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Andydodge

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Everything posted by Andydodge

  1. Andydodge

    Intake + Exhaust manifold removal

    Mike.......dunno if this helps at all but here in Oz I have found at least THREE different exhaust manifolds to suit the 23" Dodge/Plymouth engine.........this was when I was playing with a 230 engine and being a RHD car the engine was going into, the various US/LHD aftermarket headers such as the Fentons and other versions would not fit due to the RHD steering box being in the way.............what I found was that there is an exhaust manifold that dumps between cylinder 2 & 3, another that dumps between cylinders 5 and 6 and a third exhaust manifold that dumps at cylinder # 7(well where a 7th cylinder would be......lol)......as you can see in this attached pic I was able to use one of each of the 1st two style manifolds and remove the heat box and the front/rear of the manifolds and get a local blacksmith to weld up the open ends making a neat pair of split manifolds.............now I don't know if any of this is relevant to your situation but I thought it may help in chasing down the correct manifold to suit your car..............lol.........maybe......and I am doubtful if the three manifolds I mention had anything to do with the RHD arrangement also...............regards from Oz..........Andy Douglas
  2. Andydodge

    Another Aussie onboard

    Nice car..........from what I can see of the front number plate I assume you are in NSW?.............I'm in South Grafton.............from being RHD I gather its a TJ Richards body, where are you?.............you know that a non mopar gearbox swap will involve redoing the gearbox mounted rear mounts and connecting the handbrake up to the Frod rear axle, which I also assume has its handbrake stuff still inside the brake drums..........how stock is it apart from the diff and lowering?............I'm a hotrodder so I can live with any mods........lol..........I've had my car since 1971, its V8 since 1973, and have collected a bit of info such as Oz shop manuals etc.........email is scaleautomobilia@hotkey.net.au or phone 02 6642 5963 .........welcome aboard, Andy Douglas
  3. Andydodge

    FOUND THIS AWESOME DODGE RAM RADIATOR REPRODUCTION

    Nice, I've got a 1934 version that my grandfather gave me probably 40 yrs ago, he replaced it on the car he had back in the 1940's as the area where the actual cap attached had corroded and the cap came loose so its only fit as an ornament........andyd
  4. Andydodge

    Running boards for a 1941 Dodge D19 Luxury Liner

    Roof, .even if your boards are rusted out would they be suitable or have enough left for the guy to use them as a pattern to then enable him to have a Dodge Template?...........my understanding is that the front and rear shape where they meet the fenders would/ should be the same as the Plymouth boards so it would be the extra 2" in the centre which literally maybe just an extra 2" which may allow the Plymouth template to be adjusted or not..............anyway have you his phone number as I'd like to call him about doing a single board? .........thanks, andyd
  5. Andydodge

    Introduction from Australia

    Mick had a lot of build pics on the Oz Rodders site.............we corresponded a bit as I had the 41 Plymouth Coupe at the time..........andyd
  6. Andydodge

    Running boards for a 1941 Dodge D19 Luxury Liner

    I just did an ebay USA search under "Plymouth Running Boards" and a guy from Cana(?), Virginia listed 1937-1939 Plymouth Running boards, when his advert is opened he states that he also does them for 1940-41 Plymouth AND DODGE cars...........I'd be getting in touch with him to start with.............and ask him if he does single ones as thats all I need, a 1941 Plymouth US passenger side.........lol......Andy Douglas.
  7. Andydodge

    Introduction from Australia

    Couple of questions.......what intake is on the poly?........Mick had an Edelbrock P600 triple setup but had it for sale recently.......and have you got an engine pic of the boat?.......lol..........andyd
  8. Andydodge

    54 desoto

    Theres a wire inside the dissy that can short out due to the insulation cracking, also is the vacuum unit working.........I'd start from scratch.......checking the timing on TDC, all the plug wires and their crimped on connectors, check plug & point gap, also you had a shop play with the carby..........did they know what they were doing?................maybe recheck the carby yourself as it sounds like you couldn't do any worse........I assume you have a shop manual to go thru anyway.......BTW......welcome aboard......got any pics, we all love pics................lol.....regards from Oz........Andy Douglas
  9. Andydodge

    What ujoints to use on a explorer rearend

    I'd take both driveshafts to a shop that makes driveshafts or at the least an engineering place that can spin the shafts & cut them on a lathe........my most recent exercise required the driveshaft from an Oz Ford to suit the Ford rear axle and as I have the cast iron T/flite and driveshaft handbrake I took the Chrysler shaft as well to the shop, so I have the Chrysler sliding yoke & uni joint at the front and Ford uni joint at the rear of the Ford driveshaft..................I personally wouldn't use ball & trunion joints if that is what you have.........so I'd get a complete Explorer driveshaft to start at least.........what gearbox are you running, that will determine what front joint etc you use and generally which shaft used depends on the diameter of the shafts and which is the better one to shorten which will depend on the width of the flanges etc on each shaft..........measure twice or thrice but DO NOT CUT as you can be almost certain that you will cut in the wrong place.........thats why its a job for the MAN......or at least a shop...........lol..............and BTW my cars driveshaft has not been balanced although I would have preferred that have been done, but the shop that made it also has many years experience doing local speedway and other race car driveshafts and did a great job but as they are a general engineering & fabrication shop are not setup to do balancing.......and it works fine.......regards, Andy Douglas
  10. Andydodge

    Steering Pittman Arm Installati

    Conn, as Tim says it should only go on one way as the splines have a large locating spline that must be lined up on both the pitman shaft and pitman arm....also some setups do not have a castellated nut and cotter pin, rather they have a standard type of hex nut and a spring washer.......I've seen both types over the years................andyd
  11. Andydodge

    BobDesoto

    Welcome aboard from Oz.............unless theres trick to working on a 1951 DeSoto I'd lift the carpet around the front seat base, find the bolts and undo them......as for the rear seat the base usually just lifts up and out.....the seat back MAY have a couple of small bolts accessable after the seat bottom is out or possibly from the trunk side...........best thing would be to look at whats there..............andyd
  12. Andydodge

    46 plymouth rack and pinion

    I've had a rack & pinion in my Dodge since 1973 and have installed late model "normal" steering boxes in a couple of different mopar over the years.......its not rocket science BUT its not a straight forward job either............if you want a rack & pinion then thats relatively straight forward now that there are some kits to install the cavalier racks, however my understanding is that they require due to the nature of the install that you use a late model column and a floor shifter for the trans which is usually attached to an engine swap as well............if you have installed the rack and want the original wheel then you have to find an adaptor to mount the wheel to a late column or if using the original column then the column mounted shifter complicates the issue and then you have to work out some way to allow the shifter tube to work and at the same time attach some sort of uni joint etc to connect up the steering to the aforementioned rack & pinion.......the overall "easiest" way would be the use a late model column and a separate floor shifter which then means you just have to adapt the steering wheel............maybe find a shop which can modify the wheel to suit or use one of the various aftermarket 50's style GM steering wheels which without the GM logos will still suit the style of the car............my Dodge uses a modified late 60's Oz Mopar top collapsable coloumn with a home made lower section going to the narrowed 9" rack.........still working 40 yrs later ............apologies for the poor pics..............regards, Andy Douglas
  13. Andydodge

    1939 3 window plymouth coupe

    I have read a few articles about that weight transfer issue, apparently it was quite common to run a tubular rear nerf or push bar of 3-4" diameter and fill it with lead as well as the commonly mounted in the trunk, truck battery........have also heard of an included spare tyre filled with concrete..........weight, we need more weight...........lol..........andyd
  14. Andydodge

    1948 Plymoth Business Coupe HELP

    Faro.......I'd be waiting until I actually had the seat before I drilled any holes,........I think your got the right spot but I'd wait............I'm surprised that no US 46-48 Plymouth coupe or sedan owner has chirped up as I'd think the seat mounting would be in the same place for a Coupe and 2 & 4 Door sedans, probably even a convertible as well..........andyd
  15. Andydodge

    tucked in running boards??

    In 1940 running boards were a delete option for Plymouth although most cars seemed to have running boards, this option also carried over into 1941 and again seems to have been an uncommon choice, most 1940 and 1941 Plymouths seem to have their running boards.......I'm not sure but these panels used instead of running boards may have been called "Body side shields", they, at least for 1940 also seem to have had a chrome molding on them and the leading edge of the rear fender should have had a rubber gravel pad to protect the fender from stone chips..............personally I prefer the running boards as I have them on my oz 1940 Dodge Sedan and were on the 1941 Plymouth Coupe I had............andyd.
  16. Andydodge

    56 Wagon questions

    Does this info help?..............andyd
  17. Andydodge

    1948 Plymoth Business Coupe HELP

    Faro..........apologies if I'm wrong but you sound like you are in Europe?..........as you do not have the original split bench seat for the car what seat/ seats are you going to install? or are you waiting for a seat from the US?.............looks like your car has had a fair amount of floor repair so I assume the original seat braces are no longer there?.............andyd
  18. Andydodge

    1940 Dodge battery location

    My oz 1940 Dodge when purchased in 1971 had the battery under the US drivers side of the seat, you lifted up and removed the seat squab and there the battery lived under a sheet metal cover.........my cars battery lives in the trunk inside that box on the side of the trunk .........works well.............andyd
  19. Have just been thru the past 8mths worth of thread titles looking for anything that mentions the Front Shock Relocation as I am seriously about to do this to my 1940 Dodge and would like to read and view any and all threads and pics pertaining to this............also I am interested in hearing from anyone who has this modification done to their car and can comment on how it rides, handles etc ............and finally what shock absorbers did you use and again any comments etc...............you'd think I would have printed or saved these threads but alas whilst I was once young and silly I'm no longer young.............lol........andyd
  20. Andydodge

    Front Shock Relocation Thread help

    I have had a pair of mid 50's Mopar pickup front shock mounts and also a pair of Munro shocks that look promising...........a mate, Geoff who's engineering and fabrication skills I value called in yesterday and we had a few hours playing front ends...........whilst all the pics I've seen of this conversion show either those pickup mounts or a fabricated steel plate mount they all seem to show an upper mount that ends up being or appears to be 3-4 inches above the top edge of the chassis.......what we found was that using the Munro Matic shocks I have that an upper mount only about 2" above the chassis maybe possible , these Munro shocks have a 12& 7/8" extended length and an 8 & 1/2 compressed length.....they are Munro # 1009 and also have # PK14HA stamped into the lower shock body.............(BTW that shock shown in my pic above is NOT the Munro shock, this shock in the pic has NO stamping or name apart from "UR4" stamped into the body, its also a rebuildable shock as its lower body is screwed together, the Munro shocks are 1" shorter on compression also) ..............anyway I'm still interested in any comments and appreciate all those who have taken the time to reply and add their thoughts and comments.................thanks, Andy Douglas
  21. Andydodge

    47 Plymouth Radiator Support Removal & Installation

    No worries mate...........lol..........Andy Douglas
  22. Andydodge

    1939 3 window plymouth coupe

    HK....thats a real nice gasser......btw your dad was Harley?.............so was my dad, and my grandson is also a Harley...good name.....lol............we must have more info on that Willys........an Olds, 394?......A/G so I assume it injected?.............more info...we need more info............lol..........also those rear wheels are unusual, 4 spoke but 5 stud............do you know the brand?.........and when did your dad have the car?.............the general "feel" of the pic says 64/65..........I like gassers, have built quite a few models of them over the years...........andyd
  23. Andydodge

    Front Shock Relocation Thread help

    Oldguy, thanks for the reply......I've had a 1" sway bar on my car since the mid 70's......it was made up by a local specialist suspension company who used the original as a pattern, I asked for the new one to be 1" thick, handling is quite o/k .........lol..........and I made heim jointed links down to the place were the original sway bar link fitted.......the heim joints are very worn so I decided to replace them and also a few other bits and thought that whilst I'm at it I might as well see about doing the upper shock mount relocation so was wanting to see what people had done...........unfortunately as I live in Oz Rusty Hopes setup will be a little expensive due to the exchange rate and especially freight.........the car is hotrodded so I'm not a sticker for originality...........lol...........anyway appreciate your reply and if anyone else can help don't hesitate..........lol...........btw the attached pic is an old one but shows the heim jointed link and the end of the chromed sway bar.................this was taken before the previous tidy up, maybe 1o yrs ago....time for another one........lol............Andy Douglas
  24. Andydodge

    28 Chrysler 25" Engine tear down and rebuild

    I don't suppose that either of these 2 jerks are related to a guy named Robin Orlando?............lol............when I first bought the 40 Dodge Sedan I was going to part it out for my 1940 Dodge Coupe, but it was too good to use for parts so I decided to restore it..........I had just left school and started a well paying job so had various places and shops do things..............Better Brakes rebuilt the brakes, Graden Gears did the gearbox and diff/rear axle and a guy named Robin Orlando reco'd and rebuilt the engine..............I dropped it off, and picked up the engine with the sump and head on, supposedly everything between was new and rec'd..............1000miles later there was an oil leak from the rear main........I dropped the sump only to discover metal swarf in the pan......dropped the rear main to check the seal and discovered scored and grooved bearings and crank............when contacted by me this dropkick denied all liability and blamed me.......this shithead had failed to clean out the oil lines and passages properly..............lol............so thats why the Dodge has a 318 Poly..............and I had it reco'd BUT little 'ol me assembled it and its been fine for about 44 years...........I just love hearing stories about the wonderful work that professional mechanics, engineers and various specialists do............and they do it with not so much of a smile as they pocket our hard earned cash.................I have a list of these bastards names and when I'm tapped on the shoulder and told my time is up I'll be able to recommend a range of replacements instead of me that can go join Walter P Chrysler...............lol............Maok, I hope you can get it fixed o/k...............regards, andyd
  25. Andydodge

    28 Chrysler 25" Engine tear down and rebuild

    Maok...........why are you cleaning out all the oil passages at this stage?............didn't the guy that did the bearings do any of this and also chase the threads, etc?.........do you have any technical manual or shop manual for this engine?.............andyd
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