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squirebill

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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

Recent Profile Visitors

704 profile views
  1. That ought to do it. Stick with something you have experience with. Good on ya.
  2. My thoughts exactly. Radiator cap seemed like an easy way to develop pressure in the system.
  3. Guess we all have our experiences. My experience with Barr's leaks has been nothing but positive. Most dramatic was with a coolant leak between the piston jug and block of a Subaru horizontal/boxer engine. Leak went from 1 drop per second to zero within about 15 minutes. With your truck, may have to pressurize the cooling system with a 15 psi radiator cap unless your using one already. My B1B cooling system is not pressurized. If I had your leak would definitely try Barr's Leaks with 15 psi radiator cap.
  4. Same with my manuals. Intake at .010, exhaust at .014 when hot.
  5. Did you swap it with a VR you already had or did you purchase a new VR. If you purchased new, where did you get it. Also, kinda makes you wonder what went wrong with the old VR from the last time you ran it 'til your spring start up. Did you remove the cover to see if there was anything obviously wrong with the old VR?
  6. Sounds like a "short". Disconnect a battery cable and see if the ammeter goes to zero. If not would suspect a bad ammeter. If it does go to zero, hook the battery back up at night or in a dark garage and you may be able to see the arc at the location of the short.
  7. I like to point out to the young bucks with their newer Dodge Rams that their trucks have some of the same design elements as my '49 B1B....high hood, low fenders....radiused wheel wells with fender flares. What was old is new again.
  8. I used the Edelman part number you found. Enlarged the hole through the backing with a plumber's taper reamer. Don't forget there is a copper crush washer used between the adaptor fitting and the wheel cylinder. Regards.
  9. So if your building a "competitive show truck" you may not be interested in this. If your building a "Driver", this worked for me. This past summer replaced both side windows (no vents) on my '49 B1B. I used 2" wide Gorrila tape cut into about 3" lengths and wrapped them around the bottom edge of the glass going from the inside, around the bottom, and then up the outside of the glass. Put on enough layers of these strips until I got a good snug fit when I placed the channel on the glass. Seem to remember it took about 5 pieces of tape for 10 layers. Did 4 sections of this spaced out along bottom of glass. Then cut the excess tape off flush with the channel and ran a bead of clear silicone sealer along the glass and the top edge of the channel. Works fine for my purposes. Just as an aside, as a kid in the '60s, used to hang out at a local gas station that also did mechanics work. Helped the mechanic replace a window glass. He used strips of old tire inner tube between the glass and channel. I think it took 2 or 3 strips laid in the full length of the channel, then soapy water, then the glass was pushed in and excess soapy water blown away with the air hose. Excess inner tube was cut away with razor blade. My pay for helping him was a 10 cent 8 oz. Coke in a glass bottle out of the vending machine. Though I wasn't old enough to drive yet and didn't really care about the price of gas, I think it was about 26.9 cents per gallon. Regards
  10. allanp.....you can read my posts about not having enough travel at my clutch pedal to shift properly if you search on "clutch installation". Use the quotation marks in the search block. As I said, I thought I had a problem with my clutch linkage components but it turned out my flywheel had 0.200 inches machined off the face. Regards.
  11. OK....So I had a similar problem with my '49 Dodge B1B. Clutch pedal had like 3 inches of free play before the throw out bearing contacted the clutch fingers then when the pedal was all the way to the floor seems the clutch wasn't fully released and had grinding shifts. After a bunch of checking all the linkage components , throw out bearing sleeves, clutch disc, etc.,etc. it was finally determined my fly wheel had the face machined. Instead of being a stock thickness of 1.300 inches, 0.200 inches had been machined off it ending up with it being 1.100 inches thick or there abouts. Remedy was to adjust the clutch fingers to accommodate. The guy that rebuilt my clutch made the adjustment so I don't know how many turns of the bolt is reguired. Don't know the standard thickness of a Fargo flywheel but it may be worth a check. Regards.
  12. Anybody started a 218 cu. in. engine with a hand crank? I'm building up a 218 for a B1B and was wondering if it is worth the effort to use a hand crank style crankshaft nut. The engine I'm replacing had to be scrapped out due to a cracked block. It had a hand crank nut but was seized to the crank shaft. In my working life I had the opportunity to hand crank a Wisconsin V4 engine, 154 cu. in. I think, but was not able to get it started. Anybody successfully started a 218 using a hand crank? Regards
  13. Did you ever come to a conclusion on the "white smoking and bad" problem?
  14. Coming in on this thread a little late. A few years back had my B1B at a shop for some bodywork but ended up replacing the whole cab as it was less expensive than repairing the four lower cab corners. In the process, the rolling chasis was set outside for a number of months without being covered. When the shop folks finally got the cab and bed installed they discovered the "rolling chasis" would not roll anymore. They suspected the engine was seized and started adding diesel fuel, etc. down the spark plug holes. Returned the non-rolling truck to me at my insistance. I separated the engine and transmission and found the engine was free but the transmission was seized. While the transmission was out I got the engine running and, like you reported, would start smoking white smoke after a few minutes of running at idle. The truck was sitting on a slight down hill grade in my yard so I drilled a 1/8 inch dia. hole at the front lower surface of the muffler and sure enough got about a quart of fluid (diesel fuel and whatever else they had put down the spark plug holes). Don't know how long it would take to burn off this much oil but she runs great now with no smoke. Filled the 1/8 in. hole with a sheet metal screw. Then, like you, went on to the brake system. I would recommend if there is any way you could salvage your current wheel cylinders do so. The cylinders being sold now must be coming from off shore (China, et al) and have quality problems resulting in leaks and fitment. Others on this forum have reported the same. The rear wheel cylinders for my truck I bought from Bernbaum are actually front wheel cylinders from cars and the inlet port is sized to fit a brake hose not a hard line as on the rear of a truck. There is an adapter fitting required to get these cylinders to take a hard line. When I was doing mine, Bernbaum didn't have the adaptors...he may now. I don't remember the part number but the manufacturer was Edelmann. Love your truck. Good luck and have fun with it. Regards
  15. So after doing some pondering on this after I completed the brake lines on my B1B, I remembered my daily driver from the mid '60s was a '50 Plymouth 4 door sedan. It had the two wheel cylinders on each front brake and the single cylinder on each of the rear brakes. So in this case the front wheel cylinders that poke through the backing plate would have a hose running to them to allow the wheels to pivot for steering. When we get over to the trucks with the two wheel cylinders on the rears maybe the various vendors are supplying the front "car" wheel cylinders (that take hose ends) in place of the rear "truck" cylinders that should take the hard line brake fittings. A question might be: did the trucks really use front "car" cylinders on the rear of the trucks with the adapter fittings or did the trucks have rear cylinders that were drilled and tapped for the hard line fittings.
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