9 foot box

Heat the fitting and head at the left rear on the head, and check the gauge, for any response. If it works, there is a build-up of rust preventing coolant reaching the capillary bulb. I wouldn't try to take the fittings off the head, you could twist the line and ruin it. I'd pull the core plug above the fitting on the head, and use pick's to clean it up at the gland nut. If the gauge doesn't register, go for it. Apply thread release often, it might come out without damage. Good reminder of what is here on site, Adam.

I don't know what I have in various vehicle distributors, but a CS725A Napa looks right for my 49 P15 First Edition.

If it has 12 volts, I would take the plunger assembly off the top of the starter and check it for why it won't contact. The lever engages the drive, the button applies current for spin. The lever may be bent from use and not pushing the button far enough for contact.

I bought this at auction Sunday. It's a 51 B-3-D. I started bid at $100 and a guy behind me went to $500. I let him buy it. As I turned to talk to him, he was saying to his wife that now he has to get rid of the tractor part. We split the cost, I drove it a mile home, disconnected the Bale Handler and loaded it on his flatbed with my forklift. And my 47 WD-21 in the background.

I had a problem like that, only the gauge stayed neutral with lights on or off. I went to my book and connected a ground from field at VR to base . I had charge. You can also jump field VR to field Gen. to test a bad wire. I was able to clean contacts on VR and bump up the voltage to 7.5 by loosening the screw on the side of my ARM. contact and tapping it closer. I had the batt. out today to pull dist. and put in a new condenser, because of a momentary stall situation the other day. After batt. hook up, it still shows charge. The book say's change VR with the field ground test, I'll see if my results change. I have bumped up the charge rate on my WD21 with an 8 volt batt. to 9.3 volts the same way. My VR's don't look like John T's. My VR's are probably original equipment and do not need bending anything to change charge rate.

Thanks Cowboy48. Can you do that to a post I made Sunday, about dashboards and steering wheels? Just the 46-48 file is 57,000 kb. I deleted it in my downloads, just to keep my old laptop working slightly above sloth level.

I found an interesting file the other day. Type, steeringbook7-3a.pdf and click enter. Choose, frontiernet.net to open file. An edit, it's from a book Steering Wheels and Dashboards 1939-1949 by Don Narus. You can type 1a or 2a for all of the file for the earlier years. ISBN 978-0-6151-7145-6 at Amazon or where ever, for the book.

The fittings at the block and filter housing are called inverted flare and need a double flare on the tubing, to seal the new lines. Thats on a stock set-up, you could have different fittings. Like Merle alluded to, all the manifold studs, head bolts, thermostat housing, water pump, need thread sealant.

I was directing Sawyers Mill to the info, to find his self. Yeah Sawyers, just continue to post at this thread, it's the start of your project. Check out the resources and technical info at the top of this page, also. Post some pictures of your projects. Welcome to the forum newbie.

I just Googled, fulton sun shield instructions, and the old install file was at docplayer.net. It's the Nor-Mar file. It appears there are four settings marked for width. The file I see doesn't go past 1948. But shows it broke down and how to fit and mask for paint. As an edit, I just Googled that again and it didn't come up till I typed,doc, at the end of the search. I saved it but the pictures aren't there. Hope that helps, if no one has found it yet.

Google t137.com and click flathead six engine numbers.

I've never read or heard any mention,that the visor also extends about 4", but both my P15's, do.

I've disconnected the linkage to one carb and set the idle to both carb's and then adjust the linkage I disconnected, to slip back on.

Welcome to the forum Fat Bottom. It depend's on if your car is still 6 volt. My P15's have a small toggle under the dash to the right of the wheel for dash light dimming. With 6 volt you use #51's. If your's has been changed to 12 volt. There is a chart in downloads at the top of the page, in most downloaded, scroll to the right, there it is. I've seen different wattage bulbs in 12 volt miniature bulbs, but I don't know if they will fit the dash. Post a picture of your car.

You will need a 3/4" rod or I used tubing to hold the bearings and thrust washer on the countershaft for installation. My tubes are 6 7/8" long and I have a 7 11/16". I put the countershaft in and push the short one through with the longer one. If all is well, I push the longer tube through with the shaft and key. I think I bought my bearing and gasket kit from Len Dawson at Deception Pass. Make sure all the bearings are in for the main shaft at the rear of the drive pinion. I use grease to hold them and then install snap ring.