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Old CWO

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Old CWO last won the day on December 2 2018

Old CWO had the most liked content!

About Old CWO

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Northern Nevada
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B

Converted

  • Location
    Nevada
  • Interests
    Guns, Trucks and Curvy Women

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  1. I like that EZ bend nicopp stuff for most applications. In the U.S. it's available at the performance shops like Jegs and Summit. You can also usually get it at NAPA. One brand I see a lot is AGS, but there are others. Seems like I have heard mostly about Canadian (crappy) Tire or Princess Auto, perhaps they have it. It bends easy-peasy and is acceptable for brake and fuel. Polishes up nice too if that's your thing.
  2. Silly Yankees and Rebels, everyone knows the West is the Best, our old Mopars don't rust!
  3. If there is still a full service auto parts store in your area, see if they have a Dorman paper catalog. The catalogs used to have a section of part # by dimension; that may get you pointed in the right direction for a lower pulley.
  4. The VW kit I saw advertised online has a rotary compressor that is claiming to only use 1.5 HP. I am guessing it would work just fine and not be a burden if that number is true. The only other problem to solve might be cooling efficiency loss due to blocking the radiator with the condenser. Other than that I don't see why something like that little Beetle system wouldn't cool down a truck cab - it's claiming 13K BTU and 290 CFM of air exchange. Since I live in the desert, I am intrigued by the possibility of AC. If you do go down the path please post updates and photos, I would love to see it.
  5. No booster, manual brakes. The only way I see that you could do a booster is if you went to a hanging pedal. There is a little custom fitting involved with swapping to a modern MC but it isn't too bad.
  6. I have the same - 99 Cherokee. It is indeed a tight fit, but it works well, is affordable and came from a Chrysler product... Don't care for the "modern" plastic reservoir, but it's tucked down there low enough you don't really notice it.
  7. Cool looking car! My truck has a front disc conversion from TSM and I am very satisfied with it. It was easy to install and stops the truck well even with no power booster. They (TSM) show both front and rear conversion kits on the web site that look to fit your application. There are other kits out there as well, I am sure more folks will chime in. The fellas on this site run a little on the Mopar purist side, so expect getting the business about a Chevy swap. I am largely in this camp; GM stuff is well and good but keep your Mopar a Mopar. There's plenty of good chryco engines to play with if the rugged old flattie just doesn't do it for you. Heck, I'd rather see a Jeep 4.0 L6 under the hood of a Plymouth than a boring old tree-fiddy chebbie!
  8. My truck has an aftermarket interior set that is textured plastic rather than cardboard. It tucks into the channels above the visors and in the rear. It had push clips in the four holes on each side above the doors and a single sheet metal screw to the bracket in the overhead. That's all that held it in. My truck is a 5 window and the rear panel and pillars are a single piece that is separate from the headliner. It also clips in with the tension clips. It's obvious where they go when you look at it - there's 1/4" holes where the clips snap in. *EDIT* Mine looks just like Merle's except it's an atrocious 1970s style light blue... In the process of painting/dying it all a nice vintage brown like it should be.
  9. Isn't there an adapter that goes flathead Mopar to GM auto? It would sure be slick to have a TH700R4 or TH200-4R OD automatic instead of a three speed.
  10. Cummins 4BT/NV4500 combo? Industrial trucks deserve industrial engines!
  11. How about a 12V Cummins? Industrial trucks should have industrial engines!
  12. For those who plan to spray, some of the products discussed in this thread contain isocyanates and require proper protective equipment.
  13. You don't need the fancy stuff. Use foam rollers and brushes to apply a good coat of rusty metal red oxide primer. I like to thin it with mineral spirits and add a splash of enamel hardener. Once the primer is cured, paint the chassis with satin black tremclad once again thinned with mineral spirits and dashed with enamel hardener. I have done this on countless projects and you end up with a very durable and inexpensive coating system that lasts a long time and is easy to touch up.
  14. The wife and I will definitely be there Saturday. Unfortunately we're not bringing the Dodge this time - maybe next year after I get the T5 swapped in. I don't think the old beast is up for pulling the Carson Pass as it is. I can't trailer it down either as my other truck is too wimpy for the job.... We will, however, be bringing some genuine brewed in Reno Great Basin Ichthyosaur "ICKY" IPA as an apology of sorts for leaving the Dodge at home!
  15. I have been told by more experienced gents that you can simply swap to a 12v regulator and the 6v generator will be fine. If/when it quits, the local auto electric place can simply rebuild it to 12v specs while they have it.
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