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Everything posted by 3046moparcoupe

  1. My new headlight/turnsignal harness wires are extended up past the inner fenders, through the new terminal blocks, and I have the wires coiled up and laying in the splash tray area of sheet metal. under the core support where they are waiting for the day when they'll connect up to the headlights and turn signals. I left myself plenty of wire coming off of the t-blks to reach the headlights and turn signals, so it would seem like it would be better to avoid another splice anywhere between the t-blks and the lights themselves...(just another place for possible corrosion,etc...course if I'm overlooking something here in my thinking about not having a splice,..please chime in and set me straight on this)... So I'm thinking I'm gonna need to get the connectors, the connector pins that will be crimped and inserted into the connectors, and a good hand crimping tool to get the job done. I've learned that all crimping tools are not equal, and with this being one of the higher amp draws areas of the electrical system (still a 6v system), I would appreciate input from my forum members on this. From what I've been able to try and learn about this process, from reading on this computer...I't appears as though I'm looking at the old standard h4 (9003) 3 prong sealed beam type headlight connector plug.....(some are plastic, and some are ceramic (which I believe is necessary to handle the higher heat of the halogen type bulbs),...again, please correct me if I'm wrong on this,...anyway - these connectors aren't expensive, so if it's wise to go with the ceramic due to longevity/quality/etc...that would make sense to me, even if I'm planning on using standard sealed beam headlight bulbs.\ Also in studying the pins, I have found that there are some steel pins available that are rated for the heavier 10-12 awg wire, (as all of the brass pins I saw were rated for 14-16 awg wire only),...so I need to take that into consideration to make sure that my pins are adequate to handle the load and wire size demands......I did also see where the pins are available in both female and male configurations. I don't believe I've ever seen a standard sealed beam bulb that didn't have 3 male spades extending out from the rear of the bulb, but this part seems straight forward easy peezy enough, just make sure when I purchase my bulbs that they do have male spades and order the females,.....one thing however on the connector pins themselves, they seem to be offered in both open end and locking type, and I believe the ones I found that were rated for 10-12 awg wire were only available in the locking tab type,...(is this a concern or problem ? ) lastly, on the crimper itself,...from what I've read, I believe what I need is referred to as an "open barrel type crimper" ? And if this is the correct description for the tool, One that will handle 10-12awg crimps (yellow). of which one groove will crimp the pin to the insulation and one groove will crimp the pin to the conductor when you go through the crimping process two times for each wire to be crimped down to the pin. I suppose every part/piece is as critical as the other in ending up with a job well done that will last and work as it should...( Certainly the crimper tool itself is of major importance)..I've looked at some of what is out there and fortunately the open barrel type crimpers don't appear to be real expensive, so yeah !! for that :). I would really appreciate any input for my forum members regarding this process, in respect to all the pieces and parts as described above, I know Thomas and Betts is a really good name in regards to crimpers, etc...again any help and info would be much appreciated...and I would like to purchase parts and a tool that will do the job as well as is possible for an old pudding head like myself Thanks again for all the help and direction. Steve
  2. YES, rectangular spring plate mounts on top of Linkage mtg plate. Then the forward 2 holes in the spring plate mate up and bolt to your linkage pivot rod..
  3. Thank you Andy and Frank,...I just wanted to post as I thought it might allow someone a few hours of affordable fun to make a quick little eye candy add on. The folks on this forum have been amazing sending ideas, help, encouragement, support, back my way over the past 5 years. If more of our young folks could be encouraged, taught, mentored along this path, of restoring an old car like this,..I do believe it would greatly change their lives for the better. To work with your hands and mind, (not a smart phone/lap top screen) and actually make something,. Overcoming the obstacles, perseverance, etc....you guys know exactly what I'm talking about,...anyway - I think their future's would never be the same, in regards to what they would learn about life and themselves. Thxs again P15 forum,
  4. Just wanted to share a lap here on the forum with my fellow P15 members. I'm pretty much a one way valve here on the forum (always asking for help), but maybe this small thing will allow someone to have a little fun. When I added my turn signal to the column, the 6-8" of wire running down the side of the column kept catching my eye. I kept trying to figure out a way to support the wire, or even to hide it would have been the best choice. Found this bracket on ebay, it's listed as Arlen Ness Tech Chrome Radius Clutch Cable Brkt 1 1/2" billet..it cost me $9.95 delivered to my door. The bracket is made out of aluminum that's been chrome plated. My painted steering column OD measured right at 1.510 thousands. The ID on the clamp I received wasn't exactly a perfect circle. It measured from around 1.470 " - 1.495 ". So the manufacture is counting on the bracket to bolt down with a firm interference fit. (which would make sense as this is mfg'd to go on a motorcycle frame tube). Anyhoo - with the base metal being aluminum, I thought what the heck and I took a round bastard file and filed away at the inside I.D. of the clamp to enlarge the opening. Took me about three attempts to finally get the opening large enough to mount to my column. The bastard file would remove the aluminum fairly quickly, then I'd follow up with a wheel cylinder hone to smooth everything out. I didn't want to scar my paint on the column, every time I trail fitted the bracket to see if it was large enough, I would tape the hole opening of the brkt with cloroplast cloth wire harness friction tape. I finally ended up removing around .040 thousands of aluminum from the ID of the brkt hole, but with the cloth tape in place (cut to where you can't see it), I was able to slip the brkt onto the column, tighten the single mounting screw that holds the 2 sections of the brkt together, and the brkt stayed nice and snug on the column. Ten I was able to remove the brkt and there was no evidence of marking, etc. in the paint... Obviously I went through the chrome plating, when opening up the hole in the brkt, and had this been steel - I would not have even tried it. But being aluminum, well see if over time any issues of corrosion or flaking away of the chrome takes place. Again, being aluminum base stock, I would think it could just be polished out if that did happen, or if a person wanted to get it re-chromed, etc.. I've attached three pics. There are a few different styles of these on ebay. one was a bit more of the squared off billet chrome shape, one was black, and the other (like I purchased) has the rounded off smooth shoulders which I thought looked more like a part that might have come on the car. The small wire support hole opening is 3/8". I ran 14 awg wires down my column and even with my wires wrapped with a single overlap wrap, I have a small bit of play, so none of the wires are being pinched or in a bind....if you ran 16awg wire like the manual shows, you might even have enough room for some plastic tubing, which might look pretty clean and trick. Anyway - this made for a fun couple of hours. Enjoy !! Steve
  5. Cold Blue, thank you very much. I really appreciate it. I just got back inside from working at aligning up the glove box door so that it was a fit to the dash opening, then I loosely attached the striker to the lip the way I thought it was supposed to go, (opposite of the way you show in your picture), then fortunately while easing the door towards the striker I could see through the side gap opening, and the head of that bolt on the striker looked to be way too low. ..even when I rotated the bolt head (which is offset like a cam), it still looked way too low,..... So again THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT, your picture confirms what I felt I was seeing, lapping the striker plate around to the back side will raise the striker assembly a good 3/16 " or so... Wish I could return the favor.. Steve
  6. I always liked to draw, I really enjoyed doing lettering, sign work, stuff like that, but I'm getting older and definitely not as steady as I used to be...( heck, I wish I had the second nature mechanic ability so many here on the forum process, it's always greener on the other side I suppose),...anyway thanks for the reply Knuckleharley. In one of my pics I took back when tearing down, I got just the very edge of this striker in the photo, so I believe it mounts up to the outside/front side of the glove boor door lip like I'm showing in the first attached picture...course if I was sure I wouldn't be asking,..I suppose I should be able to just go slow and through process of elimination determine which way it lines up best with the door latch (without screwing things up, getting something in a bind, etc.) but hopefully someone will be able to just take a quick look for me, and I should be a step ahead of the guessing game. Steve
  7. I did take quite a few pictures and made quite a few diagrams when dis-assembling, but here's another example of where I failed to preserve the info I needed to. Question please for my fellow 46-48 P15 forum member owners. Does the glove box door striker mount up to the outside or the inside (in front or behind) of the glove box door lip ? I attached a couple of pics to eliminate confusion with the question I'm asking. If someone could take a look for me and let me know back it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help. Steve
  8. Thanks Ed and Tim, I know this is awfully trivial,. I'm gonna get out there tomorrow and doing some relocating and moving on this thing,...to see if I can find a good home for it., One reason I was asking about moving it down the column is that I was looking through P15 dash pics here on the internet and I saw a few that had the signal switch mounted lower, between the shiifter and the dash,...it didn't seem to look that bad in the photos, course they may not be long legged either,....I'm a little over 6 ft, (however slowly shrinking as time fly's by)... thanks for the pic Ed... I wish we still had the old chat feature, it was nice to visit on here that way.. Steve
  9. DB4YA, I originally had enough vertical length on this pipe (before the flange was welded on) to have it insert up into the exhaust manifold just like the old rusted steel exhaust system that came off it, however I was bothered about Galvanic Corrosion eating away at the inside of my cast iron manifold if I did that...…so I began trying to figure a way to connect this up and protect my cast iron manifold. At one point - I did what I'm obviously really good at, and posted the question here on the forum, many folks said they wouldn't worry about corrosion happening, etc,..but I was also asking about the purpose of the extension piece of pipe,....I guess no one in the know at the time happened along at the right time to help me out on that, cause I hadn't seen anyone mention that the real purpose of the pipe was to help prevent gasket blowout,....certainly makes sense however, I had more envisioned it's purpose as centering the exhaust pipe to the manifold as the exhaust pipe flange holes were 1/2" and the exhaust manifold holes were smaller at 7/16",...anyway - as PLYJM mentioned, I'm definitely past that now,.... I suppose if I have issues and can't keep a gasket in the flange, maybe I can have a short piece tack welded in later, I've been blocking the gasket surface side of this flange with a large file as Plymouthy suggested, and I've almost got it to where a stainless draftsman straight edge ruler lays perfectly flush in all directions, with not even the slightest light showing through between the edge of the ruler and the flange surface... I've got a Victor 5438AK 2 hole flat flange gasket which looks to be a good 1/16th inch thick and appears to have a thin metal layer sandwiched inside between the outer fiber material..so I can see where this gasket has enough depth to compensate for a bit of irregularity on the flange surface, but I felt my chances to eliminate gasket blowout and to try and have even pressure on my cast iron exhaust flange (as not to crack it), was to try and get the flange as true straight as I possible could.....I'm almost there, I can still see just a but of gap out on the very outer edges of the exhaust pipe flange,...I would say by the time I have it dead on flat, I will have made this 3/8" thick stainless steel a little over a 32nd " thinner in the very middle of the flange up close to the pipe, and course it's still almost it's initial 3/8" thickness out on the ends... I've heard folks mention a flat gasket like this Victor 5438AK, but one that also has a sleeve that goes up inside the pipe, I wonder if that would be a possibility for my situation ? Steve
  10. Question please, any of you P15 folks out there have your turn signal switch mounted to the column between the dash and the column gear shift anchor point ? I've been trying to mount a Yankee 960 turn signal switch between the steering wheel and the gear shift anchor point on the column, and there's just not quite enough real estate, however moving it down on the column that far (to between the gear shift and the dash) looks a little un-natural to me, and almost looks as though it could get in the way of a knee on a long legged person ?? maybe I'm wrong...re-locating it there would certainly solve all the space issues...all reply's welcome.. I appreciate the input.. Steve
  11. Submitting this post under the old mindset saying of "an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure" Almost wishing I would never have persured the idea of getting a 304 ss exhaust system on this old car, but I have too much skin in the game now to not continue onward with the effort. I spent quite a while researching the area for someone who tig welded, and who could answered the questions I had learned to ask in regards to trying to get this flange welded on to the exhaust pipe correctly. What type of filler wire do you use for 304 stainless ? answer : 308, what type of gas ? answer ; Argon,....etc....finally found a fella that did a lot of TIG welding, he also had a small machine shop, and I was impressed (gut feeling) with the guy in all aspects of how he carried and conducted himself.... Picked the piece up, beautiful weld,...and I know without a doubt the fella wen tout of his way to do the absolute best for me he could. reason I say that, is I had taken him a 304 stainless flange I had purchased from Summit racing, which had slotted bolt holes in it. We had discussed cutting the oval slots out of the flange, in the shape of a round plug, and making 2ea round inserts that would fir into the cutouts. These inserts would be drilled with the round 7/16" hole and would serve to keep the exhaust pipe centered at the manifold. once he started the process, he realized that it would be less work and a far better end result to just make an entire new flange out of 304 stainless (3/8" thick just like the one I brought him), position and drill the holes and weld the flange on....and that what he did... Got underneath the car yesterday and the bolt holes are a snug fit, but the 2ea 7/16" bolts did both fit through the exhaust manifold holes and through the exhaust pipe flange holes. pulled te pipe back off, and another close look at the flange had me walk over to my bench and grab a straight edge,...during the process of welding, the flange warped some....when laying a flat edge on the gasket surface, out on each far end of the flange I see about a 32nd" of gap, which of course slowly diminishes on both sides as you move inwards towards the center. According to the flat edge, almost all of the warp is from the mounting holes outward,....my only thought was to work with flat files to true this surface up again....as I realize that gasket material could take up some of this, but I also feel I gotta have even surface pressure for the gasket to last, and most importantly to not end up cracking the mounting ears on my cast iron manifold. I've filed for about 4-5 hours now, and it's incredible slow,...course that's OK, I don't much care how long it takes to end up with the proper result...however I got to thinking and wondering today, if their might be a better way,...I don't know that I'd trust anyone to mill it, as I haven't had much good luck with machinest so far in this area...I('m just wondering if it could be straightened out with heat, or some other process,..?? I'm just removing material, which might be OK,...might make this flange weaker down the line in regards to future possible warpage from heating and cooling down....?? a possible question for you forum members out there with more experience than I...again , this flange is 3/8" thick (which is a bit thicker than the old rusted flange on my old exhaust that came off the car (which looks to measure around 5/16 " thick)….if I continue to file on this, I will have to remove a little over a 32nd of material across the face of the flange to get it square. I'm doing my best to cross hatch when I file, even circular motions, and always holding the file with the palm of my hand, and holding and pressing the file up against the flange in the very center of the flange,....in effort of trying to get it as true flat as possible. Certainly something wide enough to cover the entire flange on every pass would be better....?? All thoughts and input greatly appreciated. thank you again Steve
  12. You bet DJ, I appreciate the input. It may just boil down to that (reducing the width of the band suggestion), the band itself is 3/4" wide,...and being stainless, it would be easy breezy to take a scoop out of the width of the band just in that specific area to make for some clearance,...however it will have to go a little further than that,...the 2ea mounting ears/cleats/etc...(I'm not exactly sure what to call them) that slide through the slots in the metal band, and have the bolts holes in them where you actually do your securing down, are also 3/4" wide, so I will need to down size that piece as well,....those pieces I made out of steel, and primed and painted them, etc...but still - if I'm careful when I trim the ear piece, i should be able to touch it up well enough to prevent it from future rust,......in the scope of things - that should be very do-able,... I suppose I was looking for an even more less involved resolution that might be staring me in the face that I wasn't seeing...like maybe having that turn signal clocked in the upward position might not be as crazy looking and out of the norm as I keep thinking it would be....without seats in the car, etc...I don't know exactly where my heads gonna be,...but again, at this point, it did look odd to me to have the switch mounted up above the left horizontal hub spoke of the steering wheel,...kinda like a horn on a unicorn I should probably go look at some pictures on the internet to see what others have done, with this type Yankee turn signal switch. again, I appreciate the input... Steve
  13. Thanks 48D, Well, in honesty I wish I could do more than just words of praise. The level/time that some of these folks have spent to help me has been quite a bit to say the least, and also as I think back after making this post, I know I have left some off that should have been mentioned,...Donald Smith, KnuckleHarley, are two that immediately come to mind and I'm sure there are others,...so forgive me if I failed to include your name in this word of thanks. Please know that it was not intentional in any way... Steve
  14. I would like to take a minute here and extend a Happy Holidays wish to my forum members and express a heartfelt thank you to all of the folks here who have shared their knowledge and time to help me in my effort of working towards the restoration of our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project. Many of you have helped on occasion, and a few have really been generous with their time and knowledge helping me work through issues and concerns. I'm sure just like many of the members here on the forum, I want the very best for this old car, and that pertains down to each and every nut and bolt connection, piece and part. However, it is without a doubt obvious that I am way on the upper end of being obsessive compulsive about it all. In all honesty, if I could change it, I would, it's more of a curse than anything else...anyway - at 62 yrs old I don't suppose I'll be able to have much change on the way this old mind of mine works for the remaining years I have. That said, I would like to express my appreciation and sincere thanks for many that immediately come to mind, here on the forum, that have hung in there with me, and obviously have gone above and beyond to always try to help answer the many questions I have posted here on the forum, over the past few years.....Plymouthy Adams especially has been second to none, (as I have pm'd him so many times, even called him direct on the phone, etc...as I value his knowledge so very much, and also many others immediately come to mind, Young Ed is another that always helps and is quick to share information and knowledge with others, he has helped me many times,..DB4ya is another, Andy down in Australia,..Don Coatney is another,...and certainly over the past few years there have been quite a few others who have been good enough to share info and help me out...again, thank you all for each and every minute you took from your time to try and assist me...I am extremely thankful for your efforts, and so very thankful for the day that I found and joined this forum. Steve
  15. thank you Plymouthy,..I will try moving this switch upward so that I can get it to also move backwards a bit,....if I forget about trying to have solid visibility of the indicator light, I can probably still keep it low enough that it won't block the view of the amp and oil gauges, it'll just be covering up the throttle cable and headlight switch knobs...then I'll start looking for a good place to either add a separate indicator light or as you mentioned a buzzer/etc type alarm (which might be a little easier as it could be under the dash out of sight),...as I'm trying not to drill any new holes anywhere at this point. Putting that switch behind the shifter linkage to column attachment point would also solve all this, but to my eye - it would sure look like crap...I noticed in the manual, the diagram shows a press on cup that went directly behind the steering where to beautify that area, the manual notes say to remove and discard the cup when a turn signal switch is installed, so it appears they also see you as mounting the turn signal switch up close to the back of the steering wheel. Steve
  16. Almost got the car wiring completed. Thought I get the Yankee turn signal switch I went through this past summer mounted to the column and wired in. I hated to use a hose clamp, although in honesty it would probably solve much of the problem I'm having with clearance, but I will admit I'm guilty of thinking how crappy a hose clamp looks when you see it around the columkn of one of these old vintage rides....anyway - this Yankee switch came with one of the mounting ears and a piece of old rusted metal strap. The strap had rectangular slots cut about every 1/4" and you slid the ears through the correct slots and ran a bolt through the hole in both ears to tighten the strap and signal switch to the column. I made a second mtg ear (since I only received one with the switch when I found it), and since the strap was pretty much junk, I found a matching 3/4" wide piece of stainless at .025 thick, and made a mounting strap for the 1 1/2 " column. With the P15 having 3 spokes in the wheel, and in effort of being able to see the indicator light on the switch, I initially indexed the signal switch to the column where the switch was riding just above the left horizontal spoke. It seemed to look completely wrong in that position and depending on how high above the wheel spoke you positioned it, it tried to somewhat obstruct the view of the gauges...so I then relocated the switch to just below the left steering wheel spoke, trying to keep it as high as possible (just to where the indicator could be seen with the wheel in the straight forward position) and this seemed like a much better placement. Even in this lower position, this signal switch tries to take up all the real estate available on the column between the wheel and the column gear shift. (I also tried placing the switch on the dash side of the gear shift lever, and again, it didn't look right to me, also seemed like it might even get in the way of a knee mounted in this slight downward position. Finally I carefully worked it in to position as shown in the attached pictures, however placement (as it is mounted at present) has it extremely close to the shift arm (when I pull the arm up simulating a future shift into reverse),...I figured OK, this isn't horse shoes - extremely close is OK,...I won't know until the tranny is in, I'll leave it as is for the time being and if I have to clearance the strap a little later down the line, that should be do-able. While doing the above, trying to get this switch in just the right place , before I tightened her down,..I also had checked how close I was to the back of the steering wheel spokes, and I had about 1/8" clearance on one spoke, and maybe a tad less on the other,....it was at this point I thought "did I check all 3 spokes" better do that, and sure enough that far spoke on the right side only clears the turn signal switch by what looks like maybe a couple of thousands,....I mean you can't even see daylight between the back of that spoke and the front of the switch, it's not hitting but it's too close to leave and I got a feeling that once it's bolted down it sure might. Two ways I could fix this without cutting on anything. (actually three ways I suppose). 1: move the turn signal switch from where I have it , to behind the gear shift to column attachment point. 2: if I change the indexing of the switch so that it rides the column above the left horizontal spoke of the steering wheel, this will allow me to move the switch back from the steering wheel just a bit. The reason it will allow for the movement is due to the mounting ears sliding through the rectangular slots in the strap. The thickness of these ears keeps the mounting strap held out/away from the column a little over a 16th of an inch right where the mtg ear is positioned. By moving the entire switch upward on the left side, the strap moves downward on the right side, and the high part of the strap, directly above the mtg ear moves away from the back of the gear shift arm.... 3:If I placed a shim washer, bushing washer, etc...into the column to move the steering wheel out a bit,....maybe something like 40 thousands or so max,...I would obviously gain that amount of clearance between the switch and that 3rd spoke of the wheel, but I also would be removing that much of the spline to spline connection between the steering wheel and the steering column shaft.. At this point, this option 3, is my preferred choice, but I'm reminded of how often the easiest choice is many times not the correct one...IS THIS A BAD IDEA GUYS ? AND OR GALS ? Thanks for the help. Steve
  17. Thank you Tim and Ed. I appreciate your reply's back,....you both have helped me countless times over the past few years.... and I can appreciate what Tim is saying regarding a picture,...I will do that going forward,...as I'm looking for accurate reply's back, least I can do is my part to try and help insure that enough information is provided to allow that to be possible. Very good point,...not only smart, but wise.. These holes do match up with the hole spacing on the horn relay, and they are an exact physical match (where they just appeared to have punched the sheet metal inward, drilled a hole in the center and threaded the slightly over a 16th inch of curved in sheet metal around the hole, [ maybe 3-4 threads ], ) as the holes also up front on the drivers side shroud sheet metal where the headlight terminal strip mounts... Interesting that these 2 horn relay holes and the 2 holes up front for the headlight t-blk, fit a #6 metric screw perfectly....there must be an old machine screw thread that was a close match to a #6, as I sure wouldn't think they would have used anything metric on these cars originally. Thanks again forum friends.. Steve
  18. I'm wrapping up my wiring harness build and have one more correct decision to make regarding the power feed coming into the dash. I want to protect that 10 gauge wire coming straight from hot battery into the input side of the amp gauge, which then in turn goes on to power other parts of the dash electronics.. I'd rather use a fuse than a circuit breaker. My generator is rated for 35 amps max. The fuse panel I have is only rated for 30 amps max PER CKT. I've removed the amperage from my headlights coming into the dash (with an external relay), so there's 15 amps less than original design right there, I'm not going back with a radio of any kind, I also have a couple of other fused power feeds coming into the dash area for the 6vdc / 12vdc converter, so I also could use these feeds to power my heater blower motors, etc....so I will have much less amperage running through this wire than per the original design. So I've reduced my in dash amperage down to what should be well under the 30 amp rating max PER FUSE, of the fuse panel I'd like to use. But here's where I'm unsure on this,....let's say for some reason: battery condition, overall usage at a single given time, etc,....and the voltage regulator tells the generator to charge at its maximum of 35 amps....that 35 amps will be present on the hot side of the starter solenoid going back towards the battery,.....so it seems like it would also be sending 35 amps of power in towards the dash towards the amp meter on this 10 awg wire, which would cause my 30 amp fuse to blow. But when you hook up your main 6v cranking battery to that same hot side of the starter solenoid, again same wires...( which will probably be in the hundreds of amps - if cold cranking amps is anything the same as regular amps ? ) all of those cold cranking amps from the battery don't flood into the dash, obviously if they did, your 30 amp fuse on the headlight switch would blow, and your amp meter would just be pegged all the time. So is the purpose of the amp meter gauge : to tell you how many amps your generator is putting out ? , or to tell you how many amps your pulling/using into the dash area ? Does the max potential of 35 amps, just go as far as the amp meter itself ?? and if so, then the 30 amp fuse on that wire would NOT BE large enough... So before I commit , cut wires , and start adding stakon connectors,....I was hoping to confirm on this,. Again, I would like to fuse this wire from the solenoid with a 30 amp fuse,...but if that's gonna be too small, I'll go with a 40 amp ckt breaker... thanks for the help here on the forum, I'm pretty regular at needing help and asking questions,...and everyone here on the forum has been super good to send help my way. Steve
  19. Thank you Dan, the horn relay on this car was mounted up by the horns themselves, centered between the horn mounting bracket, slightly in front of the top center of the core support. and I've since gone through and re-worked that area and left the relay there. Sounds like I can go ahead and use this spot for my circuit breakers. I appreciate the reply back on this. Many thanks. Steve.
  20. Hey fellow P15 owners, before I confiscate the two existing holes I just discovered on the drivers side inner fender just below the starter solenoid, to mount some circuit breakers. Maybe someone could tell me what there original purpose was for ? Each hole has a couple of threads (just like the punched in holes up on the drivers side shroud, by the core support, where the headlight t-blk mounts). They are about 2 inches apart, and are located a few inches below the rear (firewall) side of the starter solenoid. Just by the location, I'm guessing maybe some kind of support brkt that braces up the solenoid to starter cable ?? however, nothing was there on the car when I got it. I appreciate the help Steve
  21. This past year I stumbled across a fella who had been mandrel bending large diameter stainless steel tubing here in the metroplex for years making custom exhaust, frames, roll cages, etc. Anyway - the fella said he was done but agreed to use the material he had left over on hand and bend up one more final system for my Plymouth project. I took him the old stock rusted steel exhaust system (before and aft of the muffler), and he bent up a complete new front to rear for me out of 304 stainless steel. Next step was to find a 2" I.D. 304 stainless 2 bolt flange to weld on to the exhaust to connect up to my exhaust manifold. Found one at Summit Racing, made by Vibrant Performance PP#VIB1470S. I'm not there yet, but when the time does come to bolt this new exhaust system to the car, I'll have to make a one shot decision on where to cut it, and how best to bolt up the ss flange of this exhaust system to the oem cast iron exhaust manifold. My concern here, is in regards to the dis-similar metals making contact and GALVANIC CORROSION. I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL INPUT FROM THE FORUM IN RESPECT TO THIS, SO PLEASE ALL INPUT IS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. As you can see in the attached pictures, the front section was bent to allow me to duplicate the way the oem pipe slid up inside the collector end of the exhaust manifold, by locating the flange down some on the vertical straight section of pipe going into the manifold. ( I've physically inserted the ss pipe up inside the exhaust manifold and you couldn't ask for a sweeter, more snug, fit. ) At present the exhaust manifold is painted with rattle can VHT exhaust manifold/header 1300-2000 degree high temp paint, and I do have a thin coat of paint inside the collector opening where the pipe would insert. In theory I suppose the paint should act as a barrier to prevent the stainless and the cast iron from coming into contact, but in the real world - I doub't that I'd bet the farm on that holding true. The manifold was cleaned up nicely when it was painted, and the paint will have had a few years to cure out, so that's a plus I suppose, but just the fact that on the description itself, which reflects a 700 degree variance window on how much heat the paint will handle ? seems odd to me , and kinda hard to believe...I'm just guessing here, but I'd guess that the manifold on this flat head six might run 600-700 degrees hot max ?? Maybe leave the input tube - but also sand off a few thousands off it, and also paint the exhaust input tube with this extreme high temp exhaust paint ?? I definitely like the idea of having the guide tube slip up inside the manifold for both pipe alignment and also for gasket alignment and longevity. Chrysler thought it was necessary and Walter was wat smarter than me But if it's gonna eat away at the female opening of my exhaust manifold, I need to try and find another way to mate this up. Thoughts I've had in regards to trying to keep these metals separated are as follows: 1: Eliminate the section of tube that inserts into the manifold and cut the pipe off flush with the top of the flange (maybe only leave a 32nd or so of pipe above the flange, just enough for the exhaust manifold gasket to center on),...and depend on the 2ea exhaust manifold bolts to hold the exhaust centered and in place. This would eliminate the ss of the exhaust from touching the cast iron manifold, due to the manifold gasket seperating the two....my exhaust bolts would be the only steel touching both surfaces,....and easy enough to replace when necessary. But - you'll see that the 2ea bolt holes in the new ss flange are both slotted rather than spot on round holes. In my mind spot on round holes might do a better job in keeping the exhaust in place, and I suppose these slots could be welded up and re-drilled in effort of achieving that. Maybe un-necessary, don't know - I do not have the experience, maybe someone out there can share back with me on this ? 2: I had thought about not using the oem style flange gasket and trying to use a donut gasket, ( if I could find one the correct size) it would keep the metals separated and the donut gasket would keep the setup centered in place, but - I can also see where I would be restricting the size of the exhaust pipe down as the donut gasket would need to have a smaller ID to stay in position and seal... There's lots of talent and experience here on the forum,i truly appreciate those of you whom are willing to, and whom have, shared it with me. Your thoughts ? Thanks again, Steve
  22. found this over on the HAMB web site: "So, if you double the voltage, the amperage will be halved for the same total power.When you're dealing with DC power, you would want a breaker with a voltage rating at least equal to, or higher than, the voltage of your system. If you find breakers rated for 12V, or 24V, either of them should be fine for your 6V system. However, a 6V rated breaker could give you problems if you used it in a 12V system."
  23. Thanks plymouthy, yes Sir, I see where the formula for watts is (amps x volts = watts),...so , 6v x 35 amps = 210 watts, and 12v x 20 amps = 240 watts. 6v systems run higher amperage than 12v systems, so they utilize heavier gauge wiring. Seems like the same would apply for the switch contacts handling the amperage as well. But according to the rating of this switch, the opposite is actually true... I apologize for being short a few amps/watts myself upstairs, but this correlation is throwing me a curve. I'm sure it's correct or I know you'd have pointed it out, so I'll start reading to find the answer to get this straight in my head. Steve..
  24. Found this toggle switch on the internet. Says it's rated for 35Amps 6volt or 20Amps 12volt. I was under the false impression I guess, that amps we're amps, and a switch wouldn't know the difference between 12v or 6v. The switch is made by Pollak, and I spoke with their tech support individual to confirm if this was a misprint, and he didn't hesitate for a minute to say that the rating was accurate, and that this was one of their most popular toggle switches. I tried surfing the internet to possible find any info regarding switch ratings and really didn't come up with much, other than folks recommending going by the mfg specs. I did find some good info on the difference in ratings for switches that are AC (alternating current) rated,and DC (direct current) rated...and the fact that how a switch used for DC power must be heavier built and has a tougher life due to the basic difference in the way current flows between AC and DC...Never had thought about that before, but often a switch can be flipped on an AC circuit, and experience almost zero arc, due to the current alternating between + and -, course this never happens with DC... I also tried attaching the mfg's spec sheet to this post, which also shows the switch to be rated for 35 amps at 6V, and 20 amps at 12V. QUESTION: Does this heavier amp rating for 6v sound correct and make sense to you electrical wizards out there ? thanks again, Steve 33-300_d.tif
  25. Hello Bob, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures for me,...….I have the exact same orange parts book who show here (man I love that parts manual. It has been an incredible asset in searching for parts and pieces,....I treat it like gold :), I've also got the exact same motors repair manual, and I've got the same Plymouth ( red, white & gray) service manual you show. Only one I don't have that you show is the two tone red Plymouth service manual you show, and mention that it is the next best book in your opinion.....Is that manual where the diagrams you attached in this post showing the instrument cluster detail, came from ? Thanks for your help Steve
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