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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

Recent Profile Visitors

646 profile views
  1. squirebill

    Dodge Ram?

    I like to point out to the young bucks with their newer Dodge Rams that their trucks have some of the same design elements as my '49 B1B....high hood, low fenders....radiused wheel wells with fender flares. What was old is new again.
  2. squirebill

    Rear Brake Cylinder Brake Line Fittings

    I used the Edelman part number you found. Enlarged the hole through the backing with a plumber's taper reamer. Don't forget there is a copper crush washer used between the adaptor fitting and the wheel cylinder. Regards.
  3. squirebill

    Glass Questions

    So if your building a "competitive show truck" you may not be interested in this. If your building a "Driver", this worked for me. This past summer replaced both side windows (no vents) on my '49 B1B. I used 2" wide Gorrila tape cut into about 3" lengths and wrapped them around the bottom edge of the glass going from the inside, around the bottom, and then up the outside of the glass. Put on enough layers of these strips until I got a good snug fit when I placed the channel on the glass. Seem to remember it took about 5 pieces of tape for 10 layers. Did 4 sections of this spaced out along bottom of glass. Then cut the excess tape off flush with the channel and ran a bead of clear silicone sealer along the glass and the top edge of the channel. Works fine for my purposes. Just as an aside, as a kid in the '60s, used to hang out at a local gas station that also did mechanics work. Helped the mechanic replace a window glass. He used strips of old tire inner tube between the glass and channel. I think it took 2 or 3 strips laid in the full length of the channel, then soapy water, then the glass was pushed in and excess soapy water blown away with the air hose. Excess inner tube was cut away with razor blade. My pay for helping him was a 10 cent 8 oz. Coke in a glass bottle out of the vending machine. Though I wasn't old enough to drive yet and didn't really care about the price of gas, I think it was about 26.9 cents per gallon. Regards
  4. squirebill

    1954 Fargo Clutch Linkage

    allanp.....you can read my posts about not having enough travel at my clutch pedal to shift properly if you search on "clutch installation". Use the quotation marks in the search block. As I said, I thought I had a problem with my clutch linkage components but it turned out my flywheel had 0.200 inches machined off the face. Regards.
  5. squirebill

    1954 Fargo Clutch Linkage

    OK....So I had a similar problem with my '49 Dodge B1B. Clutch pedal had like 3 inches of free play before the throw out bearing contacted the clutch fingers then when the pedal was all the way to the floor seems the clutch wasn't fully released and had grinding shifts. After a bunch of checking all the linkage components , throw out bearing sleeves, clutch disc, etc.,etc. it was finally determined my fly wheel had the face machined. Instead of being a stock thickness of 1.300 inches, 0.200 inches had been machined off it ending up with it being 1.100 inches thick or there abouts. Remedy was to adjust the clutch fingers to accommodate. The guy that rebuilt my clutch made the adjustment so I don't know how many turns of the bolt is reguired. Don't know the standard thickness of a Fargo flywheel but it may be worth a check. Regards.
  6. squirebill

    Hand Crank a 218

    Anybody started a 218 cu. in. engine with a hand crank? I'm building up a 218 for a B1B and was wondering if it is worth the effort to use a hand crank style crankshaft nut. The engine I'm replacing had to be scrapped out due to a cracked block. It had a hand crank nut but was seized to the crank shaft. In my working life I had the opportunity to hand crank a Wisconsin V4 engine, 154 cu. in. I think, but was not able to get it started. Anybody successfully started a 218 using a hand crank? Regards
  7. squirebill

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Did you ever come to a conclusion on the "white smoking and bad" problem?
  8. squirebill

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Coming in on this thread a little late. A few years back had my B1B at a shop for some bodywork but ended up replacing the whole cab as it was less expensive than repairing the four lower cab corners. In the process, the rolling chasis was set outside for a number of months without being covered. When the shop folks finally got the cab and bed installed they discovered the "rolling chasis" would not roll anymore. They suspected the engine was seized and started adding diesel fuel, etc. down the spark plug holes. Returned the non-rolling truck to me at my insistance. I separated the engine and transmission and found the engine was free but the transmission was seized. While the transmission was out I got the engine running and, like you reported, would start smoking white smoke after a few minutes of running at idle. The truck was sitting on a slight down hill grade in my yard so I drilled a 1/8 inch dia. hole at the front lower surface of the muffler and sure enough got about a quart of fluid (diesel fuel and whatever else they had put down the spark plug holes). Don't know how long it would take to burn off this much oil but she runs great now with no smoke. Filled the 1/8 in. hole with a sheet metal screw. Then, like you, went on to the brake system. I would recommend if there is any way you could salvage your current wheel cylinders do so. The cylinders being sold now must be coming from off shore (China, et al) and have quality problems resulting in leaks and fitment. Others on this forum have reported the same. The rear wheel cylinders for my truck I bought from Bernbaum are actually front wheel cylinders from cars and the inlet port is sized to fit a brake hose not a hard line as on the rear of a truck. There is an adapter fitting required to get these cylinders to take a hard line. When I was doing mine, Bernbaum didn't have the adaptors...he may now. I don't remember the part number but the manufacturer was Edelmann. Love your truck. Good luck and have fun with it. Regards
  9. squirebill

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    So after doing some pondering on this after I completed the brake lines on my B1B, I remembered my daily driver from the mid '60s was a '50 Plymouth 4 door sedan. It had the two wheel cylinders on each front brake and the single cylinder on each of the rear brakes. So in this case the front wheel cylinders that poke through the backing plate would have a hose running to them to allow the wheels to pivot for steering. When we get over to the trucks with the two wheel cylinders on the rears maybe the various vendors are supplying the front "car" wheel cylinders (that take hose ends) in place of the rear "truck" cylinders that should take the hard line brake fittings. A question might be: did the trucks really use front "car" cylinders on the rear of the trucks with the adapter fittings or did the trucks have rear cylinders that were drilled and tapped for the hard line fittings.
  10. squirebill

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    OK, so I did brake lines on my '49 B1B a couple of years ago. The major bugaboo I remember is the rear cylinders I purchased from Bernbaum were tapped for hose ends and not hard tube fittings. Called Bernbaum to report this discrepancy and he advised he had always sent out these wheel cylinders for the rear of B1B trucks and couldn't understand why I was having a problem. We discussed using an adapter fitting to get from the female hose port to the hard line tubing nut port but he had no such adapter fitting. I searched it out and located the fitting at Summit Racing under there part EDD-265400. When I received them they were in a poly bag with "Edelmann 265400" stamped on it. This adapter fitting also required a copper crush washer between the adapter and the wheel cylinder. Also, I had to enlarge the hole in the backing plate to allow for the hex of the adapter fitting. Would recommend you check the port on your rear wheel cylinders and verify they are tapped to receive the hard line tube nut. If not you will probably need the adapter fittings stated above. Note, I was working on a B1B with Bernbaum cylinders. You are working on a B3B with your cylinders and what happened to me may not apply to you. Regards
  11. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    Hope you don't mind laying a couple more lashes on this dead horse......but could you please advise what are items "Z", "EE" and "DD" ?
  12. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    Once again, grounds and the heavier gage of wire for a 6 volt DC system comes around to bite somebody. But for my own education please advise where the two unmarked wires coming off terminal block E finally connect. Does one of them finally connect to the input of the dimmer switch? Regards.
  13. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    I'm thinking if you have dash lights your grounds are good. If you by-passed the light switch and went with a hot wire directly to the head light hot leads and the bulb lit, the ground for the head light is good. This gets me back to the wiring diagram. I compared your diagram for the 47 WC against my diagram for a 49 B1B. Looks like they both have the 6 terminal light switch. My headlight wire comes off the terminal of your wire 28 at your headlight switch. My headlight wire goes from the headlight switch to the input terminal of my dimmer switch then out of the dimmer switch to the HI and LO of my headlights. Your wire 28 comes off the headlight switch, goes to item "L" (a connector?) and then becomes wire 13, goes to item "E" (a terminal block?). Off of item "E", wire 12 feeds a single bulb "V". Your wiring diagram is cut off and doesn't show me where the other two wires from item E are going. So the question becomes: do either of these two wires come back and feed the input of the dimmer switch, item V. You have to have a Hot wire coming off your headlight switch and feeding the input of the dimmer.
  14. squirebill

    Hyd hitch brake

    Had a little experience with these in my working life. We made specialized trailers for the US Air Force and other air forces around the world. Trailer weighed in at 19000 lbs. Only complaint I ever heard about these things ( we called them surge actuators) was they were a pain to bleed because you had to find a way to overcome the spring force to apply pressure to the system brakes so the wheel cylinders could be bled. Also, trying to back- up the trailer was sketchy because as you did you were first applying pressure to the brake system until the cylinder piston reached an internal relief slot that would bleed off the pressure suddenly. Now your tow/push vehicle that was throttled up and applying pressure to the trailer brake system was suddenly freed and the trailer would move rearward maybe a little faster than intended. This was maybe OK on a runway where there was plenty of room but in a confined area the four wheeled trailer was pushed backwards using man power. Regards.
  15. So I finally got my '49 B1B up and running and into the town 4th of July Parade. With 98 deg. temp was a little concerned with it over heating. Temp gage got to 180 deg. and held there for the full length of the parade, about 3 hours of running time. Anyhow, this is the first time the truck is on the road since 1975 even though at the speed of smell in the parade. The brake shoes are also circa 1975. I am looking for recommendations for quality brake shoes (made in USA if possible). Have read on this forum of replacement parts from overseas that lack quality and performance. Hoping to find quality replacement shoes that others on the forum are happy with. Best regards to all.

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