Jump to content

3046moparcoupe

Members
  • Content count

    220
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

3046moparcoupe last won the day on October 24 2017

3046moparcoupe had the most liked content!

About 3046moparcoupe

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hurst
  • Interests
    Music/Guitar and Old Cars / Streetrods
  • My Project Cars
    1930 Plymouth Model-U 3 Window Coupe, and 1946 P15 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    60 yr old OCD / Old Car Disease
  • Occupation
    retiree

Converted

  • Location
    Hurst Tx
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopar, guitars

Recent Profile Visitors

995 profile views
  1. 3046moparcoupe

    heater switch ? for deluxe dual heater setup in P15

    DB4ya, as mentioned in my original post,....yes sir - my heater switch has two resistor coils, each encased inside it's own tubular ceramic shell,.... as previously mentioned, I was thinking it was for multiple speeds,...but now that you have shed light on this,....if there's only a "low" and a "high", why would there be a resistor for the high speed ? there wouldn't be one , would there ? low speed for each motor would use the resistors, then the high speed would run off the 6v direct to each motor - by-passing the resistors completely. Once again, I show my failing mental capacity this getting old thing stinks !! I would think that in a few weeks , when I extend the wiring harness in and under the dash and wire the switch up, that this would have made itself evident in my head, but none the less - I know now whats up, and it's very much appreciated on this end. Yes sir, thank you again DB4ya...I appreciate your efforts to take the time to set me on the straight path, once again.. Steve
  2. When we got our 46 Plymouth Club Coupe project it had two of everything (two heater cores), (two blower motor assemblies), etc...the main (larger unit) was connected to the fresh air box on the passenger side and it contains the mechanism/doorway to adjust between heater and defrost...the smaller unit hung off the fresh air box on the drivers side and strictly served as a heater for the interior cab of the car. Over the past few years of learning here on the forum, I've come to know this setup as being the deluxe heater assy for these old mopar cars. When I was taking this all apart, everything looked factory to me,..EXCEPT,...some of the holes in the firewall where the heater core in/out tubes connect through the firewall, looked like they were cut out with a hammer and a chisel, (actually not that bad - but uneven oblong shaped holes with some pretty rough cuts. This made me wonder if an individual had done the upgrade themselves or if possible a small dealership had done it, etc… who knows, only time I suppose....:) All that said, and with things now going back together, here's my brain fart/question for the day in regards to all this. For you guys and/or gals out there who have the dual heater setup. Would not the heater on/off switch also need to be upgraded to power the additional motor ? I'm wondering if I've got the correct heater motor switch for this dual setup. Any way to identify and know for sure ? or was there just a single switch offered that was capable of carrying everything from the budget heater assy up to the deluxe version ? I went through the switch that was in this car, and cleaned up the internal contact surfaces and greased it, however I don't believe there is any kind of identifying part number on the thing. It does have two (2) ceramic cylinder shaped resistors on the switch for low and high I would suppose. Thought it might be wise to run this by you folks with experience, as I definitely don't need any electrical issues like this later on, especially with one of the larger amp draw electrical accessories like the blower motors. Thanks so much for the help. This forum is exceptional. Steve
  3. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    Pretty amazing - the level of help one can get here on the forum. Thanks again to you all who have been so good to help me over the past 4 years.
  4. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 fresh air box lower door hrdw question

    DB4ya, THANK YOU !! This should fix me up...looks like I've got all the parts (the short clevis pin and the small L brkt.) this makes more sense,.. (the push/pull arm from the door itself, one end of the spring, and the small "L" brkt, all slide onto the clevis pin, which is anchored through the bottom hole of the main swivel brkt. and the opposite end of the spring anchors to the upper hole of the main swivel brkt. Then the push rod runs from the small "L" brkt over to the handle and the main dash support beam.) That second picture really shows it all well. You are the goodz. Thanks for taking the time and effort to get these pics to me so quick. Steve
  5. I'm finishing up the last of the install of the fresh air box back into the car (46 P15 Club Coupe). I took the attached two pics a few years back before pulling it all out. These two pics show both ends of the spring associated with the lower rectangular fresh air door, and how it was attached when I took this all apart. Top end of the spring would seem correct as it anchors to a hole in the linkage brkt. The bottom end of the spring was just anchored around the handle push rod. I'm wondering if this is correct ? I don't really see any other available holes, etc..but again, if I'm missing a part - it wouldn't be the first time If anyone can confirm from these pics if this looks correct, or if anyone possible has an oem diagram layout, or can take a pic, etc...it would be greatly appreciated.. many thanks. Steve
  6. Was looking at my new gas tank straps and the short welds down the sides of the end fittings on both straps looked a little bit sparse. So thought I'd spend a half day and weld them in a bit better, make sure I got some penetration, and them dress them up with my grinder, and top coat them off with some POR-15 gloss black. Got out my trusty little 110ac flux core wire welder and ran a bead around all four end fittings, then took out the grinder and started cleaning up the welds to smooth them out so I could get a descent coat of paint on them that has a chance at sticking. At that point, it hit me,...that it may not have been a good idea to have welded across the area of the strap where the end fitting joint is close to the bend in the strap, (see attached pictures 1 and 2),...I wish my mind would/could move as quick as my body does,...seems like I catch myself doing this over and over,..second guessing myself once somethings done....anyway - this is too critical a thing to guess on or make assumptions about,... So any of you welding guys out there, with experience - I'd appreciate the feedback and input,....once again, I hope my question makes sense here,...I'll repeat it. Originally each end fitting (whether it was the threaded bolt end or the bent sheet metal tab end shown in the pictures) had about 1/2-3/4" of weld down each side of the fitting, I came back along and finished the welding down each side, but also welded across the butt end of the fittings where the fitting connects to the strap about 2 inches down on to the strap,....wondering if that last weld across the strap might have not been a good idea in regards to any effects the welding might have on the strap metal itself ?? Especially on the fitting end shown in pictures 1 and 2, where that horizontal weld was about a half inch away from the fabricated bend in the strap... Thanks in advance for the help.. Steve
  7. 3046moparcoupe

    Bad Reproduction Fender Stone Guards on Ebay

    Jiffyjet/Mike W.,...I was just curious who covered the shipping costs to send that 1st scratched tank that got replaced back to the vendor,...thxs Steve
  8. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Ed, here's what I did to get the brushes back in place. The 1st couple of times I did this, I used 2ea pieces of masking tape (about 3" long each) and once I had the brush push back in place in the holder, I laid the masking tape down over the top of the brush holder, across the end of the brush and then let about 1/8 inch or so try to stick to the inside of the end cap, ( in the small area between the brush holder and your bushing hole), then I would have a few inches hanging outside the end cap to grab later.. I was amazed that the spring tension was not so strong that the tape actually held the brush inside the holder well enough for me to get the end cap in place, then once the end cap was about 75% on, I'd pulled the tape out. I used this method about 1/2 dozen times as I was playing with these motors, and it worked pretty well, (never seemed to damage a brush that I could tell - never got one caught up) a few hiccups (once the tape tore and left some inside so I had to start over, once the tape wasn't quite holding well enough (probably a little oil or something), so I used a second piece of tape on that one and also taped the wire to the brush down in place , which worked..(was kinda hating to treat the brushes that way, but this good yellow 3m tape isn't supposed to and doesn't seem to leave any residue, etc).....but then, after a bit of this...., once I noticed that I had about a 1/2" or so of sliding up and down movement in the internal armature of the motor, I found that I could slide the armature shaft down as far as it wanted to go, and it gave me enough clearance that I could actually get the end of the shaft started in the bushing hole of the end cap, with the brushes just loosely taped back into the holders, then I could reach in with a tooth pick and gentle push the brush back into the holder, kinda one at a time to make room for the brushes to move back far enough to clear that little grease shield and rest on the commutator surface...this allowed me to remove the tape much quicker than before while the gap between the end cap and motor housing was still open a bit. Seemed to work a lot better. That moving the armature down and just getting that extra 1/2" or so was huge in having just a little room to work....hope this makes sense..... Eneto - I don't know why the motors Ed and I have, don't have a little hole in them in the end cap, where you can use a paper clip wire to hold the brushes in place, it sure would be easier, but these end caps on these motors just have screw holes that don't align up, and little rivet holes that are full of rivet heads Ed, I was able to get 2 cages off the motor shafts last night....they pulled easy, after standing them up vertically and letting PB Blaster sit in them for the day. I was seeing the blaster dis-appear all through the day, (So I took a paper towel and wrapped it around the shaft where it meets the motor housing jut to keep that stuff from going down inside the motor), anyway last night, I went ahead and gave each a twisty and they came right off....these 2 motors are going to ft Worth generator in the next few minutes.....I've still got 2 however, they so far - after a day of soaking - the Blaster is still just sitting there...not much choice but to continue I suppose - as you mentioned earlier, and be patient.... You know I'll help ya out with one of these motors. I don't know what they'll charge me, (so far they've been super reasonable), so let me see how many I end up with, etc...but I won't forget ya on this... Steve'o
  9. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Eneto, you can trust Ed to speak the truth, he doesn't speak out unless he's for sure,...and he knows the P15 cars well....so we both learned something here....thanks again Ed,.. Ed, yeppurs, I just got back from Oreilley's, and it was a toss up, between the new Wd-40 professional, the old faithful PB -Blaster, and another I'd never seen before, free up Rust, or something like that,...anyway - I went with the PB Blaster, I've used it before (course they probably pretty much all got the same stuff in em), anyway - here we go....and you are correct, (I didn't know this, Plymouthy taught me this a few weeks back), motor with permanent magnents, swap the input power polarity, motor changes direction,......motor with field coils, swap the input power polarity motor doesn't change directions, you have to reverse the wiring at the field coils,...but in regards to that, I just noticed something this morning about the 6ea motors I have,....4ea RH and 2ea LH,....the LH motors are a bit smaller in physical size, the blower box/core/etc on the LH size is also a bit smaller than the RH side,....(not that a RH motor wouldn't bolt up to the smaller core box, but I did wonder if the slightly larger motor might draw a few more amps, etc...anyway - since I've got both I'm gonna try to go back with the smaller motor on the LH side and the larger on the RH side, the way it appears Mopar did it......so far I was able to g et a cage off of one of each flavor motor, so I took both of them over to Randy at fort Worth Starter and Generator,...to go through them,...he said he'd go completely through them, put new wires on , new grommets, etc...so we'll see....they've been there forever and have 100% positive reviews, and they've always been super reasonable and done great work for me, so I may just get all these motors done depending on how pricey it turns out to be... Oil Soup, I'd sure like to get new heater cores, even though these I have aren't stopped up, and they look clean, how close are they to having pin holes, etc...on the inside ?....I just wouldn't think there'yd be a snowballs chance in finding a core that would exit and enter through the firewall where it needed to work with these boxes without a lot of modification,....I guess you can't have your cake and eat it to ,..huh ? I'll do some research on the cores available and see what I can find...thank you for the input..
  10. 3046moparcoupe

    P15 heater Assy work, duct, blower motors L & R..

    Eneto, yes you are correct. On this dual heater setup one faceplate reads Comfort Master and the other reads Mopar Model 54. A year or so back I also purchased a spare dual heater/fresh air box assembly off ebay that was a match for this one, ( face plates read the same thing), when it arrived it had a tag on it that said it had been removed from a 1941 Dodge. Last week, I picked up a single heater unit from a fellow over in Plano. he said it came out of a P15 Coupe that he used to own. Anyway, it's the larger heater box that has the doorway for the heater to vent cable control and the 2ea outlets for your 2inch defrost vent hoses.....being just a single unit it just reads comfort master on the faceplate....but all these I have and have seen are identical in that, the outer oval shaped box that your blower motor squirrel cage stabs into, is screwed together,..but the inner duct - inside the oval shaped box that routes the air, is spot welded into the interior of the oval box, (hope that makes sense).. I would agree with you, I does sound like you have a heater from an older yr model. I believe the standard single heater unit for a P15 would be just like the larger unit on the left side of the picture I attached here. and it would mount to the interior firewall on the passenger side. Maybe someone with more experience here on the forum will comment and post as to whether we are thinking correctly here, but from what I've seen - I believe this is correct. Steve
  11. Built our new wiring harness and have it coming through the firewall laying in the floor of the cab. Figured I better get the fresh air box back in place, and all the switches and gauges mounted up before I selected my harness route and started making 2nd end wire cuts and crimps. I've got more hours than I probably should have put into this fresh air box/heater assembly, originally mine was spot welded together in places and screwed together in others. I drilled pilot holes and used steel rivets where the parts were originally spot welded...(which allowed me to paint 100% of each part prior to assembly). I guess this method has offered up some success, but the way this all sandwiches together, it's a bit dis-heartening to watch your paint get knocked off as many of the parts are too tight a fit due to the paint being there....anyway - pound to fit and then paint to match with your touch up brush ( I used high temp rattle can engine enamel on this, and I've found when I need touch up, if I'll spray some in a cup and let it sit for a bit, to let the carrier solvent evaporate away, you can then brush it on to touch up - with better results and coverage.) Wanted to ask you guys with the experience out there,....about my blower motors. This old P15 club coupe had the dual heater cores and blower setup in it....(I've come to believe since working on the car that someone added the second blower.duct/etc....I don't believe it came from the factory this way),....anyway - my plan has been to leave it the way it was and go back with the dual heaters.. My original fresh air box was badly eaten up, so I purchased a spare dual assembly I found on ebay and had lots of parts to work with...took the cleanest of whatever and started working to go back with it. Ended up with 2 heater cores that don't leak and are way cleaner than what I took out of our car, and now have a total of 6ea blower motors. Not too long ago, someone shared with me, (and it makes sense if you think about it), in the dual heater assembly setup, you have a blower motor that turns left hand and a blower motor that turns right hand. Out of these 6 motors, 4ea are RH and 2ea are LH, and the corresponding fan cages also have the slots pointing in opposing directions when you compare a LH to a RH...However when you look at the offset allen screw that attaches the cage to the shaft, it appears that the same squirrel cage is used for both, it's just turned 180 degrees one way or the other when installed....THAT LEADS ME TO MY QUESTION I WAS HOPING TO FURTHER MY EDUCATION ON HERE ON THE FORUM,....So far I've only been able to get one of these squirrel cages off without destroying it, and on that one I took a pair of pliers and held the shaft near the motor, grabbed the cage with my free hand and slowly began twisting it,...magic !! it came right off (course I'd already removed the allen screw),...tried it again on motor #2, and no dice,....even pulled the gorilla tape off my channel lock pliers to get a bit more bite on the shaft and still no luck,....at that point, since I had six of these cages, I cut the cage off the motor shaft. A bit easier said than done, actually I used by hand grinder and a thin cut off disc and slowly ground the wheel hub off. I used my fingers on the motor shaft as a heat sink and thermometer to tell me when to stop grinding as when I would feel any increase in temp on the shaft at my fingers I would stop and wait a few minutes to let the shaft cool back down, and go again, etc, etc...until I got the hub off the shaft... Anyone out there got any tricks on how to get these squirrel cages off the motor shafts without botching things up ? Also, (and this is something is respect to what I just learned from Plymouthy Adams here a few weeks back),...since these heater blower motors appear to be built with field coils, the internal wiring leads should be able to be reversed, changing the rotation direction of the motor, which would allow a RH motor to become a LH fairly easily... So if I could get these cages off the motor shafts, then go through the motors, and select the best two motors, revers the leads if necessary to make one LH rotation, and then install the squirrel cages clocked either for a LH or a RH rotation,...I should be good to go ?? I THINK Actually, I'd like to get all these motors in as good a shape as possible for future use for me or someone. I'm finding 6v motors out there, but there all for Chevy or Ford. There may be other differences as well, but just at a glance I can see that the shafts don't look near long enough for our mopar stuff. All these motors spin. I tested them today using a 6v lantern battery. Some better than others. I took the bottom cap off two and had quite a bit of fun figuring out how to get the brushes back in place and the caps back on, but finally I managed to accomplish it..once I got the cage off a motor and I had the end cap off as well, I would have though that I could push the armateur out the bottom of the motor but it would not come out. I was hoping I could get to the top bearing, anyone out there know ? do you have to drill those little rivets out to get it to separate ? I wish the parts book showed something on the heater assembly, the shop manual has an overview but nothing detailed..
  12. 3046moparcoupe

    butt connectors / whats the deal, pickle :)

    Just wanted to add a final note to this post as maybe it will help someone out someday. The Gardner bender Butt (bullet connectors) I show pictured in my last (the previous) reply to this post,..are a perfect fit for the headlight switch barrels on the P15 headlight switch. They don't come with the nice adhesive heat shrink built onto them like a marine connector, but the fit of the bullet into the barrel is perfect. I also ordered some marine grade bullet connectors (with the nice heat shrink), that were listed as the smaller size bullet, that should also fit into the barrel on the headlight switch, but they are a bit too large, so to use them your gonna have to spread your outer ring on the switch out a bit,... These Gardner Bender Bullet connectors are available at Home Depot. I just removed the hard yellow plastic from the connector - crimped it up, and used some good heat shrink around it. The part numbers are as follows: pp# 15-163p , desc: Bullet Splice .156" dia. 14-16 awg cost $1.96, gets you 5ea males and 5ea females pp# 15-162p, desc: " " " " 10-12 awg " " " " I also found these same Gardner Bender connectors on ebay, but they've jacked the price up to something like $15 for 10 connectors...(but of course - you get free shipping Steve
  13. 3046moparcoupe

    loose dash light switch contact rivets

    I agree with the pounding thing, that's why using the hole punch pliers with a washer, to press against the rivet head and the opposing round area of the brass contact seemed like a good choice, as it limited the force being applied to only the brass /metal areas....also thought about mixing up a small dab of epoxy,...(if I can get it clean enough for the stuff to try and stick),... should help re-enforce,...definitely a wise suggestion on holding the terminal brackets with some needle nose pliers to relieve the stress of the screwdriver....thxs for the input guys..
  14. 3046moparcoupe

    loose dash light switch contact rivets

    I just went through this dash light switch, cleaned it up, greased it, painted the exterior, and today was pulling the masking tape off to get ready to stick it inside the dash and I noticed a had a little looseness in both of the contact L screw brackets. Not much but just enough to see - if you wiggled them with your finger. Taped up my paint job to try and avoid loosing as much paint as possible and pulled it apart again. (Tried the one rivet punch tool I do own but it was a little large and didn't help any ). Then took my hole punch pliers and a small washer (to try and avoid damaging/cutting the rivet up), some masking tape over the opposing contact side, and gave each a squeeze. It tightened 'em both up, feels like a 100% improvement from where they were, (just using slight finger pressure they don't move now),...but knowing that they will have to survive wire attachment torque with a screw driver when installed - it seemed wise to try and secure them as well as possible. Thought about trying to solder down on top of them. Got my soldering iron out and experimented with trying to stick silver solder to a brass washer,..the solder did finally stick, (but I use the word loosely - I could pick at it and after a few minutes - the solder would come off)….still thought maybe soldering over the top of the rivet head would at least sandwich it in and give it a little more strength...as it would lightly stick to the rivet head but should stick well to the steel L brkt terminals..? Anyone out there got any ideas ?? A better way ?? Leave it alone as is ?? A little dab of something like a JB weld epoxy ?? Just go ahead and try to find another switch ?? All reply's welcome and appreciated, thanks again. Steve
  15. Many thanks Donald, I really appreciate your patience and efforts to help me here on the forum...you have stepped up on just about every post for help I've made … and this time was certainly no different. I hope it all goes your way today Steve'o
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use