ushp12

Thanks for the input and the advice on using satellite posts for charging and jump starting Andy...i to have the opportunity of putting a 318 poly in my Plymouth, i already have one. If you don't mind could you tell me the transmission you decided on and what if any adaptor plate you used. I am thinking of changing the rear end to an 8 3/4 with 3.55 to 3.73 gears, but still deciding between an A-518 overdrive or a A-833 4 sp. Thanks.

Thanks vintage6t... I also was thinking the same thing about moving it to under the hood. I have a '41 Plymouth p12 where the battery is under the hood, i'll have to take a look and see what can be done to put the tray in the '40. The 12 v will be necessary for some of the other things i have planned. Thanks

I wish to move my battery from underneath the front seat to the trunk of my '40 Plymouth p10 deluxe. I was wondering if anyone has done the same and what it takes to get there. I will also be converting from 6 to 12 volt. I have seen some kits, but am wondering if that would be the best way to go. Thanks for all your responses in advance.

I've been looking through most of the forums that concern themselves with the 230cu. flathead 6 from mopar. I have a '58 Plymouth 230L6 in my '40 P12 Special deluxe, that I have heard is a good candidate for adding power. I've heard about line boring, cutting the deck and head for more compression, adding headers and a new cam, boring either .030 to .060 over. There are so many views on the proper fuel delivery , single one barrel, dual one barrels, triple one bbls. or 1 2bbl or 2 2bbls or maybe 3 ( which seems to be for only the 25" heads). I realize that some are using multiple carbs just for ( eye candy ). I want a car with enough to get me up a hill and on the freeway, and go freeway speeds. It will not be a show car, but it will look presentable at the local car show, and maybe turn some heads. I want to be able to drive it long distances if needed. I am thinking putting in a 8 3/4 rear end with 3.55 or 3.73 posi, I want it safe and reliable. Maybe a T5 tranny or an a518 overdrive. Just a nice car. Discs up front. That's enough rambling for know, any suggestions for getting me where I want go would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks to everyone that responded, the info was very valuable.

I am wanting to change my " Sealed Oil Filter " on my '40 Plymouth p10 to a canister type. On ebay there is a canister type no. 2909326 oil filter for '49-'54 mopars with flathead engines. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if that filter can be used on my '40 201 cu.in.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks Plymouthy Adams ,for what I don't know, I can't remember what the heck I was doing

test post

Hello everyone. I tried to start my '40p10 after coming back after 6mo. of absence. Before I left it started fine, but upon my return I found out that my Battery Maintainer was not doing it's job. So I went and got a new battery , no charge, and put it in. The outcome was not good, it would crank over but would not fully start. I could keep it running for a few seconds but it ran so rough like it was not firing on all cylinders, so I shut it down. Upon looking at the spark plug wires and the coil wire it looked like they had been burnt to a dark brown. I thought, ok, it is time for a tune-up. As I was pricing things , I ran into a surprisingly high price for the firewall coil. I see other coils for this car in the 15 to 25 dollar range, but 250 for the firewall mount coil. What is the difference and why? Is there a way to use the less expensive coils instead? Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks for the info. When would Honing be used instead of buying a whole Wheel Cylinder?

I have a few questions about the wheel cylinders on my 1940 Plymouth P10 Deluxe. I have replaced 2 cylinders with new one's ( rear ), and put new kit's in both front cylinders. The kit's that I put in the front cylinders were absent the Cylinder Piston Cup Expander's. In my '40 Shop Manual it states that Expanders are only used in Service Assemblies, does anyone know what that means? It look's to me that they are required for all 4 cylinders. I need to find 2 ea. per cylinder in the front. They are 1 3/8" and 1 1/4" per cylinder. Anyone? I was thinking about Honing the cylinders to make them smooth , good idea or not? What would be the correct Hone for the job? Thank's

I have a few more things I need to finish my '40 P10 Plymouth. I noticed that my clutch pedal would not return all the way to it's resting place. When I removed the Clutch Release Spring the clutch pedal would release all the way back, with the Spring in place there was a definite Drag not allowing the clutch to return all the way. Could this be just the Release Spring being worn out? I could use a Gasket for the MC, between the top plate and the body. Unable to find one, anyone know where I can get one? Is there any kind of Gasket Sealer I can use? Thanks!! Just want to get it out on the road, I still have many other things to do.

Don, and others: I ended up putting kit's in all of the wheel cylinders, got them from NAPA. They did not have one for the LR cylinder. know where I can get one? Seems its a different bore size than the front. This is probably a silly question, but in order to get the flexible brake line off I took off the cylinder and turned it to get it off. There must be an easier way. I have put the brakes bake together and forgot to twist the cylinder on to the flexible brake line, am I doomed to take it all apart again? Ohhh boy!

I also saw that the vent holes in the MC were free and clear.

I did receive a new MC kit, in the original box, and proceeded to install it in the MC. Everything fit very well. I then bled the MC using new fluid. I re-installed the MC and put everything back together. I then began to Bleed the Brakes and got fluid to each of the Wheel Cylinders. Before I bled the brakes I started the car to create some vacuum pressure. As I was bleeding, fluid came out of all the Bleeder Valves, but I had no pressure at the brake pedal. I noticed that after pumping the brakes, the fluid was going down in the MC. I kept it full. So I finally decided to stop to get more info. Also, when I tightened up the filler plug to the MC and pumped the pedal again, brake fluid was coming out of the air hole in the plug. I followed the diagram in the Service Manual when putting it back together, I could have swore I got it right. What am I missing? This is a '40 Plymouth p10, please help!

Thanks Rich, I found the MC kit that you were talking about and, I ordered one! Thanks again!

the kit that I used for my '40 Plymouth came with the wrong Piston, it was longer than the original and was a cylinder shape, not tapered. The Boot was also of a different type, longer than the original. I put the part's from the kit that were the same as the original one's and put the MC back together using the old Piston. I did use the new Boot...... could that be a problem?, it is longer too. Thank's to all of you that responded to my post! I will take it apart again. Could you help in where to go to get the correct kit? Thank's I am also having trouble finding the correct length Speedometer cable, inner. I sent for one that the seller said would work, knowing that the correct length wasn't what the part's book said. The book said that the correct length was 79 5/32 nds, and this one was 79 1/2 in.. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Last Nov. I posted a topic about my brake system where I had replaced a wheel cylinder. Since then I have bought and installed a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and bench bled it. I re-installed the MC in the car ,losing most of the fluid as I did. I filled the MC with fluid and thought that I was ready to bleed the system. I also purchased a vacuum style one person brake bleeder. Upon boosting the pressure until it stayed steady, I then loosened the bleeder valve, but no fluid would appear at the valve. Pushing the brake pedal would not create any pressure either. Do I need a new master cylinder? Thanks for the help in advance! anyone know where I can get a mc if I need one?

Yes! The length is 78 5/16 in., but it is broken on the one end. The speedo has not worked since I bought the car.

I have a '40 Plymouth p10 that needs a new inner speedo cable. I have seen some on various sites, but can't seem to find the correct length. My '40 parts book says it should be 79 5/32 in. long. Another site said 79 1/32 in. long. Any ideas where I can find this item with the correct length? Thanks! And everyone have great Christmas and a happy New Year!

Thanks Don!! The Photo's are helping a lot. It looks like it would be easier to take out the Front Floor Pan, and get the MC from the top? Maybe also to adjust the Pedal. My Clutch Pedal will not "spring" back to it's upright position. Spring maybe? Thanks again, Dan

Don, I will change out the Bleeder Valve that leaks with another one. I have not taken the Master Cylinder out of the car, so it hasn't been Bench Bled. Could you help me with the correct procedure to bench bleed the MC. Thanks again. Dan

I followed the procedure stated in the Plymouth Shop Manual, dated 1940. I put some clean brake fluid in a glass and ran a hose from the Bleeder Valve and submerged the other end in the jar with the clean fluid. I started from the Rear Right Brake and opened the bleeder just enough to push out the Air, and stopped when there were no more bubbles. I had a friend pump the brake pedal. I tried to keep the Master Cylinder full during the whole process. I then went to the Left side rear, and then the Right side front, and then the left side front. I am using DOT 3 fluid. If it was bleeding back into the master cylinder wouldn't there be a leak? I do have 1 leaking bleeder valve on the Left Back , is there anything to use on the threads that would keep it from leaking? Thanks for your help! I hope you have more idea's on what the problem may be.

I just replaced a leaking wheel cylinder. When I went to bleed the brakes ( all new bleeder valves) I was able to get all, or most, of the air out. I could not get the Brake Pedal to hold, it just keeps going to the floor. I know that it is critical to keep the Master Cylinder full of fluid during the process and to close the Bleeder Valve before the hose is detached. Anything else I should possibly repair or replace? Thanks!

I am building a "tribute" car in my dad's memory. I am putting a 318 Poly in my '40 Plymouth that will be the same as the '57 Plymouth Fury w/ the v-800, my dad bought one new in '57. What can I do to make the stock IFS work with this new engine (or do I need to opt for a new MSII IFS)? The engine will have a new cam to match the '57 along with the stock Dual Carter Carbs and manifold. I understand that there is someone on this site that may be able to help me with Parts for the stock IFS? 300 possible hp. 290 was stock. Thanks !