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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on September 27

Andydodge had the most liked content!

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About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

Converted

  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  1. What Kind Of Oil Filter Fitting?

    Bingster.........what I said................btw Bingster.........do you have a workshop manual for this car?.........if so have you read it?...........if not I suggest you get one............and not a CD but a paper manual............you'll be surprised just what you will learn........regards, andyd
  2. What Kind Of Oil Filter Fitting?

    Yep, you guessed it......thats whats left of the oil line, probably the one that went to the oil guage on the dash as they have a rubber hose in the line to allow for engine vibrations..........so why did you cut it? ....the brass bit that spins is called a ferrul, when the hose is made it is clamped onto the rubber part of the hose.....it, the hose may have had a similar part on the other end or as this end is the "male" end the other end would probably have a "female" end that a hard line from/to the gauge screws into.............so long as you don't leave the opening in the block open you can run the engine but with it open all the oil will come out..........and its a good idea to have a working oil gauge so looks like you need to get another hose..............andyd..
  3. 1950 Water pump removal/installation

    Clarksville.........my listings shows that Chrysler 6's used the same water pump from 1936 to 1954, same one that Plymouth & Dodge used from 1935-1950.........I know that the water pumps that are now sold have an improved circular impeller and sealed non greasable bearings rather than the old style impeller that had a pair of opposing blades and used greasable bushings...........the old style impellers also had rebuild kits available and I can remember having to redo the rebuild job as there was a fibre washer that had a tendency to break..........the water pumps I've seen listed on ebay all seem to be the new type but check around....I obtained a new pump for the 41 Plymouth I had a few years ago and it was the new style...........a much better design........whilst you are playing water pumps, check the condition of the water distribution tube that lives behind the water pump in the block......if its corroded then it should be replaced although you may curse me for this suggestion as it can be a PITA job..........just make sure you get the correct water tube which "should" be to suit the 25" engine which your Chrysler should have........also worth checking the condition of the radiator hoses including whether you have a metal lower tube or coiled wire inside a one piece lower hose.....either maybe present..........depending on clearance between the radiator and the fan its sometimes better/easier to remove the fan from the fan hub then take it off, usually four 1/2" bolts then you can usually see where the water pump bolts are.............its worthwhile using a piece of cardboard to push the removed bolts into so that you can see which go where as they are different lengths..............also note that some water may come out of the block from some bolt holes.....make a NOTE of which ones..............then once the pump is removed the backing plate can be taken off and is usually cleaned up and used with a new gasket on the new water pump.............if you are not sure which bolts leaked water then work on the principle that they ALL go into the water jacket and after cleaning the bolt threads use some pipe sealer or Permatex type gasket Goo to coat the threads on all bolts and reinstall.............I think that there are torque settings for these bolts but so long as they are done up tight you should be good to go.............trust this helps........welcome & regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
  4. Need 6v help

    Thomba..........were'nt early VW's running 6 volts?........the guys may not have seen you are in Germany and US parts shops may not assist you...........have you tried Andy Bernbaum for a NOS coil, points & condenser?............. andyd
  5. I have had radials on my 1940 Dodge sedan since 1973, 205/65x14 and 275/65x15 and they are great........anyway when I bought the 1941 Plymouth Coupe it was an older restoration and came with Republic brand whitewall bias or crossplies, 600x16........I'd forgotten what a PITA crossply tyres were & are, wandering & following every groove in the road.........I replaced them and the wheels with wheel Vintique 15x6 and 15x7 Chrome Smoothies with Coker Classic Whitewall Radials, 195/75x15 and 235/75x15.........the new wheels and tyres were a HUGE improvement, no more wandering, seemed to steer better, handled better, looked better........in every way just BETTER as I drove the car at least 3-4 times per week..........I know some people prefer crossplies , they supposedly "look" more original, traditional, etc, etc........but for my money and here in Oz the wheel and tyre combination was over $3300.00 Aus so it was a substantial amount of my money but if you can afford them go with radials, I had NO problem with Coker tyres tho' I've heard some people have had various problems, have also heard similar issues with Diamondback tyres also but I ran the tyres at 35psi and they were fine, also no issues with low speed steering input either...........yep.....my 3 Oz cents worth........Andy Douglas
  6. Steering

    Bob.....just sent a long PM.........I woffle a bit.....lol..........andyd
  7. Running without inner/outer fenders

    Whilst this is a 1940 Dodge I thought the pic might help, I moved the battery to the trunk a few years ago after putting up with it under the seat for years, I made a metal battery box, cut out a rectangular piece from the wheel arch after temporarily removing the rear fender then welded the box in, it has a breather also......the battery cable goes thru to a Valiant console with a kill switch mounted on the side, battery box has worked well for 20 yrs now, the 2nd pic shows the kill switch , that little black knob at the bottom of the pic is the kill switch.........lol..........andyd
  8. Steering

    Do NOT bend the steering arms.......have some lengthened tie rods made up, 1" hex steel bar drilled and tapped to suit the Mopar tie rod ends and the Cavalier tie rods, ideally use right/left hand threaded tie rods and have the threaded holes in the hex bar right/left threaded so that when its all bolted together a 1" spanner can easily adjust the toe in/toe out........finding a suitable left hand tap is usually the main issue as well as a pair of left hand threaded nuts as the hex bar should have lock nuts on the exposed threads............andyd
  9. 1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Also meant to mention that when using the 41-54 upper A arms you also have to use the 41-54 upper rebound rubbers as the 39-40 ones have a stud in them that allows them to bolt onto the cast bracket on the side of the 39-40 upper arms whereas the 41-54 rebound rubber is held onto the upper a arm by the upper shock mount pin..........hope this helps...............andyd
  10. P15 dash install / rattle prevention tips / help

    The only ones that look familar to me and to be honest I'm going on my RHD Oz 1940 Dodge but in the 1st pic the piece with 2 holes I'm pretty sure is for the steering column/dash support bracket that bolts to the underneath of the dash and the column and gearshift shaft go thru the bracket......the 4 others look like anti rattle/squeak pieces that go between the underneath of the dash and the edge of the door jam......you can see the little bracket at each end of the dash in pic # 4........thats what the pieces look like to me......when I redid my Dodge I didn't bother installing the piping that was around the front screen garnish molding nor did I worry about those pieces are each end of the dash...................that was 40 odd yrs ago........lol.........but I suppose its worth doing if you have the time etc..........regards, andyd
  11. 1950 Spitfire problems

    As Knuckle said find another mechanic or two purely to get a 2nd or more detailed opinion, could be anything, even just a head gasket........also suggest getting a shop manual, a paper one and read it cover to cover( just did a quick search for 1950 Chrysler Shop manual on US ebay and theres about 6-10 paper copies available) .........these are not difficult cars to keep going just nowadays they are not common so you have to be a bit more persistent to get the correct info and result...........BTW Welcome to the forum from Downunder, it looks like a nice car............regards, Andy Douglas
  12. The Lowered Stance Picture and Build Thread

    Scotty..........thats low........like the Hemi Idea.......I've had a poor mans hemi, a poly in my 1940 Dodge since 1973........andyd
  13. Front Suspension

    Thats good......aren't 1940 Dodge owners just the best..........lol...........andyd.
  14. Front Suspension

    LOL...........all good...........where did you get them from?............andyd
  15. Front Suspension

    Zeke..........should've warned you..........we shouldn't be left alone..........we start playing with our nuts........btw......hows yours?...............lol...........find one yet?...........lol...........andyd
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