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37silverstreak

Members
  • Content count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 37silverstreak

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/15/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sheboygan Falls Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Antique radios and early television sets. old cars, reading, great lakes maritime history, woodworking.
  • My Project Cars
    1926 Chrysler G70, 1937 Pontiac 6 4dr touring sedan and a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe sedan.

Converted

  • Location
    Sheboygan Falls, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Antique radio/ tv, woodworking, old engines

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    service technician

Recent Profile Visitors

226 profile views
  1. 37silverstreak

    P15 positive ground point question

    I was just wondering where the original ground point for the positive battery cable was on the P15 engine? My car has a 1950 engine installed and its ground point was a special tapped head bolt. I have all new head bolts and I don't really want to reuse the old one so I'm looking for a new place to attach the ground cable. Thanks!
  2. 37silverstreak

    Head bolt questions

    Hey everyone, Thank you for the input! Here is an update and hopefully a last question. I have a new set of correct head bolts and was able to remove one of the broken bolts with a stud removal tool. The other one was not so easy as it broke off near the base of the block and It just wouldn't come out. So, I filed it flush and with a lot of care I now have a 1/4 inch pilot hole drilled down the center of the bolt, so I'm making progress. My question is, should I try drilling it out and tap the hole for the 7/16 bolt or do I just go ahead and install a Heli-coil?
  3. 37silverstreak

    Head bolt questions

    Thanks for the tip! I Googled the part number and Summit Racing carries them. I just ordered a set, comes to just over $1.00 a bolt with shipping. Thanks again for your input.
  4. 37silverstreak

    Head bolt questions

    Hey everyone, I decided to pull the head on my '48 Plymouth, just because I just don't seem to have enough frustration in my life, and also to check for carbon buildup, cylinder condition etc. This car hasn't been started since 1995 so I've been going through it before trying to bring her back to life. Anyway, two of the head bolts broke off. One near the top of the head and another at the base of the block, so now I have the fun of removing them!!! My questions are. 1. Can I reuse the old head bolts? I planned on cleaning them up and running a tap and die on them and the holes in the block. No matter what I'm going to need at least two replacements. 2. If not, where can I buy replacements? There is a seller on Ebay offering a set of new headbolts but wants $87 bucks plus shipping which works out to about $4.50 a bolt which seems high to me. 3. Would the head bolts from a truck engine be the same as the car engines. Again, there's a seller on Ebay selling a set of used headbolts from a same era truck engine. Any input is always greatly appreciated, thanks!
  5. 37silverstreak

    Water pump bolt head snapped off

    Hey guys, I got the broken bolt out of the block today! Once I got the water pump off, there was enough of the bolt sticking out that I was able to get a stud remover onto it. I soaked the heck out of the bolt with PB Blaster for a week and it came right out. I think the bolt was seized more in the water pump as I had quite a time getting the pump off of that bolt than anything. Thanks to all of you for your input, I really appreciate it! Kevin
  6. 37silverstreak

    Philco radio model 802

    Most old stock vibrators will still need to have their contacts cleaned if you can find one. You can try the alternating current trick but I have been opening up the vibrator can, removing the unit and carefully cleaning the contacts with De-oxit. and replacing any bad lead wires, then reinstalling in the can. You can also buy a new solid state vibrator, but unlike the original ones, they are polarity sensitive so make sure you get one that is positive grounded! One note on the solid state units. I have had limited success with them. It worked in the 1949 Packard radio I rebuilt, but when I tried one in the Mopar 802 I just restored I had trouble with it providing enough voltage for the set. I ended up repairing the original vibrator that was in the radio and it has been working fine so far. I would also highly recommend replacing all the capacitors in the radio, especially the high voltage buffer cap in the power supply. they are almost always leaky.
  7. 37silverstreak

    Water pump bolt head snapped off

    Just wondering if anyone here had any tips/ tricks for removing a broken bolt from a block? I was removing the water pump from my '48 Plymouth today and the head snapped off the second bolt I was trying to remove- GRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance! Kevin
  8. 37silverstreak

    Stock wheel width and back spacing

    '46 and '47 Plymouth used 6.00/15 tires and then went to 6.70/15 in 1948.
  9. 37silverstreak

    1951 Plymouth/Dodge Gas Tank

    I bought a new tank for my '48 Plymouth from this same seller and it was an excellent copy. Fitted right in, no problems at all.
  10. 37silverstreak

    Window sweeper question

    Does anyone have any tips on how they installed new window sweepers on their window frames? I'm starting to regrain my dash and window frames and will be installing new sweepers on them. I see the old ones appear to be stapled on with these huge staples!. Thanks! Kevin
  11. 37silverstreak

    Proper Speaker Ohms

    I'm restoring the radio in my '48 Plymouth which is a Philco C4608. It was missing the speaker but I was able to find an original one on Ebay . I'm not sure about a 1939 model but my radio uses a 4ohm voice coil and I think the field coil was about 3 ohms. You can use a P.M. style speaker, The field coil is only used to provide the magnetism for the voice coil. Most old home radios would utilize the field coil as part of the B+ power supply so you couldn't easily adapt those but it will work fine for an auto radio. Good luck! Kevin
  12. 37silverstreak

    dash control removal tool

    The tool I remember seeing was more like a hollow tube with two prongs on the end that fit into the slots on the retainer, but your idea will work. I'll see what I can come up with, thanks! Kevin
  13. 37silverstreak

    dash control removal tool

    Hey guys, I'm trying to remove the heater switch from the panel cluster on my 48 Plymouth. I thought I saw a picture of the tool on here somewhere but can't find it. Does anyone know if this tool is available anywhere or what can I use to remove the escutcheon with out damaging the finish? Thanks! Kevin
  14. 37silverstreak

    1941 Chrysler C28 Wiring Harness

    I've bought 2 wiring harnesses from YnZ's The first for my 1937 Pontiac and one for my 48 Plymouth. Both are excellent quality and I had no problems installing on my Pontiac. I am in the process of rewiring my 48 Plymouth right now. I pulled the dash from my Plymouth to make it easier and also to woodgrain it. I left the dash in my Pontiac when I rewired it and it was a lot more tedious craning your head under the dash to see where things go. Other than that I didn't find it to be overly difficult to do. Just take lots of reference photos or make drawings. Good luck with your project! Kevin
  15. 37silverstreak

    48 Plymouth dash removal question

    Hey, thanks guys! I bit the bullet this morning and gave it a shot, and the dash actually came out easier than I expected! This will make wood graining and rewiring a lot easier, thanks for your input! Kevin
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