The Oil Soup

Mine came with the pump straight out from the engine and the splash pan under it has a hole there to service the sediment bowl from below.

Take off those Phillips screws and rotate the top counterclockwise 60°, put it back together and you should be good.

Another thing you need to do is file off any snags on the pinch weld so the gasket doesn’t get scarred during the install. 

I had pulled the original 218 from my truck and rebuilt a 230 for it, had George Asche split the exhaust manifold and modify the stock intake manifold for dual carbs, I also followed John-T-53s 

T5 project and installed a T5 behind the flathead 6 with a Jeep Cherokee 3.55 rear, so to answer your question the motor is really peppy now and the trans makes a huge difference in city traffic and on the freeway!

I have a 23” 230 with a stock manifold modified by George Asche to  mount dual Carter B&Bs.

I screwed a piece of garden hose to the underside of the floor board to cushion the pedal return and cut and super glued the draft seals onto the pedals.

I have the same bed on my ‘53, the drivers side is a mirror image of the passenger side but I believe it is shorter because the license plate hangs off the taillight behind it. That’s how mine is, maybe someone modified it.

I’m in the middle of putting a T5 in my truck and following John-T-53 Project T5

so on Saturday I installed the transmission mount ( Trans-Dapt #9444 ) and attached the battery ground cable to the transmission, getting the driveshaft shortened this week and still need to fab a bracket for the e-brake.

My truck is a ‘53 but Arizona issued plates in ‘52 and ‘54, a metal tag was used to cover your ‘52 plate. Arizona only requires a single rear plate.

The manual lists hot clearance as intake 0.010” and exhaust 0.014” so doing both cold at 0.014” is going to make the exhaust valves a bit tight and the intakes too loose. If you’re doing them cold try adding 0.001” or 0.002” and see how that works.

Tool C-522 is not needed, install the cover with a couple bolts to loosely hold it in place, mount the pulley/hub to center the cover then tighten the bolts. Don’t forget to install the “felt” donut/dust seal between the cover and the pulley.

On 3/12/2023 at 3:00 PM, Bryce Mcclintock said:

I see yours are made of rubber or neoprene?  I'm sure the ones in my set were made of cork as well as the side pieces maybe the cork doesn't seal as well? 

His look like oil soaked cork.

This is the one I ended up buying and trimmed off the angled piece on the upper inlet. I think Don used the same radiator on his car.

https://www.championradiators.com/product/CC4749

Here is the website. https://www.championradiators.com/Plymouth-Special-Deluxe-radiator-1949-1952
 

I used a radiator from them that has worked flawlessly for several years but it wasn’t the one listed for my truck ( filler located in the center ) but maybe the one shown. They list measurements, that should help.

You can plug the heater inlet/outlet and not bother with a hose.

I remember this video from machine shop 101, after watching it one of the questions was “is the number of safety violations greater than, lesser than or equal to the number of steps used in finishing the crankshaft?” The process is very interesting and the guy without a shirt at 21:30 rocks! Neat vid!

Mine has a return spring on the brake pedal also. I used a master cylinder and proportioning valve from a ‘93 Jeep Cherokee.

Is the fuel contaminated?

I had mine gone through at the local alternator rebuild shop in town and it works fine on 12v and there is an adjustment on the switch as to when the starter will engage, check the shop manual.

I use a little JB weld to help hold the pipe in and minimize oil leakage. A propane torch can be used to soften the JB weld for disassembled.

I picked one up at Ace hardware.

The rear end was from a ‘93 Cherokee, and the original drive shaft bolted up to it.

The master cylinder and proportioning valve mounted underneath were off of a ‘93 Cherokee. Some don’t care for it because of the plastic construction and would prefer all metal look.

Solga, I did post the info for you because you mention power brakes and Im not sure that is necessary. The dust storm or haboob is very unique to this part of the country.

I have disc brakes on the front, drums on back and Cherokee master cylinder, the truck stops fine without power assist.

I used a Cherokee 8.25 rear (3.55) with drum brakes and it is slightly narrower than the stock rear but no problems with clearance.