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grey beard

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Everything posted by grey beard

  1. All the truck fuel senders I've ever seen secure with a 3-tab lock ring. This is fairly common in the industry. My own Dodge is a '48, and this is how it is arranged. The larger truck tanks I have dropped all have similar arramgements. LOL
  2. Wellll , it's a long story. Do a search of roller paint and you can read all about it. There are no telltale marks from the roller, just a little orangepeel here and there, and a little dust that always settles in fresh paint before it cures. Painted this one in my garage - underneath first wife's bedroom - no spraying or airborne paint and no oddor. AND you can do a panel at a time - unlike spraying enamel where you shoot the whole job at one time -- easier for fat old diabetic men, dontcha'knoo?
  3. Godad, You takling cowl clip supports where the two rivets rust out? I cut outr all the fender rust, migged in new metal, and weldded in place carriage bolts after I polished the writing off the heads. I also welded new 3/8-inch bolts facing down on the fender brackdts, so that when I reinstalled the nose, they just dropped into the cowl brackets and I was abled to redinstall the locks and bolts from the bottom side. Fenders still look original and it'll never rust through in my lifetime. I also use rattle-can becd liner for my undercoating on all this stuff after I prime it with epoxy primer - it'll outlast me. And, by the bye, the paint you see in this photo was done with a four-inch foam rollerr. Ask me why . . . . . . Good Luck
  4. Howcy Mr. Elk, I used ABS pameling from Lowes. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets and is white and of course is completely waterproof. One side is smooth and the other is pebble-grained. I painted mine brown with Krylon plastic paint. Now it is easy to touch up if it ever gets camaged. Mine has been in use for about three years. The original stuff was pasteboard, ancd deteriorated rapidly due to moisture. The headliners sagged ancd the trim panels wore through at the latch handles and window cranks. This stuff is easy to use and looks nice when finished. I put door edgde trim molding on mine to hide the raw-cut edges of the fiberglass. Worked for me. If any of you guys contemplate doing this, I recommend you also buy "peel-n-seal" roof gutter material that is butyl rubber - comes n rolls and sticks down on all your sheetmetal under your trim panels, headliner and floor mats. It is excellent sound deadner and is also sold at Lowes. On the roof under the headliner I also put foiil-faced bubble-wrap made to insulate A/C ducts in homes. It has foil on both sides and is good heat insulation for roofs and floor panels, etc. Also comes from Lowes - I sound like a salesman, I know, but relly I'm just too cheap to spend the bucks for the quit-ride package. Besides, I like doing it myself. If anyone needs them, I have a full set of patterns for interior panels for a five-window cab that Ill part with for the cost of postage - they're sorta' big. Good Luck,
  5. GoDad, If you look in Doh Bunn's B Seried Dodge book at the factory photos, you will see that all these trucks have the same arrangemjent as your vehicle. When I got mine, the PO had bolted a piece of oak 2 x 4 to the clutch pedall to make 'em even. I got so tired of raising my leg way up to avoid the front seat edge every time I used my brakes that I fabbed up a rubber bumper for the floor board to hit the brake pedal and stop its return at a point about the same as the clutch pedal. This made the truck much more enjoyable to drive. If you do this mod, please know that you must also readjust your master cylinder push rod length - make it shorter - so there is still some amounjt of free play at the top of the pedal travel, once you've established the new stop point for the pedal return. Also, the dust seals on your clutch/brake pedals are designhed to hit the floor each time your pedals are released - they move with the pedals. If you change the stop point for your pedal to return, these seals will no longer work as they were designed, unless you move them up and retain them with a hose clamp so they again hit the floor and seal as they were desiged to do. It is important that every Pilothouse owner realizes there is a grease zerk on ther brtake pedal bsdhing. When it is not lubed regularly the bushing wears out and they are no fun whatsoever to change. P.S. They're all just like yours unless they've been corrected, like mine is.
  6. Read my article on this subject in the Pilot's Knowledge section of this forum.,
  7. By popular request, here are a few pics of my Lowes fiberglass el-cheapo headliner and trim panels - painted with Fusion plastic paint. They're holding up pretty well. Good Luck
  8. Mine's made of fiberglass paneling from Lowes and painted dark brown - used the sam stuff on my kick panels and door panels. It's cheap and should last frorever, JMHO. Good Luck
  9. Mu '48 Pilothouse half ton used to have a 4:56 rear and would only do 50 mph down hill with a tail wind. Now I have a 3:56 differential center section from a '48 Windsor. That swap made all the difference in the world, and now I can stay with local traffic on interstate roads. My tires are tall - 215-86x16's on stock truck rims with no tubes, and are about 29 inches tall. I couldn't be more pleased with the end result of the rear end swap. If anyone attempts this gear swap, you must also use the axles from the donor vehicle that fit the side gears. My origihal axles would not go in. Also, I had to keep the same pinion shaft yoke. I put a new seal in before I installed the new lump, and thought I could use my original yoke, but had to change back to the one that came from the donor to keep everytging happy and get the drive shaft to go back into place. Believe me, the difference in top speed was worth all the work. I'm happy!
  10. A few years ago I did my Pilohouse brakes and ordered everything from Andy Bernbumm - got all new shoes - even marked NEW on each shoe - plus wheel cylinders and ms - all still working well after a few thousand miles. These parts are still very much available but you must go to a MoPar parts specialist. Methinks we've outrun NAPA'S reach for an ever-increasing amount of parts that fit our vehicles. My local NAPA guy is a real parts guru and he looks stuff up for me and says, " They got this or that in east Egypt somewhere but that's all the stock the conmputer shows." Pretty soon we'll all be mated at the hip - hip pocket, that is - to the NoPar parts guys in MA. Uggggggghhh!!
  11. I also use dot 5 in my Pilothouse, and have had no issues. Dot 5 fluid, if used in a squeaky-new system - all wheel cylinders, lines and master cylinder - will last a lifetime and likely never need further replacement of hydraulic cojponents. It is used by high-end car makers and seldom ever causes any problems whatsoever EXCEPT whenit is inadvertently mixed with the glycol type 3 or 4 fluids. If you use dot 5, I suggest you have a sign made to place on the firewall - DOT 5 ONLY. jmho
  12. Hey Paul, good to hear fom you again. How ya duin? I have extra wiper parts but mine are all electric. Sorry bout eat . . . Good Luck
  13. Theyre not really a problem. They can come out or go in wirh rhe nose on, as Marvelous Merle has shown us in his video. Front bolts tothe radiator support and rears bolt to a bracket on the frame behind the front axle. Top bolts along the fender edge hold tfe rest. Good Luck
  14. Wow! Shoes to Go Ya - been twistin' wrenches lo these forty-plus years, and have yet to meet a "square" thread., If'n yer meanin those very coarse and pointy sheet metal bolts wuth squarish washers what Dodge used on sheet metal, I've got a whole bunch of hem left from my last fling. Send me your snail and I'll hustle 'em off to ya'. Blessin's
  15. Mack's Auto Parts and Dennis Carpenter, both vendors of early Ford stuff, both carry what yo need. It's nice and fat and easy to install and looks great IMHO. I have it in mine. Good Luck
  16. Wally, That oil nozzle you fabbed for the timing gears is supposed to have an oil orfice in the end - not just a piece of tubing. When I pulled my engine apart this nozzle was plugged solid with sludge and the chain could be removed from the gears with my fingers, but it ran and idled beautifully before pull-down. I also had several broken pistons and had to replace the set, but my cylinders were still fine and the taper was not too bad. My crank is still standard - rods and mains - and everything is going vefy well after more than 2000 miles this past two years. Best thing that ever happened to my truck was the 3:76 rear change from the original 4:56 - wow, what a difference. Good Luck
  17. I scrounged in a junk yard and pulled the covers off of an 87 Ford f 150 - just the upholstery covers. Theh I hog-ringed them over my origihal seat uphoilstery. Cost me only the hog rings. If you try this, don't ask how much for seats. They sell a lot of them. Ask just how much for the upholstery. They crush that stuff every day and rerely sell any. JMHO Good Luci
  18. Kinda' reminds me of that old PA Dutch proverb that sez, "If it ain't worth doing well, it ain't worth duin . . . " Sorta' hurts yer teeth!
  19. Hey Merle, If you still have a complete set of gauge face masters, why not go to any local graphic arts shop and have 'em copy off a coupla' dozen sets. Many of us on this forum would be happy for an opportunity to purchase a set at a fair price. Why, you could make a little money - note the root word "little" - and make a whole buncha' Pilothouse guys and dolls happy folks this Christmas season. Sounds like a "win/win" to me, all around. Merry Christmas Everyone, even if'n it 'ain't politically correct any more.
  20. Hank, Your mention of the rubber piece you saved reminds me of my constant wonder at the factory-designed brake pedal height of Pilothouse trucks. Both the parts book -in the body section - and Don Bunn's B Series Dodge books show the brake pedal height to be several inches higher in prfofile than the clutch pedal. My own truck is just like this. I find it mightily inconvenient to raise my foot so high that it hits the front of the seat, every time I use that brake pedal. I believe the originhal floorboards had some sort of rubber bumper 0 now long-gone - not shown in my parts book - that served to limit the up-travel of these brake pedals. On my list of to-do stuff this winter for my own truck is to fab a rubber stop against which my brake pedal will top out against. - make it the swame height as my clutch pedal. Best I've come up with so far is a rubber block core plug (freeze plug) with a bolt molded into it that I can position just above the pedal arm that will cut down on the top height of the brake pedal about two inches. This will, of course, necessitate some radical re-adjustment of the master cylinder linkage to maintain some free play at the top of the pedal for proper master cylinder action. Shouldn't be a big problem. Sure will make driving this truck a lot more pleasurable to not have to push down on the gear shift to raise my size 13 EEE up high enough to catch that too-high brake pedal. Have any of the rest of you noticed this unequal pedal height? My previous owner had a block of wood on the clutch pedal to make it even with the brake - musta' been a stubby rascal, what? Good Luck,
  21. Merle, Those poor old draff seals likely tore because they had AGE CRACKS in them, from you waiting so long to put 'em on, what? I've seen some guys put 'ej on upside down, not understanding that they belong below the floor board and ride up and down with the pedal. Go figgeff . . . . . . Good luck on the next pair. Mine are in place, but everfy fime I see them, they're half way down the shank. They just don't stay up against the floor board like they should on my trucik. Maybe I'll try hose clamps . . . Good Luck
  22. There is no seal on the front of Dodge truck standard transmissions. Check the parts book. There is a slinger on the input shaft that keeps oil where it belongs, usually, unless they are over-filled. There is one hole below the input shaft in the front of the case for the counter shaft but unless your case is realllllllly worn out, this is not a leakage point.. Many of our transmissions leaki at the back end, and this seal is tough to replace with the trans in the truck. I suggest that no novices try to replace this seal without professional help. I changed mine with the box on the bench, and that's the way I'd recommend the job be tackled. I have new seals on my trans and rear assemblies, and now have no oil leaks on the drive train except for a laking front seal that is brand new. Just love to do those jobs twice . . . Good Luck
  23. Not hard to get ten large in a PIlothouse restoration. Mebby harcer to get seventy five back out of it. MoPar affectionados are notoriously short- armed and deep-pocketed. Good Luck
  24. Senior Fernando, To my best knowledge, there has been no adjustable shocfk absorber made for Didge Pilothouse trucks - that is, unless something of this nature was made for export models destined for countries other than the USA. Our shocks are all tube type, straight mounts. When you purchase new ones here in the US, they are almost invaribly gas-type shocks, for the simple reason that that is all that is made much anymore. In my area, these sell for less than twenty dollars a piece, for all four corners, and they work just fine. Shock absorbers do not carry any weight, nor will they affeft curb ride hight. They simply cancel out the oscillations from the spring, during jounce and rebound action, after hitting a bump. They sure can make a vehicle ride a lot better, when rhey are working as they were intended. O dop't know if I answered your original question about shock absorber adjustment. Sorry if I did not. Good Luck
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