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RatMan

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    16
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About RatMan

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 10/21/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison Heights, Michigan
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Plymouth Cranbrook

Converted

  • Location
    Madison Heights, MI
  • Interests
    Family, Cars, & Camping

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Fuel Systems Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

154 profile views
  1. Thanks for all the input everyone. So i did find that my distributor is 180 out (pointed at 1 oclock) but my wires are all ran that way as well. I don't think it should make a difference but im gonna but it back to the way it should be anyways. im gonna set the cold lash for now and ill check it hot again once its running. Im waiting on some new int/exh studs right now.
  2. Thank for the info guys. Any ideas about questions 2 & 3?
  3. Yes. I was at TDC on the balancer and the rotor was pointed at 7 o’clock. But at that time I was not able to adjust all the valves listed in Stage A. But I was able to adjust all the valves in Stage B. That’s why it seems like it’s 180. But that doesn’t make sense to me. I feel like it wouldn’t run if it was 180 out.
  4. Hey Everyone, Thanks in advance for reading. So I was adjusting the valves on my P24 for the first time over the weekend and I came across some peculiar items. First off, I started by adjusting per the tech tips which are copied and pasted below. Exhaust valve clearance .010 Intake valve clearance .008 Stage A, #1 and #6 at TDC, #1 in firing position Stage B, #1 and #6 at TDC, #6 in firing position To move from Stage A to B, manually turn the engine 1 revolution. Stage A – Adjust #1 Both valves, #2 Inlet valve, #3 Exhaust Valve, #4 Inlet valve, #5 Both valves. Stage B – Adjust #2 Both valves, #3 Inlet valve, #4 Exhaust valve, #5 Inlet valve, #6 Both valves. 1) The first thing that I noticed is that when I went to adjust per the sequence above is that it was backwards. So when I set it to TDC on the #1 cylinder firing (rotor @ 7 o'clock) , I was able to adjust Stage B and vise versa. To me, this seems like the distributor is 180 out. But the car was running like this all last year. Is it possible for these motors to run 180 out? Or is something else maybe messed up that I cant think of? 2) I decided to lash the valves anyways while I figured that out. I found that the valves that could be lashed on either Stage A or Stage B where not repeatable after rotating the motor 1 revolution. So #2 inlet and #5 inlet would not repeating every time the motor was turned over. I forgot which was which, but on one stage they would be good and the next they would either be too large or not enough gap. Once again, is there something wrong I am not catching or should I just split the difference between the two? 3) Some of the adjusters of the tappets seemed to be fairly easy to turn. What is stopping them form turning and adjusting while running? Additional background info (not sure if needed but just in case), I did have the motor out last year to re-seal it and replaced the timing chains. I am fairly confident that they where installed properly. Im not sure if improper install could cause it to be 180 out. Also, I am adjusting these cold since the intake and manifold are currently off so I added .002 to both intake and exhaust. Thanks again to all in advance. Ryan
  5. RatMan

    P24 Timing

    I double and triple checked the timing marks before I put the cover on. But its possible I checked it incorrectly. I lined them up according to the manual. I think that if I was off a tooth I would have a lot more issues than not being able to get to 0 degree TDC. I wasn't able to get out tot the garage last night to check everything. I'll try and get out there tonight.
  6. RatMan

    P24 Timing

    Its possible that I could have moved the cam without the chain being on when I was replacing them. But I didn't remove the oil pump so I would think that everything should be timing properly (or close enough) if if dropped the distributor back in and it was pointing at No. 1. I do have a vacuum gauge. I have been going back and forth double checking vacuum and timing with the light. However, I haven't been able to get the vacuum into the green zone (17-22 in of vacuum with my gauge). My issue is that I cannot put the motor to 0 degree TDC even if I wanted to. I'm trying to get it to baseline so that I can tune it in from there. I will look into the additional adjustment on the distributor.
  7. RatMan

    P24 Timing

    When I did my static timing setup everything was correct (or at least I thought it was, i will double check). Also I know that 6 degrees advance is actually not too bad for timing, I just find it odd that I cant get to TDC if I wanted to.
  8. RatMan

    P24 Timing

    Hi Everyone. So I just got done putting the motor and trans back in the car after having to out to clean the cooling passages real good and re-seal the motor. After getting it back in I cant seem to get the timing back to where is was. Right now it is at 6 degrees BTDC with the distributor maxed out and vacuum advance disconnected. Rotating the distributor the opposite direction only advances the timing that much further. While I had the motor out i found that the timing chains where very loose and ended up replacing them with a set from Bernbaum. My understanding is that the timing chains can only go on one way and I double and triple checks my marks before putting the cover back on. So I am not sure why I cant get the timing back in. Not sure if this is relevant but I do have 12V Pertronix setup on the car. Thanks in advance for the help. Ryan
  9. The parts catalog showed up today. Now I just need to locate the parts. In case anybody needs this for the future here are the part numbers. Pivot Spring 863 905 Pivot Washer 1325 103
  10. I guess so because my fork setup does not look like Dons. I have a parts catalog on the way actually. Should be here today.
  11. Don, Unfortunately, this is not the spring I’m looking for. That’s is the spring for the fork to the throw out bearing. I’m looking for the spring that holds the fork to the transmission. It attaches to the fork pivot.
  12. Anybody have any info? Still searching.
  13. Hey everyone. Looking for some help here. So I have recently pulled the engine and trans to freshen everything up. Upon goin to put everything back together i think I have misplaced a spring for the clutch fork. If I remember correctly there was a brake drum shoe type of spring that held the clutch fork to the pivot (circled in the pic below). Am I remembering this correctly? I also don’t see this spring in the diagram in the book. If anyone can share a photo of what im looking for and where I can possibly get one that would be great. Plan B is to go the auto parts store and search through drum brake kits to see what will work. Thanks for the help!
  14. I already have a HyDrive service manual so that should help a lot. I just was't sure how to locate the factory P/N seals from the manual. All this info is great though! Thanks again!
  15. Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. I'm not sure of the shaft seal is leaking or not. Its very possible. This car was sitting in a barn for almost 30 years before I got it running again a couple years ago. I guess we will find out when I pull it apart. I don't plan on doing that for another month or so though.
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