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'36 Glasstruck

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Everything posted by '36 Glasstruck

  1. Hi all, I thought I would post this as a separate topic from my truck thread. I've heard of doing this and read of folks saying they've done it, but have not found an actual thread outlining how to do it. One of the original plans with my truck was to lower the front (if possible) to give it a kind of a hot rod raked stance. I wasn't sure if I was actually going to do it, but since I have the axle off to do the king pins and freshen up the steering components, I thought this would be as good a time as ever to explore the topic. I was thinking of lowering it between 2" and 4" depending on what changes or sacrifices have to be made. To the folks that have actually done this or have experience with it. Is it worth it? Will it accomplish what I want or just make it ride like crap? And if removing leafs to make the truck sit lower is a viable option, which leafs would you/should I remove? There are 7 total, which IMO, seems like plenty for a truck like this. Also, as a side note: changing the axle to a dropped aftermarket or adding non-original/ford spindles, machining mods, etc is not an option. I'll just not lower it if I can't do it this way. If there are other Dodge spindles that would work on my '36 and make it sit lower, I would take a look at that option, however. Experienced input is very much appreciated. Thanks
  2. '36 Glasstruck

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    Thanks for the tips and will do. My rear end sits on top of the leafs with about another 1 1/2" of U bolt thread left out the bottom. I figured I could put a spacer between the differential holder thingy and the top of the leaf for about another 1" of drop, coupled with a leaf or two removed, it should work out good. I was over at the HAMB looking at my old thread with a few photos (bf I joined over here) and I took a good look at the photos that I haven't really seen in a while, from when I first got it. The truck actually sits pretty nicely in stock form so I don't think I really need to go down too much further to be where I want to be, which is pretty good news, as to not disrupt the steering ect. Keep in mind it has flat tires in the photo, so it actually sits further off the ground, but I'm referring to how the tires look in the wells etc.
  3. '36 Glasstruck

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    You got it!
  4. '36 Glasstruck

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    Wow, very helpful posts guys! Maybe this thread should end up in the tech section. Not to say my contribution is worthy but the responses are very helpful and the pictures and diagrams great as well. I think I'm going to go ahead with it. I may remove two or three in front and one or two in the rear. I'm going for a borderline radical look. Although one thing that stops me is that I've never ridden in the truck as-is. So I'll never have a basis for comparison of ride quality. Part of me wants to see how it rides first, but the other part of me does not want to tear everything apart again.
  5. '36 Glasstruck

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    Is it best to take from the bottom or remove from the middle or every other one etc? The shorter are probably stiffer but the longer are stronger? Will pulling from the middle and keeping a couple of the shorter ones make for more of a stiff ride rather than pulling, say, the three shortest ones? I have a lot of questions about it. I also didn't realize you had to lube them with teflon etc.
  6. '36 Glasstruck

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    Your truck looks good. One leaf got you 2"? Not bad. Which leaf did you remove? Just right off the bottom? It doesn't seem like too much trouble really. Is the silicone so they do not squeak when put back together? I"m going for noticable rake. I will probably leave the rear alone. Or maybe 2" rear 4" front? Hmmm.
  7. Hello I'm new to the forum so this is also my intoduction. I'm Patrick. I'm the third owner of a 1936 dodge LC pickup. I bought the truck last September. The truck had been sitting since 1974. 20 years inside and 20 years outside. The truck is in "running when parked" condition so that was a real plus for me. I understand it was a daily driver that was simply parked when the owner bought a bigger truck. When I bought it the motor was stuck. I got it unstuck a year ago and got it running yesterday. I put fresh oil in it, disassembled and cleaned the carb, filed the points and checked the gap, put new plugs in it, fresh gas, new battery and with a little work it fired up yesterday. Im very pleased and excited to get it running however after running it for about 15 minutes it continues to smoke white smoke very badly. Its not the white dissipating kind. It fills up the whole neighborhood. The motor seems to purr really well but Im unsure what is causing the smoke and which direction to go from here. Any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the truck.
  8. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Not to sure. I guess beause it was lead. In hindsight, I probably could have just re-wetted it back in, but I wanted to try brazing. It actually looked better, but then I was paranoid that it may leak in a couple spot, so I went around trying to touch it up, and it kind of snowballed from there. I think it will be alright though.
  9. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Yes it was due to all the stuff I dumped down the engine in order to free it up. Now its kind of a build/ or get it driving thread because I didn't see the need to start a new thread.
  10. '36 Glasstruck

    King pin removal

    Very helpful thread as I'm about to do my king pins. One thing I keep reading about is heat though...the manual clearly states not to heat up your axle or spindle. These components are tempered steel and should not be heated with a torch. It can weaken the steel. I'm going to try like heck to avoid having to put heat to my spindles or axle.
  11. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Painted with rustoleum zinc galvanizing paint. Might be kind of how it looked when new? It did look to be galvanized before it was acid dipped. Anyhow I had it laying around so what the heck.
  12. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Patched it with a penny. Now at least its worth $.01.
  13. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Hole they have to drill when dipping
  14. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Ugly brazing I know- but I think it will seal
  15. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Theres before, but it won't let me upload after.
  16. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Its also been suggested to me that I seal the inside of my fuel tank just to be on the safe side. For those who have done that, is there a specific kit or procedure that you would recommend?
  17. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    I'm not sure the wheel cylinders are going to be savable. If they look anything like that master cylinder did, whew, not good at all. I'll take them off and give them a closer look. And come to think of it now, I believe the rear ones do have an adapter in them already. I noticed something screwy when I was looking at how they were attached to the rear lines. Hmm.
  18. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    I took the fuel tank in to have it acid dipped. Turned out great. Man that is the way to go. I then brazed (rookie brazer) the filler neck onto the tank because it was starting to come apart from where it was sealed with lead. I then repainted it with zinc galvanized style paint. I will post some pics. I have also been in contact with Vic from Vic's Dodge Garage in Corvalis. Wow, what a friendly and helpful guy. He is going to source every single thing I need for my brakes including new lines. If anyone is on the west coast and needs parts, I highly suggest contacting Vic. He is passionate about the hobby, so much so that he is going to personally come down and pick up my old lines, to make sure exact duplicates come out correctly. I'm also going to have him give my truck a once-over beause he seems like a guru. I was cleaning out the 80 years of gunk from my backing plates and spindles, preparing for the brake job, and noticed my passenger side king pin is way too loose to not replace so I guess I will do a set of those. So I went on ebay and was lucky enough to find an exact size .797 ream/bushing installer and purchased it tonight. I'm feeling pretty confident on the kingpin, job, however I wasn't originally planning on doing it. One thing though, there isn't instuctions in my 34-36 master maintenance manual or my 1940 Chilton on king pin removal and installation, which I think is odd? Was king pin removal and installation just assumed to be common knowledge back in the old days? I think I can do it, but I really like having some reference instructions to fall back on. Not too many pertinent video on Youtube either. Also, I was thinking of buying a set of NORS king pins from ebay, as opposed to a brand new mystery manufacturer set. What is the general consensus on that topic?
  19. '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Thanks for the welcome. I didn't mean to leave everyone hanging who contributed to the thread I'm afraid I won't be in Portland before I need the seals. Is there a good online source? I see a listing on ebay for a seal kit, that includes a pinion seal (which my truck has needed for a very long time as seen by the oil fling on the underside of the bed). The listing says its for a '36 cars but sure looks like it would work on my truck. It includes inner and outer axle seals, pinion seal and differential cover gasket.
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