9 foot box

For a read from SEMA, I'd like to submit this article. I read this a couple years ago when I was concerned with mounting radial's on 16" lock ring wheel's. It's interesting that the drop center wheels pictured, are cracking or broken at the hub and not the flange. Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf

I think the lines are wrong on the block. Oil should flow to the outboard port of the filter and return out the bottom.

I wire brush what I can of a problem bolt, stud or nut and heat with a propane torch. It has to get as hot as possible, then thoroughly quench with water. Thermal contraction works when solvents don't. So, yes. Wire brushing, heating and quenching of your nuts and whatever you can get at to heat, will help a lot with your project. Not just heat. A Boilermaker told me this 45 years ago, and the next day, I tried it on a stubborn brass plug on a boiler I was working on. Made my day.

When you drain the old gas out, apply a pound or two of air pressure from before the pump back to the tank There is a filter in the tank that can clog with varnish. I rattled my plug on the tank with a 1/2" air gun till loose and dripping, and kept changing buckets. About 8 gallons of old 1979 to 89 gas in my latest car. I put a filter in before the pump to see if there was any other residue that would come through. It's been clean, so I'll probably replace with the flex hose.

We are having a failure to communicate. If I tell someone to put the clutch in, it's disengaged. If I said, let the clutch out, it would be engaged. Put the clutch in, meaning pedal to the floor, with the tranny in any gear you want. Bump the starter and it will free up your stuck clutch plate from the flywheel. It only takes a bump, but open the garage door if you think it's going to lunge forward and take you for a joy ride. I mentioned pre-starting in neutral, to lube what you can of the assembly, and try and prevent damage to the cork buttons when it comes free. Propping the pedal might free it after a few starts to lube the plate. PM me if you want a verbal explanation of what I'm trying to tell you. Every time I started my wifes' car I had to go though that ritual. It had new cork from a place in Florida, I think. But, I could not shift into any gear without grind till I started it in gear, with the clutch depressed and the plate came loose from the flywheel. Then we could drive it with no problem.

Looks like a good candidate to bring back to life, hi_volt. I have two P15 Bus.Cp's, so I'm partial to them.

This file is big, so it submits and opens better in three sections. Index of Steering Wheels and Dashboards.html

Some models had a spring loaded linkage, some a solid. Try getting the horizontal linkage to the carb pivot as straight as possible, if that doesn't work, check the short vertical rod for length to fully applied throttle. You might have to straighten it a bit where it bends. Someone with a heavy foot could have bent the linkage. Disconnect the throttle return spring , put a brick on the gas pedal and check it out. The adjustment was by bending the linkage, it seems. The spring type horizontal rod prevented bending of the linkage with full throttle pressure.

I was at a truck yard today and learned that Ford F6 and larger had 5 and 6 bolt 22.5 drop center wheels. Mavman probably has Ford wheels. The wheels I saw had 7.00x22.5 tires. They were on a B-series ton and a half. So, I'd look at Ford truck sites, An old post in one, a guy had a trailer load of these wheels for sale.

It was a pleasure to meet you and your wife. My first member meet. If I do a Pacific Northwest trip, I'll find Beaver Creek. Was the burnt truck still on the pass? It look's like he was pulling a camper and a fairly large sail boat from Florida and the pickup ignited somehow. It was a Dodge. I'll post the picture from today's newspaper, when I'm on my PC. Did you stop at that Cheney exit? I found another picture.

I bought the H-style from Restoration Specialties, no. 2322. I also bought some AuVeCo 12961A online. I am going to try those, because they are adjustable, and I will use a 10/24 nut with mastic seal. I've used 19378 trim clips, also. But, what plymjim just posted is my next buy. Thanks for another option jim.

It's tight because there is a lock nut on it. Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the pin a turn or more, tighten lock nut, and check latching. Check that your latch return spring isn't broken. If you run out of threads to lock the pin, take the end lock nut off, unscrew the pin and spring, put nut on pin 1/2-3/4", screw pin back in and lock the nut over the top of the spring. I own examples of both ways. Once you get it latching properly with maybe an 1/8" of free play, you will never have to slam it again. Two hands gently closing the hood into position and clicking into the latch. A bit of spray white grease keeps things working smoother.

What are the other applications for that wrench? The middle hex is 1.125" and fits the minor brake adjust. I haven't figured the spanner end, yet. The dust cap is 2.250".

The early Fords did use a Marmon-Herrington set-up. That's a 41. I didn't know how early they were used. A friend had a 4x4 49 Ford with a rocket 88. Back in 1970.

Thank's for sharing, Paul. That air trike is going to be one hell of a pucker factor ride. It needs a load of bricks that can be dropped and drug like an anchor. A museum like no other. If this place is close to where your staying, is your family going to see much of you for the next 2 months? Keep exploring, I love it. I'm sure you'll find the Dodges, and old junk yards of other relic's.