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jeffsunzeri

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jeffsunzeri last won the day on December 9 2015

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    Hollister, CA.
  • My Project Cars
    Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler and Imperial from 1941 through 1975.

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    Hollister, CA.
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  1. Most likely an M37 replacement engine. What voltage is the generator?
  2. Lots of experience. The LA motor (273, 318, 340, 360) thermostats work fine, and can be found in the correct temperature. I run a 160 degree version in several MoPar flat sixes with 100% success. The old accordion thermostats are nice paperweights.
  3. Exist a test to know if the head gasket is failed? Yes. A compression test will show most head gasket failures. Additionally, air bubbles in the radiator is a good indicator of a failed head gasket.
  4. No, the Chevy W1 is not a good alternative. Some better diagnostics are in order other than a hard-starting incident and sooty tailpipe. If the carb was rebuilt two years ago, how did it perform then? There are about 70 quadzillion things that might account for hard starting, and black soot in the tailpipe is not a concern at all for a carbureted engine. It should not be gray.
  5. Ground straps: 1. Engine to frame. 2. Engine to firewall. 3. Body shell to frame.
  6. I painted a utility trailer a few months ago with the Tractor Supply paint. I used their black, along with their catalyst and reducer. For me, their reducer recommended percentages were WAY off. I think they (the paint manufacturer) recommended 1 pint for the whole gallon... No way. The paint went on real well, over an epoxy primer, and after 4 - 5 months in the sun, it still looks great, and is fairly hard/chip resistant. Of course, a few months is not much, but so far so good. I would rate the Tractor Supply paints as an excellent buy at around $30 a gallon. That is compared to over $300 a gallon for the paint I use on customer's stuff.
  7. What you have is orange peel. It is not expected for a good enamel finish, but very common for less experienced painters. Some tips: - with enamel, start with 50% of the mixture being enamel reducer. - If you're real particular, check your thinned/reduced mixture with a Zahn cup against the paint manufacturer's recommendations. With some experience, you'll be able to judge the right thinness by dipping your stir stick in the mixture and timing the change from stream to drip when you remove it from the paint cup. I like about 3-4 seconds. - In humid areas, don't wet the paint floor. The extra humidity is a bad thing. Much worse than the specs of dust. Also, your feet will flip up mud spots from the muddy floor. Not good. Also, a wet floor is a slippery floor. Also, not good. - A great helper to the home-based painter is accelerator/hardener. Read the instructions, and make sure you have good breathing equipment. The accelerator helps tremendously to get rid of a number of problems like fish-eyes, and it also adds significant gloss.
  8. Use Irontite now. Stop dicking with the crack. Remove the hose connecting to the heater core when doing the treatment.
  9. Change the condenser and see what happens, if of course, you are running points.
  10. With battery disconnected, what does the ammeter show?
  11. VPW have brand spanking new drums for the 1 tons. They ought to give another 80 years of service or more to the original brake systems.
  12. The standard brakes on the 1 ton axle are really, really good brakes. Discs would be a move backward, IMHO.
  13. I've found it to be something of a weak point on the flatheads. Valve stem lubrication is not the best aspect of these motors. Especially on a new rebuild with tight tolerances, cold, damp weather, and hung valves are fairly common. Generally, after a few hours in service, this will stop happening. Suggestion for now is to get lots of lubrication down the valve stem, removing the head if necessary, so that the stem is not sticking. Check to make sure the spring is not broken. Add an oil additive such as CamGuard which will leave a nice film on the moving parts. You may want to play with oil viscosities a bit to see if that will help.
  14. I have used silicon-bronze with the tig process extensively. It (silicon-broze) has a very narrow application suitability. It is best used for very close tolerance fitting where much of the joint (if not all) derives its strength from the base material, not the brazed joint. Think of it as glue, more than a weld. It has very limited application in repair welds/brazes. It sounds like you DO NOT want to use this on your bellhousing. Standard stick-arc wit appropriate rods should work fine. Just make sure the cooling process does not permit the material to over-harden. This sounds like a job for an experienced welder/fabricator.
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