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3046moparcoupe

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3046moparcoupe last won the day on October 24 2017

3046moparcoupe had the most liked content!

About 3046moparcoupe

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hurst
  • Interests
    Music/Guitar and Old Cars / Streetrods
  • My Project Cars
    1930 Plymouth Model-U 3 Window Coupe, and 1946 P15 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    60 yr old OCD / Old Car Disease
  • Occupation
    retiree

Converted

  • Location
    Hurst Tx
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopar, guitars

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  1. This past year I stumbled across a fella who had been mandrel bending large diameter stainless steel tubing here in the metroplex for years making custom exhaust, frames, roll cages, etc. Anyway - the fella said he was done but agreed to use the material he had left over on hand and bend up one more final system for my Plymouth project. I took him the old stock rusted steel exhaust system (before and aft of the muffler), and he bent up a complete new front to rear for me out of 304 stainless steel. Next step was to find a 2" I.D. 304 stainless 2 bolt flange to weld on to the exhaust to connect up to my exhaust manifold. Found one at Summit Racing, made by Vibrant Performance PP#VIB1470S. I'm not there yet, but when the time does come to bolt this new exhaust system to the car, I'll have to make a one shot decision on where to cut it, and how best to bolt up the ss flange of this exhaust system to the oem cast iron exhaust manifold. My concern here, is in regards to the dis-similar metals making contact and GALVANIC CORROSION. I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL INPUT FROM THE FORUM IN RESPECT TO THIS, SO PLEASE ALL INPUT IS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. As you can see in the attached pictures, the front section was bent to allow me to duplicate the way the oem pipe slid up inside the collector end of the exhaust manifold, by locating the flange down some on the vertical straight section of pipe going into the manifold. ( I've physically inserted the ss pipe up inside the exhaust manifold and you couldn't ask for a sweeter, more snug, fit. ) At present the exhaust manifold is painted with rattle can VHT exhaust manifold/header 1300-2000 degree high temp paint, and I do have a thin coat of paint inside the collector opening where the pipe would insert. In theory I suppose the paint should act as a barrier to prevent the stainless and the cast iron from coming into contact, but in the real world - I doub't that I'd bet the farm on that holding true. The manifold was cleaned up nicely when it was painted, and the paint will have had a few years to cure out, so that's a plus I suppose, but just the fact that on the description itself, which reflects a 700 degree variance window on how much heat the paint will handle ? seems odd to me , and kinda hard to believe...I'm just guessing here, but I'd guess that the manifold on this flat head six might run 600-700 degrees hot max ?? Maybe leave the input tube - but also sand off a few thousands off it, and also paint the exhaust input tube with this extreme high temp exhaust paint ?? I definitely like the idea of having the guide tube slip up inside the manifold for both pipe alignment and also for gasket alignment and longevity. Chrysler thought it was necessary and Walter was wat smarter than me But if it's gonna eat away at the female opening of my exhaust manifold, I need to try and find another way to mate this up. Thoughts I've had in regards to trying to keep these metals separated are as follows: 1: Eliminate the section of tube that inserts into the manifold and cut the pipe off flush with the top of the flange (maybe only leave a 32nd or so of pipe above the flange, just enough for the exhaust manifold gasket to center on),...and depend on the 2ea exhaust manifold bolts to hold the exhaust centered and in place. This would eliminate the ss of the exhaust from touching the cast iron manifold, due to the manifold gasket seperating the two....my exhaust bolts would be the only steel touching both surfaces,....and easy enough to replace when necessary. But - you'll see that the 2ea bolt holes in the new ss flange are both slotted rather than spot on round holes. In my mind spot on round holes might do a better job in keeping the exhaust in place, and I suppose these slots could be welded up and re-drilled in effort of achieving that. Maybe un-necessary, don't know - I do not have the experience, maybe someone out there can share back with me on this ? 2: I had thought about not using the oem style flange gasket and trying to use a donut gasket, ( if I could find one the correct size) it would keep the metals separated and the donut gasket would keep the setup centered in place, but - I can also see where I would be restricting the size of the exhaust pipe down as the donut gasket would need to have a smaller ID to stay in position and seal... There's lots of talent and experience here on the forum,i truly appreciate those of you whom are willing to, and whom have, shared it with me. Your thoughts ? Thanks again, Steve
  2. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    found this over on the HAMB web site: "So, if you double the voltage, the amperage will be halved for the same total power.When you're dealing with DC power, you would want a breaker with a voltage rating at least equal to, or higher than, the voltage of your system. If you find breakers rated for 12V, or 24V, either of them should be fine for your 6V system. However, a 6V rated breaker could give you problems if you used it in a 12V system."
  3. 3046moparcoupe

    Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??

    Thanks plymouthy, yes Sir, I see where the formula for watts is (amps x volts = watts),...so , 6v x 35 amps = 210 watts, and 12v x 20 amps = 240 watts. 6v systems run higher amperage than 12v systems, so they utilize heavier gauge wiring. Seems like the same would apply for the switch contacts handling the amperage as well. But according to the rating of this switch, the opposite is actually true... I apologize for being short a few amps/watts myself upstairs, but this correlation is throwing me a curve. I'm sure it's correct or I know you'd have pointed it out, so I'll start reading to find the answer to get this straight in my head. Steve..
  4. Found this toggle switch on the internet. Says it's rated for 35Amps 6volt or 20Amps 12volt. I was under the false impression I guess, that amps we're amps, and a switch wouldn't know the difference between 12v or 6v. The switch is made by Pollak, and I spoke with their tech support individual to confirm if this was a misprint, and he didn't hesitate for a minute to say that the rating was accurate, and that this was one of their most popular toggle switches. I tried surfing the internet to possible find any info regarding switch ratings and really didn't come up with much, other than folks recommending going by the mfg specs. I did find some good info on the difference in ratings for switches that are AC (alternating current) rated,and DC (direct current) rated...and the fact that how a switch used for DC power must be heavier built and has a tougher life due to the basic difference in the way current flows between AC and DC...Never had thought about that before, but often a switch can be flipped on an AC circuit, and experience almost zero arc, due to the current alternating between + and -, course this never happens with DC... I also tried attaching the mfg's spec sheet to this post, which also shows the switch to be rated for 35 amps at 6V, and 20 amps at 12V. QUESTION: Does this heavier amp rating for 6v sound correct and make sense to you electrical wizards out there ? thanks again, Steve 33-300_d.tif
  5. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Hello Bob, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures for me,...….I have the exact same orange parts book who show here (man I love that parts manual. It has been an incredible asset in searching for parts and pieces,....I treat it like gold :), I've also got the exact same motors repair manual, and I've got the same Plymouth ( red, white & gray) service manual you show. Only one I don't have that you show is the two tone red Plymouth service manual you show, and mention that it is the next best book in your opinion.....Is that manual where the diagrams you attached in this post showing the instrument cluster detail, came from ? Thanks for your help Steve
  6. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Many thanks guys, especially Bob's pictures,...I sure would be interested in getting my hands on whatever old Plymouth manual those pictures came from, incredible detail,...seriously I'd like to know so I can be on the lookout through ebay, etc... Yep, that second bulb socket I have (see attached pic #2 to this post), looks like an exact match for what Bob's pics show. I went out and tried it and it snapped in place nice and firm, so I went to splice it onto my new wire and started cut back into the cloth wire to find black corroded copper, cut a little farther, still dark and nasty looking, finally ended up just removing the original cloth wire pigtail from the incorrect socket and using it. Worked like a champ. I stumbled on this yesterday, ( surprised I hadn't noticed it before, as much as I've looked at the P15 wiring diagram in my manual). it shows an extra light bulb wired off the dash light switch labeled as "speedometer light",...so all together it shows : two instrument/gauges light bulbs, one ignition sw. light bulb, a high beam indicator light bulb, and a speedometer light bulb. Unless I'm blind in one eye and can't see out of the other, my speedometer assembly has no hole for a bulb socket in it,....just the two each larger bulb holes on each side of the gauges/speedo assembly, so I've got a total of 3 light bulbs wired off of my dash light switch, (not four as the manual shows). Thank you all again for the tremendous help and support here on the forum. Steve
  7. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Ron, I looked back at my manual - and you are correct, it does show them as being "black"...I was seeing them as a very dark brown,...must be a combination of age and dirt that made them look dark brown to me.,..but absolutely Yes, black is the correct spec for the dash light wiring harness color. Good eye there Thanks for your input, you always add value and I appreciate it.
  8. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 high beam indicator light bulb socket question

    Thank you Andy, Ed and Rob. Pretty amazing the story these old cars can tell as you work your way through their pieces and parts. Ed, your wiring harness pic is especially helpful in that it shows me your socket connector and also something regarding wiring color code. Your harness (just like mine) has a total of 4ea instrument /dash light bulb sockets. Two that are larger for both sides of the instrument cluster, and two that are smaller that light up the key hole and the high beam indicator. Just like yours, my smaller 3 wire socket harness that connects the two large gauge lights and the key hole light are all wired together to a single stakon connector that connects to the dash light switch, using 14 awg brown wire. My smaller socket harness was in perfect condition so I re-used it, so it was impossible for me to get any part of this smaller harness confused. This 14awg brown wire color also matches the color code shown for these cars in the wiring schematics. Per the wiring schematics the 14 awg wire to the high beam indicator light is supposed to be orange. That color also looks to be a match for what you have on your high beam indicator wire and is a match for what I had on my high beam indicator wire shown in the picture I attached to the beginning of this post. An orange wire with a broken blue hash mark line which codes the wire as 14 awg… Pretty interesting that my high beam indicator wire was not cut or spliced anywhere, but had this odd ball bulb socket on it. Seems like it would be difficult for the socket to get damaged, requiring replacement, when the remainder of the sockets are so perfect...and if it was replaced, I guess it would have been easy enough for someone to cut off the crimped contact on the end, replace the socket, and crimp on a new contact.....as Rob stated in the previous post, him recognizing the bulb socket as a Chinese aftermarket sure may be the answer as to how it got there. With this socket being hard to reach, maybe someone broke a finger or two off the original and did this as a replacement. I was beginning to think that maybe the factory just grabbed whatever they had the day the car was coming through the line..:) Anyway - Ed after seeing your picture (thank you again), I have a spare bulb socket that came with an ignition switch assembly that I bought off of Ebay. My original ignition switch was worn and sloppy internally and sometimes the key would try to hang , etc....when I got the replacement ignition switch - they had just cut off all the wires going to the switch rather than undo them, and I also got the bulb socket that lights the key hole. Again brown 14 awg wire on this socket. I've attached a picture of this socket to this reply. From what I can tell in your wiring harness pic you sent, this looks like what you have attached to your high beam indicator light. Would you mind taking a quick look to compare and let me know back ?, and it would also be helpful if you could look on our end to see if your high beam bulb socket and your key hole socket measure the same dimension. From the picture they sure look the same but I suppose if one were slightly different in size I wouldn't be able to tell from just looking at a pic. Kinda stand to reason that there should not be an in-between, or slightly smaller size, as I believe there were just two size bulbs, standard bayonet and mini bayonet.. Thank you all again for the help. Steve
  9. I was fortunate in having the original wiring harness still in place on this car when we started this project. So I carefully removed it one conductor at a time and labeled things. That said, I think I should be on the correct path here, but I would appreciate the confirmation back before I just start trying to make this fit. Almost got the entire under dash wired, and just tried to insert the bulb socket ( I had identified as belonging to the high beam indicator light above the instrument cluster on top of the dash ), and it seems like the diameter of the round bulb socket finger opening is about the same size as the diameter of the high beam barrel sleeve. Doesn't want to readily slide over the barrel sleeve and doesn't want to insert inside the barrel hole like the other dash light bulb sockets. The socket fingers don't look to be out of shape / bent irregularly / etc. ..fairly round and uniform to my eye... it's been 3 years since I removed this harness, so heck if I can remember how this socket came off. My guess is that it does grab from the outside of the barrel tube (slides over if you will rather than inserts into it), and the fact that I've painted the socket receptacle barrel is what's causing the interference. Figured It would be wise to try and confirm with the forum if possible before proceeding with a bit of force on this. Is this the correct high beam indicator light bulb socket, for a P15 ? Does it slide over the fixture barrel sleeve with the fingers grabbing from the outside ? Thank you all again for the continued help, here on the forum. I do appreciate it. You realize as your working to put things back together, how many ground contact surfaces you've painted over...:) I'll have my work cut out for me getting a good ground everywhere it has to be around this dash area...!! Steve
  10. 3046moparcoupe

    heater switch ? for deluxe dual heater setup in P15

    DB4ya, as mentioned in my original post,....yes sir - my heater switch has two resistor coils, each encased inside it's own tubular ceramic shell,.... as previously mentioned, I was thinking it was for multiple speeds,...but now that you have shed light on this,....if there's only a "low" and a "high", why would there be a resistor for the high speed ? there wouldn't be one , would there ? low speed for each motor would use the resistors, then the high speed would run off the 6v direct to each motor - by-passing the resistors completely. Once again, I show my failing mental capacity this getting old thing stinks !! I would think that in a few weeks , when I extend the wiring harness in and under the dash and wire the switch up, that this would have made itself evident in my head, but none the less - I know now whats up, and it's very much appreciated on this end. Yes sir, thank you again DB4ya...I appreciate your efforts to take the time to set me on the straight path, once again.. Steve
  11. When we got our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project it had two of everything (two heater cores), (two blower motor assemblies), etc...the main (larger unit) was connected to the fresh air box on the passenger side and it contains the mechanism/doorway to adjust between heater and defrost...the smaller unit hung off the fresh air box on the drivers side and strictly served as a heater for the interior cab of the car. Over the past few years of learning here on the forum, I've come to know this setup as being the deluxe heater assy for these old mopar cars. When I was taking this all apart, everything looked factory to me,..EXCEPT,...some of the holes in the firewall where the heater core in/out tubes connect through the firewall, looked like they were cut out with a hammer and a chisel, (actually not that bad - but uneven oblong shaped holes with some pretty rough cuts. This made me wonder if an individual had done the upgrade themselves or if possible a small dealership had done it, etc… who knows, only time I suppose....:) All that said, and with things now going back together, here's my brain fart/question for the day in regards to all this. For you guys and/or gals out there who have the dual heater setup. Would not the heater on/off switch also need to be upgraded to power the additional motor ? I'm wondering if I've got the correct heater motor switch for this dual setup. Any way to identify and know for sure ? or was there just a single switch offered that was capable of carrying everything from the budget heater assy up to the deluxe version ? I went through the switch that was in this car, and cleaned up the internal contact surfaces and greased it, however I don't believe there is any kind of identifying part number on the thing. It does have two (2) ceramic cylinder shaped resistors on the switch for low and high I would suppose. Thought it might be wise to run this by you folks with experience, as I definitely don't need any electrical issues like this later on, especially with one of the larger amp draw electrical accessories like the blower motors. Thanks so much for the help. This forum is exceptional. Steve
  12. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    Pretty amazing - the level of help one can get here on the forum. Thanks again to you all who have been so good to help me over the past 4 years.
  13. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    DB4ya, THANK YOU !! This should fix me up...looks like I've got all the parts (the short clevis pin and the small L brkt.) this makes more sense,.. (the push/pull arm from the door itself, one end of the spring, and the small "L" brkt, all slide onto the clevis pin, which is anchored through the bottom hole of the main swivel brkt. and the opposite end of the spring anchors to the upper hole of the main swivel brkt. Then the push rod runs from the small "L" brkt over to the handle and the main dash support beam.) That second picture really shows it all well. You are the goodz. Thanks for taking the time and effort to get these pics to me so quick. Steve
  14. I'm finishing up the last of the install of the fresh air box back into the car (46 P15 Club Coupe). I took the attached two pics a few years back before pulling it all out. These two pics show both ends of the spring associated with the lower rectangular fresh air door, and how it was attached when I took this all apart. Top end of the spring would seem correct as it anchors to a hole in the linkage brkt. The bottom end of the spring was just anchored around the handle push rod. I'm wondering if this is correct ? I don't really see any other available holes, etc..but again, if I'm missing a part - it wouldn't be the first time If anyone can confirm from these pics if this looks correct, or if anyone possible has an oem diagram layout, or can take a pic, etc...it would be greatly appreciated.. many thanks. Steve
  15. Was looking at my new gas tank straps and the short welds down the sides of the end fittings on both straps looked a little bit sparse. So thought I'd spend a half day and weld them in a bit better, make sure I got some penetration, and them dress them up with my grinder, and top coat them off with some POR-15 gloss black. Got out my trusty little 110ac flux core wire welder and ran a bead around all four end fittings, then took out the grinder and started cleaning up the welds to smooth them out so I could get a descent coat of paint on them that has a chance at sticking. At that point, it hit me,...that it may not have been a good idea to have welded across the area of the strap where the end fitting joint is close to the bend in the strap, (see attached pictures 1 and 2),...I wish my mind would/could move as quick as my body does,...seems like I catch myself doing this over and over,..second guessing myself once somethings done....anyway - this is too critical a thing to guess on or make assumptions about,... So any of you welding guys out there, with experience - I'd appreciate the feedback and input,....once again, I hope my question makes sense here,...I'll repeat it. Originally each end fitting (whether it was the threaded bolt end or the bent sheet metal tab end shown in the pictures) had about 1/2-3/4" of weld down each side of the fitting, I came back along and finished the welding down each side, but also welded across the butt end of the fittings where the fitting connects to the strap about 2 inches down on to the strap,....wondering if that last weld across the strap might have not been a good idea in regards to any effects the welding might have on the strap metal itself ?? Especially on the fitting end shown in pictures 1 and 2, where that horizontal weld was about a half inch away from the fabricated bend in the strap... Thanks in advance for the help.. Steve
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