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Andydodge

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Everything posted by Andydodge

  1. Your RHD New Yorker is a very uncommon car........my understanding is that 12-20 Chrysler Windsors were imported into Oz for government use in 1946-48, all were factory RHD, none of the 46-48 Chryslers sold here were TJ Richards assembled, I had one of the 48 Windsors back in the mid 1970's for a couple of years, it had an extra set of taillights installed beside the stock Chrysler set plus another spare set in the trunk so at least 3 cars were here in Oz at some stage.see attached pics, the only 2 I have.................I have seen a 48 New Yorker at the Northern NSW Back To Brunswick Rod Run 3-4 yrs ago but it had a 350 Chev installed, otherwise stock looking...............where do you live?.......I'm in Grafton, NSW.......finding a RHD steering box & column maybe a hard ask..........do you belong to any Oz Chrysler Club?...........I'm in the Chrysler Restorers Club Of Australia, NSW and they may be able to help...........I'm a hotrodder but don't hold that against me........I've had my 1940 Dodge since Sept 1971 and maybe able to suggest some answers to your problem.......give me a call.........I'm retired so home Mon -Sunday and up till 10pm phone 02 6642 5963......Welcome Aboard..........regards Andy Douglas
  2. All the Oz centre windscreen bars I've seen have been diecast and that pic of one you show is the only one I've seen that is not cracked or completely covered in diecast "fuzz"......I ended up making one myself from brass bar and rod in the early 70's, rechromed it looks fine over 45 yrs later.....andyd
  3. Marc.........I also agree with Ken......5/16th is a large brake line, AFAIK the stock lines were 1/4", at least they were here in Oz, tho' with the 4wheel disc setup I have used since the mid 70's I have 3/16th as per the disc brake OEM used.........5/16 seems too big..........andyd
  4. My 1940 Oz car used a rod that came thru the floorboard that was a press fit into the top rear of the accelerator pedal into a rubber hole, the pedal pivoted on 2 round balls at its bottom which allowed the pedal to move back & forwards pushing the rod thru the hole and operating the carby bellcrank that was on the linkage.........the bellcrank was located via a pivot shaft that bolted onto the side of the intake manifold...........I'm going on my memory now........that of the 1940 Dodge that I replaced all these bits on in 1973 and the 1941 Factory RHD Plymouth Coupe which I owned from 2007 to 2014......................I'll see if I can find a pic that might help.........does your car have the stock accelerator pedal and carby but no linkage between the two?................andyd
  5. I didn't notice the roof mounted wipers..........so its a North American sourced 39 Plymouth then?............andyd
  6. EH...........can you be clearer as to exactly what your car is?..........is it LHD or RHD and where are you?............as for Oz built RHD cars they used a rod that came up from the lower firewall thru a hole in the removable floor and attached to a bellcrank which was almost identical to the bellcrank the LHD cars used in their linkage which in the LHD cars went beside the engine block then hence across the cylinder head......the RHD setup was MUCH simpler than the LHD.................so what car do you actually have?..............andyd
  7. Mike......another way to tell if its an Oz built car or not may involve looking at the way the inside door handles and winders attach to their relevant mechanism......do they use a large splined setup, ie, the actual handle has a large, 5/8 diameter "male" spline that fits into an internal "female" spline....(.the OZ GM FJ/FX Holdens used the same splined setup)..............if so the car is DEFINATELY Oz assembled/made by TJ Richards,no question.........BUT.........if it has just a 3/8" square shaft coming out from the door and winder mechanism and a "female" 3/8" square internal hole in the handles then it is more than likely US or Canadian sourced.......andyd
  8. I had a 1941 Plymouth ASC Coupe & as far as I know the 1940/41 Plymouth Sedan & Coupe front 1/4 windows are the same, the 1/4 vent rubber that I obtained from Andy Bernbaums had the same part number for both years and models and fitted into the 41 Plymouth I had without any issue, a fiddly job, but no real problem.......andyd
  9. Grinding whats left of the rusty bolt then either welding a bolt in or a nut will work or another solution would be to grind whats left flat then drill a hole and use a "nutsert" installed in the hole...........when done properly they will hold remarkably well..........andyd
  10. Ttumachy.......nice to see a clean tidy front end, tho' I have a couple of questions.......the front brake hose as shown looks like it maybe a little stretched on hard lock if it frame mount is left where it is.........I know the pic shows the front end extended with no weight on the suspension but I'd be moving that frame mount an inch or two forward if possible.............and you mention that you intend to take the car for a drive in the neighbourhood without rear brakes hooked up...........I know that braking is mostly done by front brakes but even so I'd be a little cautious without rear brakes........ ............tho I do understand the need to take the car out for its 1st run around the block........the attached pic shows me taking the 40 Dodge out for its first run around the block with the 318 Poly installed back in September 1973, thats a 19yr old me at the wheel, all bright eyed & bushy tailed......lol..........BTW.......Welcome Aboard from Oz......Andy Douglas
  11. On my Oz 1940 D15 Dodge the headlight buckets are what I understand to be the same as that used in the USA and I would think, essentially the same buckets that were used up until the late 40's......the 1940 buckets accepted a 7" sealed beam Bosch H4 headlamp when I converted the car to V8/12 volts etc in the early 1970's......the original setup uses a stamped brass/stainless steel ring that holds the headlamp against the 3 indents in the stamped steel bucket, the brass/stainless ring once pushed into and against the sealed beam lamp is turned approx 3/8th of an inch to lock itself against 3 small screws equidistant around the out edge of the bucket.......once locked in place the headlamp bucket/assembly is held into the headlight stamping via a screw on the side and bottom of the bucket and a spring on the opposite side of the bucket, ie, on the side and top..............this screw is then turned in or out to move the "aiming" of headlamp bucket.........the screw is such that it has a machined lip along its shank that locates the side of the headlight bucket and allows the bucket assembly to move in/out-up/down..........this setup is the same as that used up till the late 40's, at least thats what I've seen here in Oz on our 1946-1948 Plymouths & Dodges.............andyd
  12. Wow.......nice pics..........thanks.....andyd
  13. HOORAY!!!!!!!.............lol...........good to see a positive result.......lol.
  14. For what its worth which is probably not much with the current exchange rate of the Oz dollar to US dollar, I'll add my opinion........ .............I have been dealing with Andy Bernbaums for over 35 years and have always found them to be honest and pleasant to deal with especially considering that I am 10,000 miles away and they don't know me from a bar of soap, just a voice on the phone.........however, I have had very poor dealings with Steele Rubber, when ordering a cowl vent rubber to suit a 1941 Plymouth Coupe, the wrong item was sent in the correct plastic bag.....when I rang and questioned this I was told I didn't know what i was talking about, they could never have made a mistake and refused to consider any recourse for me..........I still have this mongrel piece of rubber here and will until I die go out of my way to badmouth these so called experts, masquerading as nice dealers........ah..........there, I feel much better now..........Steele Rubbers attitude cost me over $100.00 for the wrong part and postage.........I don't forgive nor do I forget...........but we all have our good & bad dealings..........lol............Andy Douglas
  15. Plymouth engine numbers should normally start with the model number then the actual engine number, for 1937 it should start as P3 or P4 to indicate a Standard or DeLuxe model then the 6-8 digit engine number............thats why the Forum here is the P15-D24(1946-1948) for both Plymouth and the Dodge variant.....the engine number for all the mopar side valve sixes is as stated in your other thread, above the generator, at the front of the block on a machined flat surface about 3" long and 1/2" high..........andyd
  16. All i know is that the voltage resistor that I used which was the same as that used when a "resistor" coil is used worked fine, even through the standard 1940 Oz Dodge wiper switch.....the reason the whole shebang got replaced was that the wiper tower washers that held the wipers on were buggered and back then, around 1980 unobtainable here in Oz so it was simpilier to just replace the whole lot, wiper, arms, etc with something that I knew worked and I could at least back then get parts for..............the wiper arms I used were short stainless arms that I had to heat & bent slightly and worked fine till 2-3 years ago when I bit the bullet and bought nice new shiney stainless arms from Newport Engineering in the USA, these new arms are adjustable both in length and angle but by the time they arrived here in Oz a little expensive but as the BMC wiper towers use the standard 1/2" spline the Newport arms fitted fine......... .............and if you are wondering how the centre windscreen bar remained so nice.....stop wondering thats a hand made one that I made from 1"x1/2" brass bar cut with a hacksaw lengthways and file finished then soldered to a tapered, drilled & tapped piece of 3/8th square brass bar then chromed.......done when I was young & silly.............about 45 yrs ago...........andyd
  17. Mopar used steel on steel pins and bushes at least until 1954 in all the upper,lower, inner and outer bushes and pins........the only rubber was the tubular seals around these bushes, tho the lower outers used a formed rubber seal with an internal "hex" to accommodate the head of the fixed lower spindle bush on one side and a similar bush on the other with a round "female" indent to sit over the end of the lower bush............the lower inner and upper inner seals can be replaced with just a piece of rubber hose of the right diameter, the upper outer can also have a piece of hose or even a large "o" ring can be used if need be............these bushes and pins have a specific machined "gap" in their thread, (who's name escapes me) but is there to allow grease to travel along and between the threads.................rubber is also used on the sway bar links and bushes and the rebound rubbers................andyd
  18. I would also suggest removing the short extension between the socket and bar, attach the bar directly onto the socket, one less thing to move..........also tap the wood wedge into the frame/pulley a little bit more........whisper sweet nothings to the bolt..........or discuss its parentage.......I sometimes do both at once............lol............also a wood wedge on the flywheel from the bottom on the drivers side between the flywheel and bellhousing after removing the bellhousing inspection cover on the bottom.........you'll beat it.............we are intelligent life forms......its only an inanimate piece of shaped steel.........teach it who is the BOSS.........lol.............gently.........lol............andyd
  19. Eneto........my car has 3 interior lights......one at the top of each centre pillar and another larger version above the rear seat....all are connected to the same switch which lives on my drivers side centre pillar, actually under the seat belt webbing.........power is only connected to it when the headlight or parking lights are switched on, a wire connected to the stock headlight switch goes to the interior light switch.....thinking about this I vaguely remember using the holes for the small lights at the top of the pillar to feed the seat belt mount plates thru.........my cars centre pillar is much narrower than yours as shown in the pic, I do not think that even the most severe accident would pull a piece of the pillar away however it maybe worth cutting a pice from your pillar to allow you to fabricate a new inner strengthening piece & weld it in then reattach the inner pillar and fully seam weld it along both tack strip edges and fully top & bottom........also some sort of internal bracket plug welded to the outer pillar edge would also give further piece of mind.........as mentioned I'm happy with my setup but back then didn't see any need to take pics.............lol.............Andy Douglas
  20. I have a 1940 Oz Dodge 4dr sedan and installed lap/sash retractable front seat belts 40 yrs ago, the upper mount is via a narrow 3/16th thick plate about 5/8th wide x 2" long with the standard 7/16th UNF nut welded on the reverse, the thread was extended into the plate also..............the plate was dropped down from a hole in the upper pillar to a spot where I'd drilled a 7/16th hole, installed a 7/16th unf bolt to capture the plate against the inner pillar then used a pair of 3/16th pop rivets to attach the plate to the pillar.........the plate had its corners rounded and edges chamfered to negate the chance of "pull through" in an accident .............the lower pillar mount that has the retracting mechanism was actually installed on the floor with its mounting bolt thru the floor and secured with reinforcing plates on the bottom and again correct 7/16th seat belt bolts washer and plates used...........the centre mount which has the buckle was also mounted using correct 7/16th seat belt bolts,washers and reinforcement plates...........the rear seat has non retractable lap/sash belts at either side and a lap belt in the middle, all three belts mounted with correct 7/16th bolts,washers and plates ..............current style child safety seat mounts are also installed with the correct hardware on the rear parcel shelf............pics don't help much but I'm satisfied that my work is safe, strong and secure...........andyd
  21. I'm not trying to have a "holier than thou" attitude but if you have the pulley.....reattach it to the crank hub with 2 of the bolts( 5/16 or 3/8th), wedge a block of wood between the pulley and frame and use the 3foot breaker bar you have on the socket and the centre bolt is undone, then unbolt the pulley from the hub and use the puller on the hub to remove it...........it may even be a little loose after the centre bolt is undone..............this centre bolt is about 1" in diameter with a fine UNF thread..........I would NOT expect the centre bolt to break...............andyd
  22. I used the same type of resistor that I used on the coil........it just dropped the voltage............got it from the local parts place.......andyd
  23. My car being an Oz assembled car used a 6volt wiper motor but when i installed the V8 etc I used a voltage resister for a few years but then changed it over to a 12 volt BMC/Lucas cable drive wiper motor installed between the glove box and passenger cowl..........works fine and the cable brackets can be adapted to either "clap your hands" or "wave your hands" simply by turning them upside down.........the Newport Engineering setup is very similar to the BMC ones............andyd
  24. Bryan.........do you still have the crank pulley available?.........if so bolt it back on with just 2 bolts into the crank hub, then use a block of wood wedged between the pulley and the side of the chassis on the passenger side which will use the weight of the engine to lock the pulley and hence the hub and allow you to undo the centre bolt........from memory its 1 & 13/16th size........once the bolt is removed the puller you are using "should" work once you take the pelly back off...............I used this method on the crank hub/pulley when I removed the assembly in my 1941 Plymouth a few years ago.........but I would not be trying the cardboard thing on top of the piston.........as Sam mentioned a good way to bend a conrod..............regards from Oz.........andyd
  25. Yep, thats replacement time, but I'd try pulling the cylinder apart and check whether the cylinder maybe able to be honed or sleeved to be kept as a spare or if need be reused......if so then I'd not keep it assembled but coat with a rust preventative and trust that keeps the bore clean ........andyd
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