eddie27

The manual calls for SAE 160 for the transmission and hypoid 110 powerful EP for the rear end...... What I was asking was what are modern equivalents? Further I was asking if anyone that uses similar oils noticed any differences in the oil brands and or weights they have used.

edit

Could you all give me some suggestions on the engine and gear oil (transmission and rear axle) I should use in a 37 Plymouth. My dad is going to drive her from Ohio to Florida and I want to change all the fluids before he leaves.

I wonder if he is just a car parts scammer.... He might get on all kinds of forums and say... I have what you are looking for.... Send me $150 and I will ship it to you.

No I didn't. I should have let him call me. Phone number might have been easier to trace than an email.

Just emailed him again.... Richard, Still waiting on your reply. I can be in your area around noon. Come on Richard (or should I call you Dick?)… I don’t have all day. Chris

My reply to him... I'll bet he turns this down quickly NICE!!!! Just had a thought. Belle Vernon isn’t too far from here. I can just drive over and pick it up tomorrow and pay with cash. What is your address? Chris

Ha..... This is the photo he sent me. Looks like NOS for a 37 Plymouth, don't you think?

The email address is richardautoshop34@gmail.com Don't know a tracker that works with gmail, hotmail, yahoo etc email addresses.

I doubt he is there.... Might not even be in the country. From what i understand these people make their living by going to all kinds of forums like this one and find want ads and reply to them. If they can get one person a day to send them $100- $200, it turns into a pretty profitable scam. Wish there was a way to track the emails and have them arrested.

Although I knew he was a fake as soon as I saw the words Western Union... I did try to look up the business but also found nothing. From Robin's post it seems he is using different names and probably emails. I only posted this because I don't want to see this loser get one cent from anyone here.

I wasn't sure where to post this. I just wanted to make sure it was seen by all. Mods feel free to move this anywhere you want. I recently posted a want ad for flywheel / clutch cover in the classified section here. On Monday I got a reply from a Richard Claycomb as follows: Please let me know if you are still in need of the above and I'll get back to you. What's your phone # ? Many thanks, Richard Claycomb Richard Auto Shop, Belle Vernon, PA 15012 USA. I replied back saying I was interested and to email me the specifics and yesterday I got this: Hi Chris, Thanks for writing, I have a 37 P4 flywheel / clutch cover for sale in excellent condition and shape. I am asking a $150 shipped. Asking price includes shipping via UPS or FedEx which ever you prefer, and l'll accept payment via Western union or Moneygram. What's your complete shipping address ? Thanks, Richard I asked for a photo and today I got another reply.... I do not have a photo of the cover but not to worry on condition as is excellent. Let me know and get back to me with your complete shipping address . Thanks, Richard For those who don't know, Western Union and Moneygram are untraceable and usually when you use them you end up losing your money. Please be careful when sending money to anyone using these services. I am sure if he sees this he will use a different name and email, but he will always ask money to be sent Western Union and/or Moneygram. I just would hate to see anyone on here get their hard earned money stolen by whoever this SCUMBAG is.

fixed....

OK guys... I found the source of my noise. Attached is photo of the bolts that are loose. Problem is I think there are nuts on the other side of these bolts because they won't tighten. Any way to get in there without dropping the tranny, clutch, etc?

Been following the knock thread started by Joe Flanagan hoping to get an answer to my own knock issue that just started a few weeks ago. The difference in my knock is it get dramatically better (but not completely gone) when I hold the clutch in. It sounds more like something is loose than an actual knock. The thing about noise is that it is very pronounced when the car is first started and if I let it stall out (before it is warmed up) the last few turns of the motor before stopping it get very "clunky." If rev the engine up it seems to go away.