A+ BBB rating, #1 government bearing supplier, etc... Called their sales desk and told they were available, as NEW - made in the USA.and the total price was $54.00 delivered to my door for all three bearings (pinion drive and front and rear main shaft). Why so cheap ? I asked, response - you are cutting out the middle man.....so I ordered them. They arrived in 4-5 days as promised, shipping container was very good. The following pictures show what was received. After receiving the bearings I called them again and spoke with customer service. I asked where the bearings came from and was told "our west coast warehouse". I inquired about the generic blue boxes the bearings came in and was told, that the original boxes usually have shelf wear, tears, etc...so they re-box them up when they ship them out. So in result, at best, what we have here is original MRC bearings that were purchased somewhere from surplus stock and re-sold. After doing a little more digging, I ended up speaking with some folks at SKF (the Swedish bearing company that now supports the MRC bearing line) and they were good enough to ask that I send them pictures of the bearings, showing the engraving, etc..in effort of determining if these are real MRC or possible forgeries. My hats off to SKF for being good enough to do this, course I can see how they would be interested as well,..but still they reached out my what offering to help determine, if possible. Waiting to hear back from SKF, I'll keep you posted on what I find out. Purchasing these bearings would be a result in savings of $100 or better, probably more like closer to $150 - $175,....depending on where you bought the Timken interchange bearing. napa was the most expensive,...but honestly in hindsight I don't know of this is worth the uncertainty , etc... if the bearings aren't up to spec, no matter how cheap they are, it's nothing but a loosing proposition.... Again, I'll keep you guys posted on what SKF has to say about these. Steve
  24. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    I was able to get all of my door hinge frame attaching screws out of the door pillars, however a few of the screws gave up some thread due to severe rust. Found these 5/16 - 24 screws replacements on ebay. I like the idea of the extra length, which will allow for a back up nut if some of the nut threads inside the door pillars also have deteriorated a bit as well..the stock screws are 7/8" long, these are 1 1/2" in length. My only concern was that every 5/16 - 24 oval head, phillips,...I could find was listed as Mild steel, (one place went as far as assuming that theirs were grade 5 ?? ) that really gives you a warm fuzzy,...:) anyway - I do not know what grade the original hardware would have been, if anyone out there knows, I'd appreciate the feedback...the individual I purchased these from had sold a boo kooz of them, and in all honesty said they didn't know as well, what grade they were... I knew I didn't want to use stainless steel, and the only grade 8 hardware I could find was offered only in a flat head / allen wrench or torx configuration...I'm guessing if I lube these well, and with the car being garage kept and babied so to speak, these might work just fine....again, any and all input is encouraged and appreciated.
  25. 3046moparcoupe

    3 door hinge pins out / 1 being stubborn / heat ???

    Thanks for the reply back Branded, you may have a good solid point there,....just trying to do the right things with these hinges 1st time around...as I figure I only get 1 shot to do it right before it ends up being a botched process.....thank you.
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