Jump to content

lalkie

Members
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

2 Neutral

About lalkie

  • Birthday 02/07/1949

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Colorado Western
  • Interests
    Old Cars, machine tools
  • My Project Cars
    1956 Mercury 1952 Dodge B3B 1952 MGTD 1938 Ford 1929 Ford

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    retired

Recent Profile Visitors

287 profile views
  1. The distributor is an original that appears to be good shape, the points are from napa and new, I only have one dwell meter and it appears to be accurate on my other cars, I will check the plate to see if that is a problem. I will check the point setting. I will have to check the gear ration in the rear end. It has a 3-speed but I plan on putting a 4-speed in it later. I think it came with a 4-speed. Thanks for the response . Larry
  2. I recently had a topic backfire and missing and received a lot help. that part has been basically fixed. I now can't my dwell higher than 20 degrees. I have pulled the distributor stetting the points a .025, had someone run the starter and moved the point adjusting screw without getting the dwell above 20 degrees. the points and distributor are new, the distributor has about .002 run out when checked with a dial indicator. The truck runs fine up to about 45 mph but is not quire right. I am using the truck but would like help solving the problem. Thanks Larry
  3. Merle was right the point spring was in wrong. Thanks Merle. I probably had a number of problems this was the final on or maybe the first one. I appreciate the help from the forum I can now continue working on other things as working on old vehicles continues. I can now use it as planned and finish as I drive. Larry
  4. It sounds like Merle may be right. I am going to check the points again. I thought it might be point bounce because the dwell drops when I increase the RPM. It looks it is happening with the old and new points. Thanks again. Larry
  5. I replaced the distributor with another one. Bot distributor had 3 thousands end play at the cam when checked with a dial indicator. I still have a high speed miss at about 35 to 40 mph. The points and condenser are new I put on a .8 ohm ballast resistor new wire to the distributor the cap and rotor look good the firing order is correct the coil is new the vacuum advance moves the distributor plate and shows advance when vacuum is applied. It acts like the points are bouncing at high rpm. It also backfires sometimes but not all the time. Still not sure what else I can do. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
  6. Mine isn't like that. The pump rod comes out of the bottom of the float bowl and a spring that wraps around the rod attaches to the u shaped bracket hooked tot the butterfly rod. I hooked a new dwell meter to the truck and it showed 35 degrees of dwell. As I increase the RPM the dwell drops to about 5. I have another distributor and will look at it to see if it is better. The advance curve seems to be working while watching it with a timing light. thanks for the picture everything helps. It looks as if I am getting to the bottom of the problem. Larry
  7. I will check again but if I remember correctly there is just one hole in the linkage to the pump and one on the throttle lever with a u shaped piece to connect them. My backing plate seems to be free but I haven't checked it for full movement something I had better do Thanks Larry
  8. The accelerator appeared to have one setting. The power valve ( I guess that what it is called) does have a screw on the bottom of the carb to allow it to open farther. I may play with it to see if that helps. I still think it is the vacuum advance as it smooth's out when I accelerate at about 40mph then bleeds off. I found an morose adjustable advance on the net but haven't had chance to talk to anyone to see if will work on a dodge distributor. I am just looking for options. Thanks Larry
  9. I will try disconnecting the vacuum line and see if that helps. The vacuum of 14 at 5000 ft is about normal for this area. Thanks Larry
  10. It has good steady vacuum about 14 inches. I haven't checked the dwell yet but I think it is good.
  11. I rebuilt my Stromberg BXVD-3 carb. This helped with idle and low speed performance. I put in a 12-V coil a .8 ohm ballast resistor, new points and condenser. This seemed to help but it still bucks' and once in a while pops thru the carb at 40 mph. When I accelerate at this speed it smooth's out to some extend. When I suck on the vacuum advance it moves the plate in the distributor but will not hold the plate in the advance position. So it is probably the diaphragm in the vacuum advance. I am probably looking for ways to not spend money on it. The vacuum advance is about $70.00. Let me know if any one has had the same problem. Thanks Larry
  12. I put the 6-V coil on and it helped. I rebuilt the carb Stromberg BXVD-3 and that helped with the idle and lower speeds. It is much smoother. I can know get to 40 mph without the bucking. But it starts again about 40. I haven't replaced the points or condenser yet but will try that later. I beginning to think it may be the vacuum advance. I appreciate the help. Know is smarter than all of us. thanks Larry
  13. Well I solved part of my problem. It had a 6-V coil. I switched it to a 12-V and it is working better but still has the surging problem. I guess I created part of my problem. I am going to rebuild the carb to see if that helps and will probably replace the points and condenser. I will probably put in a .8 ohm ballast resistor. Live and learn. Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it progresses. Larry
  14. I have a 52 B3B that was overhauled and seems to run fine at idle and when increasing rpm in the shop. When I drive it on the road it does not want to go over 30 mph and begins missing and sputtering some popping thru the carb. the plugs are new, firing order is correct, plug wires new, distributor cap not cracked. I have converted to 12V but did not change the points. The points do have a frosting around them. I do not have a ballast resistor to the coil. I am sure the valve timing is correct but have not checked it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use