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Lloyd

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  • Content count

    375
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Lloyd

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 12/20/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars mostly the 1930 era although 40's and 50's are pretty cool.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth P8 Deluxe. Almost on the road.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I talk to my cars.
  • Occupation
    Boat captain

Converted

  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars, mostly early 30's.

Recent Profile Visitors

375 profile views
  1. K&N Air Filter

    Found an adapter ring on Speedway Motors website that may work. Still have to use the Air Cleaner Adapter, but then hopefully I can get the ring over the adapter. It looks to be about 1/16" to small. I should be able to take that off with a small round file. Might add a couple more set screws to the ring. I'm at work right now and will be a while before I make it back home but when I do I'll post some more pics of the result. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/K-N-60-1140-Air-Filter-Assembly-3-5in-Tall-Red-Round,158003.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Diameter-Air-Cleaner-Adapter-Ring-2-5-16-Inch-to-2-5-8-Inch,139472.html?OriginalQuery=91511661 http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Air-Cleaner-Adaptor_p_3016.html
  2. more engine questions

    So it looks like 1949 was a change in hp for the 218. Since bore and stroke are the same then the increase in hp is in the head or cam - or both? If so could you put a 218 head on a 230 and increase compression?
  3. more engine questions

    There will be a difference in the bolt pattern on back flange of the cranks as well. I believe the 218 had 4 bolts and the 230 has 8?? Depending on the flywheel and starter combination you are using this could require some mods. I swapped a 230 crank into a 218 and had to get holes drilled into my flywheel plus mill the area where the starter bolted up so it would fully engage the flywheel. Don Coatney has a post explaining this procedure. Of course some say the extra holes were not necessary but I went ahead and did it.
  4. Carburetor Blues

    Thanks for the clarification Don. I was wrong for using the term 'porting' in the first place. What I intend to do is just add the bevel on my original intake manifold where the carb mounts like the bevel on the dodge truck manifold I have in the pics above. Then mount the bigger bore Carb on it and see what happens. Hopefully it will become the magic bevel..
  5. K&N Air Filter

    Yep that was you. The K&N’s are 2-5/8 ID base compared to the adapter which is 2-3/8 OD. I have been looking high and low for a pipe with a 2-3/8 ID and 1/8” thick wall. Don’t believe there is such a critter. I’ve found that exhaust pipe is about 1/16” thick wall. Thinking I’ll have to just get the filter assembly and adapter and start plugging stuff in to see if it fits. Trial & error.
  6. K&N Air Filter

    I see. So the filter assembly base just slides over your adapter. So if I get the clamp adapter and the K&N filter assembly I will need to make an adapter then fasten them together. thanks don. Appreciate it.
  7. K&N Air Filter

    Thanks don. How did you fasten the K&N filter base to your adapter?
  8. K&N Air Filter

    I swapped carbs and since my last one had a straight flange and the new one has a bevel flange I need to get another air filter assembly. I am looking at the adapter and air cleaner in the links below. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Air-Cleaner-Adaptor_p_3016.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/K-N-60-1140-Air-Filter-Assembly-3-5in-Tall-Red-Round,158003.html I know that the adapter has a 2-3/8 inch top and the filter base has a 2-5/8 inch opening. I read on a previous post where someone used an exhaust pipe as a shim so I'm planning on about the same. Cant seem to find a filter assembly with a 2-3/8 inch opening and I've spent the last 3 hours looking. Reading previous post it seems K&N is the filter to go with other than original oil bath seems to be a lot for those as well. But I want to go with the K&N. The question I have is how do these K&N filter assemblies mount and secure on the carburetor or in my case the adapter? I cant find any images of the base of the assembly except a few that may show a bit of it. Seems its just a short flange that slips over the carb. So if it just slips over this adapter how would it be secured? Hopefully not by drilling holes...
  9. Carburetor Blues

    Nope. I have a hand held grinder, a bench grinder and a drill press. That’s it. I’m fine with a machine shop. I only got the one intake... Friendswood ain’t that big. But Houston is. To big. My wife and I bought some acreage and are building a house in lake lure NC. Hopefully be there by the end of this year. Retirement time for me.
  10. Carburetor Blues

    Might have a while before he can help. Yeah these bases are always worn. Every time I rebuild a carb I go thru bases wiggling the shaft. Gotta be a way to renew them. I read on a post someone used thin brass leafs wrapped around the shaft. The meet sounds like fun. Hopefully I can make one some day. Be great to shop around and also look at some other rides. Maybe get some ideas or just see how others did things.
  11. Carburetor Blues

    Hello mr Adams. Not sure I follow you. True a shaft is to straighten? Or re-sizing the shaft to fit the new bushing? Probably both. Anyway sounds like machine shop work. How would they do it? Install new bushings and align or install a solid shaft and drill it out to fit the throttle shaft. One other question. I have never ported an intake, heads or anything. I’ve only heard of it. If I wanted to put a bevel on my intake where the carb mounts can I do that or should a machine shop do it?
  12. Carburetor Blues

    Hey Andy. How you been. I’m putting the smaller carb back on now and charging my battery. Speaking of throttle shaft leakage. It would be nice to be able to repair worn out bases. I know the shaft itself can be worn as well but all I can think of is drilling out and replacing the bushings in the base. Course now you would have to find the bushings.
  13. Carburetor Blues

    Good morning all, While back I saw a post by Tim Kingsbury mentioned using the larger carb such as dodge trucks used. These carbs have a 1-11/16" bore as compared to the stock one on my 39 which is 1-9/16". That sounded like an easy way to open up the intake some so over the past months I've been kicking that can down the road. I bought a 50-58 dodge truck 1-11/16" bore E7T2 carb off eBay and it looked NOS. Real good shape. Then got a kit for it and went thru it. Originally my 39 came out with a 201 but I swapped it with a 218 and but still used the original intake from the 201, the current carb I had on this engine was a 53-54 Plymouth 1-9/16" bore D6U1 which I rebuilt as well. On the pic of the two carbs that shows the linkage arms - the one on the left is the D6U1 and the linkage arm is from the carb that was on the original 201 in the car. It was cracked, still worked but it is cracked, so when I first installed the rebuilt D6U1 I used a base with the different linkage such as the one shown on the E7T2, the carb on the right. Not knowing that this base had the larger bore, in fact I didn't know anything about this bore difference in these carbs till I saw Tims post. When I first started this engine with the D6U1 I had problems with a rough idle. My first thoughts was that I must have messed up rebuilding the D6U1somewhere. But after reading Tims post I decided to just swap to the larger carb and hopefully this would take care of things. When I first put the E7T2 on the car it ran worse than the D6U1. So I took it back off and it was at this time I noticed that the base I had used on the D6U1 was for the larger bore carbs. I swapped it back to the correct base and used the original linkage arm that was on the car. Then placed it back on the car. When I started the engine it idled like a champ. Since Ive had this car I have managed to scrounge up a number of different carburetors for it. Mostly just to have around for parts. Looking at the bases of these carbs I've noticed some have a mounting peg for the fast idle cam that is thicker then others. All the ones I have with the thicker peg are for the larger bore carbs. Smaller diameter pegs are for the smaller bore carbs. I posted a pic of the two bases in front of the carbs. Not sure if this is definite but with what I have that's the case. When I first mounted the E7T2 on my engine I could see the difference looking down the throttle bore. The edges of the intake stuck out into the bore. Thinking this may be why the carb would not idle well I found an intake on eBay for a 1952 dodge truck assuming it would be for the larger bore carb. After getting the intake I miked the diameter of the bore on my original intake manifold from a 1939 Plymouth 201 and compared it to the dodge truck intake. They are identical. Only difference I see is the dodge intake appears to be ported with a slight bevel to fit the larger bore. Ive included pics looking down the large bore carb base mounted on both intakes, the 201 intake and the dodge truck intake. Same carb base, different intakes. This may be old news to some but it appears that if I want to use the larger carb all I really might consider is porting the original intake manifold for the 201. The truck intake will fit but the intake drops the height of the carb by a full 1-3/4". I'm not going to use it.. I have to say that heading down this path has really been a can of worms but on the other hand its been a learning experience. I'm still not sure if the lack of porting on the original 201 manifold with the E7T2 mounted on it caused such a rough idle, I have my doubts. But yet when I swapped the correct base to the D6U1 it solved everything. I am considering porting the original 201 manifold and trying the E7T2 again.....
  14. 1938-1951 Autolite Parts Catalog View File 1951 Edition Autolite Service and parts catalog - ignition and generator parts from 1938-1951. Submitter Lloyd Submitted 01/27/2018 Category Reference Information  
  15. Carter B & B Service Manual View File Rebuild information and specifications, part numbers and other information regarding Carter Ball & Ball carbs from about mid 40's to late 50's. Submitter Lloyd Submitted 01/27/2018 Category Reference Information  
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