Andydodge

Fred, the tank only has the 2 straps but don't forget the filler tube, fuel sender unit and also the fuel line itself.......be careful undoing the fuel line as there should be a very small "olive" at the end of the line where it enters the tank and it may fall off..........not easy to find sometimes......also the nuts inside the trunk on the floor that hold the straps are easily water filled and rust........use LOTS of WD40 or similar to lubricate the threaded nuts and "bolt" as whilst you may think the nuts are undoing and NOT check underneath in reality the nut is frozen onto the threaded strap end and you end up twisting the thread and breaking the strap...........ask me how I know this........even after nearly 40 yrs I still can remember this little bit of mopar fun.........lol...........andyd

Now is it just a rumour or can we all send our cars to Mark to restore seeing as he has the experience now..........lol..........laugh, Mark......come on, laugh.....lol..........lol..........o/k, will only send my car........regards, andyd

Thanks..........unfortunately I have a hopefully only temporary lack of financial folding stuff...........lol........so its been sitting on the stand for 12 mths........lol...........but will get there one day, have been collecting all the engine bits slowly and its at the stage to get the machining done on the engine........whilst its an industrial engine it should go o/k.........andyd

Good to hear from you Rodney..........all you guys feel like family to me.........its SO nice to be able to talk Mopar with others.........lol.................best wishes for your recovery Rodney........andyd

Fester, I have an ex airport tug 230 engine that will go in my 1941 Plymouth Coupe......when I got the engine it havd been disassembled & loosely re assembled without the original intake manifold, whatever shape it was, also that round alloy thing on the front is a adaptor to mount and Australian GM Product, a Holden water pump to the engine, I've had a pair of different exhaust manifolds cut to make the twin exhaust headers, the carbs are Oz Holden Stromberg single throat carbs from the late 60's and the Edgy head from California.........btw you can see the "Chrysler Industrial Engine" plate near the fuel pump, under the front header.......I think the industrial engines had slightly less compression and posibily different cam/ignition timing but with the Edgy head at 9.5 to 1, twin carbs, twin headers & full twin system, HEI Dissy & balanced it should give a flathead Ford a run.......lol.....the HEI & beehive filter are already on the stock 41 engine as shown.......also have an S10 T5 gearbox to adapt to it.......regards, andyd

Great News Mark, the pics look good, congratulations on a job well done........Andyd

To run a pressure cap on an original style non pressure radiator, at least this is what I had to do was get the cap neck changed to the type that suited a pressure cap.......pressure caps, at least all the ones I have seen are shorter in height.......after a lot of stuffing around I ended up getting a new radiator made that used the modern style core, it was thinner than the original radiator and works much better......its in this........and has been in it for 25yrs or so....... regards, andyd

Bill, convert the original radiator to run a pressure cap, get the radiator cleaned out to be certain its o/k, also run a fan either on the engine if space permits or an electric pusher/puller fan with a manual switch that allows YOU to turn the fan on when you want it, also a 160 thermostat and a coolant recovery bottle.........I have all these things more or less on my 318 Poly powered 40 dodge sedan and I only turn the pusher fan on in stop/start traffic, otherwise it runs on 180 degrees as shown on the original guage.......... andyd

Tod.......sounds like a cigar to me ........andyd

Todd, if you get a chance give him my best wishes for the judging from Australia.........lol.........Andy Douglas

Great pics......did Mark get there with his 1941 Plymouth Coupe?........this was the one that the videos were done of.........anyway thanks for the pics........andyd

Ed & Joel thanks for the quick replies..........had never thought of the carpet strips............thats an excellent idea Joel......will follow this one up at the local carpet joint...andyd.

Just to throw a spanner in the works as to what a car actually is..........have a look at my 1940 Dodge D15 4dr sedan.............what?......a Dodge?...........its a Plymouth body, Dodge grille, Plymouth fenders,bumpers,head & tailights, Dodge badges & dash.............oh...and its a damn Hot Rod to boot!!!!!!!!...........and its got a 313 Chrysler Poly V8............what IS this thing???????.........well its an Oz built D15 1940 Dodge............these used a combination of Dodge & Plymouth parts and then I go and hotrod it........yep, its been a hotrod since 1973.......and the "chrysler" 318 engine.......well thats what the 1962 Chrysler Royals came with over here........a 1962 Chrysler Royal donated its running gear..............as for that p15 Plymouth and its Chev engine........so what???...........big deal.........at least its getting driven and used........you don't like it?..........don't look..............or better still, look, enjoy & compliment the owner for using it.........then go home and BUILD one better yourself............this is nice car.....and its a Plymouth to boot..........just leave it at that......Andy Douglas

I have an unusual question regarding roof lining attachment methods. A mate here in Oz is building a 1953 Ford F100 pickup with all late model Oz Ford Falcon suspension,steering, engine etc.........it will be a nice thing when finished. These F100's had very basic upholstery when new and my mate wants to have it all looking very comfortable........heres the thing.....the standard way of doing the roof lining as far as all the local upholsterers/motor trimers are concerned is to use a motor triming finishing piece called "hidem" which is run around the door openings and is used to tidy up the roof lining edges, its nailed or tacked over the roof lining edges with tacks installed inside the opened top/bottom piece and then this is folded down to cover the tack........here in Oz it was used on both my 1940 Dodge & 41 Plymouth.......I think it looks nice & tidy.......NOT my mate tho'..........lol.........we have both seen over the years in, we think, mainly GM products a method of attaching the roof lining where the trimer pulls the stitched edge of the roof lining down against the edge of the door opening catching a serated metal strip thats been previously screwed/welded around the door edge. Once the roof upholstery is "caught" by the serated edge of this metal strip the trimmer uses a rubber mallet to gently tap the serations down capturing the roof lining without using the "hidem" edging..............unfortunately no motor trimmer around here has either heard of this method or will admit to it...........my mate & I have searched the internet and scoured various catalogs that we both have trying to find a name, listing or picture of this "serated" metal strip......it is about 1" wide........various lengths I suppose, with stamped "teeth or serations along its length ...............Does anyone know what I am trying to describe is called or where it maybe found?..........lol..............many thanks for reading this far.........lol.........Andy Douglas.........dunno if the attached pic shows the "hidem" stuff clearly..........BUT this is NOT what we want.......lol..............andyd

Gidday from downunder, nice car.........andyd

Stan, there are 2 different shaped main cap seals, without seeing what you actually have its hard to say which would be the correct set but as you have both compare them to the ones that are currently there.......I pulled the rear main on my 41 Plymouth Coupe as it was leaking like a sieve and instead of the original rope seal it had a neoprene seal, but NO main cap seals on either side.........lol..........needless to say I found the leak.......lol...... I thought that as it "should" have had a rope seal I could replace top & bottom of that without dropping the crank etc, but this can't be done with the neoprene seal and as it didn't look too bad I just worked out which of the pair of side seals it should have and used that pair...........doesn't leak much at all from the rear of the pan now...........lol............the timing cover crank seal?.........well thats another story......and next job to be done..........but will need a speedie sleave as well........dunno if I have been much help...........regards, andyd

Try Best gaskets, dunno the website......andyd

In the Oz 1936-42 workshop manual the way to check your fuel guage is to compare it against a guage that is known to be o/k..........lol.................yeh right after 70yrs.......lol..........sorry can't help tho' both the 40 Dodge & 41 plymouth I have both have guages that read somewhat like yours.......will be interested in any responses............regards, andyd

We don't have NAPA here in OZ, I suppose REPCO would be the closest style of store, however they ain't open after Sat Noon, so I usually have to inflict myself on the poor young things at Supercheap, also known as Superchumps.........its fun when you go in there, wander around looking for something approaching a real car part as distinct from car washes, seat covers and doof,doof,doof radios...........then "parts boy" wonders up to you, in his squeakey, non broken voice......."can I help you sir?".........Yes I say............where are the points files?.............lol...................as soon as I heard the words leave my lips I knew I shouldn't have asked parts boy..........all of 16, he would not know a points file if it stuck him in the eye.........lol..........so I try to give him a quick rundown on what its for...........parts boy then has the bright idea to ask me what car its for............lol...........well, I say its for a 1940 Dodge Sedan with a 318 Poly V8 running a twin point Mallory distributor................parts boys eyes have just glazed over............I tell him that I'll bring the car in next time I'll going for a drive, but I think even thats a wasted execise...........still I had a good day.......dunno about parts boy tho'.......lol........regards..andyd

Rob, there are 3 plugs on the back of the block.....as you look at it, the small one on the left is the rear plug for the oil gallery that goes along the US drivers side, the centre plug, which is the largest is the rear water jacket plug and the one on the OZ drivers side or right hand side is the camshaft rear plug............good luck with the water tube..........lol.........andyd

Rock, yep thats what I am afraid of....... at the very least the bumper & irons then with it jacked up I might be able to insert it from below, but getting access to the bolt holes at either end might also be a problem............then of course theres the single bolt at the front that holds it all to the grille sheetmetal.............lol...........fun,fun,fun..........lol...........andyd

Shel, its probably a moot point but did you know that these are available made of brass......no more rust.......lol.......andyd

Dave, yeh that might be harder than it seems..............lol.........still........will keep me amused this weekend.........lol........andyd

Gareth, only real downside to the FX/FJ handles is that they tend to be pimply due to the diecast, also a good FX set with the white knobs are hard to find, the FJ ones are more common now, I don't think they have been repo'd either so its all original..........swap meets are the best place to find them now........andyd

As far as I am aware none of the flatheads were designed to take the new style plugs, they all should use the concave style in each location.....andyd