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About Lloyd

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 12/20/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars mostly the 1930 era although 40's and 50's are pretty cool.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth P8 Deluxe. Almost on the road.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I talk to my cars.
  • Occupation
    Boat captain


  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars, mostly early 30's.

Recent Profile Visitors

593 profile views
  1. Lloyd

    overdrive transmissions

    I have a 39 P8. I swapped the original 201 with a 1950 218 and used the original bell housing from the 201. I know an R7 trans bolted up to the bell housing. The only problem I considered was my 39 had a cable actuated shifting mechanism which was unique to 1939. This meant I had to swap the steering column with a later model to get the standard shifting linkage. Any of the later column shift linkage would have fit the R7 and from what I was told the R10 as well. I then got an R6 OD. This was the OD trans available for the 39 and previous years. Then I swapped top plates from my original to the R6 and it bolted right in. The R6 I got originally came with a floor shifter. Not sure what kind of shift linkage a 37 has - does your original trans have a bolt on top plate or 2 shifting arms on the side? I would guess if you go with a floor shifter you should be able to use the R10. I would. May have to get the shifter to if your original had a top plate. Honestly I don’t see how it could be true you have to have a column shift to put an OD in. Lots of guys on here have an OD on the floor. Here’s a pic of the R6 with the top plate and cable shift.
  2. Lloyd

    What paint to use on wheel rims?

    Its 2K Urethane. Same paint you put on your car. If you have a compressor and paint gun you could get it cheaper by the quart. Put a couple clear coats over and it will be more durable. Better than enamel from a rattle can anyway. Although I’ve used rattle can paint before and it did OK. Lasted maybe a year. Thing is any paint is subject to scratching and chipping then rust. Proper prep and primer is a must. Spray can primer for enamel also pick up a couple cans clear coat. For Urethane I would use an epoxy primer and a Urethane clear coat. All spray gun. Never used powder coat so I can’t say yeah or neigh but if I was painting my wheels I believe I would try that because paint is something you will have to touch up after maybe a year or so when it catches chips, scratches, lug wrench circles. Will powder coat scratch as easily as paint? I don’t know.
  3. Lloyd

    676337 head

    Well. Based on the chart above looks like they used a lot of the same casting numbers thru the years. Casting number 1676337 was used from 1942-1960. So if the high compression head casting to look for is 1676337 and it was used on the 1957-59 engines it would have to be one with the internal bypass (hump). And the chart does show this at the first line. Appreciate the help from all. I learned a few things.
  4. Lloyd

    676337 head

    So did any of the engines continue with the external bypass after 1951?
  5. Lloyd

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Yep fuel filter or may have picked up some trash in the fuel pickup in the gas tank since going downhill is causing problems. When you have the carb top off as joe suggests check your float, inlet needle and seat to.
  6. Lloyd

    676337 head

    Well Greg you just blew it out the water. I’m thinking since the head I’m looking at does not have the hump it must be pre-50. Guessing the internal bypass didn’t start happening till later models. Possibly an upgrade in design from that point forward. So, the head I’m looking at might not be the high comp head I’m thinking it is. But you are saying internal or external was spread out thru the years from early on till late. So looking for the hump is not a tell tale factor. My engine is a 218 with a 230 crank so I’m guessing the piston should come up to about level with the deck. It has the original 218 head. I had my machinist resurface the Head but did not cc it. Wish I would have checked all this before I put it together. Pulling a head on these engines ain’t all that much though and I would like to know what my CR is and then possibly look at bumping it up a little depending on what it is.
  7. Lloyd

    676337 head

    Thank you Shelny, I've been looking for a picture of that. Its obvious the head I'm looking at does not have that bump. Did some research on this internal/external water passage. I had seen it mentioned but did not know what it was about. Whole idea of a bypass was to help provide for more even warm-up reducing hot spots plus let the warmer water come into contact with the thermostat sooner. Seems it removed the water connection on the thermostat housing and the water pump seen on early engines such as mine. So a different thermostat housing and top fitting for the water pump would be required. As far as water pump either type can be used but the backing plate may have to be swapped out to accommodate the extra port on the newer head. Appreciate the input guys.
  8. Lloyd

    676337 head

    Heres a couple pics. First two is the 1676337-2 and the second one is the head on my 39. I havnt got the head yet but from tte pic The only bump I see from this angle is the middle one where the head bolt goes thru.
  9. Lloyd

    676337 head

    Thanks dpollo for the information. But I’m not sure where to look for the extra water passage. I’ve only seen two heads. A 1939 201 and a 1950 218. The thermostat housing fit both. The numbers I gave were not part numbers. They are casting numbers. Looking at the numbers I gave I see I missed the first number. The correct casting number I’m asking about is: 1676337-1 using the first 7 numbers before the dash in a search brings up a few previous topics like this one .
  10. Lloyd

    676337 head

    That was my thoughts as well. But this is suppose to be the high compression head for a 230. I seen it on an early post and I think it took a 230 to almost 8. But yeah. I’ve already started reading up on cc’ing a head. Don’t look to hard. Looks like I’ll need a buret. Couldn’t have told you what that was till an hour ago. Thanks.
  11. Lloyd

    676337 head

    No. The 218 head is working on the engine. I haven't got the 230 head. I have to buy it. I just don’t know if it will give me a bit more or not and if there may be some things I should or could look at beforehand. From older posts I read these heads bumped a 230 up to 7.7-8. I believe by stroking my 218 I took it to a 230. So putting this head on should do the same?
  12. Lloyd

    676337 head

    I have a chance to pick up a head casting number 676337-1 Ive read on some older posts this is one of the higher compression heads on the late 230’s. My engine is a plymouth 1950 218 that I have stroked with a 230 crank. I re-installed the original 218 head with only a resurfacing done. Question is would swapping out the original 218 head for this higher compression 230 head give me a higher compression ratio?
  13. That’s great you got it figured out. Thanks for posting the problem.
  14. Wet plugs would indicate flooding. But sooty plugs can be a rich mixture. Switching to a hotter plug may help, unless Plymouthy's suggestion concerning point float is right. Which would suggest that there is nothing wrong with the carb, its just not getting fire at higher rpm's. So how do you check for point bounce or float? Heres a troubleshooting page from the B&B service manual that may help: (1) Black Smoke from exhaust pipe and sooty deposit on spark plugs caused by rich mixture. (a) High float level. Reset to specifications (tables IV to XI, pars. 28, 44, 61, 78, 95, 109, 124, and 140). (b) Too large metering jet or a too small metering rod. Check specifications (tables IV to VIII, pars. 28, 44, 61, 78, and 95). Replace jet or rod. (c) Nozzle installed without a nozzle gasket, when one is required. ( d) Metering iet or nozzle looae. Tighten jet or nozzle plug. (e) Pump relief port clogged. Clean port. (I) Air bleed hole (in air bleed nozzle) stopped up. Clean nozzle. (g) Hole in main vent tube clogged. Install new tube. (h) High fuel pump pressure. Repair or replace fuel pump. ( i) Metering rod spring not connected to metering rod. Connect spring. (j) Clogged air cleaner (outside vented carburetor).. Clean. air cleaner. (k) Warped bowl cover or damaged bowl cover gasket (inside vented carburetor). Replace bowl cover or gasket. (I) Vacuum pasaage to step-up piston clogged (B-B carbtur retora) . Clean passage. (m) Wrong flange gasket used (B-B carburetora). Refer to paragraph 113d (2) . (n) Flange gasket leaking allowing air to enter vacuum pasaage to step-up piston (B-B carburetor). Replace gasket. (o) Step-up piston stuck in cylinder due to gummy deposits (B-B carburetor). Clean piston and cylinder.· (p) Two gaskets used under step-up piston, keeping step-up rod from seating (B-B carburetors). Remove one gasket. (q) Stretched metering rod spring (Y-S carburetor). Replace sprng. (r) Worn or ruptured metering rod diaphragm (Y-S carbu,retor). Replace diaphragm. (s) Passage to vacumeter cylinder blocked (WOD carburetor). Clean passage. (t) Vacumeter piston atuck in cylinder (WOD carburetor). Clean piston and cylinder. (u) Choke stuck partially closed. Centralize choke valve. Repair or replace choke linkage and/ or choke control cable. Repair automatic choke if used (par. 77).
  15. Lloyd

    1939 business coupe build

    LOL. Sure I’ll send that to. Get me your address. Should have them headed your way by Wednesday. I also have my old cloisonné - I think that’s what it’s called. The little emblem that attaches to the front of the center chrome strip. It’s scruffed up some but may get you by till you find a better one. BTW. I like the color you painted your coupe.

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