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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on September 30

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. I'm 2/3rds up the coast from Sydney towards Brisbane, so if you, Mark or indeed any forum members ever get to Oz and would like a bed or coffee feel free to let me know.........Andy Douglas
  2. I have also seen and used those red/orange fibre washers on the oil pan drain plug and even white plastic washers.......something to seal is whats needed....andyd
  3. Firstly I'd remove the grease nipple and give it a clean , then try to grease the pin & bush with a jack under the lower A arm and the arm jacked up so that its taking some weight..........ideally greasing the pin/bush when its at the "road height" should sit the thread in the pin/bush enough so that grease will flow thru.........when you removed the grease nipple did you try and poke a thin piece of wire in the pin to see if the grease has gone hard.........maybe even try a gentle application of an LPG or similar gas torch into the hole to try and melt the hardened grease.........maybe heat the thin piece of wire and pretend its the pins enema.........lol..............ain't cars fun............andyd
  4. From my knowledge each tie rod should have a left and a right tie rod end so that toe in/toe out can be adjusted without having to remove the tie rod end, but just by loosening the tie rod end clamp......have not seen different numbers for each side, ie, the short or long tie rod, due to the dog bone shaped pitman arm the tie rods attach from the top or bottom but have not seen any difference other than a left or right thread.........maybe we had it simpler here in Oz..............andyd
  5. I think the problem you have is the same that we have here.........the bush and pin have more tolerance built in than the current inspectors are used to due to there having to be sufficent space to allow grease to travel along the threads........I've found that the pins wear more than the bushes but having said that I suppose there would be some wear but have you taken a new pin & bush to the inspector to let him see what the original spec'd parts are like.....might give you some leeway then.........andyd
  6. Before removing the Upper Outer Bush clean the whole area of grease etc then use a centre punch to mark the adjacent spots on the bush, ideally on the "hex" area of the bush and on the upper A arm areas also on the spindle before undoing the lock bolt......... then when the bush is removed clean it thoroughly and inspect both the old and new bush and sit them together so that they are in the same "plane" and mark the new bush in the same spot on its "hex" with the centre punch.....also measure and note as accurately as possible the distance between the ends of the bush and the side of the upper A arm ........the bush itself should sit in the same spot in the spindle hole and then its just a matter of lining up the centre punch marks and ensuring that the bush & spindle assembly sits on the upper pin in the same place, then tighten up the lock bolt......and assemble the rest........hopefully this will reduce the need of a new wheel alignment........andyd
  7. As far as I know Carter BBD and Stromberg WW's had the same bolt patterns, if thats any help.....the Carter BBD was the standard 2 barrel carb on the small V8's such as the 273 & 318's..here in Oz the WW Stromberg was used extensively on GM's Holden 186/202 cube six and 253 V8's in the 60's & 70's.....from John Lees Standard catalog of Chrysler Plymouth had 140hp in the 1957-59 cars using the 2 barrel carby.........andyd
  8. Roger........had some good times at the Narrandera runs........after the 1st one in 1973 the stock restored engine started to leak and after a teardown I found swarf etc so that was the start of its hotrodding exploits, bought a 1962 AP3 Royal and installed everything from it........been downhill ever since........lol.........how'd you get the NSW mag with the Dodge article?.............I can sign it if you wish...........lol............tho' sometimes have trouble standing up let alone remembering my name...........lol.......regards, andyd
  9. Roger........so you're in the Vic Chrysler Restorers Club?.......I've been a member of the NSW Chrysler Restorers Club since it started in the early 70's tho' apart from a few club runs when I lived in Sydney have not been to any club runs......... I upset a few guys in the 1970's when I attended a large vintage car clubs event in the Dodge and had the temerity to open the hood on the Dodge and show off the V8....the mag wheels were bad enough, the V8 gave the restorers heart failure..........lol.......little did I care......lol.........may see your car in some pics of the Rally in the Club magazine soon......andyd
  10. James..........my understanding is that the triple ribbed bumpers that were prized by 50's customizers were only fitted to 1949/P18 series Plymouths.......the P15 and P18 cars are completely different, as far as I am aware no body panels and sheetmetal parts interchange, likewise chassis' are different......some suspension parts did carry thru or at least will swap but not much........andyd
  11. Apparently there were "leftover" 1948 P15 series Plymouths sold into 1949 as First Series 1949 Model cars...........and so are titled or whatever as 1949 cars, yet everything on them is 1946 to 1948 P15 stuff......well pretty much everything.........here in Australia they would have been sold as P15 series cars irrespective whether they were sold in 1948, 1949 or even 1950.....but as far as most guys on this forum would be concerned they are a P15.........BTW, welcome aboard from Oz..........andyd
  12. Dunno if this may help but many of our mopars use the high beam indicator light fitting to help attach the instrument cluster........I am not familiar with a 1949 Chrysler but I'd check under the dash whether your car has this attachment point...........usually the light globe fitting is clipped into the tubular piece that is then screwed onto the high beam plastic holder, you remove the light globe fitting then unscrew the tubular piece which then allows the instrument cluster to come away..........maybe............lol.............got a pic of your dash?............... ...........as for the cowl vent seal or gasket, they are all much the same also, you may have to access the attachment screws thru holes in the wire front of the vent door or flap.......these will loosen the actual flap from the hinge assembly allowing you room to pull the flap up and out of the way and get to the seal groove in the body.............loosening the actual attachment bracketry between the cowl vent under dash handle and the vent hinge probably won't be of much use as the cowl vent itself is still then attached to the same location, ie, the hinge and you still can't get enough space under the hinged cowl vent to attach a new seal........only by removing the actual vent door or flap will you gain the clearance you need........at least thats been my experience with my 1940 Dodge and 1941 Plymouth......I replaced the cowl vent seals in both and both were done the way I suggest...........but I could be wrong with your car.............lol.............Welcome aboard from Oz BTW............Andy Douglas
  13. In a radial size you'd find a 185x16 would be closest, or maybe 195x16 may fit...........bolt pattern is the same as full size mopar or even a Frod wheel tho' if the car has the original rims it should still have a locating lug which will restrict the use of other rims and also should, as far as I know have screw into the brake drum left and right hand threaded bolts which may or may not restrict wheel swapping.......1941 DeSoto's could be had with either 6.25 or 6.50 x 16 tyres, rims would have been 4" wide........andyd
  14. Robin........looks like an amazing weekend....congratulations!........andyd
  15. I can understand your annoyance but I think its better as it is, having said that I'm no expert nor moderator and it seems that the oldest first appears to be the way these threads are done on the internet, well, at least on the couple of forums I'm on.........I don't do facebook, tweeter or any social media apart from a couple of car forums and don't have a mobile phone so what do I know......lol...............regards from Oztralia.........andyd
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