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3046moparcoupe last won the day on October 24 2017

3046moparcoupe had the most liked content!

About 3046moparcoupe

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Music/Guitar and Old Cars / Streetrods
  • My Project Cars
    1930 Plymouth Model-U 3 Window Coupe, and 1946 P15 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    60 yr old OCD / Old Car Disease
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Hurst Tx
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopar, guitars

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635 profile views
  1. 3 door hinge pins out / 1 being stubborn / heat ???

    Thanks for the reply back Branded, you may have a good solid point there,....just trying to do the right things with these hinges 1st time around...as I figure I only get 1 shot to do it right before it ends up being a botched process.....thank you.
  2. 3 door hinge pins out / 1 being stubborn / heat ???

    Branded, I like the idea of any repair/restoration, that has as long of a working life as possible...(never have been interested in the quick fix that isn't gonna get ya down the road very far), in saying that, I'm truly not sure that using the more modern style setup of a hinge pin used with bronze bushings,...is an example of that...?? Certainly later in auto technology, mfgs went that route, and decided that it would be better to have a wear point that could be replaced,...but also the more modern era doors I believe are quite a bit lighter in overall weight, than what these old doors were ?? Yes , absolutely I had thought about maybe trying to modify the door hinges to accept a hinge pin/bronze bushing setup,...but also wondered why Mopar didn't do it that way originally to begin with ?? They were already using bronze bushings in the clutch and brake pedals, as well as in the torque shaft.. ?? Sorta figured it might be due to the fact that the weight of the doors would take the bronze bushings out so fast, that they might have decided against it ? Just my SWAG (sophisticated wild ass guess on all this. Have you had any experience with restoring these hinges with pins and bronze bushings ? or know of any success stories in that regard ?? Steve
  3. 3 door hinge pins out / 1 being stubborn / heat ???

    Thanks Mr. Moose - heat it is,....next step - get that last hinge separated,.....It would make sense to me that you want your pin to have it's interference fit on both ends of the pin, where your knurling is located and the far opposite end, to hold the pin firm inside the hinge frame itself,......then your non interference fit would be a bit larger around the center of the pin - where the hinge tongue itself (heavy strap section of hinge that attaches to the door),...can rotate freely around the mid section of the hinge pin, when the door is opened and closed.....any recommendations on how many thousands of clearance is optimal ?? too tight a fit not good, too loose a fit and you shorten the service life, a couple thousands if possible ?? The other element of these old style hinges I caught myself looking at, was in respect to gravity's basic pull downward on the door, which is always gonna have the door hinge tongue resting/riding on the bottom pivot surface of both the upper and lower door hinge...looks like eventually no matter if the pins are tight, this metal to metal area, on the bottom, where each hinge tongue to hinge frame contacts, and pivots when being moved,...is gonna wear so far that the hinge is no longer any good ?? When that happens - I suppose you could add material back with a welder and resurface, (don't know anything about how hardened this steel on these hinges is - and probably way easier said than done), or possible adding in metal shim (to take the place of the metal now lost to friction/wear ) to raise the hinge tongue back up slightly - in effort of re-centering the hinge tongue back in the middle of the hinge frame ?? Maybe I'm trying to take on too many aspects of refurbishing the hinges, at one single time ?,.....is it best to tackle the pin fitment 1st, then look at the tongue alignment secondary ? I suppose my reason for asking, is in effort of avoiding a lot of work that could end up being for naught - if the hinge frame to hinge tongue pivot opening fitment has become too sloppy vertically, and that turns out to be the kiss of death for an old hinge of this style ?? Wouldn't be the first time, I spent a bunch of hours on a part, to find out later that I (other than learning a good lesson), had just wasted my time... Don't know if it's possible for anyone to give me any pointers on this part of the hinge's wear,....as being within tolerance or out of tolerance....maybe a few thousands of wear here in this area is no big deal ? The hinge frame does sorta seem to give you a reference to look at - when the hinge tongue is installed with the pin, you can operate open and close the hinge tongue while holding the assy in your hand and eye the clearance gap on each side of the hinge tongue, (small space between the edge of the hinge tongue and the edge of the hinge frame on both sides of the tongue), if a person did whatever was necessary (adding shim stock) to get the hinge tongue centered,...would that be as good as possible ?? I'm thinking maybe my forum member name is gonna need to be changed from "3046" to "Mr.Question"... God bless you all for your willingness to share your hard earned knowledge with others, like me Steve
  4. Got all the hinges off the Club Coupe without stripping anything,...not much if any paint left on the hinges anywhere (lots of rust inside and out). Oddly enough, the drivers door didn't seem to have much if any sag, but the passenger side had some. from memory you could see the door raise probably a 1/4" when it was shut and hit the striker. When I grabbed these hinges to feel for play, 3 of them felt tighter than I had expected, but you could feel just a slight bit of movement,...(something like what I would guess to be maybe between a 64th and a 32nd or so, not very much,....but the 4th hinge (passenger side bottom hinge) had what felt like at least twice or triple that amount of play in it, you could see it moving... A little penetrating oil soaking, and a hammer/ punch / and a deep socket as a backup removed the 1st three hinge pins with just a few medium raps with a small hammer....but this 4th hinge pin (the one that was so sloppy) isn't giving it up....I've got it to move a bit,....but I am a little hesitant about hitting the assy very hard with a hammer...you can tell the pins is free on both ends (where it anchors into the hinge frame, but it's froze up in the middle section (where it slides through the hinge strap itself) - yuck not good,....my mind is telling me this one is definitely gonna have to have more done to it than just possible adding a new pin,..with it turning on both ends like that, it would look to me like it's gonna have to be oversized to be saved and made to work...?? Any thoughts, experience with this ? So just as I've learned with rusted frozen bolts, I'd like to use some heat to try and break that rust bond up,....I've just read on the HAMB where it seems to be fairly common practice to use a heat wrench (Torch) in getting these things out....Just thought I'd ask about putting heat on this hinge here on the forum, don't wanna make a mistake,..I'm thinking anything to do with these hinges is pretty much a one shot thing, better get it right the 1st time...?? if you guys here on the forum confirm that using heat on a hinge is OK, my 1st run at it is gonna be more like using warm water on it, in comparison to what you guys normally do. I don't have a real torch rig yet with a nice rose bud tip,...so my 1st run at it would be with a small hand held torch,.....not a fraction as good - but I have found that if you just stay the course, eventually it will heat up to almost a hint of reddish,...anyway - I figure it can't hurt to try,....that is - if Heat on a hinge is OK ???? My book says that the hinge pins for these 46-48 Plymouths were originally 1/4" diameter, I guess someone has already drilled these and oversized,..mine are around the .341-.343 diameter, so I'm thinking they are 11/32 diameter pins,....anyone out there know for sure, if the original pins were 1/4 dia or 11/32 dia. ?? These pins I got out all measure right at 2 - 1/16th inch from under the head to the tip of the pin, 2 - 3/16th " overall....there's not anything out there I can find that's 11/32nd's dia and that short, course I know people cut them off to the size you need, butt these really don't look like they were cut...if they were cut by hand - they did a nice matching job on all of them...I looked through Dorman's complete listing of hinge pins today and found a couple of long ones that might work for me, one pin had a diameter of .350 and the other was .352.... This is really gonna be a learning experience, you guys you've been there and done it, I'd sure appreciate a word of advice from your corner. many thanks - AGAIN Steve
  5. heater defrost vent knozzel mtg question

    Some weeks back, a forum member was good enough to reply in regards to one of my previous posts about avoiding dash rattles,...I remembered that he had said he chased a dash rattle for some time that ended up being a defrost vent nozzle, and he mentioned that it was hard to get to....so I messaged him about this question of whether the vent nozzels screwed in from up top or down below....he replied back today and said that his were screwed in from underneath the dash pointing upwards - just as I had found mine when I took it apart... Always more than one way to skin a cat, and I'm not trying to make something out of nothing here, (although I seem to be pretty good at it sometimes ..... In all honesty - I could see advantages and dis-advantages to either way,..... 1) : screwing in from the bottom - you give yourself additional clearance in regards to the screw itself (eliminating the presence of the screw head) and the closest mounting ear of the dash itself (which is really close - like so close I believe your average screw head would hit the edge of it, at least when I measure mine it looks that way),...but - if the screw ever does work itself loose - much harder to get to,...... 2): screw in from the top,....always really easy to get to if you need to tighten it, but you'd have to work the mtg ears of each vent nozzle over and up through the vent opening, if ou were to use a sheet metal screw like I found had been used previously (I can see all my new paint on the vents scratched to crap ),...then you'd have to contend with your screw head rubbing or interfering with the dash mtg ear....also it was kinda hard to see, but raising the vent that additional height to allow the mtg ears to ride on top of the dash, might have caused the vent nozzels themselves to rub underneath, and so on,....so it begins to mushroom into using a screw with a small head and a lock washer and nut, thereby allowing the vent to remain butted up against the bottom side of the dash....ya da ya da yada,..... With this forum member also finding a long sheet metal screw inserted in from underneath the dash pointing upwards, I'm not alone on this, and this method should help insure that the close mtg ear on my dash won't be trying to ride up in the heads of these vent screws. Now, let's see if I can stay clear of those sharp screw threads, when I fit that newly painted dash into place...!!!! Thank you Forum Steve
  6. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 tranny bearings

    Glad to post, definitely want to help back any way I can - as I've received so much help here on the forum, stayed up most of last night reading about this company,....they have an A+ BBB rating, but I've also discovered that as of late the Better Business Bureau has been charged with given folks a minimum of an A- rating for a $425.00 fee they call a club fee (no matter what or how many complaints they have),....when I looked at their reviews on the BBB, it was based off of just a small handful of reviews, (something like 8 positive, 3 neg, and 1 neutral),...I also noticed that a bunch of the positives were dated on the very same day,..(which seemed a little suspicious to me),...after ordering I also discovered that they sell on ebay,...99.3 satisfaction rating there, but I don't think I'd buy my bearings off of Ebay,....the more I've read, it sounds like these guys at locate bearings may be buying their bearings from anywhere, or anybody,...so if there's ac chance your getting a bearing that's been dropped, a second, etc....I sure don't want it...... I point blank asked the fella, are they New,..answer (yes), you are just cutting out the middle man,.....are they usa made , (yes), .. and then when I read that MRC was now a product of SKF, I ordered them.... One thing about the few complaints I did see on the reviews is that they were consistent, company sent the wrong bearing - very poor communication, delay in getting refund, and in final was charged a 20% restock fee even though it was their fault,......?? Locate Ball bearings shows to be in California and Ohio,....I found where the Ohio branch showed annual earning of $7 million, that's quite a few bearings, I believe I read 3-4 really bad reviews,....don't order from this company - they are crooks, etc....same thing on ebay,..1779 positive, 8 neutral, 13 negative.... I'm usually not one of the lucky ones All responses encouraged and welcome....actually very much encouraged....:) Steve
  7. Wanted to share this with the forum. I just placed the order so we shall see if it turns out as good as I'm hoping for. The bearings in my 3 speed manual tranny were as follows: pp# MRC207 SFG (main pinion drive bearing shielded one side),##note##thxs to DB4YA I knew the shielding on one side was important and has to be there. pp#MRC207 S (main shaft front bearing) pp#MRC206 S (main shaft rear bearing) My understanding is that the main pinion drive bearing is typically the one that will go bad 1st, and sure enough when I checked these (as instructed by PlymouthyAdams) it was the one of the three that was noisy. Wasn't finding much on the MRC part number, however did find where it had been previously discussed here on the forum once before, and DB4Ya had helped another member cross the original Mopar part number (619167), over to a Federal Mogul p# of 1207SL....I thinking like other company's and in respect to the economy, they can sell off/ merge/ etc...seems like business as usual these days, anyway - the best luck I was having on the 1207SL part number was under Timken. The bearing looked correct by description, so I'm thinking Federal Mogul and Timken may all be the same now,.. lastly here, I'm a newbie, that's learning,..but even I can understand the importance of quality in respect to bearings,...and Timken is a name I've seen since I was young..however today when I discovered that MRC is a division of SKF,and that they were USA made, I purchased a full replacement set (all 3 bearings) MRC207SFG, MRC207S and MRC206S, for a total of $42.00 + $13.00 (4 day shipping) = $55.00 to my door from locate ballbearings.com. According to the Fella I spoke with (Mark Hoffman, see the info below), by ordering through him, I cut out the middleman....he told me he stocked and sold quite a few of the bearings I purchased, that he recognized the numbers, etc...course, only he and the man upstairs know if that's actually true or not. Typically I've learned, " if it seems to good to be true, it probably is - too good to be true ", so I was/still am a bit skeptical, but I needed to make a decision and pulled the trigger and ordered from them....so well see, I suppose. Just wanted to share this info with the group, as the prices I was getting on a Timken 1207SL bearing were ranging from around $70 + shipping and upwards towards a $ Benjamin. I'll follow up with this, once they are received, etc.. Mark HoffmanLocate Ball Bearingswww.locateballbearings.commark@locateballbearings.com75090 St. Charles Place, Suite BPalm Desert CA 92211 Steve
  8. heater defrost vent knozzel mtg question

    Dr thanks for your reply back,....not trying to make something out of nothing here,....but mounting them the way you are seeing yours would raise the vent slightly (not much but a smidge), and it would definitely keep those screw threads away from your molding/piping/and dash edge....sorta crazy why someone would do it the other way around, like I found mine....I just say that because it would seem the more difficult way to mount them, (as the screws are a bit harder to get started from underneath, especially one of them which was partially obstructed by the 1 3/4 heater duct opening....if your screws are entering from the top, then the mtg ears of the defrost vents themselves have to be worked up and over the opening in the cowl, as the screw holes in the vents themselves are oversized. The screw only tightens down into the smaller hole below in the cowl metal itself... thank you...any other p15 owners out there with similar or different observations please respond as well..... thanks again, much'o Steve
  9. Saw a really good picture Young Ed had posted on here back from Dec of 2008 of the dash on his P15....just about everything was in place but the garnish molding was still off. When I saw the picture I was sure it would show me what I needed to know, but I just couldn't quite tell for sure....as the picture was taken straight on facing the dash.. I just re-attached my defrost vent brkts/bezzels.knozzels - back to the car,...and I installed them exactly the way they came out per the notes and sketches I made,....I don't remember anything looking odd when I got the car, as the garnish molding sorta covers everything up around that top edge of the dash...but when I put it back together today - the shiny threaded ends of those sheet metal type screws, pointing straight up and staring me in the face,...got me to second guessing whether I was actually putting these back in correctly... Both of these defrost vent pieces were attached to the cowl, from underneath,....with the screws inserted from below the cowl and threaded into their respective holes from below. So the 2ea mtg ears on each of the defrost vent brkts/bezels/knozzels are pushed up against the underneath side of the cowl, then the screws are also inserted from below, and threaded up through the bezel, and through the cowl...leaving the screw threads exposed up top, until the garnish molding goes on...?? I was sitting watching TV this evening and it dawned on me, obviously the defrost vent brkts/bezels,...have to go in from underneath the dash,...but it might be possible to feed the mtg ears of each vent through the slot in the cowl, up and over one and a time,..then the screws could go in from the top side of the cowl, leaving the screw heads exposed from up top, rather than the screw threads being exposed from up top, the way mine was and the way I currently have it... Hopefully this makes sense,....if any P15 forum members remember, or if your garnish molding is still possible off, don't know if a peek through the windshield down through the slots in the garnish moldings would allow a person to see or not,....it would be nice to get these installed back correctly.. Thanks again for all the help you've sent my way so far... Steve
  10. Reverse Idler Gear PP# Cross Reference Info needed

  11. This is rich hartung Here is some more ingo on the gears.  Listened to your voice message last night

    call me cell 484-431-8157   or desoto1939@aol.com

    Rich Hartung live near Philadelphia paimage.png.d83c05b17c1c11d413254269515f27d8.png

  12. Reverse Idler Gear PP# Cross Reference Info needed

    Wanted to share this with folks. I just purchased a new 1st /rev slider gear off ebay from a seller, 100% satisfaction rating, he offers a return policy, his seller name is jrvintagegears. The gear I received is amazingly clean and truly looks to have never been run. In comparison to what folks are asking for this stuff, ( especially in respect to the quality ), he also seems reasonable on his prices....this gear was $69 Along with posting here on the forum, I also messaged him (Jim) asking if he had any interchange documentation for the Republic gear, due to a previous conversation we had about the Borg Warner gear I purchased, and he had been willing and offered to fax me interchange info on the borg Warner WT243-12 interchanging with a Mopar 853886. He answered me back today as follows: Hi ---- I checked my republic interchange book WT243-10 -- K207-8A ---952244 -- all part numbers are the correct same gear ----- JIM I thanked Jim and messaged him back, that if possible - I would appreciate having a copy of the info he found regarding these gears all interchanging....I'll let folks know if he is able to follow through with the fax... So far, I would highly recommend jrvintagegears on ebay, from me experience, fast excellent communication,..Jim seems to value and appreciate his customers and doesn't try to sell inferior stuff. hopefully I'll possible have a copy of this info early this next week and I'll share it here on the forum. Steve
  13. editied you posting on the forum. Also found several of the gears that you are looking for. even ones intot eh 50-60 used the same gear wt243-10A


    call me cell 484-431-8157   or desoto1939@aol.com

    Rich Hartung live near Philadelphia pa

  14. Trying to confirm if a Republic 15 tooth Gear, part #K207-8A, is a good interchange number for a Mopar 952244 15 tooth Reverse idler Gear. My understanding is that the aftermarket Borg Warner version of the 952244 gear is Borg Warner part # WT243-10. (If that helps in any way). I've tried different search engines and nothing's coming up for the K2078A part number. hoping maybe someone here on the forum who's been doing this since dirt was first invented might have some old cross reference books. Many thanks Steve Gentry
  15. P15 Clutch release fork lever spring 626220

    Thank you Don and Dpollo, I'd say that's about as much help as a person could ask for...I appreciate it. Steve