Brent B3B

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Brent B3B last won the day on November 21 2016

Brent B3B had the most liked content!

About Brent B3B

  • Rank
    Amateur Tailgater
  • Birthday December 15

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Beavercreek, Oregon
  • Interests
    hobby farming, fishing
  • My Project Cars
    51 B3B, my first vehicle (George)
    51 B3B
    52 B3HH (Rob)
    53 B4D

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  1. I would not even consider removing them BUT, they are SO tight, it is difficult turning them with an open ended wrench and the "shoulders" are starting to round on one. I could use the boxed end to turn them, but it isn't very convenient and hard to do with the motor running
  2. that is awesome Bob! probably one of my favorite type of photo's I like to see on the forum is of the previous owners and our members. congrats on the award, you deserve it!
  3. are the tappet adjusting nuts removable on the 23" and 25" I might have mentioned they are EXTREMLY tight, and I was thinking about removing the nuts and try and clean them up. but I don't want to bugger them up further or not be able to reassemble them
  4. thanks, It was difficult with the motor in the truck, the wheel hub in my chest, maneuvering around the shock and trying not to slip and hit the tappets so I cheated
  5. The book says to remove the tappet assemblies before removing the valve guides but, I was able to remove the guides with the motor in the truck and the tappet assemblies in place
  6. i agree (because i have been told that before) but for the life of me can't wrap my brain around why. as it sits, the half the guides were put in upside down and it ran. One intake has noticeable "side to side" slop. i thought if i installed by the depth recommended in the book it would be all good...... i must be thrown off by the term "guide" frustrating! guess i'll look into yanking it and having it redone. my $300. fix just turned into 3K Thanks anyway guys for the help
  7. BUMP!!! does this count?
  8. Will do! I saw that in the truck shop manual. but, where I picked up that gray NOS spring his "Plymouth" book said they could be installed either way......
  9. Thanks PA! the orientation explanation makes sense, (wish the book spelled it out like that) I can see WHY they installed them all the same way, just wasn't sure if it was a big deal. you didn't mislead me. just want to make sure I have the correct part for my application.
  10. second subject, guides, same truck anyone know why the guides need to be "flipped" per intake or exhaust valve like the manual says? working on my truck I noticed there is a tapered end and the counter bore end and someone installed all of them with the taper down (counter bore up) guess on the bright side at least half are pointed the right direction
  11. working on my B4d (230) I bought new valves, had the old springs tested @ 95lbs and decided/ advised to buy another new one. I found a guy that had a NOS "gray" one to compare the LB to my old set, it tested 85lbs! so I bought a brand new set (USA made) they test 105lbs @ 1-3/8" compressed (book calls for 107- 115lbs) so, the question is, are the springs for the cars, the same as the trucks? reason I ask is in the shop manual of the place where I bought the "NOS" gray/ silver one it mentions different colors as where my truck shop manual does not. AND the car manual specifies 40lbs- 45lbs at 1-3/4" where the truck manual is 105-115 at 1-3/8" as a side note, with the .3000 shims will bump my old springs up to 100lbs
  12. just sent one, no problems here
  13. had fun with my 2-1/2 year old Granddaughter this past Saturday also......
  14. ok, I cleaned the springs, keepers ect. in "Berrymans" (photo before) I had the cylinder head shop check the spring tension giving him the specs the book calls out at 107-115lbs @1-3/8" and he said mine are100 lbs each. so I went for a second opinion....... the second shop said between 80- 85lbs and gave me some "shims" to add at the block where the valve seats. hard to believe that little thin shim would make the difference......... I am debating adding the shims or just order new springs and hope they are the 107-115lbs.... (open to suggestions) picked up some new valves and asked why the groves on all the old intakes nobody knows but there are theories
  15. just updating this thread. I have worked this past winter on the brakes, got it stopping, threw the headliner back in and drove the truck to the top of my road a couple times in preparation to drive it onto a trailer and haul it to CA for the BBQ. drove fine onto the trailer to load it (except for it being ALL OVER THE ROAD) towed fine..... but then gave me fits driving it off the trailer and parking it for the show. had a bunch of help trying to figure out the issue/s (many thanks again, guys) I changed the batter cables at the recommendation of Merle. I went to a #00 - I am a fan! this weekend I pulled the head again to replace the valves and test the springs..... I took the springs down to a local "cylinder head shop" and they asked me what the "install height was" (caught me off guard) I showed them the book that said 107 to 115 ft lbs at 1- 3/8" am I missing something or are they just not use to a flathead?