9 foot box

P15 Front drum View Advert A front brake lower spring broke and ruined my right front drum. I need a front drum. 10", for a drum that will fit a 1948 P15. Advertiser 9 foot box Date 02/13/2019 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

That key looks like an Ilco XO1199b. It would be used for my 48 Plymouth door key. It fits the ignition also, but the hex shape is used there. The Ilco hex number is X1199B.

This is what my P15 clutch housing pan looks like. My book say's 36-54 Plymouth or Dodge , part number 860 309, Code 6-10-2. A band of felt type material is attached to the semi circle area. If you cut off the rear flange on yours and cut the front out to clear the pan, drill the four bolt holes and that one would work better than nothing. You can only get to the outside bolt holes without jacking up the rear of the engine, those bolts are right next to the rubber mounts.

It looks like a 52-53 B-series 1/2 ton Dodge truck, three speed column shift. The tab is for the e-brake cable. I just went and looked and I guess a 4 speed has the same cover.

Hey Tams50, Because your setting the tappets cold, my book say's .010" intake and .013" exhaust. At the top of this page is a Technical tab, click that and then tech tips. It's a very good read. The engine only has to be in two positions to set all the valves.

Could you notch the band in the center for clearance of the wheel and shift lever neutral position?

Allpar.com calls that the Power Pack kit, for the 1956. They say it used a Stromberg carb.

Airtex 73201 is a mechanical pump, that might work for you. Nice and straight Suburban, Shaney.

Would a 2K1089 starter drive, work?

That's a nice kit your getting together, Rich. Thank's for file.

My dimmer was bad and I replaced it with a Standard brand, DS52.

Andy, Your showing windlace. I think John is doing the rubber, door seal, weatherstrip. I don't see how you can do the hinge part of the door without removing the door. Old timer or not, you need help getting it off and on a padded work table. Before you start, you could ensure all hinge screws can be removed. Remove the sixteen screws one at a time and replace with anti-seize, make sure you can remove the pin in the door stop. When you have all your duck's in a row, roll the window down, open the door, take the pin out and start taking the bottom screws out first, on the hinges. With an assistant holding the latch end of the door, remove the top screws, set your screw gun down and grab the door at top to set down on a padding. Place on table, clean, glue, apply and reinstall the door back on car and shut the door. My end seam is at the middle front of door, others are at middle bottom. Clean as much of the door as possible before removal, then you only have to do the leading edge, once removed. If you do all the preliminary work, you should be able to do both doors in a day. 3M 08984 is a adhesive removal product, but I've used WD-40, where nothing else worked. But cleaning, is the key to a proper bond. I've seen what Dennis pointed out. It's a Steele Rubber install video. So, smearing and reapplication is the way to go. I have a 3M 08011 and a 08008 weather strip adhesive, the 08008 is labeled Super. Must be better? Brushes or popsicle sticks? Kinda long winded , hope it helps.

Hey Raindance, The tab you click is at top, under the color banner, under classifieds, Technical, click that, then tech tips.That's the article. You must have went to technical archives.

Doing a search the other day, I found Desert Valley Auto Parts.The south yard has vintage.