9 foot box

Allpar.com calls that the Power Pack kit, for the 1956. They say it used a Stromberg carb.

Airtex 73201 is a mechanical pump, that might work for you. Nice and straight Suburban, Shaney.

Would a 2K1089 starter drive, work?

That's a nice kit your getting together, Rich. Thank's for file.

My dimmer was bad and I replaced it with a Standard brand, DS52.

Andy, Your showing windlace. I think John is doing the rubber, door seal, weatherstrip. I don't see how you can do the hinge part of the door without removing the door. Old timer or not, you need help getting it off and on a padded work table. Before you start, you could ensure all hinge screws can be removed. Remove the sixteen screws one at a time and replace with anti-seize, make sure you can remove the pin in the door stop. When you have all your duck's in a row, roll the window down, open the door, take the pin out and start taking the bottom screws out first, on the hinges. With an assistant holding the latch end of the door, remove the top screws, set your screw gun down and grab the door at top to set down on a padding. Place on table, clean, glue, apply and reinstall the door back on car and shut the door. My end seam is at the middle front of door, others are at middle bottom. Clean as much of the door as possible before removal, then you only have to do the leading edge, once removed. If you do all the preliminary work, you should be able to do both doors in a day. 3M 08984 is a adhesive removal product, but I've used WD-40, where nothing else worked. But cleaning, is the key to a proper bond. I've seen what Dennis pointed out. It's a Steele Rubber install video. So, smearing and reapplication is the way to go. I have a 3M 08011 and a 08008 weather strip adhesive, the 08008 is labeled Super. Must be better? Brushes or popsicle sticks? Kinda long winded , hope it helps.

Hey Raindance, The tab you click is at top, under the color banner, under classifieds, Technical, click that, then tech tips.That's the article. You must have went to technical archives.

Doing a search the other day, I found Desert Valley Auto Parts.The south yard has vintage.

Thank You for the reply, Raindance. Being that you are new here, at the top of this page is a technical tab, it's a good read, for everyone.

In the store on this site is a starter for $75.

I think the large block hole prevents the weep hole in the pump from plugging. And it is a bypass, till the thermostat opens.

Desert Valley Auto Parts in Casa Grande, AZ has a bunch of cars of our vintage.

I notice the starter to solenoid cable is smaller gauge and you have 6 volt pos. ground alternator? When you test as Plymouthy Adams suggests, you should have a service manual. I have a ground cable to the block, another engine to frame, on the lower right side. And another 10 ga. wire from the starter area to the firewall. It could be the solenoid. Your tests at various points on the system, might show lower voltage to the starter. Assuming the starter nose bushing isn't elongated. And causing starter drag, under load. If you don't have a manual, maybe someone with more knowledge than me, can show page 93. Nice car, Raindance. Wire wheels look good. Where are you in Europe? More pictures of your car, would be nice. Your plug wire loom has an extremely long coil wire. Lots of resistance there. Or it could be timing?

Your welcome. I have never replaced a headliner. The dash out, would prevent damage to it. The A-pillars are not part of the headliner , it is covered by the tab on the door windlace and the garnish inner windshield moulding. Run those bows and pull the material front to rear into what looks tight and keep taunt . You should elaborate on your project. I would like to see what your working on.

A search for spiral wound door handle springs netted, joes auto door lock springs. Go look. That same search found joesantiqueauto.com . It's a Ford sight, but a lot of parts work for us. Wiper arm grommets, headlight bucket gaskets, dimmer switch, aux. lights to name a few.