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Old CWO last won the day on December 2 2018

Old CWO had the most liked content!

About Old CWO

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    Advanced Member

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    Not Telling
  • Location
    Northern Nevada
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B


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  • Interests
    Guns, Trucks and Curvy Women

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  1. Redline MTL/MTG are awesome but as you say, the price can be a bummer for some. Pennzoil Synchromesh is a great option at only $10 a QT if price is an issue.
  2. Old CWO

    rear end swap

    The XJ Cherokee 8.25 is definitely a good swap candidate, with the later 29 spline axles being the very best. That's what I run in my truck; 29 spline 8.25 with 3.55s. Be aware some XJs were equipped with Dana 35 rear axles vice the stronger Chrysler. The D35 is considered wimpy by Jeep guys but I believe it would be more than fine in a flathead Mopar. Both YJ and TJ Jeeps use rear axles the same width and bolt pattern as the XJ Cherokee so they will also work. I have seen people literally give away Wrangler D35 rear ends for free. Less common, but another great rear end that is the right width and wheel bolt pattern is the Ford 9" from a 71-73 Mustang.
  3. Anyone tried one of those new reproduction universal 1 bbl carbs? I think they are made off-shore (Brazil?) and marketed under the "Daytona" name among others. I have seen one that looks like a Holley 1904 and another that seems to be a Zenith style. They both have an externally adjustable main jet which is sort of a nice feature.
  4. This is really good advice. Sometimes the appliances and windows in them are worth more individually than the asking price so you end up with positive cash flow (not counting your labor!) I saw a 48-50 Ford F5 COE cab dropped on a Ford motorhome chassis at Hot August Nights a couple years ago. It was a super clean swap and the guy said it was reasonably easy. He ditched the original engine for a souped up Y block and had it lowered down to a hot rod stance. He used it to carry his little Model A roadster to car shows. Very cool. Lots of 70's motorhomes were Mopar based so there might be some good heavy duty drive train stock just sitting around in local fields and backyards unmolested.
  5. I have used quite a bit of that Corroseal in harsh marine environments - it's good stuff. Seemed to work better than the similar Ospho product. It will last a surprisingly long time without top coating, but priming and painting over it gives better results as expected.
  6. i'll take "things that never happened" for $600 Alex....
  7. Did you check with Stockton Wheel? They are known to fab up custom wheels for many different truck applications, I bet they can make something for you.
  8. I wonder if one could also make the S10 4x4 chassis work with that Code 504 kit. I think a B or C series Mopar 4x4 with some skinny bias ply mud tires would be a pretty cool rig too.
  9. Sounds smart to me, using serviceable stuff already in inventory is always a time and money saver. I interpreted your original post as to mean you were buying an engine not on hand, hence the question. I'm sure a slightly warmed up 318 with an OD trans and appropriate rear end gears will more than get the job done. Might not drink as much fuel as the bigger brother when not towing so that's a plus. Looking forward to seeing pictures of the progress. I bet the truck will ride, handle and stop a lot nicer than stock with the S10 front suspension - my understanding is that it's essentially GM G body parts.
  10. It sounds like you will have a very nicely updated truck when finished. I applaud keeping a Mopar powerplant. Question - why 318 instead of 360? Not criticizing, just curious as conventional wisdom would be that the torque of the 360 is better for towing.
  11. I think you are on the right track with troubleshooting the PCV system first based on your described symptom. If you had valve stem seals going bad or other internal engine issues I would expect to always have the oil burning, not just when idling for long periods of time. High manifold vacuum at idle is supposed to keep the the PCV mostly closed to flow. In your case it seems something is keeping the PCV open to flow when you are in that condition. Most common is of course vacuum leaks or stuck PCV. You should also check the PCV ventilation; if it's clogged or insufficient it can cause high crankcase pressure that will also exhibit this symptom. As far as the "snake oils." I would read the MSDS/PDS for the products in question before I used them for engine cleaning. Most of them are comprised of light oils, some solvents and something to make them smell distinct. I think MMO is stoddard solvent and wintergreen or something like that. Will it help with cleaning sludge? A little bit perhaps, but at the cost of lubrication effectiveness. Would you pour a pint of paint thinner into your oil? That's sort of what you would be doing. Many people swear by it, but I am not convinced. The best bet is drop the pans and manually remove any sludge, then fix the root cause of the sludge. With unleaded gas and modern motor oils, sludge is fairly rare unless the PCV system isn't working right or oil change intervals are virtually non-existent.
  12. It could work for something that requires an S10 box and has bucket seats.
  13. The ears on the case look GM passenger car pattern vice Ford. Hard to tell in the photo but that input shaft appears to me as a match for the S10; long bearing retainer, course spline (14?) and longish pilot bearing diameter area at the shaft tip. Measurements would prove all that out. Pretty sure that's a Mustang tail housing based on the rectangle shifter base and the casting number. My guess is that someone was building a Ford powered rig with a bench seat and robbed the S10 back half to move the shifter forward on a Mustang T5. They then slapped the Ford parts back on the S10 box and moved it along.
  14. Unfortunately the Blazer at the U Pull It yard is gone so no pictures or measurements of a factory A833 installation.
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