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Andydodge

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Everything posted by Andydodge

  1. Andydodge

    front crankshaft bolt size

    Dud..........oops.....well I was close..............lol....................andyd
  2. Andydodge

    front crankshaft bolt size

    I think that the original thread poster was trying to unseize a locked engine whereas Dud appears to have an engine thats not seized but he can't undo the crank nut..............but I maybe mistaken.................andyd
  3. Andydodge

    leaf spring axle u bolts

    Mopar original spring U bolts have that squared off or flattened shape over the axle and aftermarket replacement ones would be just the standard 7/16th or 1/2 inch round bar threaded at either end...........the non mopar ones will work fine.....as for the shock stud I thought they were welded but haven't looked at mine, 1940 Dodge lately.......may need to be cut or drilled out................andyd
  4. Andydodge

    Water pump removal - engine drain cock

    Sounds like you have had a win........must admit that we never have to worry about anti freeze or winter storage here in oz, well, maybe if you live in the Oz Snowy Mountains but even then they don't really get what you guys call snow, maybe a foot or two, not a few yards worth.........lol.........how long do you keep the car out of the cold?....................andyd.
  5. Andydodge

    front crankshaft bolt size

    Dud.......looks like you're ahead of all of us........the engines out..........might be easier to reinstall the engine then you could use my block of wood suggestion from the 8th March last year................lol...........what did you say I could do?, stick my head where?...................lol...........ah, mate its all good...........reminds me of when I was playing water distribution tube with the 230 engine a few yrs ago.........got it as a disassembled engine, however the tube was still in the hole.........tried various ways to remove the mongrel thing and after a few weeks of cursing and swearing a mate came around and using two 12-15" long flat bladed screwdrivers with each one of us jamming and wedging the screwdrivers into the hole against the tube we finally got it to move, after it was an inch out it just came out by hand..........lol...........have been trying to think of a way you can hold the crank and have an idea..............can you make a thing thats like the "clacker" on a chocolate wheel.....instead have it so it bolts to the alloy gearbox plate, maybe using the bolts thru to the block or even just a nut & bolt using the starter holes......and has a "finger" that locks into the flywheel ring gear................. probably would need to be at least 1/4 plate thick with the "finger" ideally 3/8th or thicker............I'm assuming that the engine spins over judging by the shiney bores so at least this will lock the engine then try your closest sized spanner..............ain't old cars fun...............lol................Andy Douglas
  6. Andydodge

    front crankshaft bolt size

    Dud...............a quick question..........is that spanner an SAE/AF size or a Whitworth?........anyway, when you get it off, clean it up, then measure the across flat size, thread count and diameter across the threads............am curious.............andyd...
  7. Andydodge

    Droopy door handle

    PT81's repair is the correct way to properly repair the lock mechanism however its been my experience that depending on how bad the handle is hanging that using a judicious amount of heat on the square handle shaft with it held in a vice its possible to gently bend/twist the shaft enough to compensate for the wear..........its not a perfect solution however it can help to improve the hanging handle senario.........my Oz 2 cents...................andyd
  8. Andydodge

    Home Made Intake, Exhaust & Freshen-Up

    Adam........the reason your car gets the attention and not the 6 figure Italian job is that your car has been HOTRODDED whilst the Italian job has just been CHEQUEBOOKED and the discerning car fan knows and appreciates the difference...........looks like your co-pilot also appreciates and enjoys the car..............and we here do so as well..........regards from Oz.........andyd
  9. Andydodge

    An Immodest Proposal (with apologies to Jonathan Swift)

    My 2 Oz cents worth would be also to wait and look around for a car that has had the hard work already done or at least after you have seen a few cars, some of which you start to realise that they were definately a good deal or conversely a pile of crap that thankfully you passed on......unfortunately a lot of this knowledge and experience in picking cars only comes with time, and experience can be bought but DOES cost.............as an example, I check US Ebay, 1940-1949 Collector Cars daily......just a habit I have..........lol..........a week or so ago they was a 1947 Plymouth Club Coupe, hot rodded 6, new upholstery, lowered, nice maroon paint, good chrome, in Oregon or Washington State so a west coast car, easy to get to Long Beach for shipping to Oz.........in was 20K or best offer, personally I thought it was an absolute gift................on the other hand at present there is a 1940 DeSoto Coupe listed as a Dodge, bright blue & white, looks like a sub frame swap, sitting like a 4wheel drive, 429 Frod engine, lots of shiney checker plate inside and out, dirty, rusty scabby a genuine POS ........I wouldn't consider it even if they pay me 20K to take it...........then theres a nice 1941 Plymouth 2Dr Sedan in Colorado I think $7-8,000, older grey paint but new upholstery looks like a really nice car for the money, complete and doesn't appear to be a basket case either..........so they are around............1949 to 56 Plymouth & Dodges don't appear to be the most popular and therefore parts etc are harder to find sometimes but its a give & take............a good popular car like a Frod or Shev will always be more expensive, have a better parts supply and cost more..........but who wants to be boring?..........lol.......welcome to Mopar........regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
  10. Andydodge

    Jaguar front clip

    Bob.........I'm no expert on post war mopars but that dash looks a lot like a 46-48 Plymouth dash but with the DeSoto logo..........heres a pic of the dash that my 41 Plymouth Coupe had....and I agree re your thoughts on LHD/RHD tho' at least we did get factory RHD cars although 99% were just 4drs like my 40 Dodge
  11. Andydodge

    Jaguar front clip

    Hurnleft.........from the number plate I assume you are in England? and as its a South African car is it RHD?..........I had a South African 1941 Plymouth Coupe, factory Detroit Export RHD assembled in Sth Africa.............do you have access to production numbers in South Africa?............regards, andyd
  12. Andydodge

    Headlight Switch

    Well what I'd do first is get a few wires that you can plug into those sockets and just check the circuits..........I just followed and typed what the wiring diagram indicated..........lol............I'd still not connect it up thru the cars circuits till I was certain that it works as per power in-power out ............doesn't your 49-52 Shop manual have the wiring diagram?..............I know when I wired up my car, the 40 dodge I still use the original ignition switch, starter button and headlight switch all with a home brewed wiring job, I cut the armoured cable that these mopars used from the ignition switch down to the coil and attached a new wire, Oz cars due to the RHD had used a dash mounted starter button for years and the headlight switch just switches, I havn't told it about the 12volts running thru, tho' I did pull it apart, clean & reassembled it and its been working fine for the past 45yrs.........lol..........BUT......I still recommend that you test everything first.........wiring is a black art, best done after whispering nice thoughts to the various pieces and vehicle.............lol............andyd
  13. Andydodge

    Trans Brake for a 48 Plymouth

    Yep, thats the way to go, connect up the GM handbrake stuff..........BTW tho'the old mopar drive shaft handbrake if properly adjusted will pull the car up from 60MPH.............lol............ask me how I know.........lol..............a bit of smoke and WTF!!! is happening but they DO work quite well but sounds like you're good to go..........regards from Oz............andyd
  14. Andydodge

    Headlight Switch

    Nut is power out to a 30amp circuit breaker that feeds power to the Glove box lamp switch, power to the stop lamp switch and on the other side of the circuit breaker to the radio and back to the ignition switch................. the ........H is headlight power out down to the dipper switch which switches it to hi/lo beam........P is for front parking lights............... T is for rear tailights................I is power to the Instrument lamp switch, which I think is the toggle switch under the dash.........power goes in from the starter & ignition switch to the topmost pole,ie, that one between the P and T sockets..............this is directly from the P19 and P20 wiring Diagram on page 299 of the 1946-1954 Plymouth Service Manual published 11/53 in the USA..............now some of these connections I am a bit iffy about,so at the very least I'd be just doing a test of the circuits thru the switch by using a trouble light and seeing what send power where...........as for the number of parking lights etc...........you only need in theory ONE parking light wire.....just split it up front/back/left/right as it becomes parking at the front, tailight at the back...........as for a stop light, you run constant power to a separate stoplight switch( ie, from that nut which should I think have power coming from the topmost pole........but check.....lol)) as they have to work irrespective whether its night or day..............anyway hope this helps...........andyd
  15. Andydodge

    Jaguar front clip

    XJ6 Jag front suspensions are a common install in late 30's 40's Frods and pickup trucks here in Oz, have been for at least 20yrs, however they need a pair of straight chassis rails which Frods etc have but independant suspended mopars do not and as mentioned will require serious frame modification, if you are capable of this chassis work then the Jag front end offers a very good upgrade...........andyd
  16. Andydodge

    Exciting 1933 Dodge project!

    Nice bellcrank for the accelerator linkage, are you going to have any sort of sump guard or something either side of the sump to protect the dissy and/or oil lines & exhaust etc.....also a fuel tank guard at the rear?........so like the remote master cylinder lines..........andyd
  17. Andydodge

    Timing Chain Question

    All Mopar 6 cylinder timing chains are apparently the same 1934 to 1954 including both 23 and 25" engines then as Plymouth & Dodge only list the six after that from 1956 to 1959 the timing chain is different to the 1955 & earlier engine.........has anyone compared the two and can tell me what the difference is and/or better still the part numbers for each.........thanks, andyd
  18. Andydodge

    Timing Chain Question

    DW...........just to update what I ended up doing was to obtain a matched chain and gear set and intended to use that, however I eventually ended up selling the complete unassembled engine so unfortunately can't supply any more info if needed, this was in 2013 or 2014..........I would think that Mellings parts would be a good choice, assuming that they are USA made.........I ended up getting valves,valve guides and lifters from Turkey as there had been a Chrysler parts distribution centre there and the parts were much cheaper than anywhere else but more importantly were NOS, in genuine mopar or US branded boxes with part numbers.............I think the chain & gear set may also have been ex Turkey too............regards, Andyd.
  19. I'd check out an XJ6 Jaguar series 1, 2 or 3 front end, they essentially bolt in to a chassis and are a very common upgrade here in oz, especially on F100 or similar trucks like the Pilothouse..........check that the track and overall width is o/k for the outer fender edge clearance also.......the only downside with the Jjag front end is that the upper shock mount is part of the Jag so the solution is the weld a piece of box tube onto the upper suspension tower to suit the shock eye width which is not difficult to do......they also come with a nice premounted power rack...........trust this helps................andyd
  20. Andydodge

    Zerk Fittings Cleaning

    The reason I try to use or clean out the old grease nipples is that here in Oz that bastard metric system has meant that there are metric grease nipples and their threads are different to the pure imperial ones...........how I hate the metric cistern.......lol...........andyd
  21. Andydodge

    Oil Pans Types

    That "slot" is for the dipstick, as for that "V" in the rear baffle, its just a way of strengthening the baffle.........I'd run any pan with a baffle instead of a pan without a baffle........whilst its not a 6 cylinder flathead I reversed the pan on the 318 Poly when I installed it, added a baffle at the front to stop or at least restrict oil flow to the front away from the oil pickup, and installed a dipstick on the opposite side of the pan, this together with a remote oil filter using a common Z9 filter with a remote oil cooler in front of the radiator has increased the oil capacity by about 2 litres.............still working o/k 40 yrs later....... I have no idea which pan is "correct" but I'd use pan #1............Andyd
  22. Andydodge

    Zerk Fittings Cleaning

    I generally remove & clean them using a piece of wire in the threaded end, then a toothbrush & some degreaser then wash them out and air dry............I use a moly..... based grease for all the grease nipples on the dodge.........andyd
  23. Andydodge

    Industrial Engine

    Single, only one throat there.....tho' you should still be able to get 2 into one carby adaptors..........andyd
  24. David......anything can be made to fit however depending on the way the Challenger brakes are made etc then that may decide for you whether they are adaptable to anything else.........as an example when I first built the Dodge in the early/mid 70's I used an Oz Leyland disc brake setup for the front, these were/are an 11" vented, Ford/Mopar bolt pattern disc and were available very cheaply, however for the back I used a 1962 Oz Chrysler rear axle, removed the brake drum from the tapered axle hub and fitted front Oz Valiant disc rotors on the rear hubs, then cut the original mopar backing plate down to nothing to just hold the bearings and seal in the axle and used Oz Ford vented rear disc calipers as they were available and relatively cheap...........but yrs later I had to make some rear axle repairs and it was easier to use the complete rear axle from a late model Oz Ford............I'd be making a few inquiries regarding what is available and be looking around at as many cars as possible........also I'd be doing a few searches on this forum and see what turns up...........BTW..the car looks o/k from here..........lol............andyd
  25. David, welcome aboard, these guys know their stuff.............my 1940 Dodge has had a 318 poly, torquflite since 1973, 4 wheels discs, rack & pinion etc etc........now you ask for info regarding the installation of the Challenger running gear........have you ever done this type of swap? do you have fabrication skills or experience or access to someone who may have done this type of conversion?............I'm certainly not going to reprimand you, hey, I'm a HOTRODDER........lol...............what condition is the P15 in? my suggestions would be to install a disc brake conversion from one of the guys that offer them, Rusty Hope, ScareBird or similar, rebuild the original front suspension, ie, new bushes and kingpins, install an upper shock absorber mount kit, a beefier front sway bar, as for steering I'd try to either keep the original steering box or adapt a late model steering box and later column, install a late live axle, say something like a Ford 9" or mopar equivalent...............I think the Challenger uses a variation of the Mercedes style independant rear suspension that all these cars were based on and that would be a heap of work to install...............now as for the engine/trans installation there should be a few engine mount kits to suit these from various hot rod shops over in the USA, so I'd be talking to them as far as getting info, attend as many rod runs that I could with a camera in hand and take pics, ask questions and have at it............have attached a pic of the 318 in my Dodge.............got some pics of your car................and welcome aboard from sunny South Grafton Australia.............Andy Douglas
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