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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

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737 profile views
  1. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion of stuck rings based on your findings. Stuck rings would result in oil soaked spark plugs, blue smoke in the exhaust, lack of power. What is the oil pressure when idling and higher RPM ? Does your coolant look milky at all? Have you done a compression test? Regards
  2. Sorry to hear it is still bound up. Here are my thoughts: Tapping on one piston is actually trying move all the pistons since they are all interconnected through the crank shaft. Also you are trying to move the valve train since it is connected to the crankshaft through the timing chain. Not to mention you are trying to rotate the the input shaft of the transmission if the clutch is engaged. I would try to separate some of these things and get things moving. For example: Front clip is off: remove front motor mount and remove timing chain cover and cam drive sprocket and timing chain. Reinstall cam drive sprocket and see if camshaft will rotate. Tap piston and see if crank shaft will rotate. You get the idea. Separate all the systems that are currently tied together and try to get them free, one by one. Regards.
  3. Have you made any progress freeing the engine. Hope so, and if so, how did you do it?
  4. Yep.....under the spring and to the rear of the spring hangers. Check the fittings on the old lines to your new wheel cylinders. The new wheel cylinders I got were actually front wheel cylinders for mopar cars . They were tapped to have hydraulic hoses running to them and not hard lines. Needed an adapter hydraulic fitting and crush washer to adapt the front wheel car cylinders to the rear of my B1B.
  5. Sent my B1B to my nephew's brother"s body shop to have the four cab corners redone. They took the cab off and into the shop to work on it and left the rest of the truck outside. When I got the truck back was told the engine was seized. Said they had soaked the pistons to try to free them with no luck. They pulled the driveshaft so they could roll it around and get it on the flatbed to deliver it to me. I pulled the transmission and the engine was free, it was the transmission that was seized. Pulled top cover of trans and it was half full with water with gears rusted together. Rebuilt trans and was good to go. Recommend you drain the trans and look for water. Just saying.
  6. That ought to do it. Stick with something you have experience with. Good on ya.
  7. My thoughts exactly. Radiator cap seemed like an easy way to develop pressure in the system.
  8. Guess we all have our experiences. My experience with Barr's leaks has been nothing but positive. Most dramatic was with a coolant leak between the piston jug and block of a Subaru horizontal/boxer engine. Leak went from 1 drop per second to zero within about 15 minutes. With your truck, may have to pressurize the cooling system with a 15 psi radiator cap unless your using one already. My B1B cooling system is not pressurized. If I had your leak would definitely try Barr's Leaks with 15 psi radiator cap.
  9. Same with my manuals. Intake at .010, exhaust at .014 when hot.
  10. Did you swap it with a VR you already had or did you purchase a new VR. If you purchased new, where did you get it. Also, kinda makes you wonder what went wrong with the old VR from the last time you ran it 'til your spring start up. Did you remove the cover to see if there was anything obviously wrong with the old VR?
  11. Sounds like a "short". Disconnect a battery cable and see if the ammeter goes to zero. If not would suspect a bad ammeter. If it does go to zero, hook the battery back up at night or in a dark garage and you may be able to see the arc at the location of the short.
  12. I like to point out to the young bucks with their newer Dodge Rams that their trucks have some of the same design elements as my '49 B1B....high hood, low fenders....radiused wheel wells with fender flares. What was old is new again.
  13. I used the Edelman part number you found. Enlarged the hole through the backing with a plumber's taper reamer. Don't forget there is a copper crush washer used between the adaptor fitting and the wheel cylinder. Regards.
  14. So if your building a "competitive show truck" you may not be interested in this. If your building a "Driver", this worked for me. This past summer replaced both side windows (no vents) on my '49 B1B. I used 2" wide Gorrila tape cut into about 3" lengths and wrapped them around the bottom edge of the glass going from the inside, around the bottom, and then up the outside of the glass. Put on enough layers of these strips until I got a good snug fit when I placed the channel on the glass. Seem to remember it took about 5 pieces of tape for 10 layers. Did 4 sections of this spaced out along bottom of glass. Then cut the excess tape off flush with the channel and ran a bead of clear silicone sealer along the glass and the top edge of the channel. Works fine for my purposes. Just as an aside, as a kid in the '60s, used to hang out at a local gas station that also did mechanics work. Helped the mechanic replace a window glass. He used strips of old tire inner tube between the glass and channel. I think it took 2 or 3 strips laid in the full length of the channel, then soapy water, then the glass was pushed in and excess soapy water blown away with the air hose. Excess inner tube was cut away with razor blade. My pay for helping him was a 10 cent 8 oz. Coke in a glass bottle out of the vending machine. Though I wasn't old enough to drive yet and didn't really care about the price of gas, I think it was about 26.9 cents per gallon. Regards
  15. allanp.....you can read my posts about not having enough travel at my clutch pedal to shift properly if you search on "clutch installation". Use the quotation marks in the search block. As I said, I thought I had a problem with my clutch linkage components but it turned out my flywheel had 0.200 inches machined off the face. Regards.
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