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Bmartin

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Bmartin last won the day on June 19 2015

Bmartin had the most liked content!

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About Bmartin

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 12/30/1973

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mesa, AZ
  • Interests
    All things Automotive, Jeeps, 4 wheeling, Rock Crawling, Hiking, Backpacking,
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Plymouth Business Coupe<br />
    2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    big, bald, and ugly
  • Occupation
    Electrical Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Az
  • Interests
    Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

757 profile views
  1. Thanks for the input. I realize now that I'll be muscling it all back together as a unit. Perhaps that is the easiest route as it avoids any dissection of the OD itself. If I can't find a spreader spring, then I'll clean this one up a bit and use it. The back side has some wear marks in it that I can easily catch with my finger nail.
  2. I ran into an issue. The Spreader Spring is not longer available from Northwest Transmission. Does anyone have any other sources for this? I'll try Ebay, but its unlikely I'll get that lucky.
  3. 9 foot box: thanks for the advice, I will look into that when I am ready to reassemble. James_Douglas: Thanks for the background, I will PM you my email address. I would love to have any and all info I can get. The more literature I have as reference the better I can triple check everything. rekbender: I was incorrect, the spreader spring is in the clutch hub as you show. Sorry for the confusion. Laynrubber: Thanks, thats the second vote I've gotten for Northwest. I'll be calling them tomorrow.
  4. JohnS48plm: Thanks for the source, I'll check them out!
  5. Thanks for all the replys! laynrubber: If you could point mein the direction of a good source for parts, that would go a long way to helping me out. Much appreciated. DJ194950: Sounds like I took it apart the way it has to go, so thats reassuring. Ill just have to muscle it back together when the time comes. At least I don't have to deal with the OD internals. Thanks. rekbender: That is extremely helpful! Makes sense, since the other manual I have is for a 1940 Plymouth. So its not there either. Its definitely a part I'd like to swap to be safe. It shows some wear, but I would be surprised if its the ulitmate reason for my issues. oldasdirt: Looks like that spreader spring got introduce later on, so an older manual shown above is big help. The OD worked great so no worries there, just wanted to make sure I was dissembling things correctly. Its far from a basket case, I can get it back together in a couple hours with my buddies help. Just want to doublecheck if I can. Thanks for the help.
  6. I have an R10 overdrive that has shifting issues in 2nd. It’s a fresh rebuild, but it grinds into 2nd gear. I picked up the Overdrive book from fifthavegarage but its different than what I have. I’m guessing its geared more towards a Ford/Chevy/Lincoln. Anyway, I got the OD off the trans, but the main shaft came with it. I’m looking for a manual that will apply to this specific transmission, I’m guessing its going to be a mopar manual from a car that this trans came in from the factory. If someone could point me to the correct manual, that would be much appreciated. Along those same lines, I’d like to find some parts for it. I need a new gasket kit, possibly a rear output seal if that has to come out, and the welch plugs. I’d also like to replace the sychronizer shifting plates if possible as they are showing a little wear. The syncrhos look brand new. I need to know where to find parts. When disassembling, I thought the spacer between the trans and OD would stay with the OD, but its bolted to the OD. So when reassembling, I’d like to get the main shaft out of the OD and installed in the trans first. Then put the OD on. Seems it would be easier to get the roller bearings on the main shaft. I’ll need the correct manual to do that safely. Lastly, I have a question on what this part is. Its some sort of spring, but I can’t see it in either the manuals I have. It was on the 2nd gear synchro. All help is greatly appreciated.
  7. I tightened down that nut but it does not stay and loosens up over time from the movement. As long as its supposed to be square, I will get it fixed up so that it is good for the long hall. Its out already anyway.
  8. Sorry, the text is on the bottom, not sure what happened. The gear selector rod on my Plymouth has an hour glass shape to it as does the bracket. I'm about to take it to a gentleman who can weld them up and make them square. I just wanted to make sure that this is the way it was from the factory. Its an odd wear pattern to me, and almost looks intentional with the way it pivots in the bracket. So, is this supposed to be square?
  9. Not sure if it was here or the HAMB but there was a write up with pics of a guy who had two sets of stock uprights. He cut the kingpin boss off of one set and welded it up higher. Somehow used the other set for alignment. Hopefully you can search better than I can. Its up to you on whether or not you think welding to cast steel is safe. Of course this still may not solve your interference issue because I don't remember if he swapped to disc's or not. EDIT: Looks like it was olddaddy. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/reversing-the-uprights-on-1940-plymouth-coupe.125109/
  10. I think I am going to hang on to them for now. I may use them in the future.
  11. If I remember correctly, fatman requires a disc brake conversion for the uprights. I've got a set of their uprights that I have swapped in and out to try and get the right height. I have a 40. The main issue I had is that the Fatman uprights push the wheels out somewhere along the lines of 1/2". This was too much for me as the tires are tucked and already close to the fender. It put my tire right into the fender. The disk brakes actually kick the track wider as well. More like 1/4", but with it being this tight, everything matters. I went with cut Moogs on mine and the ride is firm but good.
  12. I will say that the engine acts different, but not a cure. Seems like less stumbling at tip in but goes quickly to choking at any more throttle. Its not very consistent.
  13. When spraying fuel at the base of the carb around the spacer, do I need to worry about any secondary effects? I noticed that the starter fluid has a cooling effect. If the idle goes down, can I be sure that a vaccum leak is causing that?
  14. He has not been all that helpful. I'm in AZ and he is in PA so there is the trouble of working over the phone.
  15. For reference, this a fresh built engine, built by George Asche, carbs and all. I worked on the balance and got them about 90%, still struggling with the linkage adjustment. Still no change.
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