9 foot box

Knuckleharley, I might have bought it on Amazon, both cans for $55. You need their solvent to thin product and to pour on top of unused product in can when you are done. It keeps it from setting. When reopened, stir and put the amount you want to work with in a separate container to thin and work out of that jar or whatever. I clean the flux brush and container with lac. thinner, but don't want to contaminate the original can or use their rather expensive solvent for cleaning. It's aluminum that can be thinned and brushed on. I used some today to fill the pitting in the bar that holds the rocker clips, it looked better after a bit of flat filing, then welded on the patch panel. Then, just for giggles, I filled a hole at the front of the rocker, at the fender. I hit with the DA, looks good enough till I do it right. Don't work out of the can,cap it, and use a separate container, it sets up too fast.Do this and you extend the shelf life

I bought my wiper arm grommets from Macs 51a-17562. They also had two length of retainer springs for holding the wiper arms to the motor .

Where else can you find a headlight for $6, water pump for $35, heater control valve for$7, intake gaskets for both blocks $5. I use the site like a parts catalog.

Going back a bit, I have had good results with Lab-metal with their solvent. I used it on the right park light bucket that was rusted out. It can be thinned to be applied with a flux brush, sets up faster than J-B weld, and can be powder coated to 400 degrees, supposedly. Just a thought concerning your headlight bucket problem. I used duct tape on the outside and patched the inside first, then removed tape a bit later to coat the outer side. You need the solvent to sometimes smooth the patch with the brush.I guess it's a learning experience, but I like it better than two part alternatives with epoxies.

You might try metrommp.com and see if they have what you're looking for.

When I got my car it had a 12 volt battery in the trunk. Neg. ground with a cable run forward to an additional solenoid also going to the starter. It has push button under the dash that starts the car on 12 volt neg. and is isolated from the 6 volt system by the other solenoid. Just don't use both at once,Duh! It's also handy for tunes, phone,etc. by having a 12volt neg.power source and also to the lighter. I was thinking of adding a solar charger in the back window. I used it the other day in a no start hot situation and had to employ a full throttle start.The six volts didn't cut it. It gets hot under that hood. Or get a 6/12volt series parallel switch from Texas Industrial Electric Co., no.111984-6v

For my fluid changes I've been staying with GL-1. Thats what was made at the time, for all cars or trucks. The issue being that oil labeled EP has additives that are harmful to yellow metal.

Walker 15021B, seems to come up cheaper.

When I had this problem, it was a carbon like deposit in the air draft tube circuit, at the center intake opening.

Could a valve be stuck and the lifter is rattling. You have to remove the front wheel and inner fender to get to the valve covers, but you would see if thats the problem before more disassembly is needed.

Rock Auto has a Carter pump, angled or straight. M2091 or M2090 are the numbers. $37 or $65

From the speedometer the cable goes right to center of inner firewall then down and out the center floorpan hole. The one with the slot. It then runs to a cable clip at the front emergency brake bolt, then back to the gear in the straightest way. depends on cable clearance at e-brake assembly. So the cable is in view in front of your firewall pad in the stock setup, but thats the route.

It reminds me of how Lee Petty started out in his cars.

I replaced my shackle bushings last week. They are a Harris bushing. Old Mopar packaging show a HB 735. I looked it up at SDTruck Springs, and liked the measurements and squish factor better than the numbers you have been given and that come up at NAPA, which is a HB 850. I used NAPA #274-8735, put in with silicone valve sealant. They were for an early 1946 Plymouth Business Coupe, Special Deluxe. 1 3/4" spring with 2" shackle width. It comes up as fitting Chry., Dodge, Studebaker and 53-54 Chevy Belair. I think the books are wrong with what comes up, so thats how I cross referenced. I'm sure you could find the front bushings the same way. Rick D.

Try Metro Moulded Parts, WR2703 fronts. Rockauto has this part (window vent) for various models also.