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3046moparcoupe

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Everything posted by 3046moparcoupe

  1. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 door hinge repair progress

    Well it's trying to rain here a bit in NE Texas today, so I'm inside and thought I'd post on the past 2 weeks of work on the Club Coupe's door hinges. Three of my hinge pins came out of the hinges with just a bit of penetrant and a few taps of persuasion, however the 4th (lower hinge drivers side) would not give it up. I quickly discovered that my propane torch wasn't going to even scratch the surface in regards to breaking the rust bond, so I began drilling out the pin. I do believe that everytime I've tried to drill out a broken bolt, stud, etc...I have done this,...TEP - you guessed it, broke off the little drill bit inside the material....finally - I have learned my lesson,....when drilling your 1st tiny pilot hole down the center,....go a ways - then stop and go to a slightly larger bit and drill almost as far as your pilot hole,....then go back to your smaller bit, and so on,....there may be other successful ways of doing this as well, but I've determined that this method will help prevent you from breaking off your small bit, as the slightly larger hole opening made by the larger bit will give you some room for your little bit to flex and move, as it is difficult to keep the drill perfectly still and perfectly straight. Anyway - I do believe I've learned a good lesson here,...as the little bit I broke off was Titanium and made this even more difficult. What saved my bacon on this was the small set of 1/8" shank diamond tipped dremel bits that are available at Harbor Freight, I think the little set sells for about $7.99 and comes with a dozen or so different shaped bits....some of which are fine pointed - even smaller than the end of a toothpick. In the past I've used these to scratch rust off metal in tight crevice places...anyway - patience here is your friend,.....unfortunately I had about 1 1/4 " of Titanium bit broke off inside the hinge pin I was drilling out, so this took me quite a while,...but I was able to slowly drill out the steel of the pin, with getting into the wall of the hinge. I expected that I would be able to drill enough steel out to expose the bit and then be able to drive the bit back out or grab it and pull it out, but it never happened, I would drill a ways and get the side walls of remaining pin as thin as a sheet of paper, then taker a small screw driver and small tack hammer and peel away the thin sleeve of side wall, exposing the undisturbed hinge pin bore..I repeated this process over and over until I had about 1/4" of solid pin with bit inside it, remaining,...and the bit finally drove out, leaving me a 1/8 through hole I could now drill out, attached you can see the pic of the sleeve of remaining hinge pin that finally pushed out of the hole once enough material was removed.....morale of the story don't give up - you can do it,...rather than spend the money for a new hinge on ebay, which could very well put you right in the same place you already are...see attached pic 5174 below. Now with the last pin out, and all did-assembled, I've started the process of cleaning then up for paint...see attached pics 5171 & 5179 All of the hinge pins I removed from these hinges were basically the same / but different. They were all in the .340 - .342 diameter range on the pin shaft itself, but the knurling was different on each pin.. see attached pic 5178 In looking at hinge pin kits for sell, when you compare the pin diameter and the bushing ID - I was typically seeing a couple thousands difference for clearance, so my 1st effort in replacing these hinge pins will be in that same regard for a close fit with room for a good coating of anti seize on the pin shaft itself. At present, with my three best condition hinge's, I have pins that measure around .342 with a bit of wear, also the pin hole bores show a bit of light surface rust,....I'm gonna gently remove as much of that surface rust as possible from the bores in effort of starting fresh, and initially try a new pin with a diameter of .345., if that feels too lose the next step up in diameter is .350. Initially I could feel the movement and see the slop in my worst hinge. The pin was frozen inside the hinge strap/tongue, but was spinning inside both ends of the hinge frame. Obviously this had opened up the hole end where the knurling is located, however the opposite frame hole was wallered out and showed the worst movement. On the hinge frame of these hinges, there is a steel reinforcement bushing (if you will) around each hole, that supports and anchors both ends of the hinge pin. Since on this hinge it had been wallered out some, I was able to grab it with a pair of large pipe pliers and compress it down enough that the old pins would now fit snugly, then I took a small piece of copper tubing, cut it to fit the inside diameter of the pin hole, and welded around each pin hole to reinforce the area..see attached pic 5183. My initial try .345 dia. hinge pins will be here in a few days and we'll see how they fit. hopefully the new knurling of the slightly larger pin will snug this all up, again if I find that I feel I need some more meat on the hinge pins themselves, I will go to the .350 diameter as I can always remove a little knurling if necessary... I believe the stock hinge pin for these Plymouth cars had a .280 diameter, so someone has already oversize drilled these hinges at least once. I did study the thought of trying to modify these hinges to add copper bushings, like a more modern hinge. The copper bushing would have to be added into the hinge tongue strap itself, and would be a one shot you better get it right thing, or you've ruined the hinge strap, therefore I elected to try this route 1st, and if to no avail - I can always attempt the copper bushing modification later - if necessary. Hopefully down the line, this post will possible help some Newbie, like myself - in getting this done,....biggest tool you have, I can't stress this enough - P A T I E N C E its your best friend.
  2. Question please, any of you P15 folks out there have your turn signal switch mounted to the column between the dash and the column gear shift anchor point ? I've been trying to mount a Yankee 960 turn signal switch between the steering wheel and the gear shift anchor point on the column, and there's just not quite enough real estate, however moving it down on the column that far (to between the gear shift and the dash) looks a little un-natural to me, and almost looks as though it could get in the way of a knee on a long legged person ?? maybe I'm wrong...re-locating it there would certainly solve all the space issues...all reply's welcome.. I appreciate the input.. Steve
  3. Submitting this post under the old mindset saying of "an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure" Almost wishing I would never have persured the idea of getting a 304 ss exhaust system on this old car, but I have too much skin in the game now to not continue onward with the effort. I spent quite a while researching the area for someone who tig welded, and who could answered the questions I had learned to ask in regards to trying to get this flange welded on to the exhaust pipe correctly. What type of filler wire do you use for 304 stainless ? answer : 308, what type of gas ? answer ; Argon,....etc....finally found a fella that did a lot of TIG welding, he also had a small machine shop, and I was impressed (gut feeling) with the guy in all aspects of how he carried and conducted himself.... Picked the piece up, beautiful weld,...and I know without a doubt the fella wen tout of his way to do the absolute best for me he could. reason I say that, is I had taken him a 304 stainless flange I had purchased from Summit racing, which had slotted bolt holes in it. We had discussed cutting the oval slots out of the flange, in the shape of a round plug, and making 2ea round inserts that would fir into the cutouts. These inserts would be drilled with the round 7/16" hole and would serve to keep the exhaust pipe centered at the manifold. once he started the process, he realized that it would be less work and a far better end result to just make an entire new flange out of 304 stainless (3/8" thick just like the one I brought him), position and drill the holes and weld the flange on....and that what he did... Got underneath the car yesterday and the bolt holes are a snug fit, but the 2ea 7/16" bolts did both fit through the exhaust manifold holes and through the exhaust pipe flange holes. pulled te pipe back off, and another close look at the flange had me walk over to my bench and grab a straight edge,...during the process of welding, the flange warped some....when laying a flat edge on the gasket surface, out on each far end of the flange I see about a 32nd" of gap, which of course slowly diminishes on both sides as you move inwards towards the center. According to the flat edge, almost all of the warp is from the mounting holes outward,....my only thought was to work with flat files to true this surface up again....as I realize that gasket material could take up some of this, but I also feel I gotta have even surface pressure for the gasket to last, and most importantly to not end up cracking the mounting ears on my cast iron manifold. I've filed for about 4-5 hours now, and it's incredible slow,...course that's OK, I don't much care how long it takes to end up with the proper result...however I got to thinking and wondering today, if their might be a better way,...I don't know that I'd trust anyone to mill it, as I haven't had much good luck with machinest so far in this area...I('m just wondering if it could be straightened out with heat, or some other process,..?? I'm just removing material, which might be OK,...might make this flange weaker down the line in regards to future possible warpage from heating and cooling down....?? a possible question for you forum members out there with more experience than I...again , this flange is 3/8" thick (which is a bit thicker than the old rusted flange on my old exhaust that came off the car (which looks to measure around 5/16 " thick)….if I continue to file on this, I will have to remove a little over a 32nd of material across the face of the flange to get it square. I'm doing my best to cross hatch when I file, even circular motions, and always holding the file with the palm of my hand, and holding and pressing the file up against the flange in the very center of the flange,....in effort of trying to get it as true flat as possible. Certainly something wide enough to cover the entire flange on every pass would be better....?? All thoughts and input greatly appreciated. thank you again Steve
  4. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 turn signal switch loc on column ??

    Thanks Ed and Tim, I know this is awfully trivial,. I'm gonna get out there tomorrow and doing some relocating and moving on this thing,...to see if I can find a good home for it., One reason I was asking about moving it down the column is that I was looking through P15 dash pics here on the internet and I saw a few that had the signal switch mounted lower, between the shiifter and the dash,...it didn't seem to look that bad in the photos, course they may not be long legged either,....I'm a little over 6 ft, (however slowly shrinking as time fly's by)... thanks for the pic Ed... I wish we still had the old chat feature, it was nice to visit on here that way.. Steve
  5. 3046moparcoupe

    slightly warped 304ss exhaust pipe flange

    DB4YA, I originally had enough vertical length on this pipe (before the flange was welded on) to have it insert up into the exhaust manifold just like the old rusted steel exhaust system that came off it, however I was bothered about Galvanic Corrosion eating away at the inside of my cast iron manifold if I did that...…so I began trying to figure a way to connect this up and protect my cast iron manifold. At one point - I did what I'm obviously really good at, and posted the question here on the forum, many folks said they wouldn't worry about corrosion happening, etc,..but I was also asking about the purpose of the extension piece of pipe,....I guess no one in the know at the time happened along at the right time to help me out on that, cause I hadn't seen anyone mention that the real purpose of the pipe was to help prevent gasket blowout,....certainly makes sense however, I had more envisioned it's purpose as centering the exhaust pipe to the manifold as the exhaust pipe flange holes were 1/2" and the exhaust manifold holes were smaller at 7/16",...anyway - as PLYJM mentioned, I'm definitely past that now,.... I suppose if I have issues and can't keep a gasket in the flange, maybe I can have a short piece tack welded in later, I've been blocking the gasket surface side of this flange with a large file as Plymouthy suggested, and I've almost got it to where a stainless draftsman straight edge ruler lays perfectly flush in all directions, with not even the slightest light showing through between the edge of the ruler and the flange surface... I've got a Victor 5438AK 2 hole flat flange gasket which looks to be a good 1/16th inch thick and appears to have a thin metal layer sandwiched inside between the outer fiber material..so I can see where this gasket has enough depth to compensate for a bit of irregularity on the flange surface, but I felt my chances to eliminate gasket blowout and to try and have even pressure on my cast iron exhaust flange (as not to crack it), was to try and get the flange as true straight as I possible could.....I'm almost there, I can still see just a but of gap out on the very outer edges of the exhaust pipe flange,...I would say by the time I have it dead on flat, I will have made this 3/8" thick stainless steel a little over a 32nd " thinner in the very middle of the flange up close to the pipe, and course it's still almost it's initial 3/8" thickness out on the ends... I've heard folks mention a flat gasket like this Victor 5438AK, but one that also has a sleeve that goes up inside the pipe, I wonder if that would be a possibility for my situation ? Steve
  6. Almost got the car wiring completed. Thought I get the Yankee turn signal switch I went through this past summer mounted to the column and wired in. I hated to use a hose clamp, although in honesty it would probably solve much of the problem I'm having with clearance, but I will admit I'm guilty of thinking how crappy a hose clamp looks when you see it around the columkn of one of these old vintage rides....anyway - this Yankee switch came with one of the mounting ears and a piece of old rusted metal strap. The strap had rectangular slots cut about every 1/4" and you slid the ears through the correct slots and ran a bolt through the hole in both ears to tighten the strap and signal switch to the column. I made a second mtg ear (since I only received one with the switch when I found it), and since the strap was pretty much junk, I found a matching 3/4" wide piece of stainless at .025 thick, and made a mounting strap for the 1 1/2 " column. With the P15 having 3 spokes in the wheel, and in effort of being able to see the indicator light on the switch, I initially indexed the signal switch to the column where the switch was riding just above the left horizontal spoke. It seemed to look completely wrong in that position and depending on how high above the wheel spoke you positioned it, it tried to somewhat obstruct the view of the gauges...so I then relocated the switch to just below the left steering wheel spoke, trying to keep it as high as possible (just to where the indicator could be seen with the wheel in the straight forward position) and this seemed like a much better placement. Even in this lower position, this signal switch tries to take up all the real estate available on the column between the wheel and the column gear shift. (I also tried placing the switch on the dash side of the gear shift lever, and again, it didn't look right to me, also seemed like it might even get in the way of a knee mounted in this slight downward position. Finally I carefully worked it in to position as shown in the attached pictures, however placement (as it is mounted at present) has it extremely close to the shift arm (when I pull the arm up simulating a future shift into reverse),...I figured OK, this isn't horse shoes - extremely close is OK,...I won't know until the tranny is in, I'll leave it as is for the time being and if I have to clearance the strap a little later down the line, that should be do-able. While doing the above, trying to get this switch in just the right place , before I tightened her down,..I also had checked how close I was to the back of the steering wheel spokes, and I had about 1/8" clearance on one spoke, and maybe a tad less on the other,....it was at this point I thought "did I check all 3 spokes" better do that, and sure enough that far spoke on the right side only clears the turn signal switch by what looks like maybe a couple of thousands,....I mean you can't even see daylight between the back of that spoke and the front of the switch, it's not hitting but it's too close to leave and I got a feeling that once it's bolted down it sure might. Two ways I could fix this without cutting on anything. (actually three ways I suppose). 1: move the turn signal switch from where I have it , to behind the gear shift to column attachment point. 2: if I change the indexing of the switch so that it rides the column above the left horizontal spoke of the steering wheel, this will allow me to move the switch back from the steering wheel just a bit. The reason it will allow for the movement is due to the mounting ears sliding through the rectangular slots in the strap. The thickness of these ears keeps the mounting strap held out/away from the column a little over a 16th of an inch right where the mtg ear is positioned. By moving the entire switch upward on the left side, the strap moves downward on the right side, and the high part of the strap, directly above the mtg ear moves away from the back of the gear shift arm.... 3:If I placed a shim washer, bushing washer, etc...into the column to move the steering wheel out a bit,....maybe something like 40 thousands or so max,...I would obviously gain that amount of clearance between the switch and that 3rd spoke of the wheel, but I also would be removing that much of the spline to spline connection between the steering wheel and the steering column shaft.. At this point, this option 3, is my preferred choice, but I'm reminded of how often the easiest choice is many times not the correct one...IS THIS A BAD IDEA GUYS ? AND OR GALS ? Thanks for the help. Steve
  7. 3046moparcoupe

    fitment of vintage yankee turn signal on P15 column

    You bet DJ, I appreciate the input. It may just boil down to that (reducing the width of the band suggestion), the band itself is 3/4" wide,...and being stainless, it would be easy breezy to take a scoop out of the width of the band just in that specific area to make for some clearance,...however it will have to go a little further than that,...the 2ea mounting ears/cleats/etc...(I'm not exactly sure what to call them) that slide through the slots in the metal band, and have the bolts holes in them where you actually do your securing down, are also 3/4" wide, so I will need to down size that piece as well,....those pieces I made out of steel, and primed and painted them, etc...but still - if I'm careful when I trim the ear piece, i should be able to touch it up well enough to prevent it from future rust,......in the scope of things - that should be very do-able,... I suppose I was looking for an even more less involved resolution that might be staring me in the face that I wasn't seeing...like maybe having that turn signal clocked in the upward position might not be as crazy looking and out of the norm as I keep thinking it would be....without seats in the car, etc...I don't know exactly where my heads gonna be,...but again, at this point, it did look odd to me to have the switch mounted up above the left horizontal hub spoke of the steering wheel,...kinda like a horn on a unicorn I should probably go look at some pictures on the internet to see what others have done, with this type Yankee turn signal switch. again, I appreciate the input... Steve
  8. I would like to take a minute here and extend a Happy Holidays wish to my forum members and express a heartfelt thank you to all of the folks here who have shared their knowledge and time to help me in my effort of working towards the restoration of our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project. Many of you have helped on occasion, and a few have really been generous with their time and knowledge helping me work through issues and concerns. I'm sure just like many of the members here on the forum, I want the very best for this old car, and that pertains down to each and every nut and bolt connection, piece and part. However, it is without a doubt obvious that I am way on the upper end of being obsessive compulsive about it all. In all honesty, if I could change it, I would, it's more of a curse than anything else...anyway - at 62 yrs old I don't suppose I'll be able to have much change on the way this old mind of mine works for the remaining years I have. That said, I would like to express my appreciation and sincere thanks for many that immediately come to mind, here on the forum, that have hung in there with me, and obviously have gone above and beyond to always try to help answer the many questions I have posted here on the forum, over the past few years.....Plymouthy Adams especially has been second to none, (as I have pm'd him so many times, even called him direct on the phone, etc...as I value his knowledge so very much, and also many others immediately come to mind, Young Ed is another that always helps and is quick to share information and knowledge with others, he has helped me many times,..DB4ya is another, Andy down in Australia,..Don Coatney is another,...and certainly over the past few years there have been quite a few others who have been good enough to share info and help me out...again, thank you all for each and every minute you took from your time to try and assist me...I am extremely thankful for your efforts, and so very thankful for the day that I found and joined this forum. Steve
  9. 3046moparcoupe

    THANK YOU ALL from Steve, the OCD King :)

    Thanks 48D, Well, in honesty I wish I could do more than just words of praise. The level/time that some of these folks have spent to help me has been quite a bit to say the least, and also as I think back after making this post, I know I have left some off that should have been mentioned,...Donald Smith, KnuckleHarley, are two that immediately come to mind and I'm sure there are others,...so forgive me if I failed to include your name in this word of thanks. Please know that it was not intentional in any way... Steve
  10. 3046moparcoupe

    fitment of vintage yankee turn signal on P15 column

    thank you Plymouthy,..I will try moving this switch upward so that I can get it to also move backwards a bit,....if I forget about trying to have solid visibility of the indicator light, I can probably still keep it low enough that it won't block the view of the amp and oil gauges, it'll just be covering up the throttle cable and headlight switch knobs...then I'll start looking for a good place to either add a separate indicator light or as you mentioned a buzzer/etc type alarm (which might be a little easier as it could be under the dash out of sight),...as I'm trying not to drill any new holes anywhere at this point. Putting that switch behind the shifter linkage to column attachment point would also solve all this, but to my eye - it would sure look like crap...I noticed in the manual, the diagram shows a press on cup that went directly behind the steering where to beautify that area, the manual notes say to remove and discard the cup when a turn signal switch is installed, so it appears they also see you as mounting the turn signal switch up close to the back of the steering wheel. Steve
  11. Hey fellow P15 owners, before I confiscate the two existing holes I just discovered on the drivers side inner fender just below the starter solenoid, to mount some circuit breakers. Maybe someone could tell me what there original purpose was for ? Each hole has a couple of threads (just like the punched in holes up on the drivers side shroud, by the core support, where the headlight t-blk mounts). They are about 2 inches apart, and are located a few inches below the rear (firewall) side of the starter solenoid. Just by the location, I'm guessing maybe some kind of support brkt that braces up the solenoid to starter cable ?? however, nothing was there on the car when I got it. I appreciate the help Steve
  12. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 Inner Fender hole Identification Question

    Thank you Tim and Ed. I appreciate your reply's back,....you both have helped me countless times over the past few years.... and I can appreciate what Tim is saying regarding a picture,...I will do that going forward,...as I'm looking for accurate reply's back, least I can do is my part to try and help insure that enough information is provided to allow that to be possible. Very good point,...not only smart, but wise.. These holes do match up with the hole spacing on the horn relay, and they are an exact physical match (where they just appeared to have punched the sheet metal inward, drilled a hole in the center and threaded the slightly over a 16th inch of curved in sheet metal around the hole, [ maybe 3-4 threads ], ) as the holes also up front on the drivers side shroud sheet metal where the headlight terminal strip mounts... Interesting that these 2 horn relay holes and the 2 holes up front for the headlight t-blk, fit a #6 metric screw perfectly....there must be an old machine screw thread that was a close match to a #6, as I sure wouldn't think they would have used anything metric on these cars originally. Thanks again forum friends.. Steve
  13. I'm wrapping up my wiring harness build and have one more correct decision to make regarding the power feed coming into the dash. I want to protect that 10 gauge wire coming straight from hot battery into the input side of the amp gauge, which then in turn goes on to power other parts of the dash electronics.. I'd rather use a fuse than a circuit breaker. My generator is rated for 35 amps max. The fuse panel I have is only rated for 30 amps max PER CKT. I've removed the amperage from my headlights coming into the dash (with an external relay), so there's 15 amps less than original design right there, I'm not going back with a radio of any kind, I also have a couple of other fused power feeds coming into the dash area for the 6vdc / 12vdc converter, so I also could use these feeds to power my heater blower motors, etc....so I will have much less amperage running through this wire than per the original design. So I've reduced my in dash amperage down to what should be well under the 30 amp rating max PER FUSE, of the fuse panel I'd like to use. But here's where I'm unsure on this,....let's say for some reason: battery condition, overall usage at a single given time, etc,....and the voltage regulator tells the generator to charge at its maximum of 35 amps....that 35 amps will be present on the hot side of the starter solenoid going back towards the battery,.....so it seems like it would also be sending 35 amps of power in towards the dash towards the amp meter on this 10 awg wire, which would cause my 30 amp fuse to blow. But when you hook up your main 6v cranking battery to that same hot side of the starter solenoid, again same wires...( which will probably be in the hundreds of amps - if cold cranking amps is anything the same as regular amps ? ) all of those cold cranking amps from the battery don't flood into the dash, obviously if they did, your 30 amp fuse on the headlight switch would blow, and your amp meter would just be pegged all the time. So is the purpose of the amp meter gauge : to tell you how many amps your generator is putting out ? , or to tell you how many amps your pulling/using into the dash area ? Does the max potential of 35 amps, just go as far as the amp meter itself ?? and if so, then the 30 amp fuse on that wire would NOT BE large enough... So before I commit , cut wires , and start adding stakon connectors,....I was hoping to confirm on this,. Again, I would like to fuse this wire from the solenoid with a 30 amp fuse,...but if that's gonna be too small, I'll go with a 40 amp ckt breaker... thanks for the help here on the forum, I'm pretty regular at needing help and asking questions,...and everyone here on the forum has been super good to send help my way. Steve
  14. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 Inner Fender hole Identification Question

    Thank you Dan, the horn relay on this car was mounted up by the horns themselves, centered between the horn mounting bracket, slightly in front of the top center of the core support. and I've since gone through and re-worked that area and left the relay there. Sounds like I can go ahead and use this spot for my circuit breakers. I appreciate the reply back on this. Many thanks. Steve.
  15. This past year I stumbled across a fella who had been mandrel bending large diameter stainless steel tubing here in the metroplex for years making custom exhaust, frames, roll cages, etc. Anyway - the fella said he was done but agreed to use the material he had left over on hand and bend up one more final system for my Plymouth project. I took him the old stock rusted steel exhaust system (before and aft of the muffler), and he bent up a complete new front to rear for me out of 304 stainless steel. Next step was to find a 2" I.D. 304 stainless 2 bolt flange to weld on to the exhaust to connect up to my exhaust manifold. Found one at Summit Racing, made by Vibrant Performance PP#VIB1470S. I'm not there yet, but when the time does come to bolt this new exhaust system to the car, I'll have to make a one shot decision on where to cut it, and how best to bolt up the ss flange of this exhaust system to the oem cast iron exhaust manifold. My concern here, is in regards to the dis-similar metals making contact and GALVANIC CORROSION. I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL INPUT FROM THE FORUM IN RESPECT TO THIS, SO PLEASE ALL INPUT IS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. As you can see in the attached pictures, the front section was bent to allow me to duplicate the way the oem pipe slid up inside the collector end of the exhaust manifold, by locating the flange down some on the vertical straight section of pipe going into the manifold. ( I've physically inserted the ss pipe up inside the exhaust manifold and you couldn't ask for a sweeter, more snug, fit. ) At present the exhaust manifold is painted with rattle can VHT exhaust manifold/header 1300-2000 degree high temp paint, and I do have a thin coat of paint inside the collector opening where the pipe would insert. In theory I suppose the paint should act as a barrier to prevent the stainless and the cast iron from coming into contact, but in the real world - I doub't that I'd bet the farm on that holding true. The manifold was cleaned up nicely when it was painted, and the paint will have had a few years to cure out, so that's a plus I suppose, but just the fact that on the description itself, which reflects a 700 degree variance window on how much heat the paint will handle ? seems odd to me , and kinda hard to believe...I'm just guessing here, but I'd guess that the manifold on this flat head six might run 600-700 degrees hot max ?? Maybe leave the input tube - but also sand off a few thousands off it, and also paint the exhaust input tube with this extreme high temp exhaust paint ?? I definitely like the idea of having the guide tube slip up inside the manifold for both pipe alignment and also for gasket alignment and longevity. Chrysler thought it was necessary and Walter was wat smarter than me But if it's gonna eat away at the female opening of my exhaust manifold, I need to try and find another way to mate this up. Thoughts I've had in regards to trying to keep these metals separated are as follows: 1: Eliminate the section of tube that inserts into the manifold and cut the pipe off flush with the top of the flange (maybe only leave a 32nd or so of pipe above the flange, just enough for the exhaust manifold gasket to center on),...and depend on the 2ea exhaust manifold bolts to hold the exhaust centered and in place. This would eliminate the ss of the exhaust from touching the cast iron manifold, due to the manifold gasket seperating the two....my exhaust bolts would be the only steel touching both surfaces,....and easy enough to replace when necessary. But - you'll see that the 2ea bolt holes in the new ss flange are both slotted rather than spot on round holes. In my mind spot on round holes might do a better job in keeping the exhaust in place, and I suppose these slots could be welded up and re-drilled in effort of achieving that. Maybe un-necessary, don't know - I do not have the experience, maybe someone out there can share back with me on this ? 2: I had thought about not using the oem style flange gasket and trying to use a donut gasket, ( if I could find one the correct size) it would keep the metals separated and the donut gasket would keep the setup centered in place, but - I can also see where I would be restricting the size of the exhaust pipe down as the donut gasket would need to have a smaller ID to stay in position and seal... There's lots of talent and experience here on the forum,i truly appreciate those of you whom are willing to, and whom have, shared it with me. Your thoughts ? Thanks again, Steve
  16. Found this toggle switch on the internet. Says it's rated for 35Amps 6volt or 20Amps 12volt. I was under the false impression I guess, that amps we're amps, and a switch wouldn't know the difference between 12v or 6v. The switch is made by Pollak, and I spoke with their tech support individual to confirm if this was a misprint, and he didn't hesitate for a minute to say that the rating was accurate, and that this was one of their most popular toggle switches. I tried surfing the internet to possible find any info regarding switch ratings and really didn't come up with much, other than folks recommending going by the mfg specs. I did find some good info on the difference in ratings for switches that are AC (alternating current) rated,and DC (direct current) rated...and the fact that how a switch used for DC power must be heavier built and has a tougher life due to the basic difference in the way current flows between AC and DC...Never had thought about that before, but often a switch can be flipped on an AC circuit, and experience almost zero arc, due to the current alternating between + and -, course this never happens with DC... I also tried attaching the mfg's spec sheet to this post, which also shows the switch to be rated for 35 amps at 6V, and 20 amps at 12V. QUESTION: Does this heavier amp rating for 6v sound correct and make sense to you electrical wizards out there ? thanks again, Steve 33-300_d.tif
  17. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    found this over on the HAMB web site: "So, if you double the voltage, the amperage will be halved for the same total power.When you're dealing with DC power, you would want a breaker with a voltage rating at least equal to, or higher than, the voltage of your system. If you find breakers rated for 12V, or 24V, either of them should be fine for your 6V system. However, a 6V rated breaker could give you problems if you used it in a 12V system."
  18. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    Thanks plymouthy, yes Sir, I see where the formula for watts is (amps x volts = watts),...so , 6v x 35 amps = 210 watts, and 12v x 20 amps = 240 watts. 6v systems run higher amperage than 12v systems, so they utilize heavier gauge wiring. Seems like the same would apply for the switch contacts handling the amperage as well. But according to the rating of this switch, the opposite is actually true... I apologize for being short a few amps/watts myself upstairs, but this correlation is throwing me a curve. I'm sure it's correct or I know you'd have pointed it out, so I'll start reading to find the answer to get this straight in my head. Steve..
  19. I was fortunate in having the original wiring harness still in place on this car when we started this project. So I carefully removed it one conductor at a time and labeled things. That said, I think I should be on the correct path here, but I would appreciate the confirmation back before I just start trying to make this fit. Almost got the entire under dash wired, and just tried to insert the bulb socket ( I had identified as belonging to the high beam indicator light above the instrument cluster on top of the dash ), and it seems like the diameter of the round bulb socket finger opening is about the same size as the diameter of the high beam barrel sleeve. Doesn't want to readily slide over the barrel sleeve and doesn't want to insert inside the barrel hole like the other dash light bulb sockets. The socket fingers don't look to be out of shape / bent irregularly / etc. ..fairly round and uniform to my eye... it's been 3 years since I removed this harness, so heck if I can remember how this socket came off. My guess is that it does grab from the outside of the barrel tube (slides over if you will rather than inserts into it), and the fact that I've painted the socket receptacle barrel is what's causing the interference. Figured It would be wise to try and confirm with the forum if possible before proceeding with a bit of force on this. Is this the correct high beam indicator light bulb socket, for a P15 ? Does it slide over the fixture barrel sleeve with the fingers grabbing from the outside ? Thank you all again for the continued help, here on the forum. I do appreciate it. You realize as your working to put things back together, how many ground contact surfaces you've painted over...:) I'll have my work cut out for me getting a good ground everywhere it has to be around this dash area...!! Steve
  20. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Hello Bob, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures for me,...….I have the exact same orange parts book who show here (man I love that parts manual. It has been an incredible asset in searching for parts and pieces,....I treat it like gold :), I've also got the exact same motors repair manual, and I've got the same Plymouth ( red, white & gray) service manual you show. Only one I don't have that you show is the two tone red Plymouth service manual you show, and mention that it is the next best book in your opinion.....Is that manual where the diagrams you attached in this post showing the instrument cluster detail, came from ? Thanks for your help Steve
  21. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Many thanks guys, especially Bob's pictures,...I sure would be interested in getting my hands on whatever old Plymouth manual those pictures came from, incredible detail,...seriously I'd like to know so I can be on the lookout through ebay, etc... Yep, that second bulb socket I have (see attached pic #2 to this post), looks like an exact match for what Bob's pics show. I went out and tried it and it snapped in place nice and firm, so I went to splice it onto my new wire and started cut back into the cloth wire to find black corroded copper, cut a little farther, still dark and nasty looking, finally ended up just removing the original cloth wire pigtail from the incorrect socket and using it. Worked like a champ. I stumbled on this yesterday, ( surprised I hadn't noticed it before, as much as I've looked at the P15 wiring diagram in my manual). it shows an extra light bulb wired off the dash light switch labeled as "speedometer light",...so all together it shows : two instrument/gauges light bulbs, one ignition sw. light bulb, a high beam indicator light bulb, and a speedometer light bulb. Unless I'm blind in one eye and can't see out of the other, my speedometer assembly has no hole for a bulb socket in it,....just the two each larger bulb holes on each side of the gauges/speedo assembly, so I've got a total of 3 light bulbs wired off of my dash light switch, (not four as the manual shows). Thank you all again for the tremendous help and support here on the forum. Steve
  22. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Ron, I looked back at my manual - and you are correct, it does show them as being "black"...I was seeing them as a very dark brown,...must be a combination of age and dirt that made them look dark brown to me.,..but absolutely Yes, black is the correct spec for the dash light wiring harness color. Good eye there Thanks for your input, you always add value and I appreciate it.
  23. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Thank you Andy, Ed and Rob. Pretty amazing the story these old cars can tell as you work your way through their pieces and parts. Ed, your wiring harness pic is especially helpful in that it shows me your socket connector and also something regarding wiring color code. Your harness (just like mine) has a total of 4ea instrument /dash light bulb sockets. Two that are larger for both sides of the instrument cluster, and two that are smaller that light up the key hole and the high beam indicator. Just like yours, my smaller 3 wire socket harness that connects the two large gauge lights and the key hole light are all wired together to a single stakon connector that connects to the dash light switch, using 14 awg brown wire. My smaller socket harness was in perfect condition so I re-used it, so it was impossible for me to get any part of this smaller harness confused. This 14awg brown wire color also matches the color code shown for these cars in the wiring schematics. Per the wiring schematics the 14 awg wire to the high beam indicator light is supposed to be orange. That color also looks to be a match for what you have on your high beam indicator wire and is a match for what I had on my high beam indicator wire shown in the picture I attached to the beginning of this post. An orange wire with a broken blue hash mark line which codes the wire as 14 awg… Pretty interesting that my high beam indicator wire was not cut or spliced anywhere, but had this odd ball bulb socket on it. Seems like it would be difficult for the socket to get damaged, requiring replacement, when the remainder of the sockets are so perfect...and if it was replaced, I guess it would have been easy enough for someone to cut off the crimped contact on the end, replace the socket, and crimp on a new contact.....as Rob stated in the previous post, him recognizing the bulb socket as a Chinese aftermarket sure may be the answer as to how it got there. With this socket being hard to reach, maybe someone broke a finger or two off the original and did this as a replacement. I was beginning to think that maybe the factory just grabbed whatever they had the day the car was coming through the line..:) Anyway - Ed after seeing your picture (thank you again), I have a spare bulb socket that came with an ignition switch assembly that I bought off of Ebay. My original ignition switch was worn and sloppy internally and sometimes the key would try to hang , etc....when I got the replacement ignition switch - they had just cut off all the wires going to the switch rather than undo them, and I also got the bulb socket that lights the key hole. Again brown 14 awg wire on this socket. I've attached a picture of this socket to this reply. From what I can tell in your wiring harness pic you sent, this looks like what you have attached to your high beam indicator light. Would you mind taking a quick look to compare and let me know back ?, and it would also be helpful if you could look on our end to see if your high beam bulb socket and your key hole socket measure the same dimension. From the picture they sure look the same but I suppose if one were slightly different in size I wouldn't be able to tell from just looking at a pic. Kinda stand to reason that there should not be an in-between, or slightly smaller size, as I believe there were just two size bulbs, standard bayonet and mini bayonet.. Thank you all again for the help. Steve
  24. When we got our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project it had two of everything (two heater cores), (two blower motor assemblies), etc...the main (larger unit) was connected to the fresh air box on the passenger side and it contains the mechanism/doorway to adjust between heater and defrost...the smaller unit hung off the fresh air box on the drivers side and strictly served as a heater for the interior cab of the car. Over the past few years of learning here on the forum, I've come to know this setup as being the deluxe heater assy for these old mopar cars. When I was taking this all apart, everything looked factory to me,..EXCEPT,...some of the holes in the firewall where the heater core in/out tubes connect through the firewall, looked like they were cut out with a hammer and a chisel, (actually not that bad - but uneven oblong shaped holes with some pretty rough cuts. This made me wonder if an individual had done the upgrade themselves or if possible a small dealership had done it, etc… who knows, only time I suppose....:) All that said, and with things now going back together, here's my brain fart/question for the day in regards to all this. For you guys and/or gals out there who have the dual heater setup. Would not the heater on/off switch also need to be upgraded to power the additional motor ? I'm wondering if I've got the correct heater motor switch for this dual setup. Any way to identify and know for sure ? or was there just a single switch offered that was capable of carrying everything from the budget heater assy up to the deluxe version ? I went through the switch that was in this car, and cleaned up the internal contact surfaces and greased it, however I don't believe there is any kind of identifying part number on the thing. It does have two (2) ceramic cylinder shaped resistors on the switch for low and high I would suppose. Thought it might be wise to run this by you folks with experience, as I definitely don't need any electrical issues like this later on, especially with one of the larger amp draw electrical accessories like the blower motors. Thanks so much for the help. This forum is exceptional. Steve
  25. 3046moparcoupe

    heater switch ? for deluxe dual heater setup in P15

    DB4ya, as mentioned in my original post,....yes sir - my heater switch has two resistor coils, each encased inside it's own tubular ceramic shell,.... as previously mentioned, I was thinking it was for multiple speeds,...but now that you have shed light on this,....if there's only a "low" and a "high", why would there be a resistor for the high speed ? there wouldn't be one , would there ? low speed for each motor would use the resistors, then the high speed would run off the 6v direct to each motor - by-passing the resistors completely. Once again, I show my failing mental capacity this getting old thing stinks !! I would think that in a few weeks , when I extend the wiring harness in and under the dash and wire the switch up, that this would have made itself evident in my head, but none the less - I know now whats up, and it's very much appreciated on this end. Yes sir, thank you again DB4ya...I appreciate your efforts to take the time to set me on the straight path, once again.. Steve
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