Tommy

I have the big block in my '41. It was installed by the PO. It fits in pretty easy, but may require you to notch the front crossmember for clearance. Mine was installed without notching, but I sure wish they had. If you ever plan on installing accessories that require a second fan belt, such as A/C, you must notch it. Plan on moving your radiator forward to clear the fan. In fact, plan on having a new radiator as the old one likely will not fit in the new location.

Correct. I am assuming the bowls are distorted from repeatedly being overtightened over the years. The carb body itself may also be warped.

I have just about given up on my Holley 1920s I have installed on my 251. Can't get them to stop leaking. I also have no faith that I can find other Holley 1920s that won't have the same issue. I hope i can find something to replace them that won't require the complete re-enginnering of the fuel delivery/ throttle linkage I currently have installed. Suggestions?

I'm curious about the compatibility of the mid-50's power steering assemblies with earlier models. Has anyone attempted to use 50's components on, say, a 1940's Plymouth?

When I pulled the leaky Holley 1920's for my P12 I noticed that the PO had used gobs of sealant around the float bowl gaskets. The car is equipped with a 6V electric fuel pump mounted in the rear near the tank. What it doesn't have is a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure what pressure the pump is putting out, but I am sure it is more than necessary by a considerable amount. I have decided to install a FPR with a gauge. I hate to cut up the purdy hard fuel lines to install it, but I hate fuel leaking on the exhaust manifold a lot more. I am guesstimating that around 6 psi would be about right? TIA

Pulled my leaky Holley 1920s off my 41 P12 yesterday. I got a better look at the intake. It is marked Nicson Engineering. I have never heard of them. This is for the 25" motor. I also have attached a pic of the Champion radiator installed in the 41. Really made a difference.

Anybody going today?

Tried the starter bump method. On th 4th or 5th try, I got a big "THUMP". Stuck no more! Works like a champ. Thanks to all who replied. You guys rock!

Rocking it didn't work. My try the bump start next. Already pulled the coil wire. :-)

Thanks for the idea. I'll give it a try tomorrow after church.

My 41 coupe has been sitting for a couple of months while I sorted out the radiator issues. Got that resolved today. Now the clutch is stuck from sitting. Pedal moves fine, linkage seems OK and I can move the clutch fork with a pry bar, so i don't think that is the problem- I think the disc is stuck. Ideas and suggestions welcome.

I'm running Holley 1904's from the early 60's Ford Falcon on my 251. Starts and runs flawlessly. I had thought about switching to a pair of progressive two barrels to gain a bit more go, but the thing runs so great I changed my mind.

The front sheet metal on the 41 tapers more rapidly than on the later model. It would require cutting not just the flange but the body metal, too.

Since the motor was replaced with a later model 25" block, the stock radiator won't fit. The new radiator will have to mounted on the front side of the original bracket and tuck up under the front sheet metal.

The previous owner of my 1941 P12 mounted a later model Mopar radiator 4" from the fan, which will not cut it here in Key Largo. I originally planned on using a 2" fan spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. I finally decided to do it right the first time. I pulled out the old radiator and mounts installed by the PO. Spoke with Jeff at Champion Radiator. It looks like the unit out of a '69 Mustang may work. Anyway, having the radiator out of the way allowed me to get a better look at the front of the motor and the front cross member. The car is fitted with a later model 25" motor and I was curious about any modifications that were made to accommodate the larger engine. As you can see in the pictures, there is not a lot of room between the crank pulley and the front cross member- around 1". Since I plan to install A/C in the future, I'll need to install a double pulley on the crankshaft. I think I'll have enough room to install the pulley, but just barely. Haven't figured out if there would be enough room to get the belts on, though. :/ Looks like I'll never get that crank pulley off without raising/removing the engine.

Oh, hell yes.

Send Tim a PM. He can hook you up with AoK products.

Thanks, that would be a great help!

I'd love to get more info on the A/C compressor/alternator brackets.

Thanks. I found a spacer made by flex-a-lite that they claim will fit early Mopars. If the cap screws line up, I should be able to modify it to fit over the pump shaft.

Anyone using a fan spacer? If so, which one? The water pump shaft on my 251 looks to be 1". Most of the spacers i see are only for a 5/8" shaft.

Grumble... Nothing is ever simple. I can't just use a spacer behind the fan- the fan would strike the cross brace in picture #2. The radiator is 26" deep. I can't move the radiator back as the bottom tank will strike the front cross member- pics # 4 & 5. A 23-24" OAL radiator would fit over the front crossmember but I lose cooling capacity. I may have to toss my pretty chrome fan and mount an electric fan behind the radiator. I don't really want to do that.

H-m-m-m.... Summit sells a 2" spacer. Not ideal but worth a shot. That and a shroud might be the ticket. Thanks, Andy.

I plan to do some measuring today. Hoping I can just flip the bracket on the radiator to move it closer to the fan. The bad news is the closest radiator shop is on the mainland, a good 70+ mile round trip. But they might have a better handle on a radiator shroud, which would save an even longer ride to the scrap yard, which may or may not have what I need.

A PO did the installation. The bottom radiator outlet has some type of gooseneck riser on it. Why? I have no idea. I thought he mounted the radiator that far foward to clear the gooseneck, but the pictures show otherwise. I should be able to move it closer to the fan, it is just a matter of the mounting bracket. Adding a pusher fan isn't an option as I plan to add A/C to the car down the road.