9 foot box

That's a good looking wheel bach. What size tire are are you using?Rim width?

It's the aspect ratio from 70 to 85,that would give you taller tires. A 215/85r15 is 29.4" high, 8.5" wide and a 215/70r15 is 26.9" tall.

I have looked at Stockton also. The wheel they made for a Power Wagon was a flat steel disc welded to a drop center wheel. Looks okay for military style. I like the six air holes. American Wheel Specialist, In Kennewick,WA makes a 16" and a 19.5". I haven't seen a picture though.

As a plus, all the numbers are in the Rockauto parts number search.

Yes, i think you have to make your own. I used 1/4" steel. I probably flat filed the gasket surface. Aluminum or steel, don't forget the stand off support to the heat shield, if your going to use it.To replace the fuel pump stand-off , I made an L-bracket with a 10/32 thread welded at the right spot outboard, to keep it steady. Wing nut on top, lock nut under the shield and looks original.

When I went to overdrive, George helped me also. I've seen his and about four other diagrams. I don't have a throttle kick down, or the other parts.I have a fused two position longish lever toggle that applies power to the solenoid, the bottom connection,that pulls the pawl out, engaging the overdrive. I didn't like shorting the points or all the work to put a momentary switch on the shift lever knob. I have to flip the toggle off to go from 2nd high to 3rd low, then on again for 3rd over. A tip, you have to get out of overdrive to use reverse.

That bolt is the reason I bought a crowfoot wrench set. Hardly ever use them other than that. I take the top bolt out first, and as I loosen the lower bolt I hold the starter up into position, till the lower bolt is out.

The manifold has that one nut that many miss at first. It holds in the lower flange of the center port of the intake manifold. You don't get at it from the top.

As an alternative to vinegar, have you heard of citric acid being used for rust. It has no odor and easily disposable, except the sediment from each flush.

The gear selector does all four gears, the lower swing type lever is the one with play, and selects which cluster to engage.

My procedure is to pull the choke out a half inch, pump the throttle twice and push the plunger to starter. It's been working every time for years. I am able to buy premium though. It surprises me that so many have a low or even a dry fuel bowl in such a short time. But, Olefre's car probably doesn't have a manual choke. When you pump the throttle with a cold engine, your choke should close. It starts and warms the unit on the manifold, lightening tension, and opening the choke. I think these engines need a certain amount of choke upon start up. The thermal ones being harder to adjust, for that just right start up and not too rich.Thats my 2cents. Whats the manual say?

For my plug wires, I used Accel 4039B, I just googled the number and could buy now for $37,free ship. But they are blue. Taylor 70060 are black,$60, but doesn't have the straight dist. boots. So you have to source that, also.

Hey Dodgy, I figured the topic was moot, since Adam's post. The picture that you can see your fan tips, looks like you have the internal head. That would mean you your engine should be a 51 or later. Looking at that picture, your engine number should be on the flat above the core plug on the left front of the engine. If that number doesn't jive with the factory numbers at T137, then, some blocks have a casting number under the dist. and rear of the oil fill tube base, with what appears to be a casting date, on some blocks.The blocks that I have vary. So Adam's and others run cool. Why doesn't yours? My car and truck have a 115 degree tubing elbow with two short, straight hose connections to the lower radiator and pump. Could your, what appears to be one piece hose, pump to lower radiator , be collapsing because of the different flow of a honeycomb versus a three tube radiator? Other than that it's pulling the three core plugs that you can get at, the pump and distribution tube and see why you aren't getting flow. Flushing doesn't do crap to any creek water added to any high temperature block like a mopar flathead.

Can't help with the top spring. Second spring looks like a e-brake return, linked to a piece of hard wire to the flat bar at the tunnel. Third, looks like throttle return, hooked to the hook at the base of the air cleaner support bracket. Low enough to clear the coil/wire loom mount. Fourth could be the hood latch return spring, under the mechanism at the front. The bracket looks familiar, but I don't know right now. The clutch return on my car is less than five inches long, and needs to be of a tension , somewhere in the middle of those pictured.

There are two instrument lamps, a 55, like the ones pictured in these posts, and a 51. The 51 is shorter and has a smaller bulb. It's the only bulb that fits in a dimmer light that I have at hand. the 55 hits the inside, and won't clip on. The vintage 51's are even shorter than ones I have recently bought. But, the newer bulbs fit and work.