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jeffsunzeri

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jeffsunzeri last won the day on December 9 2015

jeffsunzeri had the most liked content!

About jeffsunzeri

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Hollister, CA.
  • My Project Cars
    Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler and Imperial from 1941 through 1975.

Converted

  • Location
    Hollister, CA.
  • Interests
    Aviation

Recent Profile Visitors

466 profile views
  1. jeffsunzeri

    Stupid carburetor!

    Carburetor base gasket. There are air passages in the intake manifold that match up to passages in the base of the carburetor. The carburetor base gasket has cutouts to allow these passages to flow.
  2. jeffsunzeri

    Boiling fuel

    What specification has changed to require a lower volume of fuel in the float bowl?
  3. jeffsunzeri

    Stupid carburetor!

    Check to make sure the carburetor base gasket is not covering any passages.
  4. Check battery voltage, then start the car, check the output voltage at the generator, then at the regulator. You need to see voltage greater than battery voltage.
  5. jeffsunzeri

    New to me 1947 WD-21

    WD-21's are great trucks. I've kept mine essentially original including the flatbed. It is a great hauler and easy to maintain. Parts are easier to get than for the 1/2 tons in many cases as they match the military items. Vintage Power Wagons and others have everything you'll need for all the running gear and brakes and suspension.
  6. jeffsunzeri

    6 volt battery 1947 Plymouth business coupe

    You are making a serious maintenance mistake if you are running an AGM battery with an old battery charger or maintaining charger meant for flooded cell batteries. The Optima battery is AGM and you will shorten its life considerably by not using a modern charger or trickle charger specifically designed for the charge profile of an AGM battery. Check the manufacturers requirements for re-charging and follow them to the letter. You will be surprised at the difference in life and charge level a proper charge cycle will make.
  7. jeffsunzeri

    Hemi using oil

    A pretty sure way to determine if you are sucking oil past the valve guides is to check the oil (blue smoke) coming out of the exhaust: - If you get lots of smoke on acceleration, it is likely your rings are not seated correctly. - If you get lots of smoke on deceleration (more than on acceleration), you are pulling oil past the valve guides. It's sort of a mystery why the lifters might not pump up if you've got good oil pressure.
  8. jeffsunzeri

    1949 - My First (vintage) Dodge Truck

    Must say, that is one bitchen' truck! Clearly modified wheelbase.
  9. OEM? I didn't know MoPar made those. Even if threads are bad (just two for the thermostat housing) it would still be a great find. Aluminum can be more easily repaired than cast iron. Photo?
  10. jeffsunzeri

    New owner, 51 Plymouth Cambridge

    If by saying you are "redoing the brakes" you mean adapting discs, why? And you should not head forward into a 12 volt alteration without serious thought either. Why not repair the car the way it came and enjoy it that way first? Many people believe that these cars are fine performers just the way they came from the factory.
  11. jeffsunzeri

    Old mopar's. What do I need to know?

    There should be no problem using your older MoPar for daily driving. I used my 1947 pickup for daily go-to-work for many years, bone stock in the '90's and early 2000's. Differences between GM and MoPar are generally: beefier frames, more robust brakes, much better electrical, better suspension components, fairly bullet proof drivetrain. I think the Carter carbs are far better than the Rochester, double leading shoe brakes are much better, and a lot of little things. If you keep your old MoPar bone stock, and well maintained, it should be a very reliable ride.
  12. jeffsunzeri

    Photo’s of my Truck

    Inspiration!!! Awesome.
  13. jeffsunzeri

    Who does this??????

    I believe you'll find tapped holes on the left side of the block just above the oil pan rail, aft of the distributor provided by mother Mopar for just this purpose.
  14. jeffsunzeri

    everdry kit

    I've been running a pickup with the evr-dry kit for over 30 years (same kit). You don't need the crush washer under the plug. It won't hurt if you leave it on though - no change. The kit keeps water from pooling around the plug and causing corrosion on the plug. The kit also stops corrosion between the tip of the plug and the terminal clip. I have three more flathead mopars which don't have the evr-dry kit. The kit looks cool and keeps things cleaner. If I had three more kits, I'd install them.
  15. jeffsunzeri

    1940 pt105

    Assuming you don't have 4WD, its likely you have a truck assembled from WC-1 parts for a civilian purpose. A few of the earliest WC-1 had a Plymouth engine. Some more tell-tale aspects of the WC-1: - The windshield pushes out and has locking knobs on either side. - The windows edges are metal (so you can rest a rifle on them and not chip the glass). - Gascolator/filter on the left firewall. - Pull-out map table beneath the right dash.
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