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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on March 2

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. I would be prepared to bet that both those data plates on the firewall have been replaced......and the "D14" has me curious.........I assume your car has the folding rear seats as it is an ASC or Auxillary Seat Coupe or at least thats what the ASC stands for in the D14 body plate.......I had a factory RHD South African assembled 1941 Plymouth P11 ASC Coupe which like yours had the folding rear seats, ........anyway looking at your car I would suggest that it is indeed a D15 model due to the Plymouth fenders, hood, headlights, grille sheet metal panel, tailights and bumpers......all these pieces are 1940 Plymouth.....the 1940 Dodge grille, grille sheet metal panel and badges are the Dodge bits.......lol...........I have had my Australian D15 Dodge 4 Dr Sedan since 1971 and have wrecked 6 more for parts etc over the past 48 years......all had been D15 models and the Plymouth fenders, hood, headlights apart from other features are the giveaways.......as for D14 cars I have seen 2 in 48 years here in Oz, both were sedans and did indeed have the D14 features which are the triple pressings in the fenders, short hood and twin parking lights in the headlight surrounds.............I have attached a couple of pics.............1st is of my 1940 D15 Dodge Sedan, the rest show the 1941 Plymouth Coupe I had but more importantly its shown with a mates US 1940 D15 Coupe that was imported into Australia about 10 years ago.......it was a business coupe so no rear seats however note the fender, hood, headlight, front bumper shape and tailights.....these are all distinctive D14 design features and you can see the difference between the D14 and D15 pieces in your car and my sedan............so for me your car is a D15, notwithstanding that D14 badge is intriguing but as its the only thing saying its a D14 I'd want to see a lot more evidence that the car is indeed a D14 as to me only 2 small screws say the car is a D14............the fenders, hood, headlights, tailights, bumpers say D15 ............anyway got any more pics?.......we love pics.....regards, Andy Douglas
  2. Robert, welcome aboard from Oz...........I have only ever seen "assembly manuals" for GM products such as 55-57 Chevs although I wouldn't be surprised if such things exist for mopars but have never seen them listed......the closest I've seen is the Parts Manuals and I ended up buying a repo version for the 1936 to 1942 Plymouth as at the time I had a 41 Plymouth Coupe and a 1940 Oz Dodge which is Plymouth based albeit with Dodge grille and badges etc.........the Parts Manual has a number of exploded diagrams which for the years it covers are helpful and maybe the 1950 or 1949 even Parts Manual might be useful.............dunno if this is any help.......again Welcome Aboard and pics...we love pics..........lol......Andy Douglas
  3. Sam.........I don't hold a brief for Bernbaums but did you contact them regarding the mounts and let them know the situation?..........andyd
  4. Years ago when I was young and silly I certainly worked into the early hours on the car.......I remember getting the 318 Poly installed and started finally early one morning, must have been 1 or 2 am.......we, myself, my brother and a mate had been working on it, I was 19, my brother and the mate would have been 17 so we were all bright eyed and bushy tailed.........lol...........anyway the engine was ready to go......and we started it up........no front sheet metal and no exhaust manifolds let alone an exhaust system and there were flames shooting 18" out of each exhaust port and the NOISE!!........YIPPEE!!!!......at 1 or 2 am.......... it was marvellous.....well at least WE thought so, my parents came down from the house which was above the garage and the source of the noise and politely asked that it stop............lol...............o/k.......so we did with smiles all round..........yep.............thinking about it, just typing this out makes me smile still, 45 years later.........I might not be young any more but silly?..........yep can still smile at that thought............regards, AndyDouglas
  5. Andydodge

    axle seals

    If I had to choose whether a leather or neoprene seal I'd choose a neoprene seal as I would think it would be of newer construction than the leather seal and hopefully in better condition although I suppose once the leather seal had been soaked for a while in oil it should be quite pliable.........also I'd use Timken bearings or some known ..quality bearing, unfortunately unless I could confirm the quality of a Chinese bearing then I'd pass on it........andyd.
  6. Andydodge

    axle seals

    Jsabah's 1st pic shows the inner seal as you can see the inside leather sealing edge and from my perspective it appears to be angled correctly back in towards the pumpkin.............his 3rd pic showing his fingers holding a seal shows the later style of neoprene or rubber seal in backwards as you can see the circular spring that is used to hold the sealing edge against the axle shaft and the "inside" area of the seal............this type of seal is shown as the 2nd one in the 3 pics by Keithb7 ...................there are 2 seals...........the inner seal as is being discussed on the pumpkin side of the bearing and the outer seal which is on the wheel side of the bearing and is held onto the outer housing flange via those five 3/8th UNF bolts that also hold the brake backing plate onto the housing flange...............my 2 Oz cents worth......Andy Douglas.
  7. Larkin............when you say the "lug studs" .....does it have left & right screw in bolts or left & right studs that use left & right nuts.........here in Oz as all Oz built mopars, ............ Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto & Chrysler up till the introduction of the Valiant here in 1961 all were Plymouth based and used the left & right screw in bolts but I understand in the USA the differing brands had differing wways of attaching the wheels............lol............andyd
  8. You are famous....well, sort of.......lol............seriously tho you gave a great impression and more so the car did...........good to get your 15 minutes of fame...........andyd
  9. Larkin........how are things going, we love to hear progress reports even if theres not a lot to report...........lol..........andyd
  10. Yeh, similar to what we have here........ethanol fuel is about $1.30 per Litre, 91 octane is about $1.40 p/L, 95 octane is about $1.50 and 98 octane is about $1.70per litre, 4.25 litres to the Imperial gallon which is slightly more than the US gallon........my Dodge uses 98 which works out to be about $7.00 per gallon..............yikes!!.........andyd
  11. I'd be checking whether any rebuild kit/rubber diaphram is suitable for the fuels used today....here in Oz we can still get non ethanol fuel, however from what I've read on here thats not possible in the USA so that would be my 1st concern.......andyd
  12. Reason I ask is that the Oz 1962 Royal like what I used does still have the cast iron trans which was obviously a carryover from the previous year and the last of the Oz Chrysler Royals.........andyd
  13. Tim........yeh, I knew about the Canadian extra year but didn't want to confuse the issue........lol..........the 62 Poly you have obtained......can you confirm what trans it has?......cast iron or alloy Torqueflite?........thanks, andyd
  14. Even if the parts car has been sitting for 15 yrs if you only want drum brakes then I'd remove the drums from it and get them checked for roundness and have them machined, brake wheel and master cylinders are available also...personally I'd be putting disc brakes on the front but as I'm a hotrodder thats my choice........and I would strongly suggest getting a Workshop Manual and Parts Book and read them cover to cover, even if you do only small jobs yourself you will be much better informed as to exactly what your car has and has not...........makes you in a better position to order work and confirm its done...........andyd
  15. I'd be surprised if the head bolts could touch the tube......generally its the tube being a PITA...........they can be VERY HARD to remove, I finally had success by using a pair of very large screw drivers jammed in each side at the front and sort of "wedging" the bastard thing out .....admittedly too I only had the engine block out of the car and it still was a mongrel to remove.............just getting bad nightmares again.........lol.............I thought I'd forgotten the pain.......lol................good luck........andyd
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