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soth122003 last won the day on February 15 2015

soth122003 had the most liked content!

About soth122003

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 06/17/1960

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Biography
    Retired Air Force crew chief
  • Occupation
    Helicoptefr mechanic

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Niceville, Florida
  • Interests
    camping, sight seeing, scuba
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe


  • Location
    Niceville, Fl
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

433 profile views
  1. soth122003

    start with 12V, run on 6V

    If you got 8 years out of that battery, you did real good. Have you had the hot start problem for awhile or is it recent? Mine does the same thing. I believe the shop manual says when starting a hot engine to hold the accelerator pedal down at the 3/4 mark. Like I said mine has been doing the same thing recently so I redid all my grounding points. cleaned them up and reconnected them and the car turns over a lot better now. Also, instead of installing another battery, you might want to get a jump pack with a switch. Turn key on, connect pos to pos and Neg to the Starter or at the cable past the starter solenoid, Turn jump pack on until eng starts then switch off jump pack. Cheaper than installing another battery and wiring. Joe
  2. soth122003

    New to the forum, Here's my dilemma

    Seems everyone already covered the basics of the problems it could be, so I reply about the fuel filters, I have 2 on my 48 P-15 SD. One plastic one at the tank to catch crud from the tank, and a race style at the carb (that I can take apart and clean) to catch any crud from the lines. Your fuel pump also has a brass screen in it that acts as a filter as well. Joe
  3. soth122003

    Easy things are getting difficult

    Even though I just turned 58, I am not quite ready to give up doing my own work. My legs are going out, same with my eyes and I have COPD. The biggest problem I have is getting down and getting back up. All I have is the driveway to work in and my biggest gripe is forgetting a certain tool and then having to get back up to get it. The big lessons here are... After 55 concrete is not your friend, Florida humidity is a killer in the summertime and mosquitoes will always find the most annoying place to bite you while your under the car. Joe P.S. Change your work rest cycle. Instead of 2 hours of work and 15 minutes of rest, I do about 20 minutes of work and then I do 1 hour of research.
  4. soth122003

    Speedometer cable lubrication

    To Lube the cable you should be able to reach under the dash and disconnect the cable from the speedo. Then just pull it down and pull the cable out of it's sheath. Joe
  5. soth122003

    loose dash light switch contact rivets

    Hey Bud, Personally, I would leave it alone. The phenolic piece they are riveted too is fragile. Any attempt to tighten the rivets may crack or break it. However, if it bothers you that much, try a small brass drift and lightly tap on the terminal side of the rivets. Or you can try a small dab of super glue on the terminal side. As long as the rivet is not in danger of turning and contacting the other terminal, or coming off the board, I would leave it alone. Joe
  6. soth122003

    Oil Leak Help

    Treat it like a leaking freeze plug and make a patch about .010-.020 thick and the diameter of the pilot hole. use light sealant on the edge of the plug and press it in with a brass drift. then install the pilot bushing and check the clearances. Joe
  7. soth122003

    39 heater motor?

    If the motor spins freely, continuity checks are in order. Clean the armature,. It's basically a DC motor, If you can pull the motor casing/housing, check the condition of the windings, wires, and make sure they are not grounded or shorted. Joe
  8. soth122003

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Glad it was an easy fix. Like others said, get some gasket material and make your own. Joe
  9. soth122003

    Internal Fuel Tank line or sump is clogged

    Does the inside of the tank have rust at the bottom? If so the filter might be clogged with calcium or rust deposits from water in the tank. As a last ditch attempt try some CLR. squirt some down the line and try to spray some on the pick-up filter through the sending unit hole. let it set for a few hours then try to blow some air through. Then clean the tank out by using a short length of chain in the tank and shaking the tank from side to side to scrape out the chunky stuff. Hope this helps. Joe
  10. soth122003

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Sounds like when you floored it you sucked some debris into the carb. It settled in the idle circuit. Just pull the carb and clean it then blow out the passages with compressed air and it should work. Also check your fuel filters for sediment and debris. Joe
  11. soth122003

    Stainless Trim Installation

    Try a heat gun on low to soften up the weather stripping. Makes the rubber more pliable. Joe Lee
  12. soth122003

    1953 dodge Coronet transmission issues

    Check the engine and tranny mounts. If they are flat or crushed it will bind the shift linkage.
  13. soth122003

    Set the timing with the oil pump?

    Rotate your distributor shaft 180 degrees. If your truck was running before, your probably put the disturb in 180 degrees out. For the flathead 6 engines, with the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, your distributor rotor should be at about the 7 oclock position. Joe Lee
  14. soth122003

    Saw a neat engine at the Charlotte swap meet.

    Downdraft tube? Joe Lee
  15. soth122003

    Brakes... Pedal feel

    Hey Knuckleharley, I already replace the lines and hoses a few years ago. At the same time I rebuilt and honed all the wheel cylinders and the MC. Just that that particular wheel cylinder was the worst of the lot. It had some pitting issues I could not get out. The cylinder now has a small gouge about .0005 deep from the piston in that cylinder. I also heard most of the new wheel cylinders made today are crap and won't last but a few years, so I will have the old ones bored and re-sleeved in brass. Being I am on a very limited budget for the next few months/years, and it is six wheel cylinders (2 for each front) I'll buy the one I need now and re-sleeve that one then do the same for the other one in a few months. When I have a front one leaking I'll do the same thing again. Sorta spreading the lump sum payment out so to speak. Gotta do this for now as Momma's car is in the shop awaiting a new engine due to a wrist pin going bad at 71000 mile and the engine is on back order for the next few weeks, making my car the primary until hers is fixed. Gotta love that 100000 mile and 10 year warranty. Oh and FYI, I already have a grill plus complete set of front end trim as well as the wing windows, beauty rings, hub caps and some assorted trim pieces for the car should I need them. Came with the car when I bought it. Joe Lee

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