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3046moparcoupe

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3046moparcoupe last won the day on October 24

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About 3046moparcoupe

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hurst
  • Interests
    Music/Guitar and Old Cars / Streetrods
  • My Project Cars
    1930 Plymouth Model-U 3 Window Coupe, and 1946 P15 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    60 yr old OCD / Old Car Disease
  • Occupation
    retiree

Converted

  • Location
    Hurst Tx
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopar, guitars

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  1. galvanic corrosion / stainless steel washers ??

    Great reply's back from everyone, I appreciate it very much...probably the only place I have an electrolyte in place 100% of the time on my car, would be the water pump bolts,...however I used them (only the ss lock washers and flat washers) pretty much every where else on the car,...so I've got a steel or cast iron part, with a stainless lock washer inserted in between a grade 8 or chrome bolt... In theory, everything in place - but - the electrolyte,...except when exposed to rain water coming up off the road,....which should be only on a rare occasion as this isn't my daily driver and I wouldn't ever drive it in the rain on purpose...and I wouldn't think my washing the car in the future would be getting these surface areas wet. the humidity here averages around 40% and higher throughout the year though,...so in my peanut head - that's pretty much my full time electrolyte exposure,... I specifically chose AN type washers (small OD)., so I'm looking at humidity exposure pretty much on the outside edges only of those washers,.....hmmmmm ?? Thank you Tim for speaking with me over the phone about this... no matter where ya go - there ya are S.
  2. About 3 years back, after seeing a brand new stainless bolt and nut, gall together immediately after the nut was just hand tightened down,...I decided I'd not use any stainless steel bolts or nuts on my project. I suppose the answer to this for folks who have/do use stainless steel hardware is to use anti seize on everything,..(which if the anti seize remains over the course of things, I suppose is a perfectly good way to go).. My choice at the time, was to go with either chrome nuts and bolts ( for the smaller stuff 1/4" 5/16" etc),...and grade 8 steel bolts and or original steel nuts (for the larger 3/8" and so on). I DID HOWEVER USE STAINLESS STEEL WASHERS PRETTY MUCH ACROSS THE BOARD, as they were cheaper and I had it in my mind that they wouldn't be having their cad or zinc plating scratched off when assembled and begin rusting.... Now, I'm wondering about galvanic corrosion possibilities....?? Anyone out there have any experience with using stainless steel washers around these old cast iron and steel parts ?? thanks for the help... Steve
  3. Inexpensive Firewall Cover Repair 46-48 p15

    the nicer looking molded one is found in ebay under auction item # 331871739442, desc:1942 1948 Plymouth Firewall Pad, $293.27 + $40.55 shipping,...as far as the cheaper one,..It doesn't appear to still be listed on ebay, from memory it was around $90 including shipping, but it looked kinda homemade, folded cardboard and stapled together...but way better than nothing,...it was just like the firewall pad still shown in ebay under item #300868184879, desc:1949-1950 Plymouth deluxe firewall insulation pad. Steve
  4. Inexpensive Firewall Cover Repair 46-48 p15

    Same with me, ( course my car's been off the road for 3 yrs now), but this was one of those inside things I could do in the winter (except for the final sealing in the Plasti Dip).. I sprayed both sides and all the edges..which really helped to encapsulate and seal the pieces.
  5. What Greg G said I added an inline fuel filter on the drivers side, on the outside of the frame rail, tp prevent crap from getting into the needle and seat of the carb.
  6. Wanted to share the path we went down in trying to save the original Pressboard type Inner Firewall Cover from our P15 project. Ours was looking pretty sad and had a few areas on the drivers side that were missing. What I found available as a direct fit replacement looked either cheap (stapled together) or one that looked pretty descent, (was at least a molded piece) but was close to $300. I've got $50 in the following repair to our firewall cover and thought I'd like to share this here on the forum. I also applied the same method to my other cardboard/pressboard kick panels and heater side panel ducts with consistent results. Loctite 2 part epoxy, 1/8th inch pressboard/chipboard material (I purchased a new 12" x 16" piece off ebay for $3 dollars - delivered), 4 cans of Plasti-Dip flat black, and 1 can of Plasti-Dip Glossifier with Fade Buster (depending on where you get it, Lowes versus a smaller hdw. store like Ace, ea. can costs around $6-7 dollars). I used masking tape on the areas that were frayed (like the edges of the openings of the cover), to make form walls to hold the Loctite 2 part epoxy in place while it cured. larger spots I took a very small amount of fiberglass matt, cut it up with scissors, and mixed it in with the epoxy for strength). I used the new 1/8 " chipboard to make new pieces to replace areas that were missing, and applied the same process we used in doing fiberglass repair. Which is as follows: there's much less strength in attaching two sections with a square 90 degree angle, you just don't get enough glued surface area contact to allow for strength, but overlap the two pieces and mate them together by shaping each piece with an overlapping taper (so one piece rests upon the other piece ) and you gain strength. The rule of thumb we used doing fiberglass repair was to make your tapered surface area where your going to glue things back together, equal to the new surface area you area attaching. Never had one fail that way. I've attached some pics we took along the way, that show the firewall cover from the day we removed, then mid stream epoxy and chipboard repairs, and then this past week when they got Plasti-Dipped. Pretty straight forward easy. Like with all this kind of stuff, being clean is critical. I used brake parts cleaner to clean areas before glueing, and also before applying the Plasti Dip. I like the brake parts cleaner as it leaves no residue and dries away quickly. (This was all a "what have we got to lose kinda thing", but our bonds seem strong and we had no sings of contamination when applying epoxy or the Plasti Dip). The information is not found on the cans, but if you go read their tech sheet found on the internet, the plasti dip shows a temp range of -30f to 200 f, good chemical resistance (however petroleums are shown as limited), which I didn't think should be a big problem inside the car, and a life of 7-10 years (outside in the weather) with the UF coating applied. I really liked the flat black of the Plasti Dip (before the uv top coat was added which also gives it the gloss) a little better than the gloss finish, and debated on whether the sun could get to the very bottom of the Cover enough to warrant using the UV top coat, but decided to go that route for a bit more assurance in regards to longevity. Course once the epoxy repairs set up, you've got a bit of easy sanding to do...and before applying the Plasti Dip I went over the entire panels with a red scotch brite pad and brake parts cleaner..to promote adhesion. Fun stuff..whether it's sanding a part and painting it, or something like this,...I really enjoy trying to make these old forgotten, neglected parts look like something again. Steve'o
  7. 1946 P15 Hood Release Spring fitment

    Thank You JohnTeee, for standing on your head to take this picture for me. My spring must be the real deal..looks just like yours, I count 39 coils on both,...I'll move on with this... We sure appreciate your help, and thank you Tim as well, seeing your signature lets me know that you also don't see a problem or you'd let me/us know... Steve'o
  8. 1946 P15 Hood Release Spring fitment

    I've attached some pics of the lower half hood lock that I removed from our P15 a few years back. I removed the part, cleaned it up and painted it, bagged and tagged the misc. parts,....and put it all away to wait for the day it could be bolted back up in place. Attached the spring this evening and noticed that it rubs the lever arm at about dead center on the spring. (see attached pic #2 )..nothing looks bent and everything feels tight.......doesn't appear to me that it would prevent things from working, but did seem like it would have been real easy to eliminate this by building the forward attaching post about an 1/8 inch taller, ( heck maybe they wanted it to rub to keep it from rattling. ) Then started trying to determine if someone might have replaced with an incorrect spring. My oem parts book shows the following: pg:95, Group Code 15-11-16, pp# 906 066, Desc: Spring Hood Locking Bolt (5 coil) ??? well it's definitely got a lot more than 5 coils,...couldn't find any pics on the internet to help identify what a 906 066 spring should look like, however did find an ebay seller with a supposedly NOS lower latch plate and spring (see attached pic #1), which looks pretty much like the spring I have. Trying to confirm if I have the correct spring on this hood lock assy. Probably hard to tell if your spring is a match, or rubs, etc.. just by eyeballing, if it's all bolted up on the car. Thought I'd post anyway and maybe get lucky if someone has an assy and/or spring laying around they might be able to look at for me, or if you possible have calipers that will allow you to reach down and measure the diameter, that would help. I may also try messaging the ebay seller to see if he would measure the diameter of the spring he has to see if it's a match, however figure my chances of getting a response back, or accurate info.... are way better here on the forum.. All reply's welcome. We appreciate the help. Steve
  9. 46 P15 Vacuum wiper linkage connection to vacuum motor

    Thank you Mack & Tom, I sure do appreciate the reply's back. I have heard many times here on the forum that I overthink things - which probably limits the amount of replys / help I receive back from folks. not complaining about that, I understand completely,..they are probably 100% correct...all I can say is it's not an attempt on my part to try and impress anyone or outdo anyone, it's just the way God made me I suppose...in my previous occupations, it always was a plus for me and allowed for a successful boss/employee relationship, however that doesn't seem to be so much the case here on the forum,....I do want to stress however, that without the forum, and without all the help I have had from it's members over the last few years, I would not be where I am today with this project....the knowledge here is superb..I raised 5 boys, did pretty much all the wrenching on my vehicles and their's when they were still home,..but working on 70's and 80's and 90's stuff is quite a bit different than this old 40's... Tom, I will definitely check out the S10 wiper motor recommendation...that's about as helpful a reply back as anyone could have provided...many thanks.. Steve.
  10. 46 P15 Vacuum wiper linkage connection to vacuum motor

    Hello Mack, thanks for the reply back,...no, I've got no V8, mines still a stock 218 as well,...I went ahead and took the motor apart, it was full of dried grease, cleaned it all up,....the external parts that were froze up, were the connectors that attach the motor to the linkage arms, (they wouldn't spin), biggest issue I have now, is that the parking/sealing washer (located on the internal paddle) was starting to fray apart. So I drilled out the rivet and removed it. Need to replace that thin little piece and can't for the life of me decide what would be the best thing to use....whats gonna hold up and last....I'd like to keep it simple and just use the same thing as original, but no one in internet land seems to know what the original material was. It's usually referred to as the leather exhaust washer, or the parking washer...however it looks like some kind of a canvas material....this thin (.010) material is what the vacuum from your intake manifold pulls against 100% of the time when your not using your wipers....so it's what's prevents you from having a vacuum leak condition associated with the vacuum wipers...I've been reading about epdm, nioprine, etc...looks like I could find a suitable washer from a rebuild kit for just about any kind of vacuum wiper, but they seem to be hard to track down, sorta like hen's teeth.....:)
  11. 46 P15 Vacuum wiper linkage connection to vacuum motor

    after posting this, I found some pics on here from past posts that do show rubber grommets, it even gave a part number for the grommets through a site called Collectorsautosupply, and listed a part # 1239271as being correct for multiple years of Mopar, however then the info appears to have been retracted as a disregard, stating that the grommet changed in yr 1949...?? another thing I learned after finding the past post referenced above, is that the hex shaped brass looking linkage connectors that the linkage arms attach to, are supposed to swivel,...mine we're froze tight,....so with a little pb blaster soaking, one spins freely as it should, the other is turning - however the entire rivet, hex nut and clip connection area is all turning, not just the hex nut spinning on the shaft as it should, like connector #1....I rigged up a way to let the connector #2 soak in a thimble full of pb blaster, to continue to try and free it up. Not sure, now that the shaft itself is turning, and if I can get the hex nut to freely spin - how critical it will be to try and get that shaft to remain stationary again, oh well, one thing at a time I suppose. again any and all replys are welcome and appreciated. Steve
  12. Working my way through either rebuilding the vacuum motor or replacing with a Newport electric wiper motor setup. Question please regarding the vacuum motor and linkage I pulled out from under the dash of this car, (see 2ea pics attached).. The main wiper drive arm coming off the motor (approx. 2" and "V" shaped) has 2ea small brass, hexagon shaped, connectors that look like a normal brass nut that's riveted solid in place on each end of the arm. Each connector also has a nipple with a groove on the top side that accepts a clip that prevents each linkage arm from falling off. The ends of each linkage arm have nothing but a round 7/16 hole in them. Would I be correct in assuming that there should be a rubber grommet for the hole in each linkage arm ? Also trying to rule out the possibility of these not being oem linkage arms, etc...my parts book isn't helping me answer this, as it has the wiper assembly pretty much lumped all together under a different mopar part number. The part numbers I see on the arms are as follows: passenger side shows the number 205 and also a part # 7862612, driver side shows the number 206 and also a part # 7862512. These look to be TRICO part numbers, and doing a quick internet search on them brought back nothing. So far in dis-assembling this car, it has proven to be all original - so I guess the odds are in my favor that these are the correct parts - but quickly as I type that out here in this post, I am reminded of what the director of engineering once told me,,...that being - Steve - you know what assume stands for don't you ? what ? guaranteed to make an a## out of you and me.. thanks for the help and direction with this. Steve.
  13. P15 dash install / rattle prevention tips / help

    thanks for all the reply's back... found and ordered this off of amazon today, Colorplast Black High Heat Chemical resistant Rattle and Squeak prevention tape.....$9.95 free shipping, high heat = 125C, 1.2mm thick 19 mm wide, 5 meter roll. Looks almost dead on in material and size as to what I found when I took things apart...
  14. P15 dash install / rattle prevention tips / help

    Barefooting
  15. Wondering if some of you builders out there who have had your P15 dash removed, might be able to help me in preventing the potential for rattles, rubbing, etc.. I should be putting the dash back in the 46 Club Coupe project soon. When I remove parts I like to try and do as thorough a bag-n-tag job as possible as my memory is only a fraction of what it used to be In looking back at my removed parts bin, I found my little Tupperware bucket marked front window trim, from 3yrs ago - with the note and pieces you see in attached pic #1. The two ea black rubber type spacers are looking pretty crumbly - might be able to carve some new ones if I can find a suitable material, if anyone knows of a re-pop on this part - that would of course be great as well...anyway - per my note you see in the pic. I show them going between the dash and the trim along with the white piping cord - on the bottom edge of the garnish molding. What I failed to do was document where the thin, 5ea., pads (kinda looks like a canvas material), were at. Since I didn't include it in my trim drwg., I believe these pieces went underneath the dash, around the screw holes across the top of the dash, between the dash and the metal support underneath. ?? This stuff is too far gone to reuse, so one way or another I'll need to find good replacement materials for the canvas and rubber pieces....so if you've been there and done it - your tips or help would be most welcome. Not really so crazy about trying to be original, even though that's OK, mostly just looking for good lasting results in regards to preventing rubbing and rattling. One thing I noticed, in searching the internet looking for pictures, maybe an exploded dash drwg diagram, etc...was that many of the P15 dash pictures I saw seemed to show piping sticking out on both sides of the window trim, others looked to have piping all the way around the window,...etc.. With the window trim being easily removed, I suppose I could experiment a bit in getting it mounted up nice and snug,...but I'm thinking it would be nice to get the dash mounted correctly the 1st time. thanks in advance, all reply's welcome and appreciated. Steve
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