'36 Glasstruck

Theres before, but it won't let me upload after.

Its also been suggested to me that I seal the inside of my fuel tank just to be on the safe side. For those who have done that, is there a specific kit or procedure that you would recommend?

I'm not sure the wheel cylinders are going to be savable. If they look anything like that master cylinder did, whew, not good at all. I'll take them off and give them a closer look. And come to think of it now, I believe the rear ones do have an adapter in them already. I noticed something screwy when I was looking at how they were attached to the rear lines. Hmm.

I took the fuel tank in to have it acid dipped. Turned out great. Man that is the way to go. I then brazed (rookie brazer) the filler neck onto the tank because it was starting to come apart from where it was sealed with lead. I then repainted it with zinc galvanized style paint. I will post some pics. I have also been in contact with Vic from Vic's Dodge Garage in Corvalis. Wow, what a friendly and helpful guy. He is going to source every single thing I need for my brakes including new lines. If anyone is on the west coast and needs parts, I highly suggest contacting Vic. He is passionate about the hobby, so much so that he is going to personally come down and pick up my old lines, to make sure exact duplicates come out correctly. I'm also going to have him give my truck a once-over beause he seems like a guru. I was cleaning out the 80 years of gunk from my backing plates and spindles, preparing for the brake job, and noticed my passenger side king pin is way too loose to not replace so I guess I will do a set of those. So I went on ebay and was lucky enough to find an exact size .797 ream/bushing installer and purchased it tonight. I'm feeling pretty confident on the kingpin, job, however I wasn't originally planning on doing it. One thing though, there isn't instuctions in my 34-36 master maintenance manual or my 1940 Chilton on king pin removal and installation, which I think is odd? Was king pin removal and installation just assumed to be common knowledge back in the old days? I think I can do it, but I really like having some reference instructions to fall back on. Not too many pertinent video on Youtube either. Also, I was thinking of buying a set of NORS king pins from ebay, as opposed to a brand new mystery manufacturer set. What is the general consensus on that topic?

Thanks for the welcome. I didn't mean to leave everyone hanging who contributed to the thread I'm afraid I won't be in Portland before I need the seals. Is there a good online source? I see a listing on ebay for a seal kit, that includes a pinion seal (which my truck has needed for a very long time as seen by the oil fling on the underside of the bed). The listing says its for a '36 cars but sure looks like it would work on my truck. It includes inner and outer axle seals, pinion seal and differential cover gasket.

Tomorrow's payday, so I'm going to pick up a couple things so I can stay motivated and keep progressing on the truck. I"m not sure whether to start at the master cylinder and work my way to the wheels or vise versa? I know for a fact that one rear axle needs a new seal as it was oily in and behind one brake hub. The other side looks good, but might as well do both. So maybe I'll start there, move on to the shoes and wheel cylinders, and work my way up the lines to the master cylinder. Does anybody have a good place to order the rear axle seals? I'm also going to see about taking the fuel tank in to have it cleaned. I was wondering about a home diy procedure for cleaning out the inside of the tank, but Its really bad inside, so maybe getting it dipped is the best solution. The old gasoline has formed kind of a kerosene smell and a black gritty texture inside. Not something that is easy to just rinse out I think.

Hi all, I'm back and I still have the truck! Sorry for the long absence. The new site format looks great!! It took a minute to find my thread. I have other hobbies and very one-track mind. It seems I can only immerse myself in one hobby at a time. I'm also a musician, and have been very into bass playing for the last 5 years. Since last posting I've been in 4 bands, changed jobs, sold and bought a house, and had a baby...but I've started on the truck project again. The truck has been living quietly and untouched in my garage since I've last posted. I've recently pulled the gas tank off and I'm taking it in to have it acid dipped next week I hope. I tred testing the sending unit with my multi-meter set to ohms. Its a one-wire sending unit and I'm not sure where to put the other lead from the multi-meter. I put one lead on the connection, and one to ground and did see some movement on the readout as I moved the arm up and down. Maybe it will still work but we'll see. Also, I tried to take out the fuel pickup tube, but I'm not sure its supposed to come out. There is a copper fitting that looks to be directly connected to the tube inside, that is screwed into at 3/4 size nut. I got the nut to spin, but it doesn't seem to want to screw out of the tank. Almost like it's press-fit. I should have left that part alone. Now the 3/4 nut turns, but not the like its going to come out.....more like its now going to leak in the future. I also pulled the brake hubs off. The front shoes actually look great, but I should probably still buy new, as I'm not sure how well the linings are still adhered. They're 1960's replacements I assume, as they are not riveted on. I'm having a dilemma on where to buy my new parts. I've checked with Kanter, DCM Classics, Oldmoparts, Roberts Motor Parts, Ebay, and my new find, Vic's Dodge Garage, which crazy enough is in Corvalis Oregon, only about 30 miles north of me. That will hopefully be a godsend. He offers full brake line reproduction kits. But as far as shoes, cylinders, hoses etc, it seems everyone has almost everything, but no one has everything I need for a one-stop-shop, except for that kit on ebay from mopar-direct, which is far too expensive. I need lines, shoes, cylinders, master cylinder, rubber hoses, maybe junctions, and two new seals for the rear axle. One for sure, but might as well do both. Money is tight so progress may be slow, but I'm older, wiser, sober, and feeling much more confident about working on this truck. I will post updates, along with a few photos of the process. I was thinking of starting a new build thread, or changing the title of this thread, but I'm not sure I have the option.

Hi everyone. Just to update the thread. I'm in the proccess of saving up for the brake job. I believe I will replace everything and buy all new. I'm not sure if there is a local place that can refurbish the brake shoes. I will definitely look into the copperized lines. I'm a little weary of setting the brakes as I've read that it's very tricky. If I can, I will try to buy an Ammco brake tool off ebay. I plan to keep the truck stock regarding brakes, 6v wiring, charging system, ignition ect. I mean why not? The truck is complete. Might as well work with what is there. It did the job then. I have a lot of work ahead of me. I have not touched the charging system nor do I have any knowledge of it. I will also buy a repro shop manual for the truck off ebay. Also ammeter gauge doesn't seem to be working. Lots sheathing missing of on the wiring etc etc. I will try to get the truck driveable and go from there. I really appreciate all the help and am very glad I joined this great forum.

Hi Brent B3B I am in the Eugene area of Oregon.

Merle and Jeff you both make excellent points. I am jumping the gun on this. You are right, when I was trying to unstick the motor I was dumping so much stuff in that oil was even leaking out of the exaust pipe. There is probably a lot that needs to be burned out requiring more than an hour of idle running. Unfortunately the truck is not driveable due to the brakes. The brake pedal is stuck and one drum was seized as well. Im afraid a whole new brake system is in order. Perhaps I should start another thread on the brakes. Any pointers on massaging a brake system back to life?

Im going to run the truck again tomorrow for a while and see what happens. After running it again I will check the compression once it cools back down. I am not noticing any water in the oil or drop in coolant level. I do not have any anti-freeze in it right now. Just straight water. In theory the headgasket should be good, as I understand it was a fine runner when parked. Im wondering if I busted a piston ring when I freed the engine or have a stuck valve or bad valve seals due to deterioration? Im not sure. But it does run really nice which is also kind of odd if it has some semi-serious internal problems. I was wondering if anyone with a similar experience could shed some light? Someone who got a motor running that sat for a long period of time?

I ran the truck again tonight. Made sure the oil was full first. It seemed to smoke a little less at idle but really smokes when I rev it. It smokes out the tail pipe and the lower breather tube. Not the oil fill tube though. There is no blow-by coming out the top oil fill tube whatsoever. The smoke I would say is white with a very faint blue tint. I ran it for about 25 minutes also running a bottle of Mystery oil through the carb before I shut it down. I'll let it sit overnight and see how it goes tomorrow. I hope the smoking can tame down because I'm really amazed at how good it runs. Even the initial start up was only a few revolutions and a little choking and it took right off. No odd engine noises to be heard. It really purrs.

Thanks Reg. I will do. I am going to run it again today after work. I figured about a half hour to get it up to temperature and see if it gets better. Either way I will do the Marvel Mystery oil trick before I shut it down. Thank you all again for the help!

Here are some more pictures of the truck. Sorry about the so-so lighting. I also have the hood which is in nice shape. The truck is 100% complete minus the spare wheel. My plans with the truck are to keep it original and get it into daily-driver shape. I plan to scotchbrite the body smooth, put a lot of turtle wax on it and drive it as is. I also threw around the idea of giving it a slight rake suspension-wise for a more commanding stance. But thats another thread and another day.

Thanks for the replies! To unstick the engine I poured engine oil, some diesel fuel, a can of seafoam and a bottle of mystery oil over the course of about a month. I would go out every couple days and rock the truck back and forth in second gear. Eventually I got some movement and then more ect. until it turned easily. After the motor was free I drained the oil pan and added new oil. I did check the compression before I tried starting it. I got about 95psi on every cylinder but #2 and #5 where I only got about 60psi. This was a dry test. I then put oil in each cylinder (which if I understand is kind of cheating) and with the oil test I was getting 120psi in most cylinders. I'll try and get some more pictures up soon. Edit: Yes the fuel tank is very varnished inside. I used an external fuel tank to run the engine.

Hello I'm new to the forum so this is also my intoduction. I'm Patrick. I'm the third owner of a 1936 dodge LC pickup. I bought the truck last September. The truck had been sitting since 1974. 20 years inside and 20 years outside. The truck is in "running when parked" condition so that was a real plus for me. I understand it was a daily driver that was simply parked when the owner bought a bigger truck. When I bought it the motor was stuck. I got it unstuck a year ago and got it running yesterday. I put fresh oil in it, disassembled and cleaned the carb, filed the points and checked the gap, put new plugs in it, fresh gas, new battery and with a little work it fired up yesterday. Im very pleased and excited to get it running however after running it for about 15 minutes it continues to smoke white smoke very badly. Its not the white dissipating kind. It fills up the whole neighborhood. The motor seems to purr really well but Im unsure what is causing the smoke and which direction to go from here. Any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the truck.