Jump to content

Lloyd

Members
  • Content count

    410
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Lloyd

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 12/20/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars mostly the 1930 era although 40's and 50's are pretty cool.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth P8 Deluxe. Almost on the road.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I talk to my cars.
  • Occupation
    Boat captain

Converted

  • Location
    Friendswood Texas
  • Interests
    Old cars, mostly early 30's.

Recent Profile Visitors

493 profile views
  1. Straight 6 Engine 218 CI - Rebuild

    A lot of times due to milage a rebuild at the machine shop for these engines calls for a cam regrind, turning the crank and boring the cylinders. In which case your machinist will usually get new pistons, rings and the appropriate rod and main bearings for you. As Greg stated above everything else like fuel, water pumps, gaskets are going to be the same. DJ stated to check the ID number and find out what year the engine was produced just to be sure which would be a good thing to do before you buy anything. At least when you do ask for anything you will be able to give them the year of the engine. I have a 1950 218 in my 39 P8. So when I shop for engine parts naturally I say its a 1950 218.
  2. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    I believe what Greg is concerned about is the breaker plate moving with the vacuum advance. If you still show hot on the points terminal with the points closed then they are not grounding. Disconnect the wires from the points terminal and use your ohm meter on each side of the points with the points closed. Do you have continuity? If not then check the contact areas of the points themselves. Make sure they are clean and not burnt. You can also keep one lead on the terminal and touch the other lead to the contact area of the same side. Should have continuity. Do the same to the other side. If you can get your leads in there, you can also close the points and then touch each contact area - just the tiny edge of the contact pad of each side and see if you get continuity. Then keep one lead on the hot side of the points and take the lead you have on the opposite side of the points and place it on the base plate of the points, then place it on the plate the points attach to, then touch it to the ground wire, both sides, then place it on the housing of the distributor. Keep chasing the path the electricity should be going to ground leaving one lead on the hot terminal until you get continuity. Wherever you get it and don't get it there is a break. If you think you have a grounded wire you can check that to by disconnecting both ends and then using your ohm meter touch an end of the wire and touch the other lead to a ground. You can also check if a wire is broken inside just by disconnecting both ends and checking both ends with your ohm meter. One possibility might be the condenser is shorted out. Did you try disconnecting it from the points terminal, opening the points and see if you still have a light? You have an ohm meter and it works really good for checking connections if you just sit back and think about what your system should and should not be doing.
  3. 1939 Plymouth headlights

    I gotcha. That appears to be what the owner did in the pic I posted earlier. Not sure how he did it. I’m keeping my lights original, 6 v and all. I have read a few posts about the lights being to dim so I guess I’ll find out. Worst part is the reflectors. It’s hard to get a decent set and to get them resilvered is expensive. Be intersted to see what you figure out. Good luck.
  4. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    I see you are bench testing. Is the distributor housing grounded? You should install the condenser as well.
  5. 1939 Plymouth headlights

    The original lens has grooves on the outside. I would guess it’s to either diffuse, direct, intensify or all three the light bulb. Not sure how it would do in front of a sealed beam if the sealed beam had its own lens. Another option I’ve seen is to swap the socket and use a halogen bulb in the original setup. Couple links that might be of interest. https://www.streetrodhq.com/dept/Lights.html http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/page3.html
  6. Noises?

    You can check a timing chain by rocking the crankshaft back and forth and watching the distributor rotor. Turn the crank by hand till the rotor starts turning then slowly turn the crank the other way. The amount you turn the crank before the rotor turns will give you an idea of how much slop is in the chain. The crank and cam are connected by the chain and the cam turns the distributor.
  7. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    Not at all. Welcome to the forum. Over the years I’ve got a lot of help from here. It’s the best on the net for Chrysler’s. Sounds like the ground wire you are disconnecting and I don’t see how disconnecting that wire will put fire to the points. Unless it’s hooked up wrong to begin with. Like to see what wire it is. Should be a wire from the coil and the condenser wire connected to the points terminal. Then a ground wire from the base plate to the stationary side of the points.
  8. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    Thats the ground wire you are disconnecting? It should go from the base plate - the very bottom plate to the stationary side of the points - the bottom plate the points mount on. Have you got a pic of it connected and disconnected?
  9. 1939 Plymouth headlights

    Congratulations on your car. Yep you would have to make custom something if you want to install the sealed beams into the original buckets. Heres a pic of someone that installed sealed beams using the original trim rings but I would guess modified the buckets to accept the sealed beam. You can see he did not use the 39 original glass lens but did use the original trim ring.. The SB light is inset into the bucket. Not sure if its the original bucket or not. I would look at mounting the entire sealed beam assembly from the vehicle you take it from inside the original bucket. Or make a new bucket to fit the car. In either case may be better to at least plan on using the original trim ring. -- Unless you want to fill the fender hole in, do some body work and use the trim ring the sealed beam came with. Another option is like Plymouthy mentioned above, they had kits for these cars to convert them to sealed beam way back then. I see them on eBay every now and then. The complete kit NOS aint cheap but a lot of 39 owners use them. But at least you will not need to go thru any modifications.
  10. Is 180 psi in engine ok?

    Guess im confused. The rings are stuck but the engine spins? Stuck in the piston grooves?? I think Keith had a good point since two valves were stuck. Be a good idea to test for valve sealing and use some lapping compound on them. An old trick for compression checks is to test each cylinder, write it down and then add just a spoonful of oil into the cylinder and recheck. A noticeable increase can show compression loss at the rings. Even so, even with low compression and a good spark should get something. Also I think when talking compression it’s more important to look at individual compression results for each cylinder. Not add them up. I thought it was 180 per also!
  11. Fuel pressure

    No not necessarily an internal lube problem. It could well be an improper install. All fuel pump levers will show normal wear, but the steel on a cam shaft is harder than the steel on a fuel pump lever, the lever should wear out - or show much more damage on an improper install and quit working before the camshaft does. Unless normal wear and numerous fuel pumps have worn down the lobe, in which case the entire cam may be worn. Anyhow my point is I would be surprised if the lobe is worn out so much that it no longer actuated the fuel pump. Unless the entire cam has reached that point. So before I really listened to someone telling me that I would check myself. You can do so by putting a fuel pump on and see what happens. I'll bet it pumps fuel. If it does not and the front lobe does appear to be damaged then I would pull the cam shaft for further inspection. I would agree the cause of the over rich fuel mixture is probably in the carburetor.
  12. Fuel pressure

    If and I mean if - the lobe for the fuel pump is so worn it won’t lever the fuel pump then he may have an oiling issue or need to remove and inspect the entire can shaft for wear.
  13. Newtons law

    I’ve found trying to remove a bolt or nut it helps to loosen till it stops then tighten it back up. Blow the threads off. Maybe a wire brush then blow the threads off. Loosen again trying to go a little more. Then tighten. Back and forth. Turning it straight off can well snap the bolt. Even if it budged a little.
  14. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    make certain the points contacts are clean. If they are clean then not burnt. You can use your multi meter to check continuity from one side to the other. Disconnect the coil wire and condenser from the points terminal hen place one lead on the points terminal and the other to a ground. Points open continuity 0. Points closed voltage flowing. Make certain the condenser screw is tight.
  15. Fuel pressure

    Cam lobe for the fuel pump turns just as many times as a cam lobe for a lifter..
×