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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

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532 profile views
  1. squirebill

    1954 Fargo Clutch Linkage

    allanp.....you can read my posts about not having enough travel at my clutch pedal to shift properly if you search on "clutch installation". Use the quotation marks in the search block. As I said, I thought I had a problem with my clutch linkage components but it turned out my flywheel had 0.200 inches machined off the face. Regards.
  2. squirebill

    1954 Fargo Clutch Linkage

    OK....So I had a similar problem with my '49 Dodge B1B. Clutch pedal had like 3 inches of free play before the throw out bearing contacted the clutch fingers then when the pedal was all the way to the floor seems the clutch wasn't fully released and had grinding shifts. After a bunch of checking all the linkage components , throw out bearing sleeves, clutch disc, etc.,etc. it was finally determined my fly wheel had the face machined. Instead of being a stock thickness of 1.300 inches, 0.200 inches had been machined off it ending up with it being 1.100 inches thick or there abouts. Remedy was to adjust the clutch fingers to accommodate. The guy that rebuilt my clutch made the adjustment so I don't know how many turns of the bolt is reguired. Don't know the standard thickness of a Fargo flywheel but it may be worth a check. Regards.
  3. squirebill

    Hand Crank a 218

    Anybody started a 218 cu. in. engine with a hand crank? I'm building up a 218 for a B1B and was wondering if it is worth the effort to use a hand crank style crankshaft nut. The engine I'm replacing had to be scrapped out due to a cracked block. It had a hand crank nut but was seized to the crank shaft. In my working life I had the opportunity to hand crank a Wisconsin V4 engine, 154 cu. in. I think, but was not able to get it started. Anybody successfully started a 218 using a hand crank? Regards
  4. squirebill

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Did you ever come to a conclusion on the "white smoking and bad" problem?
  5. squirebill

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Coming in on this thread a little late. A few years back had my B1B at a shop for some bodywork but ended up replacing the whole cab as it was less expensive than repairing the four lower cab corners. In the process, the rolling chasis was set outside for a number of months without being covered. When the shop folks finally got the cab and bed installed they discovered the "rolling chasis" would not roll anymore. They suspected the engine was seized and started adding diesel fuel, etc. down the spark plug holes. Returned the non-rolling truck to me at my insistance. I separated the engine and transmission and found the engine was free but the transmission was seized. While the transmission was out I got the engine running and, like you reported, would start smoking white smoke after a few minutes of running at idle. The truck was sitting on a slight down hill grade in my yard so I drilled a 1/8 inch dia. hole at the front lower surface of the muffler and sure enough got about a quart of fluid (diesel fuel and whatever else they had put down the spark plug holes). Don't know how long it would take to burn off this much oil but she runs great now with no smoke. Filled the 1/8 in. hole with a sheet metal screw. Then, like you, went on to the brake system. I would recommend if there is any way you could salvage your current wheel cylinders do so. The cylinders being sold now must be coming from off shore (China, et al) and have quality problems resulting in leaks and fitment. Others on this forum have reported the same. The rear wheel cylinders for my truck I bought from Bernbaum are actually front wheel cylinders from cars and the inlet port is sized to fit a brake hose not a hard line as on the rear of a truck. There is an adapter fitting required to get these cylinders to take a hard line. When I was doing mine, Bernbaum didn't have the adaptors...he may now. I don't remember the part number but the manufacturer was Edelmann. Love your truck. Good luck and have fun with it. Regards
  6. squirebill

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    So after doing some pondering on this after I completed the brake lines on my B1B, I remembered my daily driver from the mid '60s was a '50 Plymouth 4 door sedan. It had the two wheel cylinders on each front brake and the single cylinder on each of the rear brakes. So in this case the front wheel cylinders that poke through the backing plate would have a hose running to them to allow the wheels to pivot for steering. When we get over to the trucks with the two wheel cylinders on the rears maybe the various vendors are supplying the front "car" wheel cylinders (that take hose ends) in place of the rear "truck" cylinders that should take the hard line brake fittings. A question might be: did the trucks really use front "car" cylinders on the rear of the trucks with the adapter fittings or did the trucks have rear cylinders that were drilled and tapped for the hard line fittings.
  7. squirebill

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    OK, so I did brake lines on my '49 B1B a couple of years ago. The major bugaboo I remember is the rear cylinders I purchased from Bernbaum were tapped for hose ends and not hard tube fittings. Called Bernbaum to report this discrepancy and he advised he had always sent out these wheel cylinders for the rear of B1B trucks and couldn't understand why I was having a problem. We discussed using an adapter fitting to get from the female hose port to the hard line tubing nut port but he had no such adapter fitting. I searched it out and located the fitting at Summit Racing under there part EDD-265400. When I received them they were in a poly bag with "Edelmann 265400" stamped on it. This adapter fitting also required a copper crush washer between the adapter and the wheel cylinder. Also, I had to enlarge the hole in the backing plate to allow for the hex of the adapter fitting. Would recommend you check the port on your rear wheel cylinders and verify they are tapped to receive the hard line tube nut. If not you will probably need the adapter fittings stated above. Note, I was working on a B1B with Bernbaum cylinders. You are working on a B3B with your cylinders and what happened to me may not apply to you. Regards
  8. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    Hope you don't mind laying a couple more lashes on this dead horse......but could you please advise what are items "Z", "EE" and "DD" ?
  9. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    Once again, grounds and the heavier gage of wire for a 6 volt DC system comes around to bite somebody. But for my own education please advise where the two unmarked wires coming off terminal block E finally connect. Does one of them finally connect to the input of the dimmer switch? Regards.
  10. squirebill

    6 Volt Positive Ground

    I'm thinking if you have dash lights your grounds are good. If you by-passed the light switch and went with a hot wire directly to the head light hot leads and the bulb lit, the ground for the head light is good. This gets me back to the wiring diagram. I compared your diagram for the 47 WC against my diagram for a 49 B1B. Looks like they both have the 6 terminal light switch. My headlight wire comes off the terminal of your wire 28 at your headlight switch. My headlight wire goes from the headlight switch to the input terminal of my dimmer switch then out of the dimmer switch to the HI and LO of my headlights. Your wire 28 comes off the headlight switch, goes to item "L" (a connector?) and then becomes wire 13, goes to item "E" (a terminal block?). Off of item "E", wire 12 feeds a single bulb "V". Your wiring diagram is cut off and doesn't show me where the other two wires from item E are going. So the question becomes: do either of these two wires come back and feed the input of the dimmer switch, item V. You have to have a Hot wire coming off your headlight switch and feeding the input of the dimmer.
  11. squirebill

    Hyd hitch brake

    Had a little experience with these in my working life. We made specialized trailers for the US Air Force and other air forces around the world. Trailer weighed in at 19000 lbs. Only complaint I ever heard about these things ( we called them surge actuators) was they were a pain to bleed because you had to find a way to overcome the spring force to apply pressure to the system brakes so the wheel cylinders could be bled. Also, trying to back- up the trailer was sketchy because as you did you were first applying pressure to the brake system until the cylinder piston reached an internal relief slot that would bleed off the pressure suddenly. Now your tow/push vehicle that was throttled up and applying pressure to the trailer brake system was suddenly freed and the trailer would move rearward maybe a little faster than intended. This was maybe OK on a runway where there was plenty of room but in a confined area the four wheeled trailer was pushed backwards using man power. Regards.
  12. So I finally got my '49 B1B up and running and into the town 4th of July Parade. With 98 deg. temp was a little concerned with it over heating. Temp gage got to 180 deg. and held there for the full length of the parade, about 3 hours of running time. Anyhow, this is the first time the truck is on the road since 1975 even though at the speed of smell in the parade. The brake shoes are also circa 1975. I am looking for recommendations for quality brake shoes (made in USA if possible). Have read on this forum of replacement parts from overseas that lack quality and performance. Hoping to find quality replacement shoes that others on the forum are happy with. Best regards to all.
  13. squirebill

    ANSWERED New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    Did you ever get the broken studs out? You mention them being in the "head" but I'm guessing you mean the "block". Anyhow, I looked up the manifold studs in my P17,P18 Plymouth car Parts list. In their description in parenthesis they say "(heat treated cold drawn steel....)". They have two listed with the same code number as in your parts list but each one has its own part number. P/N 623 369 is 1 15/16 long, quantity is 4 and P/N 51 561 is 1 11/16 long, quantity is 7. Like in your Parts List no description or picture of where the different lengths are to be placed. Anyhow, knowing to heat treat steel you heat it up to a certain temperature and then quickly cool it (quench it) and also to soften it again you heat it up and let it completely cool slowly (anneal it); maybe if you heat the broken stud as hot as you can and then let it cool you may be able to anneal it so you can drill it out. Just a thought.
  14. squirebill

    1951 Meadowbrook Rebuild

    As I said, the puff of smoke during or after deceleration is what caught my eye and jogged my memory. Although clogged return galleys may contribute to oil burning and leakage, they may not be the only problem. Taking a look at them first may be worth the effort as a maintenance item (before you get into a ring job)to see if your oil consumption and puff of smoke goes away. In my brain, bad rings would result in oil burning all the time, not just during deceleration. A compression test with 5 psi delta between all cylinders seems good to me. Did you do a wet and dry compression test? Better/higher readings with the wet test would indicate you have ring leakage.
  15. squirebill

    1951 Meadowbrook Rebuild

    Your comment about a "soft cloud of smoke" on deceleration caught my eye. Back in the mid '70s I had a '65 283 Malibu. Classic sign of worn valve guide seals was a puff of smoke after deceleration and then accelerating again. In my case it showed up after coasting down a hill then accelerating to go up the next hill. Also the valve covers leaked at the rear of the engine. Just like your symptoms. Seems this was all because the oil return galleys in the heads were clogged with sludge or the like. I seem to remember they were about 1/4 inch diameter once I found them under the sludge. So the oil would be pumped and build up in the head with no return or slow return through the clogged galleys then would seep past the valve guide seals and into the combustion chamber. Also would leak past the valve cover gasket. So cleaning the return galleys was the remedy. While you were there it was recommended to also do the valve stem seals and valve cover gasket. I used a long brush, something like a rifle bore brush, on the galleys. Even heard of others opening up diameter of the galleys to like 3/8 ". I figured once mine were cleaned they were good to go. Anyhow, would make sure your oil return galleys are clear as a maintenance item now or during your overhaul and maybe the puffs of smoke and oil consumption will be reduced.

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