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MBFowler

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MBFowler last won the day on December 28 2018

MBFowler had the most liked content!

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About MBFowler

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hudson Valley of NY
  • Interests
    antique vehicles and farm equipment
    5 string banjo, acoustic guitar
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth P4,48K miles,1949 Dodge 1 ton rack body
    1949 Dodge 2.5ton rack body, 1943 John Deere LI, 1952 John Deere AO

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    ATCA Director-have a 52 1 ton, 36 Plym, and 78 D100 ton along with a couple of JD
  • Occupation
    IT Professional-past tractor trailer driver/music teacher

Converted

  • Location
    Hudson Valley of NY state
  • Interests
    antique vehicles, music, grandkids

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. If you just want rollers, 6 lug Budd's from an IH, or Ford will fit, as will the 16" drop center rims from an IH with the hubcap clips. Later model Dodges used 16.5, and 17 inch rims that will also bolt up. If you want to run duals though, you need the rims with the dual offset. Good luck w your search-they're out there.
  2. I was part of this original thread. I used GM internally regulated alternators on both of my conversions, and 12v coils. I also bypassed the ammeter on my truck due to the added lights. I have a ballast resistor on my heater motors-they've been working fine on both vehicles for years. On the truck, I fused all of the lights, heater, and other accessories individually. Vacuum wipers on both vehicles so no need to do anything there. Good luck.
  3. Make sure that you have a good battery to body ground. The voltage regulator needs a good ground to work properly. Had this problem with one of mine, and you may want to dress the points with some crocus cloth to make sure the contacts are clean. I thought mine was bad, but it ended up being a ground problem.
  4. 7.50's depending on the brand are tight on the duals with almost no space between them-not enough to get a finger between them. . I went w the 7.00's for mine. I used to have pics of the single and dual rims to show the difference, but I can't find 'em.
  5. I think you've got a hanging intake valve if its blowing back through the carb.
  6. I've seen these stuck so bad that they've pushed the valve guide up out of its original position. Still have that engine-truck sat for years outside, but it ran great when it was parked! I bought a 46 2 ton dump a few yrs back. Got a deal on it because it was running on only 5 cyls. When they delivered it he started it on the trailer, I choked it off on MMO and a short time later I heard it clunk. Started it back up-hitting on all 6. Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes the bear bites you.
  7. Not sure, but I think the purpose of the bypass was to let a limited amount of coolant pass through the system when the vehicle was cold. That way the rear cyls wouldn't get overly hot while waiting for the thermostat to open, and you'd have some heat out of the heater if so equipped. I don't believe there was a difference between the two when the thermostats were open. If I'm wrong-someone please correct me.
  8. Give it a shot of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb, and run some in the gas. We've had to do that for years with our flattys-they sit too much.
  9. If you get a rotating variable resistor switch you should be able to control the speed of the fan.
  10. W/o knowing what your actual oil pressure is showing, you may want to look at the lower half of the engine. If this is in a truck, you should be able to remove the pan from under the vehicle.. Jack the truck by the frame and support it on stands with the front suspension hanging and relaxed. That will give you room to drop the pan and check the bottom end.
  11. With any type of valve (dash operated or the under hood petcock type) I think I'd want coolant in the heating circuit-especially if you run antifreeze in your system. That will reduce the probability of corrosion, and since the valve is only on 1 end of the circuit, unless it seals 100% you're probably still going to have coolant in it. I turn mine off under the hood in the spring, and on in the fall. Sometimes over the summer I'll move the valves on all my old stuff so they don't seize up. Just my 2 cents.
  12. Cordell-measure carefully on the 19.5 drop centers. They may not clear the brake drums-especially the inner rears.
  13. I've gotten mine through NAPA, and I think there are a long and short version. Either will bolt up and fit behind the radiator (the long one is a tight fit) but if you're converting to that style from the shorter version, you'll need a pulley with enough offset to line up with the crank and generator pulleys to keep the belt aligned. Mike
  14. I think you're right that it is the thrust pad. What does your pinion look like? I would think it would have to be pretty chewed up to leave those grooves, but I don't understand how it could make contact with the carrier unless the yoke nut was loose. I'd be interested to see what you find.
  15. On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild. Never know when its gonna have to come apart again. I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.
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