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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on March 2

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. Sam.....hey its all good.........lol.........BTW.........has anyone said WELCOME ABOARD?.......lol..........well, welcome aboard...........regards from Oz..............andyd
  2. I'm no expert in this area but 1940 was the 1st year for sealed beam headlights and from then on they used those 3 prong connectors..........I rewired my car (after two halfarsed attempts in the early 70's) in the late 1970's and used those same style of connectors, the car is 12 volts and the headlights are H4's, originally Bosch brand as used in Volvo 164s then replaced with Hella H4's about 10-12 yrs ago when the Bosch headlights started to exhibit rust thru on their lower edge and were about to get a fail in the annual rego check................most of the wiring on my car was crimped using a no name brand crimping tool and so far, after over 40 yrs is still working fine..........those that weren't crimped would have been soldered however the only reason for this was that I decided that soldered joints were a better joint, not and I repeat, NOT due to anything failing, just due to updated installations or changed things...my car is a hotrod so originality whilst is nice was not my requirement..........BTW......when I rewired the car in the 1970's here in Oz, multi coloured wire was not commonplace, if you were lucky the local parts shop or auto sparky may have had half a dozen different solid coloured wires available, if you asked for something with a coloured trace in it they laughed at you.........so I went to the local car wreckers and bought 2 or 3 complete wiring harnesses from whatever late model( 1970's) cars that were being parted out.......I then completely unwrapped these wiring harnesses, cleaned every wire using turps or some sort of thinners and Da..Da!!........I ended up with lots of nice, "new" wire, all sorts of colours and lots of fittings that with careful study were able to be disassembled and I then rewired the whole car..............I even drew up a wiring diagram complete with a key to all the various colours including those with trace colours..............so far 40 odd years later it still works o/k........lol...........however now with the advent of the internet the access to the correct tools, wire and fittings is now much easier but the main thing I'd suggest is to take your time and try to do the best job you can..............both you and your car will appreciate it later on............regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
  3. I grew up with both systems but as my cars, well, real cars have Imperial system fasteners I concentrate on those....I do have a full set of metric spanners and sockets but its interesting that even metric sockets use 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch square drives........lol.........I've also got a set of Shitworth spanners but as they are from the land that has Lucas fridges and warm beer I rest my case.........lol........give me a UNF/UNC/SAE nut or bolt every time..........lol.............andyd
  4. Steve...........this is the type of puller I have used, had it since the early 70's and its never met a tapered axle that it didn't like...........lol...........there are various types available but all work on the same basic principle, they bolt onto the drum/hub then the large centre piece against the nut/axle..........undo the centre nut a couple of threads so its level with the axle shaft which will help to support & protect the threads then tighten the puller against the nut/shaft and usually all it needs is one or two good solid wacks, sometimes a little WD40 or similar and let sit for a few minutes to hopefully seep in and retighten the puller against the nut/shaft, then another wack........and Jan's warning about the tabs is right, leave them to help with centering the drum plate to the brake ring..........regards from Oz.........BTW......I've never heard of the situation that you have..........I'm sure that welding it will fix it, just needs to be done accurately and properly...............andyd.
  5. Metrics???......BAH HUMBUG!!...........I ask people what are those things on the end of their legs?........metres or feet?...........every metric bolt I find I throw in the bin.........andyd
  6. Bb..............have to take you to task here.......lol..............whats the idea of posting pics of a new 1948 Dodge 2dr???........lol...........seriously tho' you have a great car there, as you say, perfect for forgeting the days problems.........I could happily live with both the overall look of the car and the interior, just a nice way to sit, drive and enjoy the view...........and as far as the non stock carby....so what.....it works and thats what matters in my book..........I particularly like the battery setup, I'm a hotrodder but I especially like that sort of trickery that will fool 99% of restorers...........lol..........and the 58 Plymouth is looking good, nice engine swap...........Welcome aboard from Oz......Andy Douglas
  7. Welcome aboard from Oz............if the 1949 cars are anything like the earlier cars, certainly my 1940 model.......the radiator support frame is bolted down to the chassis or frame with those 2 bolts going into a section that you access the 2 nuts via an open area underneath the frame......you undo the nuts which ONCE the bolts that hold the engine bay side panels onto the radiator frame are also undone allows you to lift the radiator frame from the chassis WITH the 2 bolts sticking thru the frame.....on my car they are NOT removeable......those bolts, at least on my car are welded/attached to the radiator frame............note that my car has a couple of 1/8th plate "shims" between the radiator frame and the chassis........yours MAY also have the same.................anyway welcome aboard..........andyd
  8. Blue..........the centre bracket part that I made was just the stainless piece, actually 2 pieces..........which slipped inside that shaped grey painted Fulton piece..........the original setup was 2 1/2" wide strips that just curled around the centre windscreen bar.....and was quite flimsy............I bent the stainless as a 2 piece arrangement then used short pieces of 1/4" allthread so that I could have the chrome accorn nuts on both sides.............the weird thing with this visor was that I had never seen a Fulton visor in person till it arrived here in Oz, it was shipped with the pieces sitting on top of each other making a much smaller package but was easily assembled..........whilst it had a flat black finish on the top it had the green/yellow etch primer underneath and if anything looked like it had been made from the same aluminium that was used in WW2 and other aircraft........maybe it was due to the cancellation of aircraft contracts due to the end of WW2 resulting in an oversupply of thin alloy sheet........when I primed the visor prior to painting it I found that the grey primer almost a perfect match to the grey upholstery already in the car so left the underneath the grey, see the previous pic showing part of the inside sun visor...............whilst I can see that your visor is maybe not as ornate as that on my car I still think its quite stylish and just a nice as mine.........and as I sold the Plymouth in a fit of stupidity at least you can still look & enjoy yours...............lol.............andyd
  9. The biggest standard overbore I've seen is 60 thou.............better to get the engine measured up to see what it actually needs.........as far as superchargers go there are quite a few being put on factory engines now, maybe try some of the small Japanese buzz boxes for something that maybe suitable.......as for a decompression plate, as our mopars had a maximium of 8:1 in the late 50's and I think the 1949 engine was about 6.5:1 I wouldn't think there would be a problem nor a need for a decompression plate.........the main thing I'd be doing was ensuring that the oil pump was up to specs, as well as a an upgraded ignition and while you have the engine being torn down getting it balanced.................but there are some nice looking engines with a finned head, twin carbs and spilt exhaust/headers.......search on here for John Edges' wagon .......a blower would be nice but might be a bit fiddly to instal due to the belt/s needed...........regards from Oz............andyd
  10. Blue.........can't help re identifying your cars visor but I do like it.........similar to the Fulton 1000 series visor I had except for the way it attaches either side, I like yours as it seems to have a certain style that the various flat type don't........they look almost like a piece of board and with those weird brackets........lol...........but we all have our preferences..........my Fulton visor came from a guy on this forum 10yrs ago, he had it on his 48 Plymouth and didn't want it, I jumped at the chance, it fitted without any adjustment which was to be expected as Plymouth are the same around the front of the roof & windscreen 1940 to 1948......I painted it & polished the alloy brackets and kept the chrome edges shiney and made a stronger stainless centre bar bracket.............I'm a hotrodder .........lol..........regards from Oz......Andyd .
  11. Plymouth used the short roofed Coupe from 1940 to 1948, in 1940 & 1941 it was the only coupe body that Plymouth had and is mostly known as a Business Coupe that came with just the single bench front seat, however there were some Plymouth coupes in 1940 & 1941 that came with the Auxillary Seat Coupe option or ASC........these had the same short roof as the Business Coupe but had a pair of folding rear seats.....my 1941 Plymouth ASC Coupe was one such Coupe, see attached pics, the seat back lifted up to the horizontal which allowed the seat bases to fold into the back of the cabin wall, then the seat back was dropped back but it allowed a large carry space where the seats had been...........in 1942 Plymouth introduced the Club Coupe which had a longer roof and rear side window as compared to the coupe body used in 1940/41 which then allowed a full sized rear seat and this longer roofed coupe body continued from 1942 to 1948.............Plymouth continued to use the short roof coupe body as their Business Coupe from 1942 to 1948, which still only had the single bench seat.............trust this helps.........easy way for me is.......is your cars roof the same size in side profile as mine............the rear side window is the key..........short its a business coupe......long its a Club Coupe and should have a rear seat.........regards from Oz.............andyd
  12. Still would like to see a pic of exactly where its broken............as for the rivet heads I ground them down on the 41 Plymouth I had to fit Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies which were a multi fit bolt pattern wheel so there was enough clearance after knocking roughly half the height of the rivet off..........and the stock screw in bolts held the wheel, brake drum and hub all together .......but a pic of the broken drum would help................andyd
  13. If its like the ones I've seen over the years the drum is rivetted to the hub........so have the rivets broken?............for the quoted price of $350 what do you get?.....just a drum? or the complete hub and drum and is it NOS or what?............more info on what exactly has happened, pics would help............andyd
  14. Plyrod..........I don't suppose that you made a couple of spare glove box lock buttons just in case?..........lol.............I need one exactly the same as what you made, my car uses a plastic sort of knob thats worn..........you never know, there might be a market for these....lol..........andyd
  15. this was the Fulton 1000 series sun visor I had on my 41 Coupe.....they are adjustable in the width as mentioned...I'd also suggest to the intended purchaser that the centre braces need to be very secure, I replaced the stock ones with a much stronger setup made from 2 pieces of stainless sheet that was held/ clamped around the centre divider......it was much stronger than stock..........andyd
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