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Andydodge

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Everything posted by Andydodge

  1. This has me intrigued............does it scrub on both sides?......have you tried to adjust the steering stops I mentioned to see if that helps?.................does it only scrub when the car is on the ground....or only when off the ground.......or both?................does the car have an excess of toe in?............andyd
  2. My 1940 Dodge is an Oz assembled car, body is by TJ Richards the Oz body builders, here they used the Plymouth chassis, fenders, hood, lights etc with Dodge grille, badges & RHD dash...basically what was done in Canada.......tho' there were a very small number of Oz 1940 Dodge cars even with the plymouth style body but with the US Dodge fenders, hood & headlights...the attached pic is one such car...............andyd
  3. Are you trying to lift the front clip WITH the radiator or radiator support frame included?............I'd think you would be better to leave the radiator support on the car and undo it from the inner fenders and the bolts at either side that are in line with the hood sides...........although my experience has been with 1940 Dodge & 1941 Plymouth the mopar assembly is basically the same up to 1948 and I know that with these two cars at least its better to leave the radiator support & radiator in place and remove the front clip leaving it..............Dodgeb4ya makes a good point re the anti-squeak..........if it front clip hasn't been removed in 70 years then it may need a little loosening, hit every bolt joining area with WD40 or similar and a little prising apart..............andyd
  4. Andydodge

    What Horn

    Steve.....havn't a clue how the horn works.........lol...........it was from an English car I think, but it was 40 odd yrs ago........the cars been basically like this pic since the mid 70's, I bought it in 1971, installed the 318 Poly, auto, discs etc in the early/mid 70's .......have attached a couple of pics.........sorry can't help much re the horn............I think its whatever the 50's/60's morris/austins had.......I think.........lol........but I ended up replacing it a couple of yrs ago as the chrome job was never very good and the bracket I made was supposed to have a pair of horns but I didn't find another trumpet the same, nor did I look too hard and I ended up just getting an aftermarket horn and mounting it behind the grille.....this engine pic is how it looks now...........andyd
  5. Unfortunately I sold the Plymouth........like a dope.......lol...........still got the 40 Dodge Sedan tho'........the Wheel Vintiques were the standard backspace which I think was no more than 3" but thats just a guess as I can't be sure..........the Dodge has 14x6" alloy mags on the front as shown and neither car has had an issue with the tyres hitting inner suspension parts or outer fender wheel arch openings...........do you know what your rims are from?..........also you mention hitting the upper camber nut..........which indicates on hard lock or turns..........the stub axles on these cars should have a steering lock adjustment bolt that screws into each inside or suspension side of the stub axle and is adjustable to limit the steering lock on each side plus this bolt has a lock nut to lock the adjustment ........does your car have these "bolts".....in the attached pic this adjustment bolt is right in the center of this pic and in hard turns touches that triangular "boss" that projects out from the spindle...............lol.............does this make sense...............if your car doesn't have these you can make do using a 7/16th UNF bolt, ideally a hex headed cap screw would be better........or the correct thing.........lol..............BTW is that backspace figure from the inner or outer rim edge?...............andyd.
  6. Andydodge

    What Horn

    Steve......my oz built 1940 Dodge is Plymouth based and the horn shown in this pic is the original trumpet part, at least the chromed part shown is but I fitted up another horn back, I think a Lucas 12 volt one to the original trumpet......I've had the car since 1971 and that was the original horn trumpet when purchased by me back then......is it similar to the "klaxon" one you refer to tho' the actual horn mechanism is different to that shown............make sense?...............andyd
  7. So the PD is the longer deluxe model...........I bet those differences have driven 33 Plymouth owners/restorers/rodders mad for yrs.........lol......ain't old cars fun?............lol..........andyd
  8. Melissa.....what are the differences between the two models?............nice cars BTW.........welcome aboard from Oz...........andyd
  9. I don't know if this will help or not but I had 15x6 Wheel Vintiques Chrome Smoothies with 195/65 x 15 Coker Radials and 15x7, 235/65 x 15 front and rear and had no clearance issues front/back, inner or outer..........for me 215 size radials are too wide for 5 &1/2 rims, I would not run more than 195 width tyres..........andyd
  10. Does the engine number match the year........I've always thought that the neoprene rear main seal didn't arrive till the 1940's.......the 1941 P11 engine in the 1941 Plymouth I had was supposed to have had the rope seal yet it also had the neoprene seal........there are 2 versions of those side or "ear" seals that I call them....neither of these side seals were on my cars engine which answered the rear main seal leak question somewhat.............lol.............I have not seen the rope seal in that type of bolt on bracketry before.........I thought that the rope seal fitted to the actual main cap......but I could be wrong.........., it seems that the different types of rear main seals used were in some fashion or other interchangeable...........hope this doesn't confuse the issue........good video BTW...........andyd
  11. Also you may have overtightened the lid........as Merle says remove, clean and thoroughly inspect the seal/gasket area........you may have cut the rubber seal or it might be bunching up or just needs a firm talking to...........lol.,........ain't old cars fun!.............lol................Welcome Aboard from Oztralia.....andyd
  12. Welcome aboard.....from the height of the aircleaner I assume that its an XF style Falcon Weber carby......nice looking DeSoto..........was it on Oz Ebay recently?..............its interesting to see how Oz Chrysler used various bits & pieces to differentiate the 3 brands they sold here in that period, ie, Plymouth, Dodge & DeSoto........and then in 1957 they marketed only the Chrysler brand till 1962 tho there were imported full size Plymouth, Dodge & DeSotos sold from 57 onwards...........got any more pics?..................andyd
  13. As far as I know "shim stock", ie, a thin sheet of brass in the relevant thickness is still available from bearing supply shops here in Oz and a sharp pair of scissors and you'll have the required shim .......at least thats what I did a few years ago when playing with the Oz 1962 Chrysler Royal( essentially a US 1956 Plymouth rear end) rear end that I'd converted to vented discs and cracked then spun a bearing cup, ever so gently "machining" the axle a few thou or so........lol.........ended up getting the cup metal sprayed to take up the slack, so to speak......needed to be done twice but ended up working o/k and lasting another 20 yrs or so..............other issues eventually made a rear axle replacement from a late model Oz Falcon needing to be done...........but back to the thread...shim stock is still available.............andyd
  14. Sam, when I've used those type of rubber bushes I've used a C clamp to pull the shackles together but the ones I'd used must have been a different width/thickness where the domed area is..........andyd
  15. Sam....I would have thought that the domed head style would have fitted anyway or were they just too wide?..........andyd
  16. Unless you know for certain if its been ground before then I'd ask the machine shop to check it for level and take the bare minimium to achieve it as level..........or yeh I suppose maybe 30-40 thou which should up the compression a little.....stock it was either 6.5:1 with the "nascar" optional 7.1:1 so you might bring it up to the mid to high 7's........maybe.......lol......doubt if anyone knows the stock thickness after nearly years.........andyd.
  17. Admittedly I am 10,000 miles away but those head bolts look like those that are used on mopar sixes to allow the LHD throttle linkage pivots, etc to attach onto the head bolts.................they appear too consistantly incorrect to be separate nuts and the holes look too small to be the 7/16th UNF stud thread size...........andyd
  18. Welcome aboard..........these mopars have an IFS, basically the same arrangement from 1939 thru to 1956.......it has upper and lower A arms, and uses kingpins which are the same size from 1939 to 1954 at least...........check out Bernbaums at oldmoparts.com .........there are disc brake kits available, also various steering upgrades etc however if you swap to another engine trans then unless you install a late model diff you won't have a parking brake as the original is on the stock driveshaft......for me I'd try & get the orginal engine running tho' if you swap the engine trans the small block either Chev, Frod or better still mopar version will fit without a lot of work, suggest you do a search on this forum.....I have a 1940 Dodge with the stock style front end, 4 wheel discs, late Oz Ford rear axle, 318 Poly, Auto, rack & pinion etc.........I'd strongly suggest getting a workshop manual simply because it will help you understand exactly what your car is and what it has and what can be upgraded of left ............regards from sunny South Grafton Australia.......Andy Douglas
  19. I dunno if these help at all but I mounted the front retractable 3 point belts with the retract mechanism at the bottom of the pillar and the top via a plate with a 7/16th nut welded to it then lowered into the pillar, pop riveted against the pillar then the upper 7/16th bolt screwed thru the pillar into said nut.....the inner belt locking piece comes up between the seat and console, the lower two, inner and outer bolts have mounting plates under the floor........have worked fine for the past 40 odd years......belts were new aftermarket sets..........andyd
  20. Due to the way these driveshafts were designed they used a sliding yoke or in your cars case a sliding trunion to allow forward and aft movement.......modern driveshafts use a yoke cast with the splines that slide in and out of the rear of the transmission.........mopars used a fixed flange held onto the rear mainshaft with a large centre nut then either the ball & trunion or sliding yoke universal joint..........personally I wouldn't bother with the ball & trunion and would chase up a replacement driveshaft with proper uni's at both ends....any competent shop that plays with trucks or a hotrod shop should be able to recommend some place to make a driveshaft .........tho' you MUST ensure that the front uni has some sort of sliding yoke arrangement where it bolts onto the flange on the handbrake drum............BTW welcome aboard from oz.......nice car also.................andyd
  21. I did hat Kieth is talking about when I built the 40 Dodge 45 yrs ago.........its 12 volts due to V8 etc and with a new piece of wire has worked fine since.........andyd
  22. Andydodge

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  23. Andydodge

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