soth122003

This is the pump I bought Oct 2018. I think I installed it in early 2019. It has worked well all these years, so I can't complain. Since it is a DC pump it doesn't care about polarity. Just ground the brown wire and run the black to the switch. Sorry about the long link. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Electric-Installation-Inline-Carbureted/dp/B07DNJWHCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VN0E70Z3Q3LX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jarfSLsnWgY9oh3DaaGUigmjkYDmA8ebz1BFQ_fmn5RHKbokuusddFI7JS2eYAOEu9O6QsXufUpnrhT5cszKgFBvSuMjQo-wSnLvc-h6diU9XQIxaLiVDDDPa5mkITwaDFh8kSInXex8t1jOZj06_kS17B7fKAevEpIxwox6eKvxUbRvAqgrsF7ipAWFrG9wmYaso4qzD0ed-h-Etv5ikjZQiqmOIAEkrOb69wuZ7Bw.65jGwliF3s5mwkNFPKQgCBM4czITeADLHY9CvMytHrI&dib_tag=se&keywords=6v+electric+fuel+pump&qid=1713467892&sprefix=6v+electric+fuel%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3 Joe Lee

I put my switch in a dash hole blank next to the key switch. I also used a momentary switch, so these is no chance of leaving it on. I wired it to the hot side of the ignition switch (fused with a 10 amp fuse). While my pump is not a carter, it is a 6v pump and it is great. Love it for the prime when I don't start my car for a few weeks. Joe Lee

If it is just a straight vacuum gage, you can't. but most auto vacuum gages double as a fuel pressure gage for low psi/carburated cars. If your gage has numbers before and after the zero it is likely a vacuum/fuel pressure gage. Go to the HB link I posted and look at the face of the gage. If yours looks like that, it's both. To use it as a fuel pressure gage, just use a t-fitting to hook it into a fuel line and pressurize it with the fuel pump. If yours is just a straight vacuum gage, The HB one is only $16 so not like it will break the bank. I have a second one I bought by accident, thinking I didn't have one, and for the cost of postage I would send it to you except that it will probably cost more in postage than to get a new one at HB. LOL Joe Lee

This is the one I have. Since it is also a vacuum gage, I use it to tune my engine as well. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing-scanning/compression-pressure-testers/fuel-pump-testers/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html Joe Lee

Forgot to add that you should take a reading of each pump. The electric with the car not running and then the mechanical running. When you take the reading with it running the mechanical pump pressure might not change as it will only check the pressure of the pump not the volume. If you take a reading behind the mechanical pump, it may read vacuum and that may change when you take the electric pump out of the circuit. This may involve installing the gauge a couple of times in two different areas. Joe Lee

Did you install a fuel filter before the electric fuel pump? I believe the electrics are more prone to fouling than a mechanical due to the motor being fuel cooled. I can't think of a reason the warmer temp would be an issue though, unless the switch from winter to summer blend fuel has something to do with it. You might want to take a fuel pressure reading at the carb then run a bypass line around the electric pump, take another reading and see if the pump is causing a problem. That's all I can think of right now. Some others might chime in with something else hopefully. Joe Lee

I usually just buy a box of SOS pads from the dollar store and they work just fine and I haven't notices any damage to items I use them on. Joe Lee

While I don't have an Airtex fuel pump, I do have a electric fuel pump for prime and vapor lock. I've had it for a couple of years and I have never noticed a fuel issue while running the mechanical fuel pump drawing fuel through the electric prime pump. In another thread I have currently "Air in the Fuel Line", I was troubleshooting a fuel issue. One of my checks was fuel pressure. The prime pump is putting out 3 psi, while the mechanical is putting out 6 psi. Both were steady readings and did not interfere with each other. Turns out is most likely water and old gas combo. Your idea of a t-fitting sounds fine, but you may want to check the condition of the mechanical fuel pump, the state of the fuel (is it good or going bad, water in the fuel, etc..) pinhole in the line that may be affected by the warmer weather, just to name a few. It might also be like you think that the electric pump is creating drag in the fuel. Only way to find out is to check. Not all pumps are created equal. Sam and DJK also raise good points about doing away with the mechanical pump all together. Me I like original stuff, but with the advent of technology, it might make more sense to upgrade some things to relieve the heart ache of a failure point. (My generator to an alternator after 2 armature failures in 5 years). It all boils down to what you want and then once you decide, all our friends here will chime in with suggestions on how best to do it. Joe Lee

That's for when everything is back together and you've filled and drilled the holes that were egged and replaced the torque shaft bushings and basically put everything back to factory specs, When the clutch pedal is pushed it should move approximately 1 1/16" till the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate fingers and starts to disengage the clutch. It's the last procedure called...Clutch pedal free play. LOL All kidding aside, In your service manual it is probably the first subject in the clutch section. It is also the last step in the clutch replacement process before the operational or drive checks. Joe Lee

That's the plan. Trouble with water is it don't stay in one place while driving and tends to mix with the fuel and run right along with it to the carb. Hence the small bubbles visible in the fuel filter. Only thing that will really stop it is a water fuel separator. Got the filters in today but will wait since I'm going to order the square pipe plug socket set and try to impact the fuel tank drain plug out (very carefully). Joe Lee

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER Thanks for tip Los. I pulled the sender and measured the gas level, it was at 2 1/2" in an 8" deep tank, which matches the fuel gage reading of about 1/4 tank of gas. Looking in the tank from the sender hole I couldn't see any water, but it was probably back by the tank drain, and the drain plug is stuck and I can't remove it. The one thing I didn't do last fill up was to put Stabil in the tank. It keeps the gas good and also helps with condensate. When I measured the gas level, I stirred the gas in the tank then I smelled the gas. It didn't smell bad, but it smelled weak. The strong smell wasn't there. It smelled lite, like half of the normal gas smell. I have new fuel filters on the way to replace the one before the prime pump at the tank and the one before the carb and when I change them, I'll take another crack at removing the drain plug and hopefully know for sure about the water in the tank. So tune in next week for another exciting episode of "As the Wheel Turns". Joe Lee

How tight is to tight? A couple of thousands? Or more than 10? I personally wouldn't use a ream as they come in set sizes and may not match the shaft size. I would wrap some emery cloth around drill bit of close size and using a lite oil, hone the bushing a little at a time until the fit is smooth. If the fit is more than .010" I would replace the bushing using the correct tool. That said, you do you. Oilite bushings tend to be a bronze color and using a magnifying glass you can see the surface is porous and has an oil like sheen. Joe Lee

Just google pilot bushing tool. The tools don't so much burnish as they keep the ID from collapsing in when installing. Amazon has them or you can loan a tool from an auto parts store. Since your bushing is still in, I would measure the ID and check it against tranny shaft. It should be close and then use a light emery cloth on the bushing to clean it up. If it is an oillite bearing no lube, if not just a dab of grease in the bushing and install the tranny. Your bigger concern will be the linkage and such. Kilgore47's post was how mine was. Also look at your clutch fork. Make sure it is not bent and where the adjustment rod seats into is not worn out to much. Joe Lee

That was my thought exactly! Except that it wouldn't start. That's why I thought that something had blocked the idle and run circuit of the carb. That is a great thought Los. I haven't had water in the fuel of a car in a loooong time. But now that you brought it up... I'll pull the fuel sender tomorrow and have a look. I fill the tank about every 3-4 months and with a full tank, moisture or condensation is low, but with the tank setting at or below half for about a month or two and not being driven very far (like about 10 miles a week) here in FLA. condensation can be a problem. A cup of watery fuel can stop a car in its tracks. The checking I did today found no pinholes in the lines or bubbles in the filter either. Thinking back with water as a possible problem, the drive to the Taco place was straight for about 2 miles, Then a stop sign and a fairly tight S-curve then another stop sign, turn right and then 50 feet later the car quit. That S-curve and the stops must have mix the water and the 1/4 full tank just enough to kill it. Then when it was home and sat over night the water settled car works fine. I remember in 89 I was on call for the Panama invasion and got the call at 3am. Went to start my vette and it wouldn't crank. This was Dec 24 and the temp had dipped to about 28 degrees that night. Got my flashlight and look in the tank of the vette and there was about a 1/4" of ice on the bottom of the tank at the fuel pick-up. Got a ride to deploy and when we didn't go, got back to the house at about 2pm and used a stick to break up the ice and Heet to evap the water. These things happen so rarely that we usually don't think of them till way down the trouble shooting line. I'll check the tank tomorrow and get back to you guys then. Joe Lee

I have a question about the mechanical fuel pump. Can the mechanical pump pump air into the line to the carb? My P-15 died on me last week going to get take out. Wouldn't start again. Primed with the electric fuel pump and hit the accelerator a couple times and it would try to start and then stumble and die. Pulled the air filter and could see the accelerator pump, pump fuel into the intakes. I sat there for about 30-40 minutes waiting for a friend and when he showed up we dinked with it some more but it would stumble and die after the start. Towed back home and trouble shot the next day. It started with no problem and ran fine. Then I noticed that the fuel filter (K&N glass) just before the carb had air going through it. Not a lot, just like the treasure chest in an aquarium, about every 40-50 seconds when running at idle or every 15-25 seconds at about 2000 rpms. Troubleshooting suggested that 1. Vapor lock from air into the line but I have an electric fuel prime pump and it still wouldn't run on the day of the shutdown. 2. crack or split fuel line sucking air into the line causing a low fuel supply at speed. Again the electric fuel pump should over come this because it is supplying fuel from back at the tank and pressurizing the fuel line. The amount of bubbles suggest a pin hole. 3. Mechanical fuel pump is going bad and pumping air into the system, but can a fuel pump do that? and at a very low amount of air, just about five to ten bubbles about 1/8" in size every 30-40 seconds. 4. I have two problems thinking I had one. Crud in the carb that blocked both the idle and run circuits and a pin hole leak some where. The crud either pushed through during the last attempt to start or fell back and broke up on the tow home. The next day I pulled the top of the carb and the inside looked good and clean. Had my grandson hit the prime pump and the carb filled normally and the float shut of the flow just as it was supposed to. I did not see anything floating around in there so I put the top back on and we started the car and presto, it started fine and ran great. Parked it as it was Easter and we had dinner to go to. The next day I put a fuel pressure gage on at the carb and started and ran the car. Gage said the Mech pump was putting out 6 psi. The prime pump when the engine was not running was at 3 psi. At this point I thought crap in the fuel line or carb had stopped the car. Started the car and then noticed the air bubbles coming through the inline filter (I hooked the pressure gage up after the filter but before the carb) I then ran the car for about 30-40 minutes and no problem except for the bubbles in the fuel filter. I'm fixing to go out and put the car up on stands and inspect the fuel line and see if there is a pinhole some where in it. While I'm doing that I just want to see what you guys think about this problem or problems. Can the mech fuel pump be going bad and introduce small amounts of air into the system to cause it to shut down or is it a crud issue and a pinhole leak at the same time? Any thoughts comments or tips are greatly appreciated. Joe Lee

Is the pilot bushing still installed and if so what is it's condition? Is it scored, mangled, pushed in further than you installed it? Is it stuck to the tranny input shaft? If you're ordering a new bushing, try a slip fit on the shaft before you install it. Just checked my manual and when you install the bushing, the tool you're supposed to install it with drives the bushing in and makes it a wedge fit. When the tool is removed it burnishes the bushing making it a correct fit for the tranny shaft. After install, lube the bushing with a bit of grease. The manual does not give specs on the bushing fit, but I'd imagine it will not be more than .001-002" of an inch when new. You just might need to burnish the current bushing to assure a good mating fit for the shaft instead of ordering a new bushing. Joe Lee

Hey Rich, Just my opinion but, Have you ever noticed when someone says "Just my opinion" they are about to relate to one of two topics. 1. How someone is about to venture into the FUGLY of your suggested action or, 2. The epic I know better than you for whatever mod or repair you're doing. Anywho, I do tend to agree with most on here about the smaller lights at the top of the bumper inside the bumperettes. The big ones might work in the same position, but may detract from the overall asthetics of the front end. The big ones under the headlights might provide more light at night but will compete with the headlights as far as looks go. Like sidevalvepete said the big one would definitely be better on the lager luxury cars like the Duesenburg or the Peirce Arrow. Just my two cents worth. Joe Lee

You're right about old men, it's all about the subject matter. Just like veterans and their war stories.. each year they get bigger and better. "There I wuz, WW DeNang.... surrounded by 20 enemies and all I had wuz my K-bar. I was afraid.. Afraid one of 'em would get away " Joe Lee

Mine looks like that as well. 48 P-15. Joe Lee

While i can't help with your current reassembly. I just wanted to say it looks good. Also your instrument cluster threw me for a loop. I saw the 160 on the speedo and the 100 on the heat gage and it took me a few minutes to realize this was a UK car and it was in KPH and centigrade. I may have seen them before and it just didn't register. My first thought was Wow that's a fast car. LOL Joe Lee

Reading the post, I think the three big reasons that people upgrade to 12v are as follows. 1. Diving factors. 2. Safety reasons, 3. Ease of maintenance. Do you drive all the time or just occasionally? Driving it all the time? then the 12v conversion makes sense. You want the lights brighter for safety. Accessories? 12v gives you more options for music, phone chargers, air pumps stc. Maintenance costs? 12v may be cheaper in the long run. Generator requires brushes and oil, The VR may or may not be reliable. Some last years and some last months or days. Batteries? 12v may be cheaper or at least more readily available. The 6v battery may be sitting on the shelf for months or years, depending on where it is purchased, when you need one. That said, if you drive you car 2-3 times a week for short trips or the Sunday drive or the fair weather driver? The 6v originality is fine. Myself? I don't drive in the rain or at night if I can help it. Same for high traffic days (crazy drivers out there). Just watch a Letto's Law episode yesterday. 18 year old girl driving a Corvette at 155mph killed a motorcyclist. At NIGHT! 5 seconds before impact she was doing 155mph. When she hit the guy she had slowed to 87mph. NUTS. This is also due to the inexperience of younger drivers. (think Newtons law) Not to mention the distractions of the cell phone. Anywho. Most of the people I see doing the upgrade to 12v are the one who buy the DIY restoration car with the intention to use more often for a daily driver. Hence the upgrade to 12v, disk brakes seat belts and such. Myself? I like the 6v system. I like the Sunday drive or the short trips around town. Radio? I have a bluetooth speaker and an old phone for music. I smoke so I love the wing windows on my car. Only time I want AC is at long stop lights otherwise the cowl vent and the windows are fine. The key take away I have is these cars are 70, 80 and 90 years old. They can't compete with newer cars unless you change out most everything under the body. Now for all this blathering of 6v vs 12v I am still firm believer in "It is your car so do with it what you will". I may not agree with you choice, but it is your choice and not mine. So I will offer advice and opinions and like all advice and opinions they are butts, some people wipe good and some people wipe poorly. Joe Lee

I thought my 48 didn't have a drain plug either. until I used a wire brush and a pick. Brushed the lower area of the diff and found the drain plug. Used the pick to clean out the hole, which was a 7/16" square hole. They used to have square hole plug wrenches (like an allen wrench set) ranging from 1/4" to 1/2" SAE. I used a dremel on my plug and sized it to 1/2" so I can use the 1'2" ratchet on it. Here's a link for the plug sets. https://www.amazon.com/CASOMAN-Pieces-2-Inch-Socket-Female/dp/B09F64XLCW/ref=pd_scr_dp_alt2_d_d_sccl_3_7/143-9413250-4066531?pd_rd_w=027Zs&content-id=amzn1.sym.d27da8b4-737d-43c7-86c4-e59a1ff3f7e1&pf_rd_p=d27da8b4-737d-43c7-86c4-e59a1ff3f7e1&pf_rd_r=M9XQVBZ16F8HBMZVF3EP&pd_rd_wg=ttoqt&pd_rd_r=48123a8d-3e4f-4d5f-8e40-6d0bfc66848a&pd_rd_i=B09F64XLCW&psc=1 Joe Lee

I'd like to send a loud shout out to Joecoozie!!! He had a set of tracks he let me have for a fair price. I tried French lake, Ebay, AB's and a few other places. If not for Joe, I'd be fabbing an ugly makeshift set of feet. I installed the tracks and put on the new seat covers and I must say I'm impressed. The light neoprene backing and skirt material were pretty good and the fit was pretty nice as well. The actual seat and back material was nice and thick and should provide years of use. The last pic is what the seats looked like. They were the original upholstry, I think. I still need to do a little stretching and tucking to even out the material, but so far I'm pretty pleased with the way this turned out. Joe Lee

joecoozie, Thanks for the PM. I repaired the floor pan with rusty metal primer with ospor and a patch with sealant under it to keep the water out.. I think it came out pretty well. The pan has a lot of good metal and the only light spots is where the rust is. I should probably replace the MC res access plate but that is easy to do later. Joe Lee

Thanks for the suggestion Tired. Believe it or not the PO who had the car before work on the floor pans. They were rusted but he cleaned them up made some OK repairs and the glassed over the pan in those areas. The pans are in decent shape and the mount areas are good. More than likely I'll fab up some type of strut to repair the mounting feet. I'm also going to check with French Lake on Monday and maybe I'll get lucky. Joe Lee