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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on October 19 2018

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. Andydodge

    Fuel Milage

    Frank, yep its probably a little overcarbed and I could get away with maybe a 465 Holley or even a 500 Edelbrock but its got a mild cam and being a hotrodder it at least reminds me of my youth when it had a big cam and a pair of 600 Holleys on a pair of Offy Cross Ram adaptors on the DV800 cast iron intake.........idled like a pig, but when the cam came in at about 2800 all hell broke loose.......lol...........heres the only pic I have of the twin 4 setup with an old pic of the engine bay with the single 4........and a pic of how it looks now........andyd
  2. Andydodge

    Fuel Milage

    The only time I ever worked out fuel consumption in my 318 Poly/Torqueflite powered 1940 Dodge was about 30 yrs ago coming back from a National Rod Run...........got 22mpg with a 600 Holley, dual exhaust over mostly flat or undulating ground.......probably still around that figure tho' around town and local driving it probably gets 15/16mpg........andyd
  3. Andydodge

    tie rods

    Both the 1940 Dodge and the 1941 Plymouth P11 I had both used the same tie rod arrangement, yeh they are RHD cars BUT the steering was exactly mirror reverse of that used on LHD cars and the short tie rod goes to the drivers side, the long one to the passenger side and they are BOTH straight without any bend in them......I'd get a another one or at least a new piece of cold drawn seamless tubing and make a new one............andyd
  4. Andydodge

    Front Shock Relocation Pics

    After thinking about relocating the upper front shocks on my car for the past few years I bit the bullet and with a mate recently relocated the upper shock mount on my Oz 1940 Dodge, this car uses the 1940 Plymouth chassis and wheelbase.......my car is a hotrod, using vented front discs and an Austin 1800 narrowed 9" rack & pinion so none of those things will be much help to those in the USA however we used Monro Matic shock absorbers that had the following numbers on them........PK14 and 1009, these shocks had an extended length of 12 & 1/2 inches and a compressed length of 8 & 1/2 inches....they are VERY short shock absorbers and use the large rubber eyes at each end.........the front end of this car uses 1955/56 Ford coil springs with one coil removed and we were able to make upper shock mounts from 3/16th plate that wrapped around the top edge of the chassis with a pair of brackets of the same 3/16th material projecting out between which the upper shock eye fitted..........the upper mounts were bolted to the chassis using 5/16th x 3/4" long high tensile UNC bolts, the bolts screwing into short plates with welded nuts inserted via an access hole against the rear of the outside and upper chassis rail..............I also replaced the heim jointed front sway bar links that had worn excessively with new greaseable heim joints and replaced both upper & lower rebound rubbers.............the attached pics hopefully may help others, my original intention was to use a pair of Dodge pickup truck front shock mount brackets however as the Munro shocks were available they allowed the manufacture of shorter bracketry...............and the blue noellothane sway bar bushes shown in some pics were replaced with better fitting pieces................I haven't had the opportunity to take the car out for a drive as yet as I have a few other jobs being done at the same time and am awaiting the return of some parts from the chrome platers, the steering wheel collapseable section being the main piece........hopefully in a week or two............happy to answer any questions if any.........Andy Douglas.
  5. Andydodge

    From a Generator to an Alternator.

    I would still suggest speaking to the Powergen people.........surely they'd know regarding the suitability and as pre 555/54 frods were positive ground like our Mopars it should be easy to get an answer................andyd
  6. Andydodge

    From a Generator to an Alternator.

    I am no expert but from what I understand these PowerGen alternators don't know what they are being fitted to so would just as easily work on our mopars, but I'd be contacting the company and speak direct to the organ grinder rather than us monkeys......don't get me wrong we can perform as good as the next act and I do like bananas........lol....... but I'd be contacting the company direct............and welcome aboard from Oz.............Andy Douglas.
  7. Andydodge

    New member

    Great pics of a nice car.....I especially like the 40 De Soto grille, very clean tasteful design, personally the nicest of all the 1940 Mopar grille designs and I have been playing with 1940 Dodges since 1969...........lol............and I second what Plymouthy has said about the 2 dr sedan, we never got anything apart from 4drs and some odd designed coupes here in Oz and the 2dr sedan has a very clean look to it...........again welcome aboard.........andyd
  8. Andydodge

    New member

    Welcome aboard from Oz..........these guys know their stuff..........we would love to see a pic of the car............regards, Andy Douglas
  9. Andydodge

    D24 and P15 spindles

    Upper control arms are handed, ie, right & left due to the offset to accommodate the upper shock mount pin but are the same 1941 thru to 1954.........shouldn't the stub axles be the same? so it should just be a matter of bolting the larger Dodge brake parts on?............happy to be proven wrong tho'.............andyd
  10. Andydodge

    47 p15 rr quarter fender area

    If you have the piece from a donor car even if its rusty BUT straight I'd be using it as a replacement, ideally cut as high as the replacement dogleg is needed........you may even be able to get away with using the same basic dogleg piece from a 4dr rather than a 2 dr as your car is...........I had to repair the same area on my car 45 yrs ago after I was sideswiped by a drunk driver.............interesting thing in my case was that after squashing the dogleg on my right hand, drivers side his car proceded to remove the complete drivers side rear fender shooting it over the roof of two cars following me , the fender was not in any way repairable, being shortened to 1/3 its length.........the body had small 2" square pieces of fender still attached but apart from the flattened dogleg the body was undamaged.................andyd
  11. Andydodge

    Tie Rod ends

    The limit bolts have a lock nut on them so you can screw them in/out then set them with the lock nut..........andyd
  12. Andydodge

    Split header - dual exhaust - reduced torque?

    Dunno about you but I've always liked pork, ham, bacon........theres some pretty pigs out there.........lol............oops......wrong forum..............lol.............seriously tho' an internal combustion engine is an air pump, air in, air out..........in general terms the more that goes in and goes bang with more fuel and the quicker it goes out with a corresponding reduction in the time taken for each piston to go up & down then the quicker the sheet metal attached to the air pump will go and the quicker it'll get up that hill..............at least thats what it has seemed to be over the past 100 odd years, so an extra carby, an extra exhaust pipe or bigger diameter of said pipe, an extra point or two on the compression, an extra set of points or an electronic ignition system are all ways that improve any engine...........it just depends on how you view the hassle..........I put a HEI on the stock 201 1940 plymouth engine and was more than happy with the better starting, smoother running and what seemed to be slightly improved performance...........the Beehive filter whilst didn't make it go any better helped to improve the 201 pigs appearance whilst I collected the bits for the 230 pigs deb ball..........unfortunately I had to sell both car and pig but would redo the whole execise in a heartbeat..........oink, oink, oink.......welcome aboard from Oz......Andy Douglas
  13. Andydodge

    Tie Rod ends

    Blue, I had't noticed that "little" dent in the pan..........lol...........the only steering lock limiter that I know of on our mopars is the adjustable limit bolt on the inside of the stub axle on each side......maybe the one on your car has been screwed in too far thereby allowing the pitman arm to gently "caress" the pan.............lol.............wouldn't it be nice if we could find a wayback machine to take us back to the time our cars were new so that we could ask the designer........how come its like this?...........lol....................andyd
  14. Andydodge

    Tie Rod ends

    The one up, one down orientation of the tierods is correct and as the tapers in the dog bone pitman arm will show is the correct way to install the tierod ends......I think you'll find that having them that way also increases the clearance under the oil pan on hard lock........and yep that wire is the horn earth wire.....and it is possible to get steering box oil, Penrite here in Oz make some so I would think something similar would be available in the US.............andyd
  15. Andydodge

    Steering Box for 46 Plymouth Special Deluxe

    Veemoney raises an interesting point re a loose steering wheel.......when I got the 41 Plymouth the steering wheel was loose to the extent that the wheel moved forward and back on the column about 3/8th inch...........I had bought the car without seeing it as it was 2000miles away tho I had pics that gave a good impression of its overall condition....anyway I took it off the transport truck and drove it straight into my garage........the 1st thing I checked was the steering wheel and found the nut held on to the shaft by 2 threads instead of there being 2 or 3 threads past the ends of the nut......apparently the PO was trying to get the horn working again and just forgot to tighten the nut..........lol.........anyway keep us in the loop re what you find..........andyd
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