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Everything posted by 3046moparcoupe

  1. Got all the hinges off the Club Coupe without stripping anything,...not much if any paint left on the hinges anywhere (lots of rust inside and out). Oddly enough, the drivers door didn't seem to have much if any sag, but the passenger side had some. from memory you could see the door raise probably a 1/4" when it was shut and hit the striker. When I grabbed these hinges to feel for play, 3 of them felt tighter than I had expected, but you could feel just a slight bit of movement,...(something like what I would guess to be maybe between a 64th and a 32nd or so, not very much,....but the 4th hinge (passenger side bottom hinge) had what felt like at least twice or triple that amount of play in it, you could see it moving... A little penetrating oil soaking, and a hammer/ punch / and a deep socket as a backup removed the 1st three hinge pins with just a few medium raps with a small hammer....but this 4th hinge pin (the one that was so sloppy) isn't giving it up....I've got it to move a bit,....but I am a little hesitant about hitting the assy very hard with a hammer...you can tell the pins is free on both ends (where it anchors into the hinge frame, but it's froze up in the middle section (where it slides through the hinge strap itself) - yuck not good,....my mind is telling me this one is definitely gonna have to have more done to it than just possible adding a new pin,..with it turning on both ends like that, it would look to me like it's gonna have to be oversized to be saved and made to work...?? Any thoughts, experience with this ? So just as I've learned with rusted frozen bolts, I'd like to use some heat to try and break that rust bond up,....I've just read on the HAMB where it seems to be fairly common practice to use a heat wrench (Torch) in getting these things out....Just thought I'd ask about putting heat on this hinge here on the forum, don't wanna make a mistake,..I'm thinking anything to do with these hinges is pretty much a one shot thing, better get it right the 1st time...?? if you guys here on the forum confirm that using heat on a hinge is OK, my 1st run at it is gonna be more like using warm water on it, in comparison to what you guys normally do. I don't have a real torch rig yet with a nice rose bud tip,...so my 1st run at it would be with a small hand held torch,.....not a fraction as good - but I have found that if you just stay the course, eventually it will heat up to almost a hint of reddish,...anyway - I figure it can't hurt to try,....that is - if Heat on a hinge is OK ???? My book says that the hinge pins for these 46-48 Plymouths were originally 1/4" diameter, I guess someone has already drilled these and oversized,..mine are around the .341-.343 diameter, so I'm thinking they are 11/32 diameter pins,....anyone out there know for sure, if the original pins were 1/4 dia or 11/32 dia. ?? These pins I got out all measure right at 2 - 1/16th inch from under the head to the tip of the pin, 2 - 3/16th " overall....there's not anything out there I can find that's 11/32nd's dia and that short, course I know people cut them off to the size you need, butt these really don't look like they were cut...if they were cut by hand - they did a nice matching job on all of them...I looked through Dorman's complete listing of hinge pins today and found a couple of long ones that might work for me, one pin had a diameter of .350 and the other was .352.... This is really gonna be a learning experience, you guys you've been there and done it, I'd sure appreciate a word of advice from your corner. many thanks - AGAIN Steve
  2. heater defrost vent knozzel mtg question

    Some weeks back, a forum member was good enough to reply in regards to one of my previous posts about avoiding dash rattles,...I remembered that he had said he chased a dash rattle for some time that ended up being a defrost vent nozzle, and he mentioned that it was hard to get to....so I messaged him about this question of whether the vent nozzels screwed in from up top or down below....he replied back today and said that his were screwed in from underneath the dash pointing upwards - just as I had found mine when I took it apart... Always more than one way to skin a cat, and I'm not trying to make something out of nothing here, (although I seem to be pretty good at it sometimes ..... In all honesty - I could see advantages and dis-advantages to either way,..... 1) : screwing in from the bottom - you give yourself additional clearance in regards to the screw itself (eliminating the presence of the screw head) and the closest mounting ear of the dash itself (which is really close - like so close I believe your average screw head would hit the edge of it, at least when I measure mine it looks that way),...but - if the screw ever does work itself loose - much harder to get to,...... 2): screw in from the top,....always really easy to get to if you need to tighten it, but you'd have to work the mtg ears of each vent nozzle over and up through the vent opening, if ou were to use a sheet metal screw like I found had been used previously (I can see all my new paint on the vents scratched to crap ),...then you'd have to contend with your screw head rubbing or interfering with the dash mtg ear....also it was kinda hard to see, but raising the vent that additional height to allow the mtg ears to ride on top of the dash, might have caused the vent nozzels themselves to rub underneath, and so on,....so it begins to mushroom into using a screw with a small head and a lock washer and nut, thereby allowing the vent to remain butted up against the bottom side of the dash....ya da ya da yada,..... With this forum member also finding a long sheet metal screw inserted in from underneath the dash pointing upwards, I'm not alone on this, and this method should help insure that the close mtg ear on my dash won't be trying to ride up in the heads of these vent screws. Now, let's see if I can stay clear of those sharp screw threads, when I fit that newly painted dash into place...!!!! Thank you Forum Steve
  3. Saw a really good picture Young Ed had posted on here back from Dec of 2008 of the dash on his P15....just about everything was in place but the garnish molding was still off. When I saw the picture I was sure it would show me what I needed to know, but I just couldn't quite tell for sure....as the picture was taken straight on facing the dash.. I just re-attached my defrost vent brkts/bezzels.knozzels - back to the car,...and I installed them exactly the way they came out per the notes and sketches I made,....I don't remember anything looking odd when I got the car, as the garnish molding sorta covers everything up around that top edge of the dash...but when I put it back together today - the shiny threaded ends of those sheet metal type screws, pointing straight up and staring me in the face,...got me to second guessing whether I was actually putting these back in correctly... Both of these defrost vent pieces were attached to the cowl, from underneath,....with the screws inserted from below the cowl and threaded into their respective holes from below. So the 2ea mtg ears on each of the defrost vent brkts/bezels/knozzels are pushed up against the underneath side of the cowl, then the screws are also inserted from below, and threaded up through the bezel, and through the cowl...leaving the screw threads exposed up top, until the garnish molding goes on...?? I was sitting watching TV this evening and it dawned on me, obviously the defrost vent brkts/bezels,...have to go in from underneath the dash,...but it might be possible to feed the mtg ears of each vent through the slot in the cowl, up and over one and a time,..then the screws could go in from the top side of the cowl, leaving the screw heads exposed from up top, rather than the screw threads being exposed from up top, the way mine was and the way I currently have it... Hopefully this makes sense,....if any P15 forum members remember, or if your garnish molding is still possible off, don't know if a peek through the windshield down through the slots in the garnish moldings would allow a person to see or not,....it would be nice to get these installed back correctly.. Thanks again for all the help you've sent my way so far... Steve
  4. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 tranny bearings

    Glad to post, definitely want to help back any way I can - as I've received so much help here on the forum, stayed up most of last night reading about this company,....they have an A+ BBB rating, but I've also discovered that as of late the Better Business Bureau has been charged with given folks a minimum of an A- rating for a $425.00 fee they call a club fee (no matter what or how many complaints they have),....when I looked at their reviews on the BBB, it was based off of just a small handful of reviews, (something like 8 positive, 3 neg, and 1 neutral),...I also noticed that a bunch of the positives were dated on the very same day,..(which seemed a little suspicious to me),...after ordering I also discovered that they sell on ebay,...99.3 satisfaction rating there, but I don't think I'd buy my bearings off of Ebay,....the more I've read, it sounds like these guys at locate bearings may be buying their bearings from anywhere, or anybody,...so if there's ac chance your getting a bearing that's been dropped, a second, etc....I sure don't want it...... I point blank asked the fella, are they New,..answer (yes), you are just cutting out the middle man,.....are they usa made , (yes), .. and then when I read that MRC was now a product of SKF, I ordered them.... One thing about the few complaints I did see on the reviews is that they were consistent, company sent the wrong bearing - very poor communication, delay in getting refund, and in final was charged a 20% restock fee even though it was their fault,......?? Locate Ball bearings shows to be in California and Ohio,....I found where the Ohio branch showed annual earning of $7 million, that's quite a few bearings, I believe I read 3-4 really bad reviews,....don't order from this company - they are crooks, etc....same thing on ebay,..1779 positive, 8 neutral, 13 negative.... I'm usually not one of the lucky ones All responses encouraged and welcome....actually very much encouraged....:) Steve
  5. Wanted to share this with the forum. I just placed the order so we shall see if it turns out as good as I'm hoping for. The bearings in my 3 speed manual tranny were as follows: pp# MRC207 SFG (main pinion drive bearing shielded one side),##note##thxs to DB4YA I knew the shielding on one side was important and has to be there. pp#MRC207 S (main shaft front bearing) pp#MRC206 S (main shaft rear bearing) My understanding is that the main pinion drive bearing is typically the one that will go bad 1st, and sure enough when I checked these (as instructed by PlymouthyAdams) it was the one of the three that was noisy. Wasn't finding much on the MRC part number, however did find where it had been previously discussed here on the forum once before, and DB4Ya had helped another member cross the original Mopar part number (619167), over to a Federal Mogul p# of 1207SL....I thinking like other company's and in respect to the economy, they can sell off/ merge/ etc...seems like business as usual these days, anyway - the best luck I was having on the 1207SL part number was under Timken. The bearing looked correct by description, so I'm thinking Federal Mogul and Timken may all be the same now,.. lastly here, I'm a newbie, that's learning,..but even I can understand the importance of quality in respect to bearings,...and Timken is a name I've seen since I was young..however today when I discovered that MRC is a division of SKF,and that they were USA made, I purchased a full replacement set (all 3 bearings) MRC207SFG, MRC207S and MRC206S, for a total of $42.00 + $13.00 (4 day shipping) = $55.00 to my door from locate ballbearings.com. According to the Fella I spoke with (Mark Hoffman, see the info below), by ordering through him, I cut out the middleman....he told me he stocked and sold quite a few of the bearings I purchased, that he recognized the numbers, etc...course, only he and the man upstairs know if that's actually true or not. Typically I've learned, " if it seems to good to be true, it probably is - too good to be true ", so I was/still am a bit skeptical, but I needed to make a decision and pulled the trigger and ordered from them....so well see, I suppose. Just wanted to share this info with the group, as the prices I was getting on a Timken 1207SL bearing were ranging from around $70 + shipping and upwards towards a $ Benjamin. I'll follow up with this, once they are received, etc.. Mark HoffmanLocate Ball Bearingswww.locateballbearings.commark@locateballbearings.com75090 St. Charles Place, Suite BPalm Desert CA 92211 Steve
  6. heater defrost vent knozzel mtg question

    Dr thanks for your reply back,....not trying to make something out of nothing here,....but mounting them the way you are seeing yours would raise the vent slightly (not much but a smidge), and it would definitely keep those screw threads away from your molding/piping/and dash edge....sorta crazy why someone would do it the other way around, like I found mine....I just say that because it would seem the more difficult way to mount them, (as the screws are a bit harder to get started from underneath, especially one of them which was partially obstructed by the 1 3/4 heater duct opening....if your screws are entering from the top, then the mtg ears of the defrost vents themselves have to be worked up and over the opening in the cowl, as the screw holes in the vents themselves are oversized. The screw only tightens down into the smaller hole below in the cowl metal itself... thank you...any other p15 owners out there with similar or different observations please respond as well..... thanks again, much'o Steve
  7. Reverse Idler Gear PP# Cross Reference Info needed

  8. Trying to confirm if a Republic 15 tooth Gear, part #K207-8A, is a good interchange number for a Mopar 952244 15 tooth Reverse idler Gear. My understanding is that the aftermarket Borg Warner version of the 952244 gear is Borg Warner part # WT243-10. (If that helps in any way). I've tried different search engines and nothing's coming up for the K2078A part number. hoping maybe someone here on the forum who's been doing this since dirt was first invented might have some old cross reference books. Many thanks Steve Gentry
  9. Reverse Idler Gear PP# Cross Reference Info needed

    Wanted to share this with folks. I just purchased a new 1st /rev slider gear off ebay from a seller, 100% satisfaction rating, he offers a return policy, his seller name is jrvintagegears. The gear I received is amazingly clean and truly looks to have never been run. In comparison to what folks are asking for this stuff, ( especially in respect to the quality ), he also seems reasonable on his prices....this gear was $69 Along with posting here on the forum, I also messaged him (Jim) asking if he had any interchange documentation for the Republic gear, due to a previous conversation we had about the Borg Warner gear I purchased, and he had been willing and offered to fax me interchange info on the borg Warner WT243-12 interchanging with a Mopar 853886. He answered me back today as follows: Hi ---- I checked my republic interchange book WT243-10 -- K207-8A ---952244 -- all part numbers are the correct same gear ----- JIM I thanked Jim and messaged him back, that if possible - I would appreciate having a copy of the info he found regarding these gears all interchanging....I'll let folks know if he is able to follow through with the fax... So far, I would highly recommend jrvintagegears on ebay, from me experience, fast excellent communication,..Jim seems to value and appreciate his customers and doesn't try to sell inferior stuff. hopefully I'll possible have a copy of this info early this next week and I'll share it here on the forum. Steve
  10. P15 Clutch release fork lever spring 626220

    Thank you Don and Dpollo, I'd say that's about as much help as a person could ask for...I appreciate it. Steve
  11. Question please for you P15 members out there. My project car didn't have the correct clutch return fork spring setup when we got it. It had been southern engineered to work. It was missing the little pointed (arrow head looking on both ends) bracket that attaches to the bell housing, ( that the return spring anchors to ), and seems like they had a spring connected over to one of the pins on the torque shaft (If I remember correctly). Since then, a forum member sent me a tracing of the anchor brkt, which has been made and attached to the car. So know I was trying to identify and locate a Clutch return Spring. The book calls for a part # 626220, and the exploded diagram I have in my parts book shows the pic you see attached below. (A spring that looks to have a long straight hook end that reaches out on one side where it connects to the anchor brkt)... I've also found a picture of what is supposed to be an original mopar 626220 spring, which is also attached to the post. as you can see this spring doesn't have the long reaching straight section on one side, just looks more like a conventional spring, (looks much like the spring on the overcenter spring assy used on these cars). When I physically eyeball the distance from the clutch return fork, to the anchor point on the anchor brkt, it only looks to be about 6 inches or so, so I'm thinking I must be reading something into the parts book drawing that is not actually true. If any of you P15 owners could help identify, confirm what an actual 626220 Clutch return fork spring looks like, it would help. Thanks again Steve
  12. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    Boy do I understand dPollo, I am connected at the waist with this old car, heck I fell in love with it the minute I saw it and now after pouring 3 1/2 yrs into it,..it's crazy how big a priority it is with me,...anyone that's worked and sacrificed on one for many years, like so many here on this forum - understand. My biggest problem, is that with my limited experience in regards to being a " real problem solving and fixing mech-anic ", I over analyze - because I don't have that experience to draw from....and it gripes me to no end when I realize I failed, and screwed something up that didn't have to happen,...I guess on one hand "that's life" and a part of learning,...but I can sure wear folks out, in trying to learn. Plymouthy has been so good and patient to hang in there with me the way he has...much respect his way for sure,... Like right now, I'm trying to figure out how Ole "Dutch" in the Chrysler Master Tech videos, gets those main shaft bearings off the main shaft, to clean them - then lightly oil them, then hold them up to his ear and spin them to check them to see if there bad or not and need to be replaced ? The video doesn't show him removing them. I know just enough to know that you remove a bearing off a shaft by the bearings inner race, and you remove a bearing out of a case by the bearings outer race,..and that way you don't harm the bearing...with the spacer that's on the main shaft on this old tranny, you can't see but the very slightest outside edge of the inner race, maybe a 32nd or so of it max,..so I guess ole "Dutch" must be tapping the bearings off using a small drift on that little 32nd" of exposed inner race,..I've never dis-assembled one before so I don't know how much of an interference fit is at play here,..but one thing I have learned is to make myself slow down and don't start hitting on things until your sure...:) Both these bearings on my main shaft, sound good when I spin them, very quiet and smooth,..but it would be nice to be able to remove them clean them up off the shaft, them remove the spacer and speedo gear, and clean out any gunk/metal/etc.. that might be behind that spacer. Enough of the negative :), on the positive side of things, I'm so far ahead of where I was 5 yrs ago., when I joined the forum,...A heartfelt thank you to all you have spent time and effort in helping me learn..especially with the little things (when and where you have room to fudge a little and when you don't) ,..that are so important on this old, hard to find, and replace stuff/parts,... Steve
  13. My 1st time to ever be inside any transmission. (manual or automatic), besides doing fluid/filter changes.. I've attached some pics to try and show some of the things that were obvious upon tear down, even to the untrained eye like mine. Like many I suppose that have sat for years without proper maintenance, this transmission shows signs of moisture exposure. I can see it on some of the gear teeth (2nd gear especially), on one of the shift rails, and a couple of spots on the mainshaft. Looks very similar to the black etching I've seen in the past on spindles when I've greased wheel bearings, on something that's been ignored. You can see this black corrosion etching, but you can't feel it with your fingernail,...so I'm wondering if I can just polish it away and re-use the parts ?? Most gear teeth edges look sharp, (I did see one small gouge in the edge of a tooth on 2nd gear, it's visible in the attached pic),...the leading and trailing edges of the teeth on 1st gear caught my eye with some random gouge spots and a uniform pattern of lines that looked so uniform and consistent I am guessing them not to be wear or damage related, but again that just a swag on my part Reverse idler gear has some rough edges on some of the teeth...again, most of the attached pictures came out good enough and close enough that you can see what I'm talking about. Any help from you Old tranny pros., would be valued like GOLD on this end. I'd expect that gears would be hard and iffy to find, so I'll massage on any of these parts for as long as required, in effort of getting this back together in a way that's practical and driveable. (I've seen folks on TV, use a whit stone to smooth out spots on the edges of gear teeth, when a replacement gear was just not available, but of course, I'm talking about T.V. ??,...one of the best places to pick up accurate info, right ? !! Reason for teardown : Bought the car 3 yrs ago, test drove it under 30 mph around the block a few times, all shifting was good and smooth as any 3 speed I've ever driven (except for 3rd gear), it flat didn't want to go int 3rd and ground like crazy when you tried it.....(older fella I bought the car from was convinced in showing me that it would go into 3rd gear, and after a bunch of grinding he finally did get it to go,...didn't really sit well with me, but I hadn't purchased the car yet,...later course, I figured even with the xmn issues, the car seemed like as good of a price for a coupe as complete and clean as this, so obviously it bacame mine :).. Over the past few years - here on the forum, two things I did pick up in regards to this were 1: badly deteriorated rear motor mounts can cause this shifting problem, and 2: use of gear oil other than GL-1 can cause wear that will contribute to xmn failure),....YES, there was just about nothing left of the rear motor mounts, which have now been replaced, and YES, when I drained the gear oil out, I did see a lot of very small brass/gold-ish metal particles in the gear oil...(once you take the xmn apart you see that the stop rings and the end play washers are the only two parts that would provide for this brass particle wear due to the later GL series oils, not being compatiable. I have learned to look at the grooves on the inside surface of your stop rings, and both my stop rings look good in that respect with deep grooves still in place, therefore I'm suspecting the end play washers to be the main culprits for the gold metal I could see in the old oil. Attached pics are as follows: 1) 2nd speed gear corrosion and gouge spot , 2) main shaft corrosion spot - one of a couple), 3) shift rail - not very clear but corrosion spot like on main shaft, 4) tranny parts layed out, 5) 1st gear showing lines and shiny wear on teeth edges, 6) reverse idler gear - has quite a few gouges in the edge of the teeth unfortunately doesn't show up very well in the pic.
  14. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    Also for you guys out there like me that are getting a late start at this and trying your best to learn. I wanna thank forum member "rekbender", who told me about going to your local hardware store (like Lowes or Home Depot) and picking up a piece of 3/4" oak dowel to use as the arbor tool to hold the needle bearings, spacer, and washers in place, on the cluster gear assembly, when going back together with the tranny.. I've watched the videos out there on the Internet that show folks using grease to hold the needle bearings in place while you insert the shaft from the rear of the tranny, like on the Saginaw transmissions, and they were able to do it without an arbor, but I don't believe that tranny had the spacer in between the needle bearings as well, I believe it would be about next to impossible to hold everything still enough, and in place long enough to pull this off, without using the arbor tool. Course the Master tech video's also show old "Dutch: using the arbor tool as well, those videos are awesome, check em out if you haven't yet found them, they will help you. Anyway - I bought a piece of 3/4" oak dowell and also they had another 3/4" dowell there as well, made out of another grade of wood, ( I forget what type wood it was),it was cheaper, but it actually seemed like it didn't want to lint off little tiny fragments onto your hand, quite as much as the oak dowell was doing, there in the store, when I would run my hand up and down the dowell..I don't know how bad that would be, but I'm thinking I don't need any wood particals in there, no matter how fine they might be. My thought was to cut the dowel to length, then scotch brite over it a bit, maybe even use a brush and some cleaning agent - to try and knock off any wood lint, then maybe coat it with a bit of grease..?? Again, please anyone out there with the experience and knowledge - willing to share and help us starting out, please JUMP IN and REPLY, your input is needed and greatly appreciated.... Steve
  15. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    Making progress on the 3 speed manual transmission...initially from what I could see (with my limited experience and knowledge), I could tell that the reverse idler gear teeth were pretty chewed on with a couple of little chunks actually missing from a few teeth, also I could see and feel a ridge on the short idler shaft, so I began my search for a new gear and shaft. Found a shaft on flea-bay from a seller with a strong rating that looked good in the pics, so I bought it, see pic #1 below (item in transit for delivery next week),..speaking with a fella who has a new reverse idler gear 15 teeth, new , still in cosmoline , waiting on how much to ship it -hopefully I have dubs on it, we've spoken on the phone and email back and forth, should know by tomorrow... Meanwhile, while scouring over the internet (with most results coming back from flea-bay), I ran the other part numbers for 1st, 2nd, and the cluster gear assy under the oem numbers (1st 853886, 2nd 852456, and Cluster gear 697823), in the process I discovered the Borg Warner matching Interchange numbers of (1st WT243-12, 2nd WT243-11A, and Cluster gear WT243-8A)...after 2-3 days of computer red eye round the clock stare and compare, and trying to research these Borg Warner part numbers as being good replacements..I ended up finding a replacement 1st slider gear, 2nd gear, and Cluster gear assembly..see pics #2, 3 and 4 attached to this post...(all these items are also in transit for delivery next week due to the holidays), but hopefully they will prove to be as clean as the pics..all came from sellers with 99-100% ratings, and all offered a refund policy. ###note###there's some good looking parts out there on flea-bay, but may of those sellers are asking prices I am not willing to spend at this time if at all possible,...but fortunately as luck may have shined on me (we'll see when the parts arrive), according to the prices I saw listed on average for these old gears, and depending on what you could tell about there varying condition,..I'm encouraged that I may have gotten some pretty reasonable deals....with 2nd gear being the absolute best home run at $16.00 delivered,...again, I hope to know more when it all arrives... Thanks to the old Chrysler Master Tech video's, I was made aware of the replaceable grommets for the bolts that attach the pinion retainer to the front of the transmission case..,and late last night, again on flea-bay I stumbled across a listing for a 3 pack of oem grommets. The listing stated that the grommets were still flexible and pliable, kinda hard for me to imagine that they could still be useable, but for $10 delivered, I went ahead and bit like a large mouth bass defending her nest in the spring see pic #5 below, (item should also arrive next week). Main reason for going ahead and replacing the gears, (since I found them at affordable prices), was due to the shiny sides of many of my gear teeth having rusted pits in them,...on almost every gear, you can see where it's only a portion of the teeth (I'm thinking the teeth that were exposed above the oil level that sat, unturned for who knows how many years, just a guess), anyway - I rubbed on them with a scotch brite and I can get the black to disappear, but you can feel the pits with the end of a pic, small screw driver blade, etc...with my limited knowledge, I don't know how bad these really we're, (bad enough to make noise now, bad enough to turn into noise in the future, sorta figured they would eventually turn into a problem), .. anyone out there, who'd like to contribute to my education regarding these pits on the side of the teeth, please don't hesitate,..if I spent money I didn't need to, etc..that's OK, my goal more than anything, is to do the best job I can for the old car, and to LEARN...mainly that's what this is all about - pride in building something with your own hands and learning.. Today with the help of some forum members (thanks so much guys), I got the bearing off the main pinion shaft. Reason for removing it, when I turned it, no clicking or individual bad spots, but I could hear and feel a constant drag sound, the remaining 2 bearing on the main shaft don't sound that way, they are basically smooth and completely quiet when you turn them. Per the book, that pinion bearing is a 619167, and thanks to forum member "Dodgeb4ya" who gave me some pointers and in helping someone in the past had posted the Interchange part number for that mopar bearing, the new number is 1207SL,....multiple places show to have it, like rockauto, summit racing, etc..the sellers were all listing it as a Timken bearing, which I certainly recognize from past experience around wheel bearings, and it was always really good stuff), I hope that still applies as I wonder if Timken is still USA made, or something coming from China now. Anybody out there know ?? There was also a cross reference for SKF, but most of my finding on the internet were showing folks to prefer Timken over SKF as they were saying all SKF is coming from mexico now ?? Lastly, here, after removing the pinion bearing from the pinion shaft, I see the same delima on the teeth of the pinion shaft, a good 1/2 dozen of the teeth sides are pitted up. Same as the other gear teeth, I can clean it up with a scotch brite but they are easy to see and easy to feel with a steel point,...I may now need to try and locate a replacement pinion shaft, as I'm wondering if the pitted teeth on this one, would damage the new teeth on the new Cluster gear I purchased ?? anybody ?? all input from you guys with the experience and knowledge is treated like GOLD, on this end, and appreciated. Always need to send out a thank you to Plymouthy Adams, and this time is no exception, he is awesome to work with me and help out... Steve
  16. Thanks Guys & Best Wishes for the New Year

    Happy New Year AndyD, and many thanks for the help you graciously sent my way this past year. Steve
  17. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    Thanks James, I appreciate the input,....yep - last night I was sitting studying the exploded diagram of this tranny, and I noticed the part I believe your speaking of. In the book it's called the gear shift rail interlock pin, and it's held in by a small plug,...I didn't remember removing it, and it wasn't laying in my parts pile, so another look at the tranny case, and I found the small plug and I could see one round end of the pin still up inside it's journal....can you tell me the best way to pop out the little plug ? is it by chance like the procedure used to pop out the larger 3/4" shift rail plug, where you use a drift and the shift rail itself, and drive the plug out from the inside of the case, carefully tapping on the detent cavity of the shift rail ? My 1st thought last night was that maybe I could retrieve the pin with a magnet and just leave the plug in place, but I haven't gone back and looked at it again,..not gonna try anything until I know for sure,..not much of one for wanting to bang on things,..:) these parts are too hard to find....can't yet see how you could get that plug out from the inside without drilling it, then pulling it, which would destroy it...?? maybe it's a replace every time type item ?? Steve
  18. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    Thanks webmaster, you are so correct,.....when I removed the counter shaft, both the bronze washer and the steel washers were laying in the housing, so I had no way of knowing for sure which way they went back in...however about a year or so ago, I found a couple of large original Chrysler dealership posters for sale on line, on ebay....and I bought them, had them laminated and they are hanging on my garage wall...they show a lot of great information, regarding end play measurements, and show the bronze thrust washer as going in the outside most position on the shaft, up against the housing...this also matches the info I'm finding in my 46 P15 oem parts manual, it also says bronze washer to the outside of the steel washer, this is repeated on both ends of the countershaft... I did make a mistake upon dis assembly that really got my goat. because I knew not to do it, and was totally taken by surprise when it happened. When I removed the smaller snap ring from the end of the main shaft, I then reached up to slide the clutch sleeve/gear assy off the end of the shaft,...and immediately I found myself holding the clutch sleeve by itself,...couldn't believe it, cause I had already picked up that this assy should never be separated, but left in its original matching mated working married position,....well - too late,....so I slipped it back together,...and then realized that I had to gentle tap the 2nd gear and clutch sleeve, stop ring entire assy off the main shaft with a soft rubber mallet...yep - I felt like a ding dong, or actually something a bit worse that shouldn't be typed in here However, I do have in my possession 2ea additional clutch sleeve assemblies I picked up over the past few years,...one looks super clean and you can see a scribe mark across it, the other looks clean put it has some gouge marks where the forks ride, so I don't know about that one....anyway - I purchased both of them off of ebay from sellers with good ratings, but still that's no guarantee,...I also picked up a couple of stop rings that look to be new and un-used.... Lastly, I have also seen on video and read where folks have also accidentially separated these sleeves and all stated that they never had a problem upon re-assembly,...still - maybe I'll also get some good input here on the forum regarding this,...really chapped my backside when it happed, again as I knew it needed to stay together,...even though I believe it has seen more than its share of abuse...
  19. rubber cowl lacing example pics / anybody used this

    I appreciate all the great reply's back from folks - this is a great forum, here's a little additional input I've also picked up since I made the original post: regarding the first two cowl lacing products I initially was asking about, 1: the 1st cowl lacing image which has the groove in the middle and is solid rubber on each side - Mac's replied back and said the kit comes in 8' length, and the rubber itself is .598" W (about 5/8" wide) and .176" H (about 3/16" thick),......this is a bit narrower than the stock fiber type replacement lacing cord I have which is 3/4" wide but is about spot on the same in height)...this kit also comes with 30ea #6 x 3/8 black screws. 2: the 2nd cowl lacing image which also has the groove in the middle and has hollow tube rubber on each side - I contacted the Oklahoma company via telephone and an employee was good enough to go grab one and physically measure it for me, he gave me the following dimensions: 3/4" wide (a match for the oem replacement fiber type lacing) and 3/8" thick ?? (I questioned him on the thickness, saying that's almost 1/2" thick, are you sure (thinking he was confusing 3/16" with 3/8" and he confirmed back - no it's 3/8" thick), at that point I asked if he could collapse it with his fingers and measure it collapsed down, he said it was pretty firm stuff and didn't collapse down a lot when he compressed it,.....so if that's true, this lacing cord would be way too thick to use for a replacement on a P15,..... reply back on second type of lacing cord doesn't seem to make sense as both types are listed for the same application "47 Ford pickup truck"...?? !! I can't help but think there is a form of human error happening here in this reply... Seems like there's always some little bit of friction in the equation when trying to resolve something - I'm reminded of the old saying: "Nuts and bolts, nuts and bolts, we've been screwed,...:) Oh well, I suppose if we're too easy , it wouldn't be any fun... Steve
  20. At present I've got a roll of the black fabric style cowl lacing that I believe I got from AB a year or so back, the type that has the groove down the center for your attaching screws, rivets, etc...looks quite a bit like the original stuff,....anyway - I've read on here where it is more aggressive in rubbing the paint off the underneath side of your hood....and just feeling the stuff I can see where that would make sense as it's somewhat coarse and has that fabric grain structure to it...at present there are 2ea rubber cowl lacing kits available on ebay...I just sent one of the ebay seller's "Mac's" a message asking for dimensions (width/length, height) and also since it's made out of solid rubber, I also asked about the density of the rubber itself, noting that I didn't believe the super dense rubber (like stuff that Steele sells) would be the route I wanted to go, since this stuff doesn't really get exposed to UV, and I don't want it to cause me issues being so proud that the hood doesn't want to align or lay down properly....the second seller is out of Oklahoma City, something like Classic Industry's, anyway - I will call them tomorrow and get dimensions, but this lacing is designed more like the original fabric stuff I have in hand, however both raised sides of the lacing are hollow....I'm thinking that might work well, in regards to both things: 1: doing the least damage to the under hood paint as possible, and 2: allowing the lacing to seal yet not interfere with the hood to cowl alignment...... see 2ea pics attached. anyone out there have any experience with either of these rubber cowl vent lacing products, on a P15 ? Thanks again Steve
  21. rubber cowl lacing example pics / anybody used this

    Thxs Dr. great response back, I appreciate it.... Your reply about having to replace and taking some paint with it does make sense to me, (sometimes you can't sweat every detail ) and if the weatherstrip was good enough quality to last a number of years.....(In other words - great glue that holds well , but weatherstrip that tears or dis-integrates in a few years would be a head-ache)...everyone's idea of what works well is gonna be different,...and have seen new paint that you couldn't poll off with Gorilla Duct tape, and new paint that you could pull of with light tack masking tape,..so there are so many variables involved,....part of my questioning allows me to determine what the person's mindset is in regards to variables like this...again I appreciate the recommendation, it gives me an option, bottom line - I probably need to get a piece of the stuff and test it out to see if it's gonna work for me...
  22. rubber cowl lacing example pics / anybody used this

    Greg13, Me like'e..:) thanks, I'll check it out...""have you used the double bead on anything, did it stick well and stay in place ? "
  23. rubber cowl lacing example pics / anybody used this

    No I'm not concerned with a points scoring restoration, I want what works best in regards to form, fit and function....self adhesive sounds really nice, as long as it holds, (no rivets or screw heads protruding up too high to have to contend with), but then of it sticks to the paint that well - it better be good lasting stuff or what happens when you have to remove it to replace it down the line ? I wonder ?? You got a part number or a part description ? Thanks for your reply ?
  24. 46 P15 Vacuum wiper linkage connection to vacuum motor

    Thanks Wiggo, I appreciate the offer very much, I dont' know if looking at a 41 Dodge would be a surefire comparison or not, but while your in there, it sure couldn't hurt if you 'd take a look and see if the passenger side wiper linkage arm is curved,and the driver side is straight...Steve..