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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. 1946 P15 3-speed # 853880-29 teardown pics

    One thing to keep an eye on is the clearance when you stick the 2nd gear back on. It rides against a step the main shaft. Even with a new snap ring on mine, and a new 2nd gear, it was beyond the specification. That step face wears. I had to take the new 2nd gear to an industrial hard chrome shop and have them add a few thousands to the rear face of that gear to make up for the wear. It has run great for over 10 years now and I do drive this car a few days every week here in San Francisco city traffic. Also, pop out the little plugs in the case and clean out the little slider shaft, about a 1/2 inch long, that goes between the shifting rods. It is missed by a lot of people, even some so-called professionals who rebuild these things. James.
  2. Starter Field Coils

    I am rebuilding a couple of starters. Remanufacturing may be a better term as I am making one with all new parts. One thing I have run across is that there are two different field coil arrangement's. One with two larger coils and one with four smaller ones. In theory I am told, the 4 coils generate more torque than the two larger coils. Anyone here an electrical engineer, as opposed to an electronics engineer :-), and can shed some light on this issue? Since we all shave our cylinder heads, more torque is not a bad idea on a starter rebuild if one can get it. The two coil field coils are actually still available.
  3. Re-Engineering a Flathead Six

    Re-engineering a Flathead Six. So, after talking with Flaming River and Uni-Steer and FatMan... It turns out that nobody makes a power rack and pinion steering that is engineered to work with a car over 4000 pounds. All their people advise against it. Since my '47 Desoto Suburban is much more than that...I cannot do a V8 conversion unless I want to rip out the entire front clip to get a V8 in with power steering. Yes it can be done with a center pull rack, but not be safe. So, back to the drawing board. I need more power. I had a talk with a guy who has built a lot of motors. We discussed a very far out idea. I thought I would bring it up here and see what the collective wisdom had to say. A turbo charged computerized fuel injected flathead six. To overcome the issue of Siamesed Ports on the intake and the resultant problem with injector placement, what about swapping the intake with the exhaust ports? With the turbo, the flow should work with larger intake and smaller exhaust. With the ports swapped, the problem of the injectors is overcome. Making a CAM is no big deal nor making the intake and exhaust runners. There may be a scavenging issue with smaller exhaust and the peak torque would move up the RPM range. But with a torque converter with a modern automatic, that may be a wash low-end power wise. Anyone have any thoughts to this concept? Best, James
  4. Hi all, As a rule, I do not use product supplier names on forums. But in this case I am as it is a safety issue. A few years back I had an issue with my diamondback tires. The splice where they vulcanized the white rubber to started to show a crack line. Diamondback was not too helpful, the whole time accusing me not checking the tire pressure or hitting it hard on a curb while parking. It was like they were reading a script! How the left rear would be hit...how many times does one parallel park on one way streets on the left side, even here in San Francisco. In any event, although I have spent almost $5K in tires with them in the last 7 years, I let it drop as it is just cosmetic and you really cannot see it unless you are right up close. About 6 months ago the car developed a "thump, thump,thump". It had all the earmarks of a bearing or universal joint going bad. Perhaps even a spider gear in the rear end. It has gotten worse as time goes on. Several professional mechanics in their 60's to 80's who all are long time classic car men could not fine it. I tried for months without any luck. We just could not hear exactly where is was coming from. Today we had the car on the rack at a gas station - shop (full service gas, old time shop, vintage 1930's gas station) that does my oil and full under car lubrication. While we had it up in the air we went over the car real good. We could not fine a thing. When one of the guys spun the drivers side front tire. In the daylight you could see a severe high/low spot. One the passenger side, we spun that tire and it had one about half as bad. That has to be it. These tires are seven years old and have about 25K miles on them, perhaps a little more. Now it is possible that the problem is due to under inflating the tires. When I purchased them, I called Yokohama and asked about the 60 PSI pressure. Yokohama told me that I could go down to 40 PSI as my car come in at a little under 5000 pounds. A few years back the outer edges of the tires had that look like they had some under-inflation wear so I increased the pressure to 50 PSI. These tires are rated at over 2000 pounds each or 8000 pounds total. I also run them on the freeway and at times have gone a steady 70 MPH and on occasions up to 75. The tires in the Yokohama catalog show the maximum speed as 65 MPH. (Which I did not find out until well after I purchased them.) So, the question is: Did I push the tires on pressure (too low) and Yokohama gave me bad advice that I could run 40 PSI? Is the freeway running up to sustained 70 MPH the problem? Is the once in a while 75 MPH the problem? Or, is there a problem with these tires in their construction? The rear tires show no problem. I know that a LOT of people have recommended these tires for the 1930's and 1940's cars. I did when I got them years ago. Heck, I like them very much as they are the same diameter, about 29 inches, and the same contact patch, at 4.5 inches, as the original bias ply tires. The contact patch at 4.5 makes steering way better. Plus the big white walls look great. Now I have to decide what tires to get. As this is the car I drive all the time, no new cars for me, I need tires that not only look correct, but function. Since I suspect that one or both of these tires could come apart in the future if I keep running them, the flat spot - Bulge is good size and producing a wheel trump that is very noticeable, I wanted to write up what is going on for others to be aware of. Best, James
  5. Yokohama (Diamondback) RY215 {700R-15} Safety Issue

    I am glad to see you like the Coker tire. I have a friend with a '58 Cad Eldorado Biarritz Convertible that had bad luck with Coker tires. Are your tires that you purchased the "Coker American Classic Bias Look Radial" line? The American Classic Bias Look Radial is the only whitewall tire (760R15) I could find that is close in the size and load to the RY-215. I will order them later today. Best, James
  6. Yokohama (Diamondback) RY215 {700R-15} Safety Issue

    I have 6 inch rims. These tires had driven nice and been fine except for the new flat spot issue. I was planning on changing them out next year at eight year point. These are DOT approved tires. see https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yok-21501 I know at least a dozen people who use these tires. I have them on the '49 and I know someone who has them on a 1946 Chrysler T&C and a 1937 Cad. A lot of the Packard guys use them as well. In my case they get more "real world" use on the 1947 then most old cars. All of the dozen or so people I know who are using them don't put much mileage on them. I drive the car several times a week in the middle of San Francisco as well as 160 mile round trips to my place out of town at 65-70 MPH a couple of times a month. I have warned my friends to up the pressure to at least 55 PSI even if the ride is a little stuff and see what happens. In my case, I have to decide if I want to order another set from Diamondback or try Coker's new radial that looks like an old bias tire... James.
  7. Yokohama (Diamondback) RY215 {700R-15} Safety Issue

    See https://www.yokohamatruck.com/public/img/tires/31/bulletin_en.pdf James
  8. Wheel Stud Conversion

    One thing people should be aware of... On my Desoto's if you use rear studs it is hard, to impossible, to change a tire on the road. You have to jack up the body so high, to let the wheel hang, that if you have a flat on the road changing the tire is not an easy thing to do. The rear fender is just too low. James
  9. I have quickly became a Stromberg fan

    W.P. Chrysler was a cheep SOB. He was very focused on price and efficiency. In those days, the companies (Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth)were very distinct entities and had individual supplier histories. Dodge had a very long relationship with strongberg. Chrysler with Carter. I suspect that it was both price and relationship that drove a lot of decision making before 1950. In 1946-1947 however there was a disruption of Carter carbs due to a strike. Chrysler shipped cars without carbs. Then they shipped a kit to use a Strongberg in place of a Carter. I have the technical bulletin on this in my files with the part numbers and service information. The Strongberg is a more expensive carburetor back in the day when new compared to the Cater. James
  10. 1950 Wayfarer Trans Fluid

    "The literature I have seen from Chrysler does not recommend ever changing the Fluid Drive oil, just topping it up annually." I doubt that Chrysler ever thought that their fluid would be in a coupling more than 20 years. I think the above is bad advise. To see why read my very old post.
  11. KingPin Saga DONE

    I would take the spindle, the pin, the upright to a machine shop. A good shop will hone, not ream, the bushings and upright in a line hone to fit the pin. You should feel zero movement when done, but be able to spin the king pin like a top. If properly honed to exacting tolerance the pins will go in perfect and when you put the tapered pin in the side of the upright, the king pin will rotate nice to accommodate it with hand pressure locking the tapered pin in place. My machinist did not have the exact size hone he needed for his sonnen honing machine. I found one off eBay with stones and he did it for free and I gave him the hone. If ever need another, he will do it for free. Using a good machine shop sunnen machine to hone, not ream the king pin, results in a very nice job. James.
  12. Seat belts

    In California front seat belts became the law in 1964. Front and Rear in 1968 because the feds required it. If the car has belts installed in it, you must wear them. If you don't have them, or take them out, of a pre-1964 car you don't need to have them. The child seat and belt laws are a gray area. All the child seat and child belt laws in CA are predicated, and under, the general seat belt laws here in California. Nobody has been able to get a directive from the State Attorney General's office to clarify the issue. Since all pre-1964 cars are not required to have belts, does that mean that kids don't need to be in a seat or belted? The safety of the issue is not in question, just the legality. I have asked and they refuse to answer. They only give legal responses to legislators and government agencies. If the State said all kids must me in a child seat, or belted, then no kid would every legally be able to ride in a classic car not so equipped. Even during a parade or a special event. James.
  13. How many miles on your flatheads?

    I use my 1947 Desoto LWB Suburban here in the middle of San Francisco every week. I also dive it a couple of times a month, about 160 mile round trip, to our place in a small town. That has a lot of 65-70 MPH running. I have over 50K miles on my rebuild which was done about 2005. I am noting some dropping of oil pressure. Just a little. I also have started to see in the last year some oil pulling by when going down Waldo Grade at 60 MPH and allowing the engine to compression brake down the hill in 1:1 gear. With the OD in and the RPM's lower not so much. I suspect that the guides are starting to wear and I am sucking oil under high vacuum - high RPM situations. When I had the engine open a couple of years back for the melted plug (see old posts), I did put in new rings and ground the valves. Although how good the hone was leaning over the engine bay is an open question. In about 20K more miles, I suspect that I will have to pull the block and rebuilt it. Given that this car is over 4000 pounds, only has a 251 six, see's San Francisco Hills, and long freeway runs on a constant basis, I think I am doing good. If you rebuilt a flathead WELL, as if you are doing a race engine, I see no reason why it will not go 50K to 60K without any issue. Mine has. James.
  14. Shock absorbers

    Bingster, nothing I am selling...just LOTS of used and NOS-NORS parts. I have been around, although not that active, on this site since 2003 or so. I big Desoto I drive on a weekly basis here in San Francisco. So, I stock my own parts to some extent. I noticed in the master parts books that the valve's on the shocks for the larger cars were different. I suspect some engineer did the math to match the shock to the spring rates. That is why, I may go look into custom shocks with adjustable valves. I am curious, has anyone every taken apart a stock shock like they talk about in the service manual? James
  15. Shock absorbers

    This week I have been moving parts around. I found the box that had the shocks I took off the 1947 Desoto Suburban when I first purchased it and the 1949 Desoto Convertible when I took it apart. The shocks are MOPAR with the CDPD stamp on them and factory part numbers. They are Monroe shocks. 1947 Desoto S-11 Suburban: Front 1121207, closed 8.75", open 12.875," Dia max 2.125" Rear 1121208, closed 12.5", open 20.5", Dia max 2.125" 1949 Desoto S-13 Convertible Front 1311851, closed 8.75", open 13", Dia Max 2.125" Rear 1311852, closed 12.5", open 20.5", Dia Max 2.125 Interestingly the Monroe cross reference on the 1947 Desoto shows a front part number of 5752. On Amazon or Jeg's they are about $22 each. At NAPA or O'Reilly they show up as from Rare Parts at $200! What a joke... I may have a custom set made for the big Desoto. The shock valves were different according to the master parts book for the heavy Suburban. Custom adjustable shocks may be better for this daily driver than another set of modern Monroe's. The 1947 Shocks are know to be original to the car. The 1949 I suspect may have been changed once. Best all, James
  16. 1949 Desoto Gear changing problems

    Unless you want endless problems with the M6 transmission, convert the car back to 6 volt positive ground. I have run my 1947 Desoto for 15 years here in San Francisco (proper not the burbs) and 6 volt works just fine. As long as it is maintained correctly. My 1949 Desoto is also 6 volt positive ground. Use a lithium 12 volt emergency starter battery with a radio, cell, or other in the car if need be. No need these days to convert unless you are changing the car over to a modern engine.
  17. gyromatic problem

    I wish that people would stop tossing around the recommendation that ISO-22 should be used in the fluid couplings without informing people of the issues. The fluid needs to be matched to the perceived state of the roller bearing in the coupling. Also, NOT ANY ISO-22 fluid will do. It MUST have anti-foaming agents in it. Most NAPA ISO tractor fluid does not. Read my old post in its entirety to understand the fluid that one should consider using in a fluid coupling. Best, James
  18. GM LTG Turbo 4

    Hi all, In my ongoing quest for engines for the 1947 Desoto suburban I ran across some time back the GM crate engine that is the LTG Turbo 4. It is direct injection and the like. The issue is that GM does not have a matching kit for it using an automatic. Just a stick. After some looking around again, I found a company that makes an adapter to use a GM auto with it. What I like about this is that the size of this engine is about the same as the flathead. I will be looking more into this. James http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/ltg-four-cylinder.html
  19. GM LTG Turbo 4

    To those of you new around here, I have been contributing for over 10 years...The Desoto has been my daily driver since 2003. It comes in at 4800 pounds empty. In a few years we will use this car to travel the USA. Loaded it is about 5500 pounds. I DO NOT WANT to change the steering or the front end. But, I need this thing to be much better for Sondra to drive as well as my left ankle. I have paid my dues with more flathead six miles than most. One I pull that out I could care less on who makes the replacement. My 1949 will have that flathead in it until hell freezes over in any case. Almost any V8 Conversion would require steering modifications. The steering box on the Suburban is about 30% larger then the other cars. A V8 would hit. I saw this engine at the car show a couple of years ago. It would fit the bill. But, no trans. Well, I just got a call from a dealer. In the 2017 GM performance catalog they have come out with a rear wheel transmission for this engine. The wiring is due out in six months for the computer to talk with the trans. The only issue is will it clear. They put the direct bolt on AC of the drivers side... This engine can be mounted at the front like a flathead. So, if the side were to clear, it may be a very good fit. I will keep moving forward investigating this. James
  20. P19 with dead cylinder

    Before you do that... Remove the one valve spring and retainer from the stuck valve. Use a torch to heat up valve guide, not the valve. Tap the valve if you can from the bottom or use a screwdriver or chisel as a wedge between the valve tip and the lifter. TAKE IT EASY THOUGH. If you can get the valve to move up a bit you may be able to free it. If you take the head off you can do the same thing and just tap on it with a rawhide hammer until it moves. If you are going to take the head off, I would just pull all of the valves and use a brush on the guides, polish the shafts on the valves and stick them back in. James.
  21. 49 to 50 M6 swap

    I have several of those in my spares. I think, I do not know, that you could swap the extension housings and it would work. BUT, I have not had both on my bench at the same time to know for sure...They may have used a different or longer shaft for the drum version. Of course, you could swap it and then have the driveshaft changed to fit the new output yoke and length... James
  22. Pertronix 6v super confusion

    Be advised there are TWO DIFFERNET wiring systems on the MOPAR Semi-Automatics. The 1946 to mid-1949 use a relay with the interrupter switch, governor, and the like. While the true 1949 and later use a circuit breaker and a big carbon resistor. Make sure, which it why calling the manufacturer would be in order, that their unit works with both of these electrical systems. If they do not understand the difference, then I would ship it back and stick with points. I am somewhat biased as I have run points in the big Desoto for the last 14 years all over San Francisco and Northern California and have never been stuck due to points or anything else for that matter. Shure, I have had issues where it ran like crap, but I got home and then just fixed it. If you take the time, like 6 to 9 months, and get a capacitor value that matches you ignition system the points last several years without replacement. James.
  23. 16 years car sits, brake fluid gone, no sign

    A couple of things to note. 1. You can adjust the shoes without the tool. It is a little cumbersome but can be done. You pull the cylinder ends of the shoes all the way in. With the heel all the way in slip the drum on. Then pull the drum off and turn the heel out a little, then slip the drum on. Do this repeatedly until the drum will not slip on. The back off the heal until it will. At this point use some chalk and draw lines across the shoes in 1 inch spacing. Then adjust the toe of the shoe out. Spin the drum and see where it removes the chalk. That will tell you if you need to move the shoe up or down. Like I said, it is a long and laborious process. But it works well. Of course in the time it takes to so 4 shoes, you can make the tool that show elsewhere in the forum. I have an Ammco Gauge. 2. I use Russell Racing DOT approved steel braded brake flex lines in place of the rubber hoses. Why? I had one from NAPA that went bad after 6 months. You have to get inverted flare to AN adaptors to use the Russell lines. Since these cars are all single master cylinder cars, I want hoses that will not fail. As folks can tell you , I drive my Desoto more than most in tough San Francisco and SF Bay Area Traffic. 3. INSPECT all new wheel or master cylinders. I had a new manufacture wheel cylinder with a seal that had a defect in it fail after about a year on a hill here in San Francisco. NEVER trust the Q&A these days from overseas. I would buy a set of master and wheel cylinders and send them all out to be sleeved with stainless (Joe is retired or I would use brass) and assemble the mater cylinder and wheel cylinder myself paying good attention to the condition of the new seals. 4. There is a brake line you can get from these folks. http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/ It works well. I used it on my 1949 Desoto restoration. Just be careful when making double flares with the newer materials. You need to feed the tube a little over the normal mandrel height because it compresses more then the old steel lines. If you work the tool too much you get a flare with the tulip too compressed. The little extra meat will compress when you hook it up. In any event, my 2 cents worth. James
  24. Hi All, I just received a core radiator for my 1949. Old, but the frame and tanks are in good shape. The honeycomb is shot. I noticed however that the mounting brackets, soldered or welded to the frame sides are slightly different. Can owners of 1949 (send series) and 1950 Chrysler & Desoto's do me a favor? I would like to see a photo the upper side mounting bracket on the radiator. On one of mine the bracket itself (not the frame side) is a straight part. On the other after the top bolt hole it curves toward the rear. Odd, very odd. So, some comparison photos would help me figure out it one of mine is wrong, or if they just used different ones at different times in production. They are both otherwise correct. Details and details... Thanks, James.
  25. Production number information

    I have researched this issue with respect to my 1949 Desoto Convertible. The problem with all the books on production of 1949 Models is that MOPAR did not break down the car serial numbers between held over 1949 models and the "true" 1949" models. That said, I have some documents from Chrysler in the form of the Service Bulletins, that shows the serial number split on mechanical issues. Over the next couple of week if I get some time to dig through them all, I will see if I can come up with a serial number where the change is reported. It is 6 inches of documents, so send me a note in a couple of weeks to remind me if I don't get to it. I have a memory that the change come about in late February or early March. Also, it was different for the different divisions and also for different models. As others have said the cars are very different so it is easy to see which body style it is. However, it is very hard to tell how many of each style was sold in 1949. James.