9 foot box

For my fluid changes I've been staying with GL-1. Thats what was made at the time, for all cars or trucks. The issue being that oil labeled EP has additives that are harmful to yellow metal.

Walker 15021B, seems to come up cheaper.

When I had this problem, it was a carbon like deposit in the air draft tube circuit, at the center intake opening.

Could a valve be stuck and the lifter is rattling. You have to remove the front wheel and inner fender to get to the valve covers, but you would see if thats the problem before more disassembly is needed.

Rock Auto has a Carter pump, angled or straight. M2091 or M2090 are the numbers. $37 or $65

From the speedometer the cable goes right to center of inner firewall then down and out the center floorpan hole. The one with the slot. It then runs to a cable clip at the front emergency brake bolt, then back to the gear in the straightest way. depends on cable clearance at e-brake assembly. So the cable is in view in front of your firewall pad in the stock setup, but thats the route.

It reminds me of how Lee Petty started out in his cars.

I replaced my shackle bushings last week. They are a Harris bushing. Old Mopar packaging show a HB 735. I looked it up at SDTruck Springs, and liked the measurements and squish factor better than the numbers you have been given and that come up at NAPA, which is a HB 850. I used NAPA #274-8735, put in with silicone valve sealant. They were for an early 1946 Plymouth Business Coupe, Special Deluxe. 1 3/4" spring with 2" shackle width. It comes up as fitting Chry., Dodge, Studebaker and 53-54 Chevy Belair. I think the books are wrong with what comes up, so thats how I cross referenced. I'm sure you could find the front bushings the same way. Rick D.

Try Metro Moulded Parts, WR2703 fronts. Rockauto has this part (window vent) for various models also.

I read somewhere that the diamond in the engine no. meant it had cast sleeves and the star indicated steel sleeves.