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jeffsunzeri last won the day on December 9 2015

jeffsunzeri had the most liked content!

About jeffsunzeri

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Hollister, CA.
  • My Project Cars
    Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler and Imperial from 1941 through 1975.


  • Location
    Hollister, CA.
  • Interests

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  1. Use Irontite now. Stop dicking with the crack. Remove the hose connecting to the heater core when doing the treatment.
  2. Change the condenser and see what happens, if of course, you are running points.
  3. jeffsunzeri

    Amp gauge

    With battery disconnected, what does the ammeter show?
  4. VPW have brand spanking new drums for the 1 tons. They ought to give another 80 years of service or more to the original brake systems.
  5. The standard brakes on the 1 ton axle are really, really good brakes. Discs would be a move backward, IMHO.
  6. I've found it to be something of a weak point on the flatheads. Valve stem lubrication is not the best aspect of these motors. Especially on a new rebuild with tight tolerances, cold, damp weather, and hung valves are fairly common. Generally, after a few hours in service, this will stop happening. Suggestion for now is to get lots of lubrication down the valve stem, removing the head if necessary, so that the stem is not sticking. Check to make sure the spring is not broken. Add an oil additive such as CamGuard which will leave a nice film on the moving parts. You may want to play with oil viscosities a bit to see if that will help.
  7. I have used silicon-bronze with the tig process extensively. It (silicon-broze) has a very narrow application suitability. It is best used for very close tolerance fitting where much of the joint (if not all) derives its strength from the base material, not the brazed joint. Think of it as glue, more than a weld. It has very limited application in repair welds/brazes. It sounds like you DO NOT want to use this on your bellhousing. Standard stick-arc wit appropriate rods should work fine. Just make sure the cooling process does not permit the material to over-harden. This sounds like a job for an experienced welder/fabricator.
  8. Vintage Power Wagons
  9. "trying to figure out if the split exhaust adds any performance or if I would lose torque. " Anything that adds horsepower will increase torque as well. There's a mathematical relationship. The worst you can do is reshape the torque curve. You won't reduce torque.
  10. It is not a drop-in. The engine is heavier, wider than the six. You would be using a PowerFlite transmission? Framework will be needed - welding in new mounts. You should strongly consider going to power steering. The transmission will require new mounts and linkages. This would be a big deal.
  11. "I was also thinking of a front brakes upgrade while I am working on front end. Do you think that's wise?" No. If it were a Chevy or Ford, yes. Their brakes are sub-standard. The brakes on the P15 are excellent, double-leading shoe brakes that perform very, very well especially when you have a modern radial tire on them. Just make sure the brakes are in good working condition and adjust them every 10,000 miles or so and you'll be fine. Discs are easier to maintain, but then so's a Toyota. You don't want a Toyota do you? Also doing an "upgrade" has a number of downsides for very little benefit. Some will say "MY discs saved my life!!! If it weren't for my groovy disc conversion, I'd be implanted in the back of a Peterbilt right now!!" Baloney. Your P15 brakes are excellent as they are.
  12. In my younger days when cash was tight, I ran 2 or 3 different brands of plus in my Plymouth 218. All were the correct heat range and style. Never seemed to make any difference to starting or any other performance characteristic. But AC's did seem to be much cheaper and plentiful than other brands, probably because the Chevy guys used tons of them for their oil burners.
  13. "What should I look for if I have someone turning steering wheel so I can watch under the hood? " You will need to get on the ground as someone works the steering wheel. There is a pitman arm attached to the steering box that translates the steering wheel input into left and right movement. That arm is short and exits from the steering box, and is fairly easy to identify. It should move with no slack in synch with the steering wheel. From the pitman arm, just follow the motion to the various linkages which finally attach to each front wheel. Do this inspection with the wheels on the ground. If it all looks ok from the pitman arm outwards, then you may indeed have something wrong in the box itself. Each movement of the steering wheel should transmit precisely to the pitman arm, with no slack if the box is ok. I'll bet it becomes pretty obvious what is out of whack. This sounds pretty serious. Don't drive it until you find the problem.
  14. Return spring may also be whacked out on the offending wheel.
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