Andydodge

And what makes you think your engine had to have a number anyway?......lol........I have a 230 industrial engine that does not have an engine number, sure it was out of an airport tug but, still no number.........your block may have been a mopar replacement block, did they come with a number?........looks like it has some nice and original patina anyway......lol.......andyd

Reg, we only got 2 per car over here, both on the nose,have never noticed the one on the bootlid of US cars before............tho' the Oz cars being Plymouth based, used the 40 Plymouth number plate light/handle assembly......notice the different front sheetmetal on my car compared to that on Phils......andyd

Just checked my 1940 Dodge & some spare ones.......4 & 5/8th inch long, 5/8th" high, three pins on the back, no part numbers on the back tho.......1940 Dodge they seem to me......andyd

Oops, sorry, on Ebay..........I don't know how to do links.........have enough trouble typing........lol..........andyd

He's got another set of lifters listed under 1941 plymouth parts for $44.00 buy it now.......andyd

All 7 pistons are fine..................lol...........come on, even down here in Oz we are waiting...........whats the verdict.............lol...........andyd

Just rec'd parts from Instanbul, Turkey......set of 12 lifters in a US Borg Warner USA box, Cam sprocket in a genuine Chrysler/Mopar Parts box and Timing chain in a Freedco Automotive Parts box from Long Island City 6, NY......all are perfect, NOS, unmolested USA made parts......total was $44.00 US for the 12 lifters and $65.00 US for the chain & sprocket.......postage from Turkey to Oz was $90.00 US.........$199.00 in total.........about half what the Oz price would have been......the lifters are still listed at $159.95 US on ebay...........whilst I understand you guys in the US wanting to support US based businesses I thought some might be interested.......the guy in Turkey goes under the "moparkenan" seller title & seems fine to deal with........as I have been over the past 2yrs........this last order was paid via paypal on 13th April, postmarked that day also and received here in Australia, today 27th April........worth considering..Andy Douglas

Richard, the insulator pad is in 2 pieces, on the outside of the chassis and between the chassis & steering box, I got both of mine from "moparkenen" a seller from Turkey, he generally lists under 1948 plymouth parts on ebay, whenever I find a listing from him I then search to see whatelse he has. From what I understand Turkey was where Chrysler had their Middle East distributorship based and there is a lot of mopar stuff there........I've bought the isolator rubbers, valves,valve springs, oil pump, cam, rod , big end & main bearings and other bits all from there, prices are usually 1/3 of what they are here in Oz even with postage, supply is quick and easy. All parts so far have been USA made parts in the boxes.........works for me.........andyd

I've got 2" blocks & one coil cut..........3" would be a bit too low, methinks.........andyd

Best thing would be to get the best, most complete & running car you can afford........mechanical parts are still commonplace certainly since the web has opened up the world, sheetmetal not so much, but it is still around. 4drs are cheapest but offer less on resale, then 2 drs, coupes, convertibles & woodies in that general order, but it depends what you want, can find, can afford, etc etc. O/k I'm in Australia but even down here we know that cars from areas that salt the roads are not 1st choice over west coast and lower south west dry area cars..........Fluid drive is great if working 100% but a straight manual might be a better choice if you haven't played with these b4 or at the very least get one thats working correctly........read up, check all the posts on this forum, etc etc , become as much of an expert that any of us try to be(lol) and take the plunge..........just don't expect 1990's tech in a 1940's cars..........lol............& have fun........andyd

As far as I know the rebuild kits include the upper/lower bearings & races, gaskets & Pitman arm bushes & seal. I have also seen listed on US ebay NOS pitman shafts that also include the roller. I have never seen a NOS steering worm, tho' as the are a separate piece on the steering shaft they should exist somewhere. I try the rbuild kit or at least pull your steering box apart & check the worm/roller for general wear. If they seem o/k get the kit & try that, if nothing else a new pitman shaft seal would be a worthwhile install as then at least it would be lubed..........andyd

Louie, as far as I know, yep, bellhousings are the same, not 100% sure on the flywheel swap tho........andyd

Lee, my 1941 Plymouth Coupe is a RHD car from Sth Africa, apparenty Chrysler opened a new plant in 1941, built/assembled a few hundred cars then closed again for the duration of WW2. Regarding the upholstery, in Oz, Plymouth & certainly Dodge were upmarket cars from what I've seen written. My 1940 Dodge originally had leather seats with cloth door panels and felt roof lining...its been reupholstered in vinyl, however the folding armrest on the back seat is original as are the front door armrests that are adjustable forward/back. I have no idea what the Plymouth was originally trimmed with but I'd say leather would also be a safe bet........andyd

Well, when I got my P11 coupe the upholstery was perfect, the seat not so........I sat looking thru the steering wheel the seat was so bad......ended up taking the seat to an upholsterer & had it rebuilt..............ended up costing about $400 as apart from all new springs it also needed repairs to the seat back frame........worth every penny........Jack.....some things are worth getting the "man" to do........lol......had a go yrs ago trying to rebuild a seat.........not worth the hassle.......lol......andyd

46/48........never did like the early 50's Merc's........lol........andyd

Jake, 23" long engines are 201,217.8 and 230 cubes with 3& 1/8th and 3 &1/4 bores..........25" engines are 218, 228 and 250 cubes with 3 & 7/16th bores.......see where it gets confusing.........lol........andyd

Ian, can't find the specs for the pin diameter but the bushes after reaming should be from .7960" to .7975"........andyd

Jake, nice truck, mopars don't have splash lube, we have a real oil system, the oil pump is on the pass side below the carby, behind the fuel pump, has a plate with 6 small bolts, the oil filter as has been mentioned is inside that canister, get a new filter, drain the oil & get it running, as for a 12volt conversion, any mid 50's side valve six starter thats from a 12 volt car should bolt in tho' your starter mechanism may need changing, ie the solenoid/starter circuit might have to be updated also use a 12 volt mopar generator, change the globes in all the lights, head,tail,stop, blinkers,instrument & interior lights and put a voltage drop on the fuel guage circuit, also change the coil to a 12 volts one & everything else should be fine...the amp guage reads amps, not volts, and the water & oil guages should be mechanical with no electric connections.........note also that you should measure the length of your engine to be 100% certain which it is........23" or 25" the 228 version is in the 25" long series, not to be confused with the 230 from the 23" long series, this is important when or if you need to get any engine parts that are affected by the length, ie, intake/exhaust manifolds, cylinder head, pistons , water tube..........also get hold of a workshop manual, even a car one would be a big help regarding engine parts..........anyway welcome to the best mopar 6 site on thenet........regards from sunny Sth Grafton NSW, Australia...Andy Douglas

Tod, that would have been a 318 poly, they all had solid lifters with those adjusters that have no lock nut, the thread on the adjuster screw & that thru the rocker are some sort of interference fit but if they have been "interfered " with too often they come loose..........lol......ask me How I know...........lol......btw the hammer repair method is the recomended repair...........andyd

Ramon, try that lube, also get a Pitman shaft lower seal, and then check the triangular shaped inner/outer rubber mounts that fit between the steering box & chassis, they get oil grease soaked and are definately worth replacing.....which can be done by undoing the steering box 3 bolts and levering the box away from the chassis & installing the new rubbers, hard work but can be done....I did on my 41 Plymouth....lol........you can also install the lower steering worm bearings with the box in the car......but to fully rebuild the box you need to remove the whole thing.........lol.........ain't cars fun?.........andyd

Thats one neat meat wagon, as I have a 1940 Dodge was particularly interested........and the unusual thing apart from its bodywork is that it has genuine US 1940 Dodge front grille sheetmetal & hood and US style twin segmented parking lights & genuine US Dodge fenders, .........these parts are VERY uncommon in Oz........see the attached pic of my Oz 1940 Dodge & compare the differences........andyd

Mark........it worked........sloppy kiss WITH tongue coming your way...........lol............don't want tongue?.........lol..........o/k.........slobber,slobber........lol..............thanks, andyd

The spring that lower radiator hoses use is very close to the same diameter & strength, and possibily cheaper.......lol.....andyd

As far as I know the only way to remove the steering shaft from the box is to undo/remove the steering wheel, remove the Pitman shaft from the box thru the top plate & then remove the lower bearing plate and take the whole shaft out from underneath............but you have to jack the car way up as the shaft is about 4' long and needs that sort of height to clear the box........I might be wrong but don't think so..........andyd

Ian, the pins should be a firm fit in the bushes, ie, when installed into the stubs they should not slide through easily but be a firm/tight fit.........there should be specs in your workshop manual......andyd